Carbide hole saw for sheet metal?

[Pete.S.]

I'm looking at getting hole cutter for making holes in control panels and other sheet metal stuff.
http://www.idealindustries.ca/produc...l_bits/tko.php

Are these the same as annular cutters used on a mag drill?

In the past I used a hole punch, Greenlee or similar, but carbide hole cutter looks like a better option.

[henry42]

Use a punch

[gtermini]

Those listed ROCK! They are not as grabby as you'd think, and always make a clean hole. There are some all HSS ones that I get that also work well. McMaster has a good selection of both flavors. Between those and rotobroches, I'm trying to live out my life with out ever using a holesaw again.

[Pete.S.]

Those listed ROCK! They are not as grabby as you'd think, and always make a clean hole. There are some all HSS ones that I get that also work well. McMaster has a good selection of both flavors. Between those and rotobroches, I'm trying to live out my life with out ever using a holesaw again.

Yeah, holesaws suck. Thanks for the feedback!

I actually ordered some Starrett hole cutters as they were easier for me to source than Ideal.

[xryan]

Hmm. I'll need to try some if I can start working again. I do have a plastic box full of pain and anguish, AKA the hole saw box.

[jpump5]

Holesaws aren’t really fun to use in steel
( like in electrical panels) but they’re
probably faster than drill bit and knockout
punch. Hougen makes those hole cutters for
thin steel, but they are different than their
annular cutters.

[Willie B]

I use them daily. They are expensive, and would last a long while on a drill press. In the field a drill press is not an option. I probably average 15 to 20 holes before teeth fall out.

Still, when I factor the time they save I use them.

[123weld]

well i hope it works out for you, but carbide against sheetmetal as seen just dont sound good to me. that video reminds me of something youd see on tv, where there demonstrating a all in one easy to use fixit tool to a housewife

[Lis2323]

I’d use the Hougen sheet metal cutters. You won’t regret it.




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[arcflash]

Lis2323 I agree those cut real nice.

[Mac's Crew]

I work in a tooling shop... that being said I HATE a holesaw. It doesn't matter what size, or makeup of the offending piece is. For thicker material we choose coarse saws and knock out all but about 3 teeth. for thinner material we just ramp up the speed. Those are drill press applications. If the hole is sub 2 inch I just step drill it with core drills.


Sheet metal knock out bits work great. I have spent my career looking to avoid 2 things angle motors (you can't drill a straight hole with them) and hole saws (they suck) just my $.02. I would say if the metal is thinner than the step on the knock out bit use that.

[Willie B]

I believe a Mag drill would power these cutters in a manner that'd last a long time. I picture there always being something in the way on electrical panels so a mag drill wouldn't fit. Hand held, they tend to grab, and tear teeth loose.

[albrightree]

I have several sets of these. some for sheet metal, others for thicker metal. Most of the factory that I work on is stainless, and these work the best . One brand is "razor quick" from chromate industries(tool distributor). Others I have purchased from McMaster carr. The smaller sizes from 3/8" up to 1-1/8" have lasted years. I've used the 7/8" and 1-1/8" sizes the most for installing switches and indicator lights on NEMA4X panels. The larger sizes don't seem to last as long, harder to keep from tipping to the side and grabbing . Still worth using though, even if I only get a couple dozen holes with it. The price of them has come down over the years, making it less expensive. Try using some in the smaller sizes , I think you'll like them.

[BD1]

Sheetmetal , a knockout set really works well. You can get assorted sizes in manual or a hydraulic punch set. This is for reference. Their are cheaper ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-7235...%2C1506&sr=8-9

[rhunt]

Here's a tip for you guys who use hole saws and hand held drill motors; put a large washer between the saw and the piece you are putting a hole in, as the drill busts through the material the saw will plunge down and hit the washer and the washer will spin with the saw teeth preventing the pilot drill from snapping. Remove the washer and make your hole. Also, if you do not have cutting oil with you, take some duck seal and pack it inside the hole saw, this will put lubricant on the saw teeth and save wearing them out prematurely. Just an old man with many tricks of the trade! Bob

[BD1]

Here's a tip for you guys who use hole saws and hand held drill motors; put a large washer between the saw and the piece you are putting a hole in, as the drill busts through the material the saw will plunge down and hit the washer and the washer will spin with the saw teeth preventing the pilot drill from snapping. Remove the washer and make your hole. Also, if you do not have cutting oil with you, take some duck seal and pack it inside the hole saw, this will put lubricant on the saw teeth and save wearing them out prematurely. Just an old man with many tricks of the trade! Bob

Another old BOB here, in holesawing 3/16 and thicker I always drill a 1/4'' pilot hole. This allows you to feed the hole saw slowly without the pilot bit plunging through and hole saw grabbing. That can cause broken teeth.

[Lis2323]

Another old BOB here, in holesawing 3/16 and thicker I always drill a 1/4'' pilot hole. This allows you to feed the hole saw slowly without the pilot bit plunging through and hole saw grabbing. That can cause broken teeth.

HEY I’m old too but NOT a BOB and I do the same!


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[Bonzoo]

Hypertherm 30 air and a set of molds from 911 motorsports or make your own. Over 500,000 holes guaranteed.
Then you might need to change an electrode or 2. MAYBE !
Yeah. Well check the price on those fancy hole saws and think about a 5 or 10 year timeframe of buying that garbage one after another. $$$$$$$.I'll cut 20 holes with a plasma against one with that starrett

[Lis2323]

Hypertherm 30 air and a set of molds from 911 motorsports or make your own. Over 500,000 holes guaranteed.
Then you might need to change an electrode or 2. MAYBE !
Yeah. Well check the price on those fancy hole saws and think about a 5 or 10 year timeframe of buying that garbage one after another. $$$$$$$.I'll cut 20 holes with a plasma against one with that starrett

Yup they work well too



but don’t forget the OP was looking for making holes in control panels so this might not be the best option.


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[arcflash]

I can put a lukewarm body on the drill press with a hole cutter. Not so much with a plasma cutter.

[djd775]

Another old BOB here, in holesawing 3/16 and thicker I always drill a 1/4'' pilot hole. This allows you to feed the hole saw slowly without the pilot bit plunging through and hole saw grabbing. That can cause broken teeth.

I also drill a 1/4” pilot hole, but I replaced the pilot bit in my holesaws with a 1/4” solid pin (I used a drill blank). Prevents the saw walking in thin material and it’s stronger than a drill bit.


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[Willie B]

Another old BOB here, in holesawing 3/16 and thicker I always drill a 1/4'' pilot hole. This allows you to feed the hole saw slowly without the pilot bit plunging through and hole saw grabbing. That can cause broken teeth.

Mine have a two stage pilot. The tip is maybe 3/32", next stage is 1/4". When teeth get damaged is when one side of the big hole breaks through before the rest.