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Thread: Craters in tacks (stick)

  1. #26
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    Re: Craters in tacks (stick)

    Quote Originally Posted by farmersammm View Post
    And I'm not from New Zealand (although I'd sure like to see it one day), I'm from Oklahoma. I'm pretty sure Oklahoma isn't high on anybody's bucket list
    Sam, I know You're not from New Zealand. My question was for JoshNZ.
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  2. #27
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    Re: Craters in tacks (stick)

    Quote Originally Posted by JoshNZ View Post
    They're 6013's yeah, smootharc #12s... Or 13s I can't remember, whichever one penetrates through oxides better. I have 3.2mm rods too I sometimes do a stringer at the bottom of a valley but I find capping it with the 4mm at ~130A looks good. Can pull flux off with finger nail and it seems to get decent penetration, I've had to cut a few of them apart I should know!
    I must say that your welds don't look to shabby. If those 4mm rods work for you then keep at it. It wouldn't be my first choice though. Most rods weld better in the upper part of its amperage range. With 115-130A you're right at the low end for those rods. I would think you'll be better of using the 3.2mm rods on about the same amperage which will put them in the upper part of their range.
    You haven't answered my question if you're running DCEP or DCEN.

    Regarding the restarts with 7018. I always have a file next to me. Just scrape the tip of the rod on the file to get rid of the slag and away you go.
    I do have 6013 and 6012, but i do most of my welding with 7018 and 7016 on DCEP. DCEP gives more penetration so you need smaller rods on the thin stuff to avoid blowing holes. I store my electrodes in self made sealed pvc containers in an old fridge with a tray of dessicant in the fridge as well. Humidity inside is at a steady 40-45%. For non code hobby welding you don't need a rod oven and if mine do eventually pick up to much moisture and start behaving bad i can always dry them a bit in an old electrical oven i have in the garage just for that purpose.

    Regarding the filling of endcraters. At the end of the weld i double back to the crater with a short arc, fill the crater and then snap out.
    That works for me. Bouncing up and down like Opus says gives more chance of slag inclusions in my opinion. Longarcing doesn't cool the puddle. When you longarc the amperage drops, but the arc voltage rises which heats up the puddle even more. Try welding an open root on a V groove with to long an arc, it will just chew up the land because the base metal gets to hot and the keyhole will get way to big and out of hand. Short arc is the key.

    One last tip. Make a habbit of always wrapping the corners on tubing. Some of your corners look ok, but with some you stopped to soon and left a hole which will let moisture in.
    Last edited by E T; 07-24-2019 at 03:56 PM.
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  3. #28
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    Re: Craters in tacks (stick)

    Quote Originally Posted by JoshNZ View Post
    Would almost be nice to put a button on the stinger and use it in Tig mode to make use of the taper off function

    Except in TIG mode you may lose features like Hot Start and Arc Force that are available in stick mode (in some welders). Best to get a slider amperage control.
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  4. #29
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    Re: Craters in tacks (stick)

    Quote Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
    Except in TIG mode you may lose features like Hot Start and Arc Force that are available in stick mode (in some welders). Best to get a slider amperage control.
    And in TIG mode on most stick/TIG inverters arc voltage drops about 10V. You don't want that with stick.
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  5. #30
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    Re: Craters in tacks (stick)

    Quote Originally Posted by E T View Post
    And in TIG mode on most stick/TIG inverters arc voltage drops about 10V. You don't want that with stick.
    Why ? I could care less. I strike once or twice and turn a knob.I don't look at knobs or digital/lED nonsense. I just weld.

  6. #31
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    Re: Craters in tacks (stick)

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonzoo View Post
    Why ? I could care less. I strike once or twice and turn a knob.I don't look at knobs or digital/lED nonsense. I just weld.
    You missed his whole point.
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  7. #32
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    Re: Craters in tacks (stick)

    DCEP sorry! I've switch back to the 3.2s.. seems my preference for bead width has changed, they do run better you're right. Think the slag comes off the 4.0s easier though

  8. #33
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    Re: Craters in tacks (stick)

    Quote Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
    You missed his whole point.
    And used improper grammar while doing so....ack
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