Oh, Why Not

[M J D]

Mighty mag looks useful....

Might order one myself...

https://www.westhoffinc.com/measurin...on/mighty-mag/

I bought a magnetic backed indicator off of Amazon that is has better holding and is easier to set up. I didn't care much for the mighty mag, altho it does a good job of holding up a paper on a metal surface.

[MinnesotaDave]

A lot of farm machinery uses bolts that thread into the hubs rather than studs.

Jon

I’ve had lots of those and HATE them with a passion.

+2 ...hate them on trailers too.

[farmersammm]

Removed the wheel. Two bolts were so damaged that they couldn't be removed with an impact.



No damage to hub or wheel. Luv that hot wrench





I fooled around for about 20 minutes trying to dismount the tire, and made the correct decision to run it to the tire place, and let them do it.

So...………...it's time to see what we're dealing with...….



The hub is damaged on the pilot boss. Years of the wheel eating into it. Bear in mind...these are not truly a piloted wheel setup...the boss only helps align the wheel while you're cursing the lug bolts

At this point, I'm at a fork in the road. Build up the boss, and make it a true load carrying boss, or stick with the original design. Start welding on the hub, and it's gonna change the dimensions due to the heat input. Wouldn't be a biggy if it weren't for the fact that the hub also has bores that hold precision bearings. So...….probably gonna leave it alone, and stick with the original design.

BTW...………..THAT AINT MUD

[farmersammm]

If I sleep on it,, and wake up in the middle of the night with a VISION (), it is possible to build this thing out, and turn it. There's a handy raised area on the back of the hub, probably used when the original machining was done. A four jaw ought to be able to grab that, if you don't go crazy, and take heavy cuts.



Again, further evidence that these were never designed to be a load bearing system.

Although it's eaten up, and resembles a possible load bearing piloted wheel...…………………

The opposite side shows it's simply a stamped wheel that wasn't machined to fit a boss.



Because I'm adding a solid piece of plate in the worn/broken area, it is possible to make it into a piloted wheel, but not sure if it's gonna be the way I go yet.

[12V71]

Food for thought... Quite a few John Deere and Farmall tractors of that vintage had optional 8 lug hubs that used a heavier wheel. You might check with some tractor wrecking yards and see if that was an option for yours.

[M J D]

I would bet if you measured 6 different wheels with the same bolt pattern, you would have 6 different dimensions. Those wheels probably have a very loose tolerance anyways. Best bet would be to get the largest possible nut or stud to improve clamping force and call it a day. By adding a thicker wheel flange you could get a deeper countersink which would also help with more contact area for the bolt or lug nut to engage. Most racing wheels are made that way along with an oversized lug nut to prevent tear out or cracking.

[Woznme]

Here's somethin' I, and possibly you, need to get worried about...…….

They got the "beyond beef" or some sorta horse**** like that now at Carl's. Stinkin' veggie burger.

I asked the lady if they're selling a lot of them. She said they're selling pretty well. This is gonna spell the end of the beef industry. Never mind that the morons are eating concentrated protein, which contains concentrated Roundup, and Dicambra…………...they think it's healthy because it's plant based. F'n veggie burgers contain more fat than real beef.

Never seen beef dressed to look and taste like vegies. Always the other way round.
I always told my missus I am eating vegies, the bullock ate the grass and now I'm eatin the bullock. Efficient.

[farmersammm]

I would bet if you measured 6 different wheels with the same bolt pattern, you would have 6 different dimensions. Those wheels probably have a very loose tolerance anyways. Best bet would be to get the largest possible nut or stud to improve clamping force and call it a day. By adding a thicker wheel flange you could get a deeper countersink which would also help with more contact area for the bolt or lug nut to engage. Most racing wheels are made that way along with an oversized lug nut to prevent tear out or cracking.

Well......didn't wake up with a VISION.....just an old guy's bladder

I agree, you can't reinvent the wheel. Studs are the only viable alternative.

I'm already locked in on a minimum 3/8 thickness for the new wheel flange. Seats for the lug nuts will be separate from the flange itself (go with me on this, it'll become apparent later) The real consideration is not to overextend the bolt length underneath the nuts...…..too long, and it's gonna flex.

Largest diameter stud I might squeeze in, would be 9/16. The knurl diameter increases with stud diameter......then you start weakening the stupid hub. Off hand, I think the knurl diameter on a 9/16 starts somewhere around .625 . Although, I might find that the original threaded holes in the hub have wallowed out to an extent where .625 isn't a real stretch.

Gotta get up and running tomorrow...…….we're feeding with the Oliver, and it SUCKS. No FEL

I just hope the doods at the tire place can remount the tire without ruining the innertube.

When I was waiting for them to do my tire, they were working on some high flotation tires (possibly baler tires?....looked to be Deere wheels).

They were having the same problems I do with these tires. Too wide for the Cheetah to push enough air into them to seat the bead.

SO WHAT DO THESE MORONS DO????????????????? They emptied almost a full can of starting fluid in the tire, and lit it with a match It didn't explode...…….IT JUST BURNED So, these guys are standing there looking at the tire starting to catch fire They're beatin' on it with shop rags, until moron #2 figured out that maybe he could blast the fire out with an air gun.

So, they get the fire out. THE BEAD IS STILL SMOULDERING...……….IT'S MELTED!

(I'd suggested to the Terrible Trio that you gotta use a heavy ratchet strap to squeeze the tire...…..they didn't seem to want anybody tellin' them their business) (This was before the fire event)

Now, they're packing the rim with about 10 gallons of tire mounting compound, trying to get it to seal...……...They were still at it when I left. Scratch one VERY EXPENSIVE tire

Life is an adventure

Oh yah...……….I got a propane bottle filled while there. They sell propane too.

I don't think anything about it...………...until I get over to K'kins office, and look in the back of the pickup. I THOUGHT THEY'D SWITCHED PROPANE BOTTLES ON ME. It had a sticker on it with the propane suppliers name on it. WTF???????????????????

I head back over to the tire store.

Lady tells me it's a safety requirement (??????) She says that the bottle has to be labeled "propane", and if it isn't, they're required to put a label on it (?????) So, now I'm runnin' around advertising the company name The lady pats me on the head, and sends me on my way.

I toddle BACK over to K'kins office, and do a mini rant about it. Now SHE pats me on the head, and sends me on my way (Geeeeesh!)

[Zimm]

I had a neighbor who mounted his own tractor trailer tires using starting fluid. Been doing it for years by the time I met him, and he never blew up a tire or himself that I'm aware of. Wouldn't have the guts to try it myself.

[hermetic]

Looks like the wheel has been overtightened, the metal behind the wheel bolts is not supposed to be in contact with the hub, the four or more raised pads on the rear of the wheel pressing are supposed to hold the wheel away from the hub, and the metal circle immediately behind the bolts acts as a compressed spring to keep the bolts from coming loose. If it is in contact with the hubs the bolts and the matal behind them will work in the holes, and the wheel will crack, I have seen wheels that have been overtightened completely detach from the hub, leaving a neat "washer" of wheel metal behind each stud! That wheel is scrap!

[snowbird]

Looks like the wheel has been overtightened, the metal behind the wheel bolts is not supposed to be in contact with the hub, the four or more raised pads on the rear of the wheel pressing are supposed to hold the wheel away from the hub, and the metal circle immediately behind the bolts acts as a compressed spring to keep the bolts from coming loose. If it is in contact with the hubs the bolts and the matal behind them will work in the holes, and the wheel will crack, I have seen wheels that have been overtightened completely detach from the hub, leaving a neat "washer" of wheel metal behind each stud! That wheel is scrap!

theorycally right for the overtightening, most older machines overloaded in the field will be like that. He's going with what he has and the job gets done.

[jeffrey.penfield]

I had a neighbor who mounted his own tractor trailer tires using starting fluid. Been doing it for years by the time I met him, and he never blew up a tire or himself that I'm aware of. Wouldn't have the guts to try it myself.

I was able mount my own tractor tire with a strap and soap after sanding the rim when it did not seat at the tire dealer. They tried to leave it in the sun. They usually do car tires. If I can mount a difficult tire myself, I have to agree with Sam and say that anyone mounts a tire by igniting it is either a moron and/or just lazy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Munkul]

Mounting tyres with starting fluid works really well... provided that you understand air-to-fuel ratios! After a while you get a good idea of how much to squirt in there to make an explosive atmosphere.

[farmersammm]

Everything is on hold due to the weather, and unfortunate circumstances.

I spent the good part of the day trying to dig a cow out of the mud. She slipped, and fell, in a boggy area mostly comprised of manure, hay, and clay.

K'kins came home from work early to help,, but promptly lost her boots in the much. Had to drag her out.

Probably spend the day today digging, if the cow's still alive. We're down in the 30's with pretty healthy wind chills. We fed her, and tarped her, last nite, but it's just a matter of time...….hyperthermia is probably gonna kill her.

Can't get underneath her to run a chain around her. She's too big to dig underneath in the muck. Give it another whirl today I guess.

[Sandy]

That pressure from the muck pushing on the legs for so long could cause some real issues even when you do get her out.

[Kelvin]

Probably spend the day today digging, if the cow's still alive. We're down in the 30's with pretty healthy wind chills. We fed her, and tarped her, last nite, but it's just a matter of time...….hyperthermia is probably gonna kill her.

Can't get underneath her to run a chain around her. She's too big to dig underneath in the muck. Give it another whirl today I guess.

That's got to be tough to see. Saw some show where a cow moose got stuck in some muck. Game wardens dragged her out with a machine (I couldn't believe this would not pull the animal apart!) but it was unclear whether she would make it. People were hanging around, I guess hoping she wouldn't make it so they'd have a moose for the winter.

Good luck, I hope she makes it out ok.

[farmersammm]

Aw Hell...….she didn't make it. The area where we dug around her filled with water overnight, and she probably died form the cold, and stress. She tried HARD to get out when we were digging yesterday. The will was there, and we couldn't help. Track hoe coulda gotten her out...….long enough reach to get to her, but......tain't got one of those.

………………………………………………………………………………………..

Nothing to do but pick up the steel today. Got lucky, and scored some drops. $25 for what's in the back of the pickup.

Big piece is 5/8, smaller pieces are 3/4. The 3/4 just about ought to be right to keep the original offset. If it's a bit shy, I'll use the 5/8 with some pads. Offset is a problem with the wider tires...…...these tractors were meant to have 7.5x16 tires......the 10.0x16's create an offset problem what with the wider wheel. Tire almost hits the knuckle.

Studs are a bit of an issue.

Was able to find studs with .56 knurl diameter, which should work fine. Overall length, and shoulder length, is gonna be an issue. Probably go with the longest one, and bite the bullet on the cost. Taking into consideration the required countersink, the shorter ones might just do ok....but with little room to spare.

MAILBOX WARS

So...…..I'm in town to pick up steel, and order studs...….so I go to pick up my mail.

The box,, out on the highway, is down. Rotted wood on the post.

Cause of this....few days back, I ask the PO to hold my mail until I can get the box fixed.

I go in to pick up any mail that might be there...……...AND THEY WOULDN'T GIVE IT TO ME

"If you place a hold on your mail, or the mail is held because there's no place to deliver it to...…...you can't get it till you have a place of delivery" Which means, until I install a new box out on the highway, and they deliver to it one time, I can't get my F'n mail.

WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I ask to see the supervisor. Idea is to appeal to some kinda rational thought.

Out comes this prissy, 30 something, little Rainbow Coalition cupcake, with an immaculately trimmed little stupid beard.

Like dealing with a wooden door

I was asked to leave because of my "language".

Post Office 1...…….Sammy 0.

This will be the maybe 3rd, or 4th, run-in with these azzholes. Last time was because my box was 3" below USPS specifications. God Forbid the mail carrier chic has to roll her window down further, and lean a bit. That f'n box has been there since I was a kid, and it's the same height it's always been. We're thinkin' the problem stemmed from me refusing to lease pasture to the mail carriers relative. Gotta luv this area.

So...……….like if there's a wildfire, and your house burns down, along with the "place of delivery"......they wouldn't give ya your mail. F the Post Office!!

[Millwrightdude]

You can call the postal 800 number and file a complaint. I had a similar issue when I stopped the mail. They called the local office and set them strait.

[Woznme]

[QUOTE=farmersammm;8723831]Aw Hell...….she didn't make it.

Sorry about your cow.
cattle station (ranch) I was working at a similar thing happened. Cow slipped into a muddy creek bed. The grazier managed to get some flat slings under her and lifted her out with his hiab which reached. The girl refused to stand. Eventually he lifted her onto the back of the truck and took her back to the house yard so he could look after her. He tried everything to get her up but no luck. Eventually he got pissed off so he yelled and swore at her and kicked her in the arse and she jumped up wandered over to the hay and started eating like nothin happened. Later on a bull happened by and said allo allo allo what have we here and tried to mount her. She collapsed again and afterwards refused to get up. Ended up as t-bone.

[propanehotrod]

I prefer this style indicator magnet because the indicator centerline ends up lower and works better on my lathes. (x axis)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shars-Magne...pe!67501!US!-1

[M J D]

I prefer this style indicator magnet because the indicator centerline ends up lower and works better on my lathes. (x axis)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shars-Magne...pe!67501!US!-1

Almost identical to the ones I have.

[farmersammm]

I prefer this style indicator magnet because the indicator centerline ends up lower and works better on my lathes. (x axis)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shars-Magne...pe!67501!US!-1

I have one of those, but from a different outfit. Thought it would solve all my problems. Only problem...…..it has all these pre-drilled holes that are supposed to fit a variety of indicators....all except mine I need to get around to drilling some holes that fit my indicator. It's a great little magnet, just right for setting a soft stop on the ways.

[farmersammm]

Wheel work still on hold, what with the mailbox thing. And, tomorrow we have to figure out how to get that dead cow out of the mud, and drag her to the other side of the creek for the coyotes. It's a job I always hate doing. We gotta do it real soon, the temps are well above freezing again.

There's never dignity in death.

[farmersammm]

Crap day all around.

Couldn't get to the cow, let alone get a chain on anything. Only her head would be suitable, and I'm not risking ripping her head off. It's depressing enough.

To top it off, the other critters are straying into the same area. K'kins caught one this morning having difficulty pulling her legs out of the muck.

So...……….we gotta leave her in place, and keep the others away from her. Only safe alternative we could come up with, was to fence the area off to keep the cows out. Hopefully the coyotes will come in and do their job. We moved all 7 hay feeders to the other side of the lot to keep the bunch away from this area at night, when the coyotes are feeding.

Love the carryall. It'll get your stuff into areas where a pickup, or any other vehicle won't go, and carry a lotta stuff.

Two strands will keep them out. Driving posts into the muck was harder than you might think. The layers of decomposing hay, combined with manure, and mud, make for a lotta effort. Anything within the boundaries of the temporary fence are simply akin to the Tar Pits out in California.

Wheel work starts tomorrow I guess, providing there's no more problems on the place.

I bought those posts in an online auction sometime back around 2014, and they've sit on the back of a truck frame all this time. Got about 100 of them.

What I didn't realize, when I bid/won, was they're all short posts. Something on the order of 5' or so. Not suitable for running a fence. We use 6' posts. Was gonna just dump them off at auction, but never got around to it. Luckily...…...good thing we had 'em. Used 24 of them for the temporary fence today.

[farmersammm]

This job is gonna require the faceplate.

Went to mount it up to clock it, and found out that it didn't fit. Why am I not surprised

The lock studs wouldn't fit the holes on the spindle. Removed them, and checked to verify that the taper was done properly, and it was. Then measured the studs center to center, comparing the measurement to both of the regular chucks. The faceplate studs were MORE THAN 30 THOUSANDS FURTHER APART CENTER-TO-CENTER. No wonder the dam thing didn't fit. The holes were drilled wrong. The hole circle diameter is too large.



1. In order to get as much wiggle room as possible,, the counter bores were widened, allowing the studs to move more off center. The pockets were binding on them anyway. Die grinder, with a mounted point, made fairly easy work of it. The faceplate is relatively soft.

2. The studs were ground on the bench grinder to give them more clearance inside the spindle camlock bores. All threaded assemblies have some runout.

Once clocked, and the ideal position located...…………….the axial runout wound up being .0035 . Axial runout is the error on the face of the faceplate. Radial runout doesn't concern me because all parts are centered on the spindle......same as a 4 jaw.

As usual, the lil' people do a great job on some things, but fall on their faces in others. Not confidence inspiring, to say the least.

Anyways...….we're ready to turn some wheel center discs.