Thermal Dynamics PakMaster 100XL Plus service manual

[Groundhog whacka]

I picked up a TD Pakmaster 100XL Plus on the cheap. Guy said it worked when it was hooked up to the CNC plasma table. Said his employer upgraded and he bought it from them. I don't know if the torch was trashed or if it stayed with the table, but he bought a brand new SL60 torch and the wiring adapter to mate to the machine. It doesn't work properly when I hooked up power to it. Short story long I downloaded the service manual #0-2785 and was chasing wires to make sure the torch wiring adapter was wired properly and there was a discrepancy in the manual diagram and my machine. I got to looking around and found that there are two different service manuals for that model number. The one I downloaded and manual #0-2814. I realized I had the wrong manual but then the project got put on the back burner. I am wanting to get it going but now can't find anywhere to download the 0-2814. Can anyone help me out finding it?

[Rondo]

The adapter to the 1 torch is very simple. A gas line, an amphenol and 2 trigger wires. Thermal / ESAB can email you the adapter install directions. It takes 2 minutes to do the upgrade. It basically hooks up the same as the original torch, It just doesn't use the Hi Freq wire which should be folded over and inserted in a heat sleeve. I think it's light blue. ( if my memory serves me )

[Brand X]

That wire is also your pilot arc wire. I would hook it up, and use the Thermal Dynamics 8-3440 Restrictor Pin

[waferhead]

So basically the sl60/100 works with hf and the plug for the starter, or with the start cart without hf. For a cnc setup the non hf setup would be a good idea, but if you are scrapping with a plasma axe over paint etc, or cutting expanded metal much by hand hf wins. Its nice both are an option...

It that take away correct?

I would unplug the cd board rather than just cap off the hf, otherwise the hf will arc over internally at the transformer if it has nowhere to go. It can and will jump several inches if the humidity is high.

[ccawgc]

Don't disconnect any pcbs, use as wired. assemble the torch as normal no pins and it should work. The only reason for the pin back pins. is if the plasma can't work with a shorted torch in standby. The plasma starts with a blast of air that will open the torch then the inverter will turn on and the HF will fire. Torch will fire.
On a SL60 torch there are 5 small wires. red is pilot. green and orange are usually tied together, and white and black are use as trigger wires. This puts all the switches in series. So if the cap is removed the trigger switch will not work.
The pakmaster series plasma's use HF to start the torch. the torch will never fire if the HF start pcb is unplugged. The timing sequence is wrong.

[waferhead]

Thanks for the clarification, that's where I ended up after trying it both ways.

I did manage to get it to fire occasionally doing a double tap but it wont automagically restrike w/o hf, so in actual use total pita.
The SL1 works just peachy on a PakMaster with HF.

I scored the needed "adapter" from ye old dead torch head torch and cable, would still like to add the 25" back in as there was nothing wrong with that 3/8" Furon hose/jacket etc...
just not sure what adapter fitting is needed. The wiring is trivial.

[ccawgc]

going to have to post some pictures of what you have and the fitting used.
The SL 60 torch comes two ways. OB2 fitting or ATC quick disconnect plug.
The OB2 should screw right on the bulkhead fitting. Only adapter needed is for the trigger wires. For the SL60 torch to operate correctly, the start cartridge piston must move easy. the nozzle size must match the cut amps used. A 100 amp nozzle will not pilot at 35 amps. but the torch will fire if place down on the metal. just doesn't cut well. also make sure air pressure is set right. around 70psi in air test. Air has to be flowing to set pressure. regulator does not work if air is not moving.
If the start cartridge is sticky or stuck in contact with the nozzle, torch will not fire.
on this plasma it should work if stuck open. You may have to open the handle and check the connections inside. Then reassemble with out pinching any wires.
Pay real close attention to how the wires are place as you remove the handle halves.

[waferhead]

going to have to post some pictures of what you have and the fitting used.
The SL 60 torch comes two ways. OB2 fitting or ATC quick disconnect plug.
The OB2 should screw right on the bulkhead fitting. Only adapter needed is for the trigger wires. For the SL60 torch to operate correctly, the start cartridge piston must move easy. the nozzle size must match the cut amps used. A 100 amp nozzle will not pilot at 35 amps. but the torch will fire if place down on the metal. just doesn't cut well. also make sure air pressure is set right. around 70psi in air test. Air has to be flowing to set pressure. regulator does not work if air is not moving.
If the start cartridge is sticky or stuck in contact with the nozzle, torch will not fire.
on this plasma it should work if stuck open. You may have to open the handle and check the connections inside. Then reassemble with out pinching any wires.
Pay real close attention to how the wires are place as you remove the handle halves.

It works great, and I have a pile of consumables, bought most nozzle sizes, the original pch-100 torch was a similar setup, with 15A through 70A nozzle sizes and matching adjustment range.
(been using it for years with the old torch)

The original torch hose has a female 1/4" compression fitting at the torch end of the hose, and same connector the SL60 (OB2) at the power supply end. Thats the one I'm not certain of.
Best setup, just replace the compression fitting with a 3/8" barb to whatever the power supply has on it.

The "pin" insert for the cartridge locks it in the back position, so I'll install that.

[ccawgc]

Don't change anything. The Gas fitting also carries the cut current.
Please call the thermal dynamics tech support line. Gene and his helpers will help you get it running correctly. AND how to correctly adapt the SL 60 torch.
Before you break it.
There are two surelock torches. the original surelock torch is an HF only torch. used the same cap and nozzles as the earlier torch. Then they changed that design to the SL 60/100 replacement torch, that will work on just about any plasma. works with HF plasmas and non-HF plasma machines. THE SL 60/100 use totally different consumables than previous torches.