a few projects going on in the shop

[idacal]

My clocking sytem is a guy on top with pipe wrench rotating the drop pipe which was 2” pipe we would put 8 holes on a circumference then as pulling up the next 3.’ He would back spin to take out thetwist out of the hydrualic hoses. We have to pump cement to total depth this one iwill eather show a little pressure on the pump plate or flow at ground level. Im payed by the yard so the more the merrier. I have 20 yards of neat cement coming with an extra truck in reserve

[_Dom]

That is impressive. Eight holes in five minutes and then up to the next level.
80' head pressure is I think 31 psi assuming crude oil S.G. = 0.9?
Do you have to overpressure in an attempt to backfill the producing zone?
Regarding conditions downhole, did you have good records?

[idacal]

very few records at all, this well was underneath the sidewalk and road. bore hole size should have taken a little over 7 yards we put in 10 to bring cement to surface then pressured in another 5 yard to bring the psi up around a 100 wouldn't hold it but everyone was happy then dumped the rest of the cement in the vault to fill all the plumbing up that was left. it was mainly a gravel formation well that had been unused for 20 years while town built up around it.

[_Dom]

Thanks for the detailed response. Did you mean you had to hold 100 psi pressure on the cement until it set? Is this a common technique that you use often? Sorry to derail the shop talk but I am interested in how that was accomplished. Looking forward to more pictures of your new rig!

[idacal]

no we just like to see pressure hold for a couple of minutes its always going to leak down in gravel formations. that just lets us know that all the voids close to the casing, ( those that are caused by the original drilling and the pumping of sand are plugged) those are a direct conduit to the formation. Idaho has been working for years to make sure that there isn't 1000s of unused wells out there with a bucket over them for a cap, and the enforcement has gotten a lot more envolved. but in the big towns there is some aquifers 100 plus foot down that are unusable because of chemical contamination. so its a needed thing when a high percentage of the states water is well water

[idacal]

worked on the gear a bit today basically 3 pieces welded together I wasn't doing the lathe work I would blow the tolerance, one of my guys is really good at this. but we found the limit of a 30 amp breaker on a lathe cut. we will be pressing in bearings tomorrow probably use some heat, will find out if its going to work or not. I have no idea how many pounds of metal were turned to chips on this project
finally got a angle plate built for my shaper for doing internal keyways don't have any pictures of it cutting a keyway but do of machining out the right angle plate. also I picked up a work truck for the guys. we were going to build a new bed for it but lost the engine on the drill rig so its sitting for week till I can get another engine shipped in. so we are going to just paint it up and mount the old bed on the new truck. some day we may build a purty bed for it. but right now this is the best time to do it while everything is broke.

[12V71]

Nice truck. What rig engine did you lose?

[idacal]

It was a 3406A model im going back in with a 3406B, found a low hour generator that is going to be the donor this is the engine on the deck. It wasnt unexpected just its never a good time, we were blowing a1/2 gallon of oil out the blow by a day
Now we are blowing antfreeze out of the radiator so time to fix.

[farmshop]

Some pretty impressive machining. Hopefully your engine swap goes smooth. If I had the money I’d like to go to California and buy up some of the trucks carb is forcing off the road

[12V71]

It was a 3406A model im going back in with a 3406B, found a low hour generator that is going to be the donor this is the engine on the deck. It wasnt unexpected just its never a good time, we were blowing a1/2 gallon of oil out the blow by a day
Now we are blowing antfreeze out of the radiator so time to fix.

3406B is a great engine, much better than the A model. I just asked because most deck and booster engines I see are the 12V71 Detroits on most rigs. I have seen a newer rig with a C-16 Cat on deck, I think it was a T-5 Ingersoll on a 4 axle Crane Carrier chassis. I do know it could set 40' joints of 18" casing.

[idacal]

A lot of the newer small rigs have 5 to 600 horse on the deck. the bigger ones with compressors on them are easily 800 horse one of the local drillers on his big rig has a 3406 to run the hydrualics and a 3412 for the air compressor. Most everybody here has got away from the 2 stroke detroits there is a few 8 92s still drilling around here but most have been retired. I dont have anywere close to enough horsepower if i start loading up the compressor and strart trying to trip out of the hole i will kill it every time if its not wide open.

[idacal]

got the bearings pushed in the inner sleeve took about 12 ton and the outter about 22 ton to push them together if AI had to do it over would have used the next size smaller bearing so they could have been held in by keeper rings o well, will see if the bearings move in the bores. the key way in the inner is because the whole assembly needs to move lenthwise about 1/4" when the clutch engages that is the main problem all this was to overcome.

[idacal]

I have a magnetic base drill bit but it is so slopped out that layouts are never accurate anymore. Im going to be getting another and Im hoping to be starting the truck frame project in a week or 2, can't fit the rails into my drill press, whitch would be my first choice, we could unbolt it from the floor i guess, and set it in the middle of the shop. Im thinking of getting one of those big old milwaukee's that run standard twist bits for this rail job they seem to stay in a center prick way better, doing double rails, the slugs are a pain from the annulars, rails will be sitting flat so the weight is not so much an issue. but then I still don't have a compact mag drill that's accurate or something kind of in the middle, a fein slugger that runs both, still heavier than a compact. just needs advice.

[kb0thn]

I have one of these Hougen's:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There is a jacobs drill chuck adapter for it that works well. For bigger diameter bits I usually end up using screw machine length bits since the chuck chews up a decent amount of the travel.
https://www.hougen.com/accessories/a...ies_index.html

I like that drill better than the worn out Milwaukee mag drills I have used in the past.

You are right, when the slug jams in the annular cutter and you don't notice it or can't get it out ... a mess. I sometimes do 304 stainless with annular cutters. A second of not cutting because of a jammed slug and you are into a work hardened world of hurt.

[WeldCrazyDude]

I have a hougen HMD 904 as well. I too bought the twist chuck and adapter but I've only used annular cutters thus far. I only bought the mag drill a month ago so I don't have a ton of holes under my belt but it came highly recommended off this forum and hasn't disappointed thus far. If you don't foresee ever having to drill bigger than 1.5" holes or if want to keep the mag drill as light as possible, I'd suggest this one. My research showed that back in the day many people claimed the old milwaukee ones were work horses but they were a pain to work with due to weight. I'd still probably stick with a Hougen if I wanted bigger capability IMHO...

[12V71]

The best way to do rails with annular cutters is to drill the outer first, then drop it over the inner rail and clamp it tight and use the outer holes to center the cutter for the next holes. I like to do the holes undersize then ream them to final size when its all setup with the crossmembers in place. I like tight bolt holes in truck frames, eliminates a lot of loosening issues.
I use oiled fine thread 5/8" flange bolts and nuts and beat them down with a medium powered 3/4" impact. One other thing is never use a scribe to mark out holes, i repaired a broken frame a while back where somebody used a scribe mounting a lift axle on a single frame truck... guess where the break started. That one got double framed on both sides 18" each side of the break on both sides.

[scsmith42]

Great post! I’ve enjoyed watching your machine work process. That old gear cutter is a beast!

[idacal]

got the gear all installed and ready to go just have to put all the guards back on the rig. generator got here today and we tore into the other drill rig, got the engine out of the rig, generator disassembled, and compressor mounted up to the new engine. start installing tomorrow hopefully, some flat out pooped guys today. I made one mistake for sure did not mark the harmonic balancer before it got taken off the new engine do those need to be timed? or how do you reinstall a 3406b harmonic balancer? I found the scribe line on the piece that mounts to the crank but not on the harmonic balancer we had to change the pulley so I need some advice?. pictures never seem to be in order.

[farmshop]

I like watching jc smith on you tube. He is always modifying truck frames and uses one of the Milwaukee cordless mag drills. Seems like a pretty slick tool

[12V71]

No, the balancer is not timed. IIRC the torque on the bolts is around 190 lb ft.

Is the cable rig a Speedstar?

[idacal]

got the engine in but unfortunately I can't use the generator injector pump controls, it was controlled by an electronic board even in 87, but wasn't set up for a throttle section so idle or wide open. so I have to pull the ejector pump off and send it out to change out the governor section and a mechanical throttle. any way to bar this engine over easily without a barring tool? Im going to start calling tomorrow, to see if I can find one local. while we are down the guys have been prepping the work bed for paint and then install on the new truck .not going to look great, but from 40' away it aught to look good. the cable tool is an ideco least thats what's casted into some of the parts. I haven't seen any other, were not a lot of them built.

[farmshop]

Must have been a bit of an odd duck engine. We have a c model in a 93 Pete that was mechanical control only electrical was fuel shut off

[12V71]

Must have been a bit of an odd duck engine. We have a c model in a 93 Pete that was mechanical control only electrical was fuel shut off

The only 3406 C models I have worked on were those miserable electronic PEEC engines, A whole lot of those got converted to 3406 Bs with a mechanical governor and advance unit. B and C were identical engines except for the electronics.
Idacal's engine is from a genset with electronic speed control that was designed to maintain engine speed from the generator frequency.

[idacal]

while i fret and worry over the injection pump. we have test fitted the bed and got it painted today its what's called a 20' paint job, but its at least 1 color. we shot it with an airless sprayer, because that's what I had. using cloverdale armor shield will see how it lasts. definitely getting a fresh air system for next time don't like the head aches. next step is running lights and hopefully my injection pump by the end of the week

[6Boys]

Looking good!