a few projects going on in the shop

[idacal]

i got the bed installed, lights put in, and have been driving it around. Im not used to vehicles that are tight, Im all over the road. the truck it replaced was at 300,000 miles and my truck is there also. I ended bidding at an auction and got a box and pan brake looking forward to using that but also in the lot was a bunch of greenlee conduit and threaded pipe dies and benders. is this stuff worth anything or were would I try for selling it?

[scsmith42]

Yes, that Greenlee hydraulic pipe bender is worth something. Commercial electricians use them for bending rigid electrical conduit. I’d say it should sell in the $500 - $1000 range easily.

[tapwelder]

The hydraulic pump and ram would be useful to a wider clientele.

[idacal]

I think I will send all the pipe and conduit stuff through an auction I have no use for it and would like to get a start on saving for a good hydraulic hose machine need to be able to do 1" at 5000 psi hose so I think I need a 60 ton machine. but while I have been waiting for my injection pump I started working on my newest to me purchase. thanks to danielplace on here i was able to rewire it from 440 to 220 now Im just waiting on a new set of coils for the starters then bending time. 10 gauge at 8 foot. this machine is old enough that its all straight gears and electric, and quite fast on the bend. gone take some getting used to have all the fingers just haven't unloaded them yet.

[Welder Dave]

Try to sell the bender private. Look here for some prices on new.

https://www.toolup.com/greenlee/cond...raulic-benders

[idacal]

rig finally went out today, 4 weeks and 3 days down. ouch. had to send a guy to salt lake to pick up the injection pump after it didn't get shipped the thursday before memorial day like it was supposed to. still need to wire in the temp gauge permanently and the tach but its running and drilling. had a bunch of worn out old parts come in off of a star 72 so that's the fill in work for the shop. but the winch needs mounted first thats next weeks project

[idacal]

haven't added to this for a while. that winch was totally trashed internally, so it ended up in the recycle bin. have been slammed busy, but had little easy fix, carnage today. and now my help knows why everything is gusseted and overbuilt had to change some of the mounting points when the bed got changed and the gussets to the bumper didn't get put back in it was hooked to a truck trying to pull it out of the mud and this was the result. also a new flat bed for the old work truck.

[idacal]

new flat bed pictures didn't go here they are
also my first stick welding of aluminum, that stuff welds fast but on thicker stuff it looks like it would work, for the few times I weld aluminum.
on the flat bed we are going to bend up some underbody boxes just haven't got to it yet.

[idacal]

finally started the truck re railing about 16 hours to get the front stripped off the truck and the first rail pulled out last picture is how bad the rust was on the rails

[idacal]

have a couple more pictures but now Im a bit stumped, now its time to transfer the holes, are we better off cutting the flanges off the old rail and transfer punching? or should we build a long distance transfer punch with a jig and leave the flange on the old rails. any advise on this stage of the project would be great I really don't want holes in the wrong spot. we were going to double rail all the way through to the front but the front motor mount actually drills through the flanges. so a outrigger on the front would be working that part of the frame so outriggers are going behind the cab, double rail to past the back spring front axle hanger

[tapwelder]

I like gasket material as a template. You can get perfect holes by typing with a hammer. The mark like reference points on the channels. I have used this technique on a much smaller scale than your application.

Laser levels are nice, if you got one. You could align the channel in air and transfer references.

[12V71]

have a couple more pictures but now Im a bit stumped, now its time to transfer the holes, are we better off cutting the flanges off the old rail and transfer punching? or should we build a long distance transfer punch with a jig and leave the flange on the old rails. any advise on this stage of the project would be great I really don't want holes in the wrong spot. we were going to double rail all the way through to the front but the front motor mount actually drills through the flanges. so a outrigger on the front would be working that part of the frame so outriggers are going behind the cab, double rail to past the back spring front axle hanger

You can probably cut the flanges off the old rail and leave just enough that it will self center on the new rail. Not sure I would trust an extended transfer setup.

Or some very precise measuring...

[idacal]

thats kind of what I was thinking about a long transfer punch even in a machined guide even with just a few thousands tolerance by the time its out 3" it could be out a ways especially with all the wobbles in this rail. this old frame is so twisted and bent that we probably have to cut the flanges completely off and a little bit of measuring is doable. but precise measuring of that many holes? Im garrenteed to screw that up. my brain dont work precise stuff that well. i do like the idea of cutting the flanges off that would work, the KISS principal I guess

[12V71]

thats kind of what I was thinking about a long transfer punch even in a machined guide even with just a few thousands tolerance by the time its out 3" it could be out a ways especially with all the wobbles in this rail. this old frame is so twisted and bent that we probably have to cut the flanges completely off and a little bit of measuring is doable. but precise measuring of that many holes? Im garrenteed to screw that up. my brain dont work precise stuff that well. i do like the idea of cutting the flanges off that would work, the KISS principal I guess

Just be sure to have a reference point from the bottom of the rail. That will be critical for the suspension hangers, etc.
Possibly drill the holes a 1/16" undersize and match them with a frame reamer at assembly time.

[idacal]

I hadn't thought of a frame reamer I will get one ordered that will make my holes as true as possible I was trying to figure out how to get right to size.

[Woznme]

I've tried transfering holes with a laser, about 15ft, didn't work out for me. Won't be doing that again!

[farmshop]

I don’t envy your task of Chang those rails out

[idacal]

got one rail ready to go back in find out tomorrow how far off all the drilling was. we are going to drill the bogys after change both rails and move them forward. the mag drill can reach all the holes in place. I picked up a new mag drill a cs mab 525 sb that runs annulars or morse bits made drilling a piece of cake used standard bits so we could do both rails at once.
I'm wondering how to tell if the chalmers (dogbones that mount on top of the rear end and the frame. ) rubber bushings need changed those look like holy hell trying to change once something is on the bed.

[bigfoot]

You should not have any play but bushings are not that expensive I'd probably change them do them one at a time so the crossmember doesn't get away from you

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

[leightrepairs]

Idacal, Hougen and I am sure others make annular cutters that will cut through multiple pieces in on pass. Hougen calls them Stack Cut geometry.

[idacal]

I haven't posted up in here for a while. but we had some carnage over the last couple of weeks. had a cylinder end pull through, didn't get picture before we cut the ends off, built new pin mounts with 2" holes then drilled the holes on the tower in place out to 2" from ovaled 1.75 hole that is a 2" drill bit that was in the the bin, kinda junk but didn't mind lathing it down.so far I'm liking this mag drill it has some power. the last picture is were we welded the new (pin bosses?) to the cylinder ends headed backup to the job and lost the rear ends in the truck half way up the mountains. that is for the next post

[idacal]

started pulling the rear ends to see if it was fixable. it melted down the aluminum plate, spun the bearing races and its a 7.21 gear reduction rear end, looks like someone else has been in here before, welding in the bearings decided to do a truck change rather than trying to find parts that are not available. was planning on changing the truck just was going to be this winter so

[idacal]

finished the truck re-railing had about 90 man hours redoing just the rails probably 160 hours total with everything but this was our first time ever doing something like that next time would be a lot faster. came out really nice. changed out the front springs all the upper bushings. slid it under this rig, just working on the outriggers now.

[idacal]

Almost have this ready to go out on the road Ended up having issues with the 4 th outrigger and had to totally rebuild it costed about 2 weeks by the time it was shipped here then a new cylinder was built but thats life i guess. Here is a hard tubing rats nest i like running hard lines as much as possible just for cleaner lines. the off set bends In the plate connecting the rig to the truck rails Was something i saw done in an irshfixit post years ago with stacked plates Never know when knowledge from someone else is usefull years later
Hoping for paint this winter but we wil see

[12V71]

As one who has worked on the engines in several drill rig trucks with front mount outriggers, I for one appreciate the the outriggers behind the cab.