Best method to drill hundreds of holes

[Reebz]

I was thinking of using/incorporating the drill bushing in the template. Does that make sense?

[tapwelder]

Brooklyn
I'm kind of slow. We may be saying the same thing. I scribe a mark every two inches, center punch the steel. Then I drill a 1/4 pilot hole with a long drill bite from Mcmaster carr. It goes through the top and bottom,both sides. I then take an ordinary twist bit in 5/8 drill the top. Move down the length of tube down then flip it and do the back side. Its slow but accurate.
Like this: https://www.mrmtool.com/Hougen-12220...saAvM9EALw_wcB


Liss2323
That is a great idea, I was thinking of making it myself. But getting a laser cut templete might be the way to go. Get it so it slips over the 3x3 and or 2x3 tube like a saddle. Punch, slide, punch repeat.

MJD
I have never heard of a drill bushing. I will look into that. Thank you

Thanks guys

Seems like you will be potentially/transferring transferring a lot of error. You only need one hole or square edge. Then reference off that first hole. Have a gage and check spacing frequently.

It may not be critical for gym equipment, but it will be easier than making a bunch of marks. Also, flipping will be no issue if you have a common reference point like the top of squared end of the tube.

[TJS]

Here is my JIG in this vid. You can see how I was able to space the holes out after the first one. This was made on a Bpt with a DRO and the round stock was machined so it is round. Vid 7 shows how I located the holes in the arch with the tools I made.

[M J D]

I was thinking of using/incorporating the drill bushing in the template. Does that make sense?

Exactly what I was trying to say. That would eliminate a possible error in punching and hitting that mark. By using multiple bushings you can have multiple setups.

[Reebz]

MJD
I like it. Set 4 or 5 drill bushings in a jig. Hit with transfer punch them and drill as I have. Reduce error speed set up.


Tapwelder
You are correct I will have to be very careful I setting up the jig

[Reebz]

I'm shopping for drill bushings. I want 1/4 ID and threaded.
Never heard of these before!!

[Mac's Crew]

almost sounds like a drill block... I like to bomb site in to my scribe line... if that scribe is shot by a gerber scribe (CNC scribe). Then pilot and drill to size using different sizes of slip renewable drill bushings. I haven't had to do this since I was an apprentice... Now I get to delegate at work or just have the CNC shoot it in. And by delegate we have 15 or so apprentices in the shop... GRUNT LABOR. I think that these lessons actually help a person learn the processes available to them. (HOME Projects for critical thinkers)

[Mac's Crew]

I'm shopping for drill bushings. I want 1/4 ID and threaded.
Never heard of these before!!

Look for a larger size OD than you will want for the ID, ie 1/4 ID x 1/2 OD x 1 Long... fairly standard in my tool box... I think I have 2 dozen at work... we used to need them more than we do now. Also if you have access to a lathe... just get screws the size you need and put a pilot hole in them... #30 is common practice here, but if it is like a 1/2 - 13 bolt you can probably get a 5/16 and put a bushing in that too... options so many options

[Reebz]

Thanks Mac
The other day I was making something and and thought "Real shops do it different than this, but this is what I got". Problem solving

[Mac's Crew]

Car-Lane sells them... don't know how much, they are free at work, and if you really need it done for the threaded ask any machine shop if they will it only takes a couple minutes on a conventional lathe to bore small hole through a bolt. I like socket headed cap screws, when you have been into the beer a bit they help you transfer because the bottom of the hex area is tapered.

[M J D]

I'm shopping for drill bushings. I want 1/4 ID and threaded.
Never heard of these before!!

Check McMaster Carr.

[BrooklynBravest]

I actually needed to drill quite a few repeat holes in tubing today so I made a quick tutorial of my down and dirty method for this.

I am drilling 1" tube so I used a piece of 1" scrap I had around. It is 3/8" thick solely because that is what I had laying around without plasma cutting something out of plate. Thicker is better however because it aligns the transfer punch better.

Here I used a 5/16" transfer punch because its a moderately hefty size to work with for repetitive use. The thinner punches start to bend after being whacked so many times.

Did my layout as accurate as possible. Center punched them. Drilled them to 5/16. Dressed it up with some chamfered edges and cleaned the scale off. (mostly so I don't mistake it for scrap and throw it in the bin)

After that its just a matter of getting creative to transfer marks. I use these magnets and it works great for me. I laid out 60 holes in about 5 minutes tops.

Used the rotobroach discussed earlier in the thread to punch my holes almost instantly with no pilot required (as long as you have a sturdy punch divot)

And yes, I make myself fancy drawings with a logo on it so I feel important.

The drill bushing setup will without a doubt be nicer. But this is a quick way to do it with items on hand.

[psacustomcreations]

Looks good. Maybe use a Sharpie and write the name of the jig on it.

Do you have to drill those rotabroach holes on the other side as well? Looks like the seam is on the other side.

[BrooklynBravest]

Looks good. Maybe use a Sharpie and write the name of the jig on it.

Do you have to drill those rotabroach holes on the other side as well? Looks like the seam is on the other side.

I sometimes use letter punches to write template on it but once i finish setting up a plasma jig i won’t be hand drilling.

And yes it is through both sides, weld seam doesn’t effect it.

[Reebz]

Looks great. I wish I had some of you folks as neighbors. LOL

[Lis2323]

I’ve been using Unistrut with 1” o/c spacing to layout templates.

A 7/16” transfer punch is kept perpendicular by the two holes

[Lis2323]

This afternoon I was messing around making a jig that would work for what the OP needs. I was getting there but came up with a better plan. I’ll rip this apart and start over tomorrow.

Discouraging when you realize once again you’re nowhere near as smart as you think you are.

[psacustomcreations]

Terry has a great idea of the unistrut.
Another option might be to get some perforated metal that has the hole size/spacing you need.
It is not as thick as Brooklyn's example, but may help with layout.

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[Lis2323]

Okay the jig I made today actually works quite well. The unistrut allows for spacing of 1” increments.

[Munkul]

I love seeing ideas like this. I barely have an ounce of creativity so i have to see things like this, and store them in the memory banks so I can use them myself when needed!

[psacustomcreations]

Terry,
That is a great idea for using the unistrut that way.

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[Reebz]

Lis2323
I Love it.
No pilot hole!
Did you center punch?
Drill the front side, Flip it drill the back side and it all lines up i assume.
What model Hougen drill is that?
Thank you for sharing.
I need pictures. LOL

[Lis2323]

Lis2323
I Love it.
No pilot hole!
Did you center punch?
Drill the front side, Flip it drill the back side and it all lines up i assume.
What model Hougen drill is that?
Thank you for sharing.
I need pictures. LOL

Thank you

Correct

No center punch. I figured that defeated the purpose of a jig.


Correct. BUT if I had the setup elevated I think I would have tried drilling through both walls with a 2” doc cutter.
Hougen HMD 905

What hole spacing are you using for the squat rack?

[tapwelder]

Thank you

Correct

No center punch. I figured that defeated the purpose of a jig.

This is on point

[tapwelder]

Also revisit TJS' video at 22 seconds where he shows his original jig. Simple and accurate.