Geared head drill press?

[BrooklynBravest]

Yep you’re correct .0005 and .0006

I imagine should i get a milling table, with a pseudo mill/drill press setup .0001 in my collet isn’t gonna be where my slop comes from.

[thegary]

Yep you’re correct .0005 and .0006

I imagine should i get a milling table, with a pseudo mill/drill press setup .0001 in my collet isn’t gonna be where my slop comes from.

right you are!

[BrooklynBravest]

Another side note, i believe the press comes with the double horizontal blade style electrical cord on it.

Would it be a bad idea to chop the plug off and change it to a standard double vertical prong welding plug so i can use it on my current outlets? I’d rather not add an entirely separate fixture.

[M J D]

I assume your talking a 220v plug. As long as it's a 3 wire setup, I don't see an issue. If it's a 4 wire setup( utilizing a neutral wire) you would need to pull a new circuit.

[BrooklynBravest]

I assume your talking a 220v plug. As long as it's a 3 wire setup, I don't see an issue. If it's a 4 wire setup( utilizing a neutral wire) you would need to pull a new circuit.

Nah it’s 3 wire i checked the manual.

[davec]

My shop is set up with a bunch of 20A 220V twist lock outlets, so i always cut off the standard blade plug and put a twist lock on. No worries about changing the plug to what you need, as long as the circuit has enough capacity to run the tool.

[BrooklynBravest]

My shop is set up with a bunch of 20A 220V twist lock outlets, so i always cut off the standard blade plug and put a twist lock on. No worries about changing the plug to what you need, as long as the circuit has enough capacity to run the tool.

I actually have a spare 220v plug for my 210mp and square wave 200. It has a twist lock female on one end.

I think I’m gonna use that as an adapter for the drill press. The welder plug is gigantic for
The drill itself.

[BrooklynBravest]

Just came today 4 hours ago. Took me 2 hours to get it off the double high pallet and onto the crawler base.

I grossly misjudged how heavy and big it was.

All the milled surfaces are very nice and clean. It is of course lathered in oil all over...

Getting the protective plastic off from under the knobs is also near impossible.

Only real complaint is the forward reverse switch is made of garbage plastic. Also it says left right instead of forward reverse.

It came with a little toolbox with allen keys and some wrenches. Couple of cheapo T bolts for the table and some r8 chuck items.

[BrooklynBravest]

[acourtjester]

Good show, they should send a set of chinese glasses so the switch looks right
I like your magnetic escalator some guys are just smarter the the average bear.

[Mac's Crew]

Oh oh I am so stealing that idea... and looks like fun times to be had.

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[BrooklynBravest]

Good show, they should send a set of chinese glasses so the switch looks right
I like your magnetic escalator some guys are just smarter the the average bear.

I sat there scratching my head for 15 minutes about how i was going to get 700 lbs off a double pallet, alone, without risk of extreme injury.

In reference to my other thread about the plug, it has a pretty light gauge plug and i did not want to open the box up to start putting a full replacement cord in. I took about 3 feet off the stock plug so it wasn’t super long and am using my SW200 spare 220 plug as an adapter now. Worked out perfect.

Using drawbar is super easy I love it so far over a Morse taper.

My first hole I decided to go big and use the Weldon Adapter I ordered along with a 1.5” annular cutter. Drill has 0 struggle tearing through the tube.

The table is an absolute tank as well, i have no doubt it is rigid enough to use with a decent milling table strapped to it and will be looking to order one soon.

[M J D]

Keep in mind that annular cutters require a lot less torque than twist drills. With that being said I'm sure that machine has plenty of torque to run the large twist drills. I agree with the drawbar setup being the way to go. I'm sure with a few fixtures your production rate will improve immensely over your previous setup

[BrooklynBravest]

Keep in mind that annular cutters require a lot less torque than twist drills. With that being said I'm sure that machine has plenty of torque to run the large twist drills. I agree with the drawbar setup being the way to go. I'm sure with a few fixtures your production rate will improve immensely over your previous setup

While on the subject, my impression is the draw bar doesn’t require very heavy tightening? Seems the alignment/keyed slot in the R8 tooling would be taking the brunt of force.

[M J D]

The key or slot really doesn't drive anything it's mainly to keep it from turning while you tighten the drawbar. It really doesn't need to be cranked down real tight either. If I had to guess I'd say 25 ft lbs give or take. A brass hammer is ideal for releasing the drawbar after loosening a few turns.

[thegary]

You are going to want to buy an indicator to dial in the table to the spindle. The drill press has a tilting head and a tilting table. You can get buy with a good square to set it up for drilling holes but if you buy a milling table you are going to want to dial it in perfectly.

[thegary]

While on the subject, my impression is the draw bar doesn’t require very heavy tightening? Seems the alignment/keyed slot in the R8 tooling would be taking the brunt of force.

That is true for using your annular cutter adapter and the drill chuck but when you put something directly into a collet you will need to tighten the drawbar more .

The power draw br tighteners usually use a 3/8 butterfly wrench. I believe they are rated at 75 ft lbs.

[BrooklynBravest]

That is true for using your annular cutter adapter and the drill chuck but when you put something directly into a collet you will need to tighten the drawbar more .

The power draw br tighteners usually use a 3/8 butterfly wrench. I believe they are rated at 75 ft lbs.

I have a magnetic dial indicator i figure I’ll have to sit there tapping either side running it back and fourth to get it right any time i want to use it.

What would be the best way to ensure the headstock is dead vertical? Thinking throw a piece drill rod in the collet and just use a square to the table?

[thegary]

I have a magnetic dial indicator i figure I’ll have to sit there tapping either side running it back and fourth to get it right any time i want to use it.

What would be the best way to ensure the headstock is dead vertical? Thinking throw a piece drill rod in the collet and just use a square to the table?

That would be good enough for a drill press.

[BrooklynBravest]

That would be good enough for a drill press.

I’m guessing making precision repeated holes etc on a real mill is where that wouldn’t be good? Or precision cut surfaces over a long span.

[psacustomcreations]

The brass hammer comment is spot on for loosening the collet in the draw bar.

Loosen the draw bar a few turns then give the draw bar a tap with the brass hammer or hard mallet. The collet will drop down then use your hand to unscrew it.

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[Mac's Crew]

I have a magnetic dial indicator i figure I’ll have to sit there tapping either side running it back and fourth to get it right any time i want to use it.

What would be the best way to ensure the headstock is dead vertical? Thinking throw a piece drill rod in the collet and just use a square to the table?

Rough in for a mill to that precision...then I use my jeweled indicator to swing it in...


Some jack@ss laid a Bridgeport head over to 45° x 45° for one hole... not using a sine bar or sine plate... just lay it over to roughly whatever drill a hole and walk away. Frigging 2nd shift. But a drill blank and a square can rough you in quickly enough for that.

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[BrooklynBravest]

The brass hammer comment is spot on for loosening the collet in the draw bar.

Loosen the draw bar a few turns then give the draw bar a tap with the brass hammer or hard mallet. The collet will drop down then use your hand to unscrew it.

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I was using one of those orange dead blow hammers. I figured that was the move to not damage it.

[thegary]

I was using one of those orange dead blow hammers. I figured that was the move to not damage it.

It might take a year but eventually the dead blow will be damaged. I use a brass hammer .

[thegary]

I’m guessing making precision repeated holes etc on a real mill is where that wouldn’t be good? Or precision cut surfaces over a long span.

Yes , milling a face or cutting a keyway.