Geared head drill press?

[thegary]

I looked on the Shars site. They have what your looking for. If it fits your quill holder sku 202-6026 for $13.15 is what I would get. Just do not forget it is there and turn on the quill. Mill table SKU 202-2302 has the dials you want. $194. As far as the indicator goes Match the specs for the interapid they have there. It has .060 total travel. They have several indicators that are all similar so like I say try to get the same specs as the Interapid. Look at the mounting dove tails on the interapid and match that also ,it lends itself to many positions and comes with a few different mounts.

That interapid indicator they sell for $245 back 45 years ago was about $350 back then.

[BrooklynBravest]

Thank you for taking the time to look.

Is that $13 one sufficient? they have the nicer one here https://www.shars.com/products/measu...er-clamp-mount

But if the $13 one works that sounds good to me...

I think that shars table is identical to the grizzly? They get $50 more for shipping though


Looking at this for the vise

https://www.shars.com/products/workh...g-machine-vise

They have a swivel one at the same price but I am thinking that is just one more variable I have to account for


There is this 3" guy as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-6-Bench-C...47ff4c109330e9

[thegary]

Thank you for taking the time to look.

Is that $13 one sufficient? they have the nicer one here https://www.shars.com/products/measu...er-clamp-mount

But if the $13 one works that sounds good to me...

I think that shars table is identical to the grizzly? They get $50 more for shipping though


Looking at this for the vise

https://www.shars.com/products/workh...g-machine-vise

They have a swivel one at the same price but I am thinking that is just one more variable I have to account for


There is this 3" guy as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-6-Bench-C...47ff4c109330e9

I guess I did not see that holder you put the link to. It would be more solid than the cheaper on so it would be better. You need to make sure the vise is not too big for the table but the 4" would be prefered if it does not dwarf the table.

[BrooklynBravest]

I guess I did not see that holder you put the link to. It would be more solid than the cheaper on so it would be better. You need to make sure the vise is not too big for the table but the 4" would be prefered if it does not dwarf the table.

I assume you are referring to the width.

Is it a big deal if it overhangs the table? Im guessing any vise will.

[thegary]

I assume you are referring to the width.

Is it a big deal if it overhangs the table? Im guessing any vise will.

yes any vise will but unless you get one with a swivel base it would be good if it could bolt down to the table in either direction. The bolt center line might not fit the slots in the table. It would not be a deal breaker if it did not fit but It is something to check and will make for versatility.

[BrooklynBravest]

yes any vise will but unless you get one with a swivel base it would be good if it could bolt down to the table in either direction. The bolt center line might not fit the slots in the table. It would not be a deal breaker if it did not fit but It is something to check and will make for versatility.

In that case, would you advise I just get the swivel?

[thegary]

In that case, would you advise I just get the swivel?

All I can tell you is I do not have one and I have not had the need for it but with that said I am only a machinist want to be. I can do some stuff but I am not a pro and only do basic stuff.

[thegary]

to be honest I rarely use a vise at all. I usually just clamp stuff down to the table . I do use 1,2,3 blocks quite a bit and I have 4 of them I use to hold stuff up off the table . I cut keyways in cold rolled round a lot and just clamp the round stock to the table. But I usually do larger stuff than you do. 1" round stock is about the smallest I deal with . The vise is good for working with small parts . You will find that a set of parallel bars works well with a vise for spacing stuff up near the top of the jaws. Also a small diameter dead blow hammer works well for making sure parts sit down on the parallels. Actually you will find that a leather head hammer works the best but they are hard to find. This is all stuff you will have to work through when needing to machine something.

[thegary]

I thought of some other tools you will need for machining stuff. You will need a center finder and an edge finder. The edge finder will be used the most.

Machining tools are a bottomless pit for money so be careful about buying stuff you will not use even though it sounds good. Also as far as end mills go only get 4 flute . 2 flute mills are for soft metal like aluminum and brass. You will also need to use cutting oil for machining.

[farmersammm]

https://www.ebay.com/i/293051720098?chn=ps

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dial-Test-i....c100005.m1851

These is a good starter set I'd guess. The important thing to remember about an indicator is repeatability. It doesn't have to be dead nutz accurate as far as measuring tenths...……...it's just in essence, a comparator. You're judging movement of the needle. It just has to read the same on either end of the table travel, quill travel, etc...……….. You're just looking for movement, or lack thereof.

I think you'll enjoy this stuff as you get deeper into it.

[BrooklynBravest]

https://www.ebay.com/i/293051720098?chn=ps

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dial-Test-i....c100005.m1851

These is a good starter set I'd guess. The important thing to remember about an indicator is repeatability. It doesn't have to be dead nutz accurate as far as measuring tenths...……...it's just in essence, a comparator. You're judging movement of the needle. It just has to read the same on either end of the table travel, quill travel, etc...……….. You're just looking for movement, or lack thereof.

I think you'll enjoy this stuff as you get deeper into it.

So that one is .015 travel.

Gary recommended .060?

I found tons of .030 as well. The price seems to double from each step in measuring capacity.

I will probably order the compound table today And the dial to see how it does before investing more into it.

[thegary]

So that one is .015 travel.

Gary recommended .060?

I found tons of .030 as well. The price seems to double from each step in measuring capacity.

I will probably order the compound table today And the dial to see how it does before investing more into it.

Like I said the more travel the better. Let your pocket book be your guide. They will all work.

[Insaneride]

BrooklynBravest, I read your whole thread. Some good advice some bad imo. I know what a trammel is and what tramming a mill is altho I've never had to tram a mill. My two cents, use a machinist square to square your table to the quill. Check after a few hours of use.

I wouldn't use that drill as a mill. It could work as a vertical lathe for limited use.

[BrooklynBravest]

BrooklynBravest, I read your whole thread. Some good advice some bad imo. I know what a trammel is and what tramming a mill is altho I've never had to tram a mill. My two cents, use a machinist square to square your table to the quill. Check after a few hours of use.

I wouldn't use that drill as a mill. It could work as a vertical lathe for limited use.

What is your reasoning not to try and mill something with it?

My knowledge is limited clearly but i don’t see why it wouldn’t work? The next model up comes with an XY table on it.

Obviously none of these are as good as a true knee mill but their Mill/Drills are all built on what seems to be the same platform.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...wer-Feed/G0755

[Insaneride]

BrooklynB, first of all I have to say your doing a good thing and I admire what your doing. Essential to community and all.

I wouldn't use it as a mill because a drill press isn't made for lateral load. Same goes for using as a vertical lathe but with a dead center you could lighten the lateral load. You should check with Grizzly about warranty for use as a mill. I did see the one with cross slide but thought it was for position and not transition but I could be wrong. It is a nice drill.

If you dont have an indicator then use a machinist square and the straightest drill bit you have. Chuck the drill bit and square the table nominal to drill bit and tighten up. If I needed optimum, I would level, use a transit and gauge blocks/square. I used a machinist square on my two drill presses. On my mill drill, I used a laser speed square ( no machinist square at the time) and double checked with a transit. Transit or alignment scope is whut got the space shuttle of the ground and is more accurate than laser imo.

[BrooklynBravest]

BrooklynB, first of all I have to say your doing a good thing and I admire what your doing. Essential to community and all.

I wouldn't use it as a mill because a drill press isn't made for lateral load. Same goes for using as a vertical lathe but with a dead center you could lighten the lateral load. You should check with Grizzly about warranty for use as a mill. I did see the one with cross slide but thought it was for position and not transition but I could be wrong. It is a nice drill.

If you dont have an indicator then use a machinist square and the straightest drill bit you have. Chuck the drill bit and square the table nominal to drill bit and tighten up. If I needed optimum, I would level, use a transit and gauge blocks/square. I used a machinist square on my two drill presses. On my mill drill, I used a laser speed square ( no machinist square at the time) and double checked with a transit. Transit or alignment scope is whut got the space shuttle of the ground and is more accurate than laser imo.

Thanks! (To the first part, and for the advice)

I shot an email to grizzly addressing the concern we’ll see what they say. I doubt they build the headstock on the mill/drills differently.

They all use an R8 spindle but I assume the concern is the type of bearings used to support those?

[BrooklynBravest]

Grizzly tech said with confidence there is no issue using the machine for milling operations as far as the headstock is concerned. "With the R8 spindle, like all our R8 machines it is designed for lateral loads"

His concern was actually the weight on the table flexing it, and making cuts inaccurate.

I am going to throw a dial indicator on it and use my bodyweight to see if it flexes but for now im gonna order the XY table. See how that fits on the there before investing anything else and go from there.


Edit: I did my test on the table with id wager over 80 lbs of steel if not 100. Saw almost no deflection granted its a ****ty indicator.

One problem I do have though is its a 9/16" slow on the table, I have 9/16" slot T Nuts, and only two fit. The two slots near the column are fine the two at the front don't fit by a hair.

Am I supposed to use 1/2" hardware on a 9/16" slot or should I say something to grizzly about it?

[M J D]

It's probably a metric converted to inch thing. Is it just the top part that's a problem? I'm sure that table is stout enough for whatever you would be putting on there. If it was something that didn't sit flat and you tried to clamp it it could be an issue as it would on any table.

[BrooklynBravest]

It's probably a metric converted to inch thing. Is it just the top part that's a problem? I'm sure that table is stout enough for whatever you would be putting on there. If it was something that didn't sit flat and you tried to clamp it it could be an issue as it would on any table.

Looks like I’m a dummy and misread it used a 1/2” t nut

I have a 9/16 set so I’m gonna see if i can maybe shave these to work before spending another $65.

[Lis2323]

Looks like I’m a dummy and misread it used a 1/2” t nut

I have a 9/16 set so I’m gonna see if i can maybe shave these to work before spending another $65.

Better check. Nuts for 9/16” slots may be taller than nuts for 1/2” slots.

[M J D]

You may be able to get just the tee nuts that are 1/2" and still use the same size stud.

[BrooklynBravest]

You may be able to get just the tee nuts that are 1/2" and still use the same size stud.

Unfortunately 1/2" is when the 3/8" stud starts my kit is 1/2" stud.

Honestly it was $20 for 6 T nuts it would be ridiculous for me to spend the time making them fit to save $40 ill just sell the set I have and break somewhat even.

[BrooklynBravest]

Little project before work today for the collet set I bought.

[farmersammm]

Collets are nice, but be careful with them. You can mill fine, but don't plunge mill with them. The end mill will likely move on you. If you need to cut down into a pocket, ramping in is your best bet with collets. For me anyways, regular end mill holders work best for plunge milling.

[thegary]

Collets are nice, but be careful with them. You can mill fine, but don't plunge mill with them. The end mill will likely move on you. If you need to cut down into a pocket, ramping in is your best bet with collets. For me anyways, regular end mill holders work best for plunge milling.

I have never had a collet let a tool slip , ever. The only way I could see that happen is if the operator did not tighten the draw bar tight enough. By tight enough I mean 60-75 ft lbs. You can get away with a little more than snug with a tool that has a permanent R8 arbor but that is it. There are just too many situations where plung cutting to one extent or another is needed.