56 short hood

[BYW200]

I must say, you've got pressure on the piston. That must be 3/8" angle you got there that's bending. Hard to believe that #1 piston is that bad to get out, #2 valves look a lot rougher in that combustion chamber considering the looks of condition. This may sound silly, but what if you try pushing the piston out from the connecting rod end out the top being it's closer to the top of the cylinder?

[DavidR8]

One other option you might try is shrinking the piston. Flip the block over and put some pieces of dry ice in the underside of the piston. Assuming it’s a cast aluminum piston it may shrink enough to break free of whatever is holding it so tight.

I’ve done this to a stuck motorcycle piston and it worked like a charm.

A bit of torch work on the internal bore might also help.
Food for thought.


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[gmcdeadhead]

Have you tried smackin' it with a big hammer with the pressure still on it?

i tried that , only did some soft lights hammer blows, i dont want to blow out the cylinder ,

try pushing the piston out from the connecting rod end out the top being it's closer to the top of the cylinder?

once i get it loose from the top , i'll push it from the connecting rod end .
if i get some time today i'll mess with it, when its nice weather outside , farm work comes first

[duaneb55]

. . . but what if you try pushing the piston out from the connecting rod end out the top being it's closer to the top of the cylinder?

Good suggestion. Have done that before. Trick is to keep the rod straight and not damage it. May need to form a block of hardwood to fit the bearing end of the rod to press against.

[duaneb55]

Found the photos. I used a piece of 1/2" flat bar to press against. Piston didn't survive and I checked the rod against another to make sure it didn't bend. Block was a bust due to the rust damage. Would cost more to save it than it is worth.

[gmcdeadhead]

what if i drill a series of holes around the top of the piston to take it apart without screwing up the wall any more than it already is, like i said in an earlier post , i figure there can only be between 300-500 hours on this machine, sure would suck if the wall blew out of it from beating on the piston

[gmcdeadhead]

i have a 65 redface that im gonna use for parts , that motor spins freely , i was gonna keep that motor as a spare , but if this one gets screwed up , i guess i'll have to use that one

[duaneb55]

what if i drill a series of holes around the top of the piston to take it apart without screwing up the wall any more than it already is, like i said in an earlier post , i figure there can only be between 300-500 hours on this machine, sure would suck if the wall blew out of it from beating on the piston

Based on my experience with the engine pictured above, I'd say you'd have to have yours bored and sleeved as I predict the groove that is likely going to be where the piston ring is will be deeper than boring for the largest oversized can accommodate.

[BYW200]

Duane, those pictures you have are pretty much what I was thinking about, excellent shots of using the flat bar with the rod bolts removed.

[gmcdeadhead]

finally had some time to try to get the piston out, GOT IT , i kept it soaked all this time , and just beat the piston down with a wood block, when it got to be within one inch of the bottom i had to tear into the piston from underneath because the front main bearing block will prevent it from coming all the way out , cylinder looks pretty good , now when winter sets in, i'll ship it off to the machine shop and see what they say.

[milomilo]

Since you have put a lot of stress on the head studs, you might consider replacing them. Might be stretched some.