Ceiling Mounted Chain Hoist

[M J D]

Cut yourself a strip of 3/4" plywood 8-12" wide by 6-8'. Use 3/8" carriage bolts to mount track to plywood. Set the assembly up to ceiling and run 4 construction screws, 2.5-3" long into each truss intersection. It won't be as strong as mounting something above the truss but will be considerably stronger than simply putting a 1/4" lag into the bottom of the truss.

[Shootr]

I can't have any bolt or screw heads down in the c-channel or the trolley won't get past it. I have to use the channel hanger brackets.

I'll know for sure when I mark where all the joists are on the ceiling, but I believe the channel will tie into the shorter East/West joists close to where they tie into the first long N/S joist.


Again, I'm designing for the rare instances that may approach 300lbs - but 99% of any lift will 100lbs or so. (3000w generator, small I-beam art project, etc)

[danielplace]

I can't have any bolt or screw heads down in the c-channel or the trolley won't get past it. I have to use the channel hanger brackets.

I'll know for sure when I mark where all the joists are on the ceiling, but I believe the channel will tie into the shorter East/West joists close to where they tie into the first long N/S joist.


Again, I'm designing for the rare instances that may approach 300lbs - but 99% of any lift will 100lbs or so. (3000w generator, small I-beam art project, etc)

That would be so much better than under a long one. If you were in the ends of the ones T'ing into the other that would be pretty solid for what you are doing for sure. Multiple lags in each truss 24" apart would be great for putting the Unistrut up and hanging from it as I guess you wouldn't want to buy and install those main track hangers at every single truss.

How many main hangers are there total ?

I just looked and saw 4 total in 10 feet. Man I think maybe you could just put them 4 right in the trusses with the lag studs and skip that strut up top on the drywall. I don't think you need it. I mean it is only giving you like one more lag. Skip the upper one. Would look nice and clean with all thread straight to the all thread coupling against a fender washer right on the ceiling.

Maybe don't even use any all thread just use bolts. Bolt the hangers right straight into the coupling nuts. It would look real good.

[forhire]

Personally I'd avoid lag bolts. Yes, I'm using lags but they are a compromise... my attic is less than 12 inches where the yellow crane and hook are located. The lags are 5/8 or 3/4, I don't recall, and 8 inches long, going into douglas fir. The holes are pre-drill as specified and run in with a pneumatic impact gun. I don't recall what the pull out was but I was comfortable with it. I can lift a full drum of coolant which I'm sure exceeds my marked limit. I guarantee you no engineer or safety inspector would be happy seeing a crane lag bolted to the ceiling. I figure if I ever bring on employees I'll need to through bolt it and have it inspected.

I don't know what grade all-thread Unistrut recommends. I'm sure plenty of electricians use the hardware store variety and I've seen some scary big stuff hanging from 3/8 threaded rod. The engineer specifies it and the electrician installs it. Personally I'd use B7 threaded rod but it is likely overkill. You may be able to get bolts long enough especially if you use unistrut in the attic also.

I'd also put the track flush with the ceiling... you can never have enough head room.

[Shootr]

That would be so much better than under a long one. If you were in the ends of the ones T'ing into the other that would be pretty solid for what you are doing for sure. Multiple lags in each truss 24" apart would be great for putting the Unistrut up and hanging from it as I guess you wouldn't want to buy and install those main track hangers at every single truss.

How many main hangers are there total ?

I just looked and saw 4 total in 10 feet. Man I think maybe you could just put them 4 right in the trusses with the lag studs and skip that strut up top on the drywall. I don't think you need it. I mean it is only giving you like one more lag. Skip the upper one. Would look nice and clean with all thread straight to the all thread coupling against a fender washer right on the ceiling.

Maybe don't even use any all thread just use bolts. Bolt the hangers right straight into the coupling nuts. It would look real good.

Better pic of the install location. Other constraints I failed to mention includes the garage door and track. I only have 7" from the ceiling to clear the door when it's opened. The track is actually 10' long overall, so 4 of the hangers will be where your drawing shows them, and the other two will be right on the ends. The brackets will be lag bolted up tight against the ceiling drywall, and the c-channel clamped into them - so the bottom of the channel should only be 3-3/4" from the ceiling.

Should have all the parts and pieces by tomorrow - so hopefully this weekend it'll get done.

[danielplace]

Better pic of the install location. Other constraints I failed to mention includes the garage door and track. I only have 7" from the ceiling to clear the door when it's opened. The track is actually 10' long overall, so 4 of the hangers will be where your drawing shows them, and the other two will be right on the ends. The brackets will be lag bolted up tight against the ceiling drywall, and the c-channel clamped into them - so the bottom of the channel should only be 3-3/4" from the ceiling.

Should have all the parts and pieces by tomorrow - so hopefully this weekend it'll get done.

I had thought you mentioned Unistrut going against the drywall so I thought you were putting up uni strut to hang from. I guess you just meant the Unistrut track.
Lag bolts right in the brackets and against the drywall sounds good but you won't be able to go too tight or bracket will ruin drywall or punch though.

Need some 4" fender washers for between bracket and drywall. Lol.

Now to hit center of every one. They made the holes in brackets a bit large. That must be for misalignment of the lags. Lol.

[Shootr]

I had thought you mentioned Unistrut going against the drywall so I thought you were putting up uni strut to hang from. I guess you just meant the Unistrut track.
Lag bolts right in the brackets and against the drywall sounds good but you won't be able to go too tight or bracket will ruin drywall or punch though.

Need some 4" fender washers for between bracket and drywall. Lol.

Now to hit center of every one. They made the holes in brackets a bit large. That must be for misalignment of the lags. Lol.

This is just my conspiracy theory, but I'm guessing "unistrut" was invented as a universal support system for pipes, wire races, etc., and that's what it is known for mostly.

Then some genius discovered it made a great overhead track for industrial curtains - just had to develop wheeled trolleys - bang: an entire second income stream without a single modification to the original main component.

Mounting: I'll use a stud finder to narrow down where each joist is, then a small pick/awl to probe and find exactly where each is.

Drill one end for the pilot hole, tie a string and run it to the other end and tie it off for my straight line. Then drill the rest of the pilots, mount the brackets, and install the track.

Easy peasy

[Shootr]

They made the holes in brackets a bit large. That must be for misalignment of the lags. Lol.

I live and die by any and all oblong mounting holes!

[Shootr]

Well this was worth the price of admission!

[psacustomcreations]

Looks good. What are your thoughts on mounting to the circular plate?

[forhire]

Looks good. The unistrut made for a quick solution. The Nautilus is coming along nicely.

[steelsmith101]

Coming at this late but Unistrut makes track that is like 2-5/8" high , Its hard to find but the next time I need to put up a hoist I'am going to go with that. I used the 1-5/8X1-5/8 and welded 3X3X1/4 angle on top of it to but up along side the rafters in my shop space, drilled 1/2 holes though the steel and the wood of each rafter and put 1/2-13 bolts though it all.
works great when I need to pull the motor on a Cub Cadet, or pick up the front end of one.
Joe

[Shootr]

Still one of the handier additions to the garage! Makes loading up for a camp trip much easier on the back.

[BD1]

Coming at this late but Unistrut makes track that is like 2-5/8" high , Its hard to find but the next time I need to put up a hoist I'am going to go with that. I used the 1-5/8X1-5/8 and welded 3X3X1/4 angle on top of it to but up along side the rafters in my shop space, drilled 1/2 holes though the steel and the wood of each rafter and put 1/2-13 bolts though it all.
works great when I need to pull the motor on a Cub Cadet, or pick up the front end of one.
Joe

Actually unistrut has 3-1/4" high x 1-5/8".


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[FlyFishn]

Still one of the handier additions to the garage! Makes loading up for a camp trip much easier on the back.

Excellent work!

I just came across this thread.

I bought a Superwinch Terra 45SR winch about 4-5 years ago. I actually bought a Talon 18SR with the wireless remote for a recovery winch and utility winch, but it does not stop on a dime so as to be able to control loads so I ended up getting the small Terra and remote adapter harness for the purpose. I can't tell you how handy that has been. There is a lot of stuff I just couldn't do without a winch like that - and a wirelessly controlled one at that. Lots of stuff I do solo and having the winch around simply makes things possible, let alone be a back saver.

It looks like the ceiling mounted hoist you have works well for you. However, just a thought - if you run out of head room you can get by with ladders. Ive done that many times out of convenience and necessity, though a dedicated gantry crane type platform would certainly be better for obvious reasons. The ladder method has been used to hoist generators, 12gal fuel tanks, and outboard motors without issue.

This was from a couple years ago on my cross-country "migration" to our remote property.


The ladder is a Little Giant, I forget the model - Evolution, Revolution, something like that. It is a commercial grade of the kind you find at the big box stores. I want to say it is 21 feet extended. It was the middle of the 3 sizes at the time I got it. The ladder hangs far enough over top that it overshoots the other side. I lift up everything individually then once it clears the top I pull it in and set it down, move it up front, then repeat. That way the landing zone is clear for what ever else goes up.

(Yes, there is extra bracing inside the cap down to the bed floor/truck frame - no way the cap will hold all that alone).




And some motor rigging with the A frame ladder configuration. This was pulling the motor, same one I hauled up that season. Motors are stored in a building, not on the boats. From a maneuvering perspective it would be even easier to hoist from the boat house rafters but getting the motors over land to the other building, or floating them over to the dock, would be just as much of a PITA than yanking on the dock. So I yank on the dock.




Mechanical advantage and hoisting are wonderful things. With creativity and a winch you can move the earth.

[MinnesotaDave]

Mechanical advantage and hoisting are wonderful things. With creativity and a winch you can move the earth.

You're pretty close

[Shootr]

Remember kids, work smarter no harder...




No problemo...

[ronsii]

I'm all for working smarter.... but hydraulics makes things so much faster

Turn this:


Into this:


With this:

[12V71]

Remember kids, work smarter no harder...




No problemo...

Last time I saw a sheave like that was on a 400HP electric motor driving a gyratory rock crusher.

[Lis2323]

I'm all for working smarter.... but hydraulics makes things so much faster

Turn this:


Into this:


With this:

Did the scissor man lift already fall off the forks ???


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[ronsii]

Did the scissor man lift already fall off the forks ???


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Yeah.... I had Zid... Sid's twin brother operating it and told him to bring it across the lot... well he put it in 4th gear and floored it which was fine until he hit the brakes and it slid off the forks into one of the cans!!! After that I figured it would be safer if I didn't have him operate it with me in the extended reach basket

[Shootr]

Last time I saw a sheave like that was on a 400HP electric motor driving a gyratory rock crusher.

That'd be about right. On the heavy side we work with mines and gravel pits (the light side is bakeries and manufacturing).

[bigb]

Nice job! I looked at the unistrut trolley system too. My ceiling is LPIs spaced at 16" but if I recall my builder buddy told me that while a LPI has tremendous load bearing capabilities from the top I should not put much load on the bottom except for the ceiling material. This is kind of obvious when you look at how they are put together. I did fasten 2x8s across 6 of them with hooks to lift my camper shell using ratcheting load straps but the shell is pretty light. I may just build something supported from the floor. Incidentally, where I live at least (Pima County, AZ) there is no longer an added fire rating required for residential attached garages, just the normal ratings required in the rest of the house. According to NFPA garage fires are no longer common due to fuel injected vehicles with sealed fuel systems.

[Stick-man]

tag unistrut trolley