Paint.... What to go with?

[FlyFishn]

First off, I found a thread (linked right below) on here spanning quite a number of years but there are a lot of paint codes spelled out in the thread (spectacular info!)
https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthrea...is-Lincoln-Red

My question is what kind of paint/process to go with.

I have another thread going on a 1966 round top idealarc 250 here so that is the project.

Powdercoating has come up in a few places as being a good option. What I don't like about it is there are info labels/schematics on the inside of the wiring access door that I don't want to loose. So if I used a type of spray paint or brush on paint, in theory, I could retain the labels by protecting them.

I am not out for an absolutely perfect finish, but I don't want caked on paint that runs. I just want a nice finish that is durable.

Thoughts?

[John T]

The guy that painted mine used rustolium w/hardener
Came out good.

1961 btw.




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[FlyFishn]

The guy that painted mine used rustolium w/hardener
Came out good.

1961 btw.

Hey! Not to hijack my own thread... but that's a nice compressor. I'm looking for a 60gal or so. I've been browsing the used market, but I've seen those Quincy's at a few places and appear to be quite high-end compressors. They make screw compressors too.

The welder looks pretty good. Is the knob bare metal with clear coat? Or was that painted also?

[Welder Dave]

Keep relative info in one thread instead of multiple threads for basically the same thing.

[John T]

Keep relative info in one thread instead of multiple threads for basically the same thing.

Hey Dave why don’t you mind your own business.

You seem to be lately replying to every single thread with your infinite knowledge.

Why don’t you take a breather dude.

If you’d like to become a moderator why don’t you contact ZAP.

Somehow I don’t think that’s gonna happen.


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[John T]

Hey! Not to hijack my own thread... but that's a nice compressor. I'm looking for a 60gal or so. I've been browsing the used market, but I've seen those Quincy's at a few places and appear to be quite high-end compressors. They make screw compressors too.

The welder looks pretty good. Is the knob bare metal with clear coat? Or was that painted also?

The adjustment knob is bare metal I will try to dig up the thread where the guy restored the whole thing.

It was a few years ago but he did an outstanding job/took the whole thing apart polished every contact

Etc. etc.

I will find it it’s here somewhere he also details the paint he used.

The compressor I bought from Northern tool.

I’ve been very happy with it.
I will get you the information on that also when I get a chance.



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[smithdoor]

I use oil base paint
John T is right with the Rustolium
I use Rustolium a lot over years and has worked great
I if gasoline type welder automotive paint is better for outdoors. I does better job in sun light.

Powdercoating I have had fall off the metal in big chunks.

Dave

First off, I found a thread (linked right below) on here spanning quite a number of years but there are a lot of paint codes spelled out in the thread (spectacular info!)
https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthrea...is-Lincoln-Red

My question is what kind of paint/process to go with.

I have another thread going on a 1966 round top idealarc 250 here so that is the project.

Powdercoating has come up in a few places as being a good option. What I don't like about it is there are info labels/schematics on the inside of the wiring access door that I don't want to loose. So if I used a type of spray paint or brush on paint, in theory, I could retain the labels by protecting them.

I am not out for an absolutely perfect finish, but I don't want caked on paint that runs. I just want a nice finish that is durable.

Thoughts?

[Pipeliner]

Powdercoating I have had fall off the metal in big chunks.

That’s weird. Powdercoat I’ve dealt with is the hardest stuff I’ve ever seen to get off.

[FlyFishn]

Thanks for all the replies.

I am investigating automotive paint locally. I made a trek to NAPA for some other stuff today and talked with the guy there that knows paint. He said they may be able to cross-reference Sherwin Williams paint codes so I dug in to the thread I linked to in the first post. They were not able to pull up those codes. He did search with "lincoln welder" and it came up with 3 colors, one labeled "Lincoln Red". We are not able to see a code for any of them or get a sample. A pint of the paint is about $65-68, I forgot to write it down exactly. A quart is $118. Then the paint needs a reducer that is $30/quart (2 parts paint to 1 part reducer, I think... maybe I have that backwards - I've never mixed paint like this before).

There is a Sherwin Williams place on the east side of town that deals with auto paint. I will be over there tomorrow so I will see about stopping by.

At the very least I'd like to get a pretty darn close color match and have it be able to be applied with a sprayer. I'd rather not use aerosol/rattle cans of stock colors.

Powder coating may still re-enter the picture. The paint dude at NAPA said that good powder coat outfits can lift diagrams/info sheets. I will investigate that a bit.

When I made the mount for a big shortwave antenna on my truck (2.5" square tube about 30" long and a 1.25" diameter pipe about 18" long in an L shape) I paid $80 if I recall correctly. And that was in 2011. I would imagine all the panels for the welder would be quite a bit more than that - just by surface area alone even in the same date range's dollar worth. That would be magnified a bit in today's dollars. Even at ~$150 for paint and reducer plus a paint gun and regulator it might be a better deal just to get the paint gun + parts and do it myself. Then I can do other paint projects later on.

[JayWal]

That’s weird. Powdercoat I’ve dealt with is the hardest stuff I’ve ever seen to get off.

I agree... that stuff is generally a lot tougher than paint

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[Welder Dave]

Hey Dave why don’t you mind your own business.

You seem to be lately replying to every single thread with your infinite knowledge.

Why don’t you take a breather dude.

If you’d like to become a moderator why don’t you contact ZAP.

Somehow I don’t think that’s gonna happen.


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I'm guessing your response has to do with the fact you get another opportunity to show your machine off. FlyFishin already had a thread started about his newly acquired machine. Is there going to be a new thread for every single question he has about it? Most forums don't like multiple threads from the same person on the same topic. Never knew there was a limit on how often I could respond.

[smithdoor]

I know some powder coat is very hard. But I had some that just came off in big chunks.

When I buy industrial paint it is very hard and will last for ever.

There nothing like picking up can of paint and have job done in just few minutes.

Dave

That’s weird. Powdercoat I’ve dealt with is the hardest stuff I’ve ever seen to get off.

[FlyFishn]

Does anyone have a more recent paint code for Lincoln Red? Preferrably Sherwin Williams? What I have from the other thread is:

J22XXR16517P4337 - Red

That shows from 2006 for gallon sizes.

Im not sure that is correct?

[John T]

I'm guessing your response has to do with the fact you get another opportunity to show your machine off.

Sure. Why not? fly fishin is looking for help so, Stay tuned for some inside shots of my machine... in one of the "other" threads.

[John T]

Hey! Not to hijack my own thread... but that's a nice compressor. I'm looking for a 60gal or so.

This is the one I bought in 2017
Very happy with it. I added an hour meter (just because) and an auto drain.... along with filters/regulator etc etc.

looks like It went up a few bucks... but still a good deal.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...0475_200350475

.

[smithdoor]

Sherwin Williams will have all manufacturer color codes. You may need to contact a industry Sherwin Williams. Some Sherwin Williams stores do hire the best paint sales people.

Sherwin Williams can tell you the best paint to use. I purchased thousands of gallons Sherwin Williams for painting for steel hangar doors.
I paid a high price but the paint work great

Dave

Does anyone have a more recent paint code for Lincoln Red? Preferrably Sherwin Williams? What I have from the other thread is:

J22XXR16517P4337 - Red

That shows from 2006 for gallon sizes.

Im not sure that is correct?

[FlyFishn]

Does anyone have a more recent paint code for Lincoln Red? Preferrably Sherwin Williams? What I have from the other thread is:

J22XXR16517P4337 - Red

That shows from 2006 for gallon sizes.

Im not sure that is correct?

I made it over to the auto-specialty Sherwin Williams in town here and the paint codes from the other thread come back to a custom mix from the Garfield Heights, OH location (store code 4337 - numbers in the paint codes). Those are not orderable codes for Sherwin Williams to "mix", it is specific to the Garfield Heights location. I am thinking of calling them to see what I can get that way, but it might be too much hassle and the whole process might be too extravagant and high-priced anyway.

[Welder Dave]

Some automotive paint can be custom mixed and put in aerosol cans. It is much better than most standard spray paint. Might be a way to get a better paint job for less $$$. Prep is the most important step whether it's welding or painting. You try and rush or cut corners is when you run into problems. You could make it look all old and beat up like it's been through a battlefield with some bullet hole stickers and Miller Killer decals but like new on inside. When people come over, say look what I bought. While they're shaking their heads in disbelieve you should them how nice it welds. Like a sleeper hot rod.

https://www.amazon.com/Realistic-Bul.../dp/B07JBM3MLY

https://lincolncontrolplates.com/inc...il/36152/32007

[FlyFishn]

Rust Oleum makes a Farm & Implement line and their Massey Ferguson Red is a pretty close match as best I can tell from the digital comparison. The down-side is that no one stocks it in a quart size container. I can get either a spray/rattle can or gallon at Tractor Supply, or order 2x quarts at Southerlands (min quantity for an order). So it looks like the gallon is going to be the option - then spray about 4-5 coats. Rust Oleum won't be as high-quality as automotive paint, but considering the cost and the rest of the stuff I need (reducer, hardner, primer, etc, etc) I am not sure it is worth the investment. If I have a gallon of this stuff I will have plenty left over for a re-paint at a later date (if the paint is still viable...).

[FlyFishn]

Well let me ask everyone this...

What are your thoughts on this color - Ford Red? Compared to the Massey Ferguson Red in the previous post. The Massey Ferguson looks closer to the image color from my picture, but I am thinking the modern Lincoln Red is brighter - maybe closer to the Ford Red here???

[timberjack]

Well, im new here but like your choice with massey ferguson red, its the same color im going with. ha. for my welder . and probably some tool boxes.

[FlyFishn]

Just an update to the paint subject here:

So far I have been putting down primer with a pneumatic spray gun. The Rust Oleum Farm & Fleet Red Oxide Primer is what I am using. I was spraying it with a 3:1 ratio of 3 parts paint to 1 part mineral spirits. Today I changed it a bit to 4:1 to hopefully reduce the runny'ness of the paint. I ran in to drips and runs on the panels. It was a bit of work to fix them, and some I didn't fix and can still be seen if you look close in the right spots.

Part of the runs and drips is knowing the spray gun I have. I changed the pattern setting from a fan/blade to circle today and that seemed to help - combined with the thicker mix I didn't get drips/runs. I will spread the pattern out a bit to widen/flatten the circle pattern as I was getting some "streaks" where the paint in the middle was thicker than the edges. I am hoping the wider pattern will take care of that.

So the key tip is to try a 4:1 to 3:1 ratio. This is with a 1.8mm nozzle.

I have not tried to spray the top coat/massey red yet. That paint will be mixed with the Majic hardner from Tractor Supply so that may change the dynamics of the paint further.

[FlyFishn]

The 4:1 ratio of paint to mineral spirits is too thick with the hardner added. I went back to a 3:1 and that is better, I think.

For what it is worth, the ratio of the hardner (Majic brand from Tractor Supply) is 1/2 teaspoon per ounce of paint. That is what I am mixing (derived from 8oz hardner per gallon of paint). The mix of the mineral spirits to thin the paint has been working fine with the hardner as best I can tell. The only change up with the hardner was I felt I needed a more diluted/thinner mix hence switching back to a 3:1 ratio.