Offer good till the end of August.
25% off all products; individual clamps, single bar clamps or entire kits. Go to www.highlandtool.org and when you check out, type in WELD23 in the code area.
Highland Tool and Restoration
www.highlandtool.org
Offer good till the end of August.
Highland Tool and Restoration
www.highlandtool.org
Nice product. What is the max thickness it will clamp? If annealed, will it still bend after bent or will it need annealing?
Nice product for sure . I am no body man but is the copper backer all that important with welding sheetmetal ? I have done some butt welding of sheet metal and do not really see it as needed. I do agree that it would make it nicer by flatenning out the weld on the back and obsorbing heat but you need to use a spot weld techneque anyway or the metal will shrink and or warp anyway.
They are designed for typical automotive sheet metal gauge, but I'm sure they would clamp up to a 1/4" thick. The annealed copper will continue to bend after bent. One obviously needs to use caution, as in bending any metal. I have only used it on mild curves and it flattens back easily. IF you are doing sharp bends, I would suggest heating it as you make the bend.
Highland Tool and Restoration
www.highlandtool.org
Well, I ordered a set. it may wit in my tool box a while, but it will likely be useful.
Using copper backing (paddles, smashed plumbing pipe, etc.) has been a mainstay in the art of butt welding or patch panel welding of all sorts. It does just what you describe, in addition to eliminating wire mis-feed (back-side porcupine look), it does provide a good platform for the weld as well as help to dissipate the heat and avoid blow-through. Of course, the technique of using alternating "spot" welds is assumed, but once closer than an inch, I have made successful stitch welds with ease. I know and observe plenty of craftsman that can get their panel gaps so small and uniform that these clamps are not necessary. This is for the handy man, weekend warrior, occasional restoration guy, mostly. How do you think I came up with the idea??
Highland Tool and Restoration
www.highlandtool.org
I realize copper backers are old main stays. I have used them in all sorts of different ways over the 47 years I have been in welding. I guess I just do not see much need for them in this case . I would not want to keep the clamps in place for the whole weld anyway so I see no need of them. I am no body man for sure and maybe a expert will weigh in. IMHO I would keep those type of clamps in place only until the panel was sure not to move and that would be only a few spot welds per foot. I believe you will find they will be difficult to remove if left in place for the full weld and might even cause buckling because of not allowing the gap to shrink as it would normally.
I've done probably a miles worth of butt welds over the years. No two panels are alike. Different metals (old and new) cause challenges. Imperfect cut lines cause inconsistent gaps. Multiple angles and shapes (floor pans) require precise alignment. The average hobbiest has 47 minutes of experience, not 47 years. Try them when you receive them. I stand by my product. I have tried the copper paddle on a handle, usually couldn't reach. I tried the magnetic backers. Magnet disturbs the weld and not annealed to follow a contour. These are not a gimmick.
Highland Tool and Restoration
www.highlandtool.org
I have not ordered any so it will be hard for me to try them. I am almost 66 and have no intention of doing anymore body panels so it would be a wast anyway. I have limited energy anymore so I have learned to choose wisely what I spend it on. Not that it is a wast of time to others. It is just not good use of my time at this stage in life. I can see limited use of your tool , like in short sections with poor fitup . If I am wrong then I give my apology for my questioning of its use. I am sure there are a few expert body panel guys on hear that will eventually weigh in.
Nice product (with the copper backer) But not a new idea... I've had a set of these clamps for years.
I've never had a need for a copper backer.... But I can see where it would be handy if your doing some kind of fancy bends or something.... probably pretty rare.
Miller 211
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1961 Lincoln Idealarc 250
HTP 221
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Sorry, thegary, I got you mixed up with someone else that did order a set. The generic versions from HF or Eastwood are quite popular in the hobby. This is just an improvement on them that incorporates the benefit of a copper backing, integral to the clamp, which had been missing. I'm almost 64, and I am on the down side of using them myself!!!
Highland Tool and Restoration
www.highlandtool.org
John, I would suspect that on this forum that I would find more resistance and reluctance to these clamps. Yes, the standard clamp is pretty ubiquitous to the market, but there is nothing like these out there. There has been a great response on many of the other car restoration sites as well as pre-Covid swap meets. This was developed because I am not a professional welder, and I wanted something that I could integrate into my clamps.
Highland Tool and Restoration
www.highlandtool.org