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Thread: Just saved a SA-250 D3 152 from the scrapyard, need some help with it

  1. #26
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    Re: Just saved a SA-250 D3 152 from the scrapyard, need some help with it

    Quote Originally Posted by ronsii View Post
    LOL!!!! 'A touch' yeah, I've told people just a tiny bit of ether will help... they call up a few hours later telling me how it's almost running and it'll 'run on ether' -- so I show up and there's 3-4 empty cans of ether on the ground and two sets of jumpers running to the batteries...
    Yeah, I've seen that too. I guess you just have to know what's going on. One other thing I've seen with diesels that have done a lot of sitting is fuel racks in the pump stuck in the stop position (or full fuel in 2 stroke Detroits), I cant say on the op's engine, because I have no experience with those. But it is a possibility.

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  3. #27
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    Re: Just saved a SA-250 D3 152 from the scrapyard, need some help with it

    Perkins can be a little finicky to bleed but talked to an experienced mechanic who said a a small shot of ether after hand priming with no bubbles wouldn't hurt. Small shot is 1 second not 1 can. A lot of people don't pump the hand primer enough. After the bubbles are gone you need to pump about 20 times more.

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  5. #28
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    Re: Just saved a SA-250 D3 152 from the scrapyard, need some help with it

    Quote Originally Posted by Welder Dave View Post
    Perkins can be a little finicky to bleed but talked to an experienced mechanic who said a a small shot of ether after hand priming with no bubbles wouldn't hurt. Small shot is 1 second not 1 can. A lot of people don't pump the hand primer enough. After the bubbles are gone you need to pump about 20 times more.
    Believe me, I pumped it like it owed me money. I haven't gotten back to it yet. Battery is charged though, so I will probably fool with it again sometime this week. Going to bleed the injectors just to be sure I've gotten all the air out.

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  7. #29
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    Re: Just saved a SA-250 D3 152 from the scrapyard, need some help with it

    I have one of these there is a real fine screen in the sediment bowl MAKE sure it is clean there is also another screeen in or by the electric fuel pump you have to take out a small Phillips screw in the middle of the lid there is a Oring a small one my experience has taught me to change that oring they leak and makes it hard to prime

  8. #30
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    Re: Just saved a SA-250 D3 152 from the scrapyard, need some help with it

    I finally got back to it and made a little progress. Bled the injector pump and fuel filter again, just to be sure. Then I bled the injectors, twice. Stale diesel really has a stench of it's own. The lines were full of air and stale diesel. Then I started cranking. It started puffing a little more, and a little more, and a little more, then a lot, then it finally hit a good lick, caught, and would have run on it's own if I'd held the button down another half a second. Mashed it again, it popped right off and ran. Oil pressure gauge showed close to 80 psi oil pressure, which dropped a little as it started warming up. Blew a whole lot of garbage out of the exhaust pipe. I didn't run it long, but did run it long enough to figure out it isn't charging the battery, the idler isn't working, there's no welding current output, and no auxiliary AC output. Also not sure if the temp gauge or sending unit are any good. Engine felt warm enough that the gauge should have registered, but it never moved.

    The commutator and AC slip rings are clean. The brushes are all in very good shape and making good contact. I'm suspecting that either the oil pressure switch is bad, or the alternator is bad, or both. I assumed it was the alternator last night and so took the existing Prestolite unit off. Bought a one wire Delco to replace it for $60 or so. Didn't get it on last night, so I spent some time reading up while the wife was gone this morning getting groceries. That lead me to wondering if a bad oil pressure switch might have caused all the problems rather than just some of them. Also wondering if I should check the reed switch. The panel that the welding lugs are connected to is somewhat bent. It's bent enough that it might have damaged the reed switch.


    Quote Originally Posted by Leogl View Post
    I have one of these there is a real fine screen in the sediment bowl MAKE sure it is clean there is also another screeen in or by the electric fuel pump you have to take out a small Phillips screw in the middle of the lid there is a Oring a small one my experience has taught me to change that oring they leak and makes it hard to prime
    Sediment bowl is brand new. The old one kept clogging when I was trying to drain the tank, plus it started leaking after I took it apart repeatedly. No electric fuel pump. This one has a four bolt mechanical lift pump with a manual primer arm.

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  10. #31
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    Re: Just saved a SA-250 D3 152 from the scrapyard, need some help with it

    Glad to hear you've got it running.
    My two cent would be to focus on finding the problem with the welding section and when that's fixed work on the alternator and auto idle (reed switch etc).
    Since you question the temperature gauge carefully monitor the temp during testing.
    Check wiring diagram for your machine for fuses or circuit breakers.
    Next since you don't have AC output, flash the fields. Search the net for instructions or a service manual if you can find one.
    Next would be testing the field diode bridge. Again net search or manual.
    Keep us posted and good luck.

  11. #32
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    Re: Just saved a SA-250 D3 152 from the scrapyard, need some help with it

    Quote Originally Posted by KC51 View Post
    Glad to hear you've got it running.
    My two cent would be to focus on finding the problem with the welding section and when that's fixed work on the alternator and auto idle (reed switch etc).
    Since you question the temperature gauge carefully monitor the temp during testing.
    Check wiring diagram for your machine for fuses or circuit breakers.
    Next since you don't have AC output, flash the fields. Search the net for instructions or a service manual if you can find one.
    Next would be testing the field diode bridge. Again net search or manual.
    Keep us posted and good luck.
    I have a service manual(for a slightly newer machine though), IM407, and a Perkins manual. There's no schematic on either of the doors, and I'm not 100% certain the schematic in IM407 is correct. It appears to be. Only fuse I could find was good. The bridge rectifier is good, but I may swap it anyway. Going to email lincoln and see if they'll send me the correct schematic.

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