Project weld a nut to the Transmission pan to add a drain bolt.

[N2 Welding]

Looking to weld a washer and nut to the inside of the tans oil pan then another washer on the outside so the bolt will have a nice flat surface to seat against on the 95 EB Bronco. Has any one done this using mig .023?

What's your thoughts on doing this so it don't burn through yet won't leak. I was thinking of just spot welding every thing little tacks at a time until it's fully welded all the way around inside and out then go over it afterwards with a solid bead to add strength like a second pass.

[Weld_]

I've done similar things with Tig. I think spot welding would probably be a bad idea as you will be more prone to possibly having a leak somewhere. Also why not just weld a nut on the outside and use a copper crush washer. It would be a lot easier to do it that way. IMHO

[Oscar]

I did it to the oil pan on my F150. You can use any wire really. I didn't even have to think about it, just weld it up.

[mla2ofus]

1/8" black pipe coupling and a plug. Just attach it to the side of the pan near the bottom and to the rear of the pan so it can't get snagged by something unless you're backing up.

[12V71]

I've done similar things with Tig. I think spot welding would probably be a bad idea as you will be more prone to possibly having a leak somewhere. Also why not just weld a nut on the outside and use a copper crush washer. It would be a lot easier to do it that way. IMHO

Yep, weld the nut on the outside where you can weld all the way around easily, use a flange head bolt with a copper or tight fitting plastic washer. I've repaired several engine oil pans that way.

[mla2ofus]

1/8" black pipe coupling and a plug. Attach it to the rear of the pan on the side and next to the bottom.

[N2 Welding]

I'm worried about burning through the thin gauge pan with .030 wire. I suppose I could weld the nut to the outside of the pan facing towards the back of the pan so it won't get snagged on anything.

[N2 Welding]

What about drilling the hole through the pan? Should I use a step bit?

[Keith Merrell]

Seems like a good idea. I would be worried about having the pan warp and maybe leaking?

[ronsii]

Are you going to weld this 'hot' or pull the pan? If doing it hot I'd weld a nut like was suggested then you can step bit it through from the underside afterwards.. it's gonna be messy when you punch through

[N2 Welding]

I made a paper cone and box taped it to the chuck before drilling the hole. I did not make a mess of oil all over my driveway nor did the oil get all over my drill. The pan was removed from the truck and has been scrubbed clean using purple power. I put the pan back on the truck for the night. No need in keeping the pan off so critters, cats or anything else can get up in the transmission overnight while it’s uncovered.

I thought about getting a stepped drill bit right about the time Harbor Freight was closing. That will have to wait until they open back up in the morning. The nut will be welded to the pan on the table. I believe if I go slow spot welding it I shouldn’t have to worry too much about warping. I can always clamp it to the table as I usually do with all my projects to stave off excess warpage. I like the idea of welding the nut to the inside of the pan as this would be less prone to being knocked off from rocks etc if/when I do finally get around to wheeling it. However as pointed out getting a good weld all the way around the nut might prove to be a challenge.

I believe the pan is covered with a galvanized coating. Will that effect the ability to get good penetration with out too much heat or burning holes through the pan? I always tend to procrastinate projects like this because of all the unanswered questions I conjure up from my lack of experience.

[Gump]

I’d do the coupling and plug mla2ofus suggested.
I’d also build a skid plate to protect the pan while off-roading

[M J D]

Go to the auto parts store and ask for a transmission drain plug kit. B&M makes a good one for 10$ or so.

[N2 Welding]

Go to the auto parts store and ask for a transmission drain plug kit. B&M makes a good one for 10$ or so.

Both autozone and Oreileys had young kids that had to ask other employees that all said “no we don’t have anything like that”. I got tired of asking around at the auto parts stores.

[ronsii]

Both autozone and Oreileys had young kids that had to ask other employees that all said “no we don’t have anything like that”. I got tired of asking around at the auto parts stores.

Yep, pretty much what I've found around here with ANY parts stores... if you don't know THEIR part number and ALL other pertinent info about something you want it's a crapshoot if you're gonna walk out of the place with it...

[M J D]

B&M 80250 or needa part 65128

[mcspeed]

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[Josey]

Before trying any welding It must be really Thorley cleaned. I took a cracked sump cover of a tractor
into a welding and machine shop to get welded. They didn't want to do it. Said it has been soaked in oil all its life
And could never be properly cleaned. But of course the tractor sump cover was a lot heavier than your cover.
They advised to try a hot pressure washer

[MinnesotaDave]

Before trying any welding It must be really Thorley cleaned. I took a cracked sump cover of a tractor
into a welding and machine shop to get welded. They didn't want to do it. Said it has been soaked in oil all its life
And could never be properly cleaned. But of course the tractor sump cover was a lot heavier than your cover.
They advised to try a hot pressure washer

...that's weird, I've welded a bunch of stuff that had been in oil while in use.

[N2 Welding]

I planned on cleaning it thoroughly with Acetone prior to welding.

Here is the nut / washers / bolt I paid $2.00 for thinking I could use in case I could not come up with A drain plug kit like the B & M trans drain plug kit.

This is a 1/2" x 20 fine thread set I got for the project.

The idea was to sandwich the pan between the two washers and snug it up tight then weld it in place. Maybe use some RTV after its welded so I dont have to worry about leaks.

[ronsii]

So... are you welding the nut on the inside of the pan? if so then all you need is a nylon washer to seal the bolt.... maybe...

[N2 Welding]

So... are you welding the nut on the inside of the pan? if so then all you need is a nylon washer to seal the bolt.... maybe...

Not sure yet. I found a Dorman drain plug kit at Oriley’s I’d have to pay and pick up via will call at the Stockton warehouse. It’s only $6.00 but has the plastic washers. Thinking I would like to replace the washers with aluminum or copper crush washers but don’t know where to get those. I’m also thinking the nut and bolt will be more heavy duty than the drain plug kits sold at the auto parts stores.

decisions decisions decisions.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../65128/4529396

[ronsii]

Not sure yet. I found a Dorman drain plug kit at Oriley’s I’d have to pay and pick up via will call at the Stockton warehouse. It’s only $6.00 but has the plastic washers. Thinking I would like to replace the washers with aluminum or copper crush washers but don’t know where to get those. I’m also thinking the nut and bolt will be more heavy duty than the drain plug kits sold at the auto parts stores.

decisions decisions decisions.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../65128/4529396

depending on the size HF sells the copper washer kits( I have a few ) otherwise I think NAPA usually sells copper washers for brake line connections but they probably want more for one than the whole HF kit

[N2 Welding]

depending on the size HF sells the copper washer kits( I have a few ) otherwise I think NAPA usually sells copper washers for brake line connections but they probably want more for one than the whole HF kit

Thanks and yeah it figures HF would be cheaper. I’ll ask while I’m at Napa getting the 5 gallon bucket of transmission fluid. Shoot I still need a new filter and pan gasket.

I had planned on just reusing the fluid that was drained out. That is why I cleaned the oil pan prior to drilling the drain hole. I emptied the metal bits from the big green oil drain pan before pulling the drill bit out and letting the oil drain. I still have yet to drain the torque converter to see if it was low on fluid.

[CAVEMANN]

I've used the drain plug kits on a few transmissions, the bolt is fairly thin & can split at the root of a thread if not careful. You also have the thickness of the nut inside that prevents complete draining, I finally started brazing a nut on the outside & preferred that, just make sure you check whatever you use for a plug to make sure it seats flat & will seal as I have seen nuts that weren't threaded straight, or use a pipe fitting or coupling. On thin steel a step drill is always my preferred since it won't grab.