Project weld a nut to the Transmission pan to add a drain bolt.

[Weldordie]

My concern was running with a good charger unplugged.

Would you explain this, further? I don't understand your meaning. Thanks.

[ronsii]

Would you explain this, further? I don't understand your meaning. Thanks.

I think he means... My concern was running with a good charger (alternator)unplugged.

[N2 Welding]

I think.... fuel pressure on those is around 40-60psi??? HF has a generic fuel pressure test kit I have used on mine.

I'll just hook up a clear fish tank line to the fuel rail shrader valve and cycle the key several times to see what kind of volume I'm getting at the injectors. If not much volume I'll investigate fuel related problems if not stick with electrical sources. It is looking like electrical. New plugs, cap and rotar and still doing same thing. I figgured it wouldn't be as easy as changing plugs and rotor/cap. One cylinder has no light or spark while another keeps the timing light lit constantly. It's just flickering fast like it's flashing on for every cylinder that sparks. I'll change some wires from one cylinder to another first to rule out if the problem follows the plug wire or not.

[N2 Welding]

I think he means... My concern was running with a good charger (alternator)unplugged.

Yes This ^

[N2 Welding]

I’m actually smelling unburned raw fuel through the exhaust while running. Indicating it’s not a fuel delivery problem. I’m leaning towards the pick up coil in the distributor.

[M J D]

Could be EGR issues as well.

[N2 Welding]

Could be EGR issues as well.

Can this be confirmed without replacing the EGR valve?

[MinnesotaDave]

Can this be confirmed without replacing the EGR valve?

On old style EGR valve can be tested just by seeing if it holds vacuum.

Then if it does, at idle pull a vacuum on the EGR valve and the motor should instantly run like crap (or at least worse).

If it doesn't, then it's stuck.

Some people "test" them by removing, cutting an aluminum solid gasket from a pop can, reinstalling and seeing if the problem is corrected.

[N2 Welding]

I just ordered a set of factory wires from a Ford dealer out of Amarillo through Amazon at about $25 savings.

Cyl #5 had hardly any spark when checked with a timing light and some of the boots were cracking at the ends where they slip over the plugs. I know it's a long shot but definitely worth a shot. I just hate having to wait a week or more for the wires to arrive. To know before doing any other diagnostics. Don't like running it like this cause I dont want to burn up the cats. So it'll sit parked once again.

[ronsii]

I’m actually smelling unburned raw fuel through the exhaust while running. Indicating it’s not a fuel delivery problem. I’m leaning towards the pick up coil in the distributor.

Just so you know the fuel system on my 5.8 95' worktruck WILL run very rich when the fuel pressure is not up where it should be... so make sure you got close to the the spec. pressure.

[N2 Welding]

Ok fuel pump and filter are about 2 years old. Did not change out psi regulator though.

[ronsii]

Ok fuel pump and filter are about 2 years old. Did not change out psi regulator though.

On mine it has the two fuel tanks and there is a common issue where the fuel pump/s will let fuel backfeed and this in turn lowers the psi getting to the injectors and creates a rich condition. The regulator is an easy change to little bolts and an oring make sure you depressurize the shrader first if it holds pressure... does your start right up after sitting a while or over night?

[N2 Welding]

Yes fires right up everytime. Never an issue

[N2 Welding]

I saw a duel tanked f-series in the junk yard and instantly got to thinking it would he cool to do a dual tank mod by adding the front mounted 17 gallon tank. That idea was quickly shot down after a few FSB members chimed in with comments that it wont fit.

[ronsii]

I saw a duel tanked f-series in the junk yard and instantly got to thinking it would he cool to do a dual tank mod by adding the front mounted 17 gallon tank. That idea was quickly shot down after a few FSB members chimed in with comments that it wont fit.

A little frame lengthening and you'd be good

[N2 Welding]

I'm going to have to make a hard pass on that idea. Perhaps I can make a stow away fuel can holder that allows me to deploy it for fueling up the bronco on the trails. Basically holds the fuel cans upside down. I'd have a on off valve to keep from spilling fuel all over the place including on me. It's just an idea. I liked the added second tank idea as it would add redundancy for fuel pump issues and give me more travel distance at the flip of a switch.

[ronsii]

I'm going to have to make a hard pass on that idea. Perhaps I can make a stow away fuel can holder that allows me to deploy it for fueling up the bronco on the trails. Basically holds the fuel cans upside down. I'd have a on off valve to keep from spilling fuel all over the place including on me. It's just an idea. I liked the added second tank idea as it would add redundancy for fuel pump issues and give me more travel distance at the flip of a switch.

You should get under there and see just how much room you got for any kind of tank.... you could always find a smaller tank from some other ford car or something that could be adapted to the ford two tank system... the redundancy thing is always good... the problem is it also adds other things that can fail My old 77' f150 ex cab had two tanks... but just an engine mechanical pump.. so when I'd run one tank dry I'd better be going at least 45 mph level or you'd run out of speed before the fuel got primed in the system My 88' f250 excab had a pump in each tank plus a pump on the frame rail right beneath the drivers seat... had the rear pump go out once and just switch tanks and was good to go!!! but had the frame pump go out a couple times... both times it left me on the side of the road

[N2 Welding]

Adding other type of tanks came up in the 19 post discussion I started about it over at FSB forum https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threa.../#post-7326999

[12V71]

You should get under there and see just how much room you got for any kind of tank.... you could always find a smaller tank from some other ford car or something that could be adapted to the ford two tank system... the redundancy thing is always good... the problem is it also adds other things that can fail My old 77' f150 ex cab had two tanks... but just an engine mechanical pump.. so when I'd run one tank dry I'd better be going at least 45 mph level or you'd run out of speed before the fuel got primed in the system My 88' f250 excab had a pump in each tank plus a pump on the frame rail right beneath the drivers seat... had the rear pump go out once and just switch tanks and was good to go!!! but had the frame pump go out a couple times... both times it left me on the side of the road

There is the possibility of a larger aftermarket tank. I had a "Desert Dynamics" tank in my '72 Blazer that was nearly 40 gallons and came with it's own skid plate.

[N2 Welding]

There is the possibility of a larger aftermarket tank. I had a "Desert Dynamics" tank in my '72 Blazer that was nearly 40 gallons and came with it's own skid plate.

That was mentioned in the discussion on FEB and how they don't think they make them anymore.

[N2 Welding]

On old style EGR valve can be tested just by seeing if it holds vacuum.

Then if it does, at idle pull a vacuum on the EGR valve and the motor should instantly run like crap (or at least worse).

If it doesn't, then it's stuck.

Some people "test" them by removing, cutting an aluminum solid gasket from a pop can, reinstalling and seeing if the problem is corrected.

I like the idea of using a soda can as a plate to seal off the egr valve. It'd work as long as the valve does not protrude below the egr housing mounting surface.

[ronsii]

There is the possibility of a larger aftermarket tank. I had a "Desert Dynamics" tank in my '72 Blazer that was nearly 40 gallons and came with it's own skid plate.

I forgot all about those almost did that years ago

[12V71]

That was mentioned in the discussion on FEB and how they don't think they make them anymore.

That sucks, Maybe a bigger OEM pickup tank that fits? or maybe use an Excursion tank? Just bombing ideas.

[ronsii]

502 error: post fix

[MinnesotaDave]

You should get under there and see just how much room you got for any kind of tank.... you could always find a smaller tank from some other ford car or something that could be adapted to the ford two tank system... the redundancy thing is always good... the problem is it also adds other things that can fail My old 77' f150 ex cab had two tanks... but just an engine mechanical pump.. so when I'd run one tank dry I'd better be going at least 45 mph level or you'd run out of speed before the fuel got primed in the system My 88' f250 excab had a pump in each tank plus a pump on the frame rail right beneath the drivers seat... had the rear pump go out once and just switch tanks and was good to go!!! but had the frame pump go out a couple times... both times it left me on the side of the road

My '77 Ford had the dual tanks too - manual selector behind the seat where I could just reach it when the fuel ran dry in tank 1.

Drove that truck all over the country when in the air force, it's been waiting for me to rebuild the truck since the 90's...