Project weld a nut to the Transmission pan to add a drain bolt.

[duramax-rob]

Cover the oil spill with fine kitty litter. Then, saturate the litter with lacquer thinner. When it's dry just sweep it up, and save it to use again. This method works so well you won't be able see where the oil was. If you should decide to use this method inside of a garage, be careful to avoid anything that might cause ignition of the thinner, or you might remove the garage along with the spill.

and don't forget to light the thinner so you can get an instant suntan and roast some hot dogs at the same time in a FLASH! NOT!

[danielplace]

Brick the floor.

That will come out of the concrete 100% or so damn near it won't be a eye sore any longer. It works.

Spread the kitty litter and get a brick or block and grind the kitty litter into the concrete. It is so easy and it takes it away completely.

[N2 Welding]

This could also be a wiring issue directly related to the solenoid or it's harness... not necessarily the solenoid itself... there were also problems with the diodes/connections inside the tranny(just above the 2valve block)

PIP code. I used to replace tons of ignition modules along with the pickup coil in the distributor. Pretty easy to do. Pull the distributor. Knock out the roll pin. Pull the gear off. Then take the shaft out to replace the pickup coil. Reverse process to put it all back together. Don't forget a new ignition module. Your stalling could be EGR related. Take the EGR valve off and clean the carbon out of it.

Yeah I need to do a thorough diagnostic of the wiring at the plugs going to the transmission. I have other issues but don’t think they are related. For example the steering wheel is floppy at the column from the tilt mechanism. Doubt it has anything to do with this so I’m saving repairing any minor things like that until I get this thing back on the road and is known “IMO” to be worthy of further investments.

I had several different posts about it at fullsizebronco in a thread I created where a moderator there was posting images of service write ups for testing different circuits for power voltages etc. It was a lot of info and I didn’t know where to start as there are so many different things it could be.

I think the front tranny seal is leaking so it will eventually have to come out and I’ll end up having to fab up a trans bracket to mount to my floor jack so I can pull the transmission with less physical strength. I hear these E4OD’s are pretty big and heavy trani’s. I struggled doing the clutch on the 98GT when I did that. So I know better than to try and lift that trans with out hydraulic assistance.

One thing at a time. Fix the stall issue before I go doing other less important time consuming very difficult repairs.

Could the PIP error be related to the stall issue? I was thinking the Pick up coil would only cause issues with runnng the engine and it either runs or it doesn’t. I can clean the egr valve but doubt this is an issue but I suppose anything is possible. Last thing I want to do is go on a wild goose chase and potentially create more problems while attempting to diagnose and fix the stalling issue. KISS method.

I do believe the torque converter is locking up and causing the engine to lug until it stalls out when placed in Drive. I did the transmission drain plug because I know this was not the last time the fluid would have to come out and wanted an easy way to drain the fluids into a 5 gallon bucket so I could easily pump it right back in once the repairs/procedures were complete with out loosing more than a few drops of oil or making a huge mess “lesson learned on the pan gasket palm to face”

Cover the oil spill with fine kitty litter. Then, saturate the litter with lacquer thinner. When it's dry just sweep it up, and save it to use again. This method works so well you won't be able see where the oil was. If you should decide to use this method inside of a garage, be careful to avoid anything that might cause ignition of the thinner, or you might remove the garage along with the spill.

This sounds good. Would this work with the diatencious earth from Napa auto parts? If not what brand kitty litter? I’d like to try dry soak up before soaking litter with more chemicals.

[N2 Welding]

This was recently posted on the Bronco Forum. Worth a shot since it's a very easy diagnostic procedure

[CAVEMANN]

I put the felpro on with out any silicone rtv per instructions that came with the gasket and filled the transmission with Mercon. It looks much better and not leaking like a waterfall.

I still have the problem with it stalling the engine when shift lever is placed in drive. So at least now it has a new filter and oil. :/

Moving forward now I'm hoping anyone that might of ever dealt with a E4OD issue that causes the engine to stall when the truck in placed in drive but you could still put it in reverse or L1 to get going and shift to L2 then drive and so on as the vehicle speed increased?

Also does anyone know of the type of Acid that is suppose to be good for removing oil stains from concrete driveways etc?

This is my new driveway

Attachment 1716865

Check the wiring haness going to the transmission for chaffing, I had this on an ambo once, the harness had a chaffed spot & one of the wires had worn thru the insulation, it happened to be the wire that controlled converter lockup, I'm guessing for whatever reason that the torque converter is locked, really the only logical thing I can think of.

[N2 Welding]

Check the wiring haness going to the transmission for chaffing, I had this on an ambo once, the harness had a chaffed spot & one of the wires had worn thru the insulation, it happened to be the wire that controlled converter lockup, I'm guessing for whatever reason that the torque converter is locked, really the only logical thing I can think of.

update1 Ok thank you, I'll go unplug that plug and see if that solves the stalling issue. I've had a dead battery lately and had to use the starter feature on the battery charger. I'm wondering if this could of created this problem from over-boosting the battery with the charger to get the truck started.

Thanks for the advice.

Edit: I un-plug the connector on the driver side at the shifter sensor and the truck won't even start. So I'm going to plug that back in and unplug the solenoid plug on the passenger side if there is one and see what it does then.

update 2: So I plugged the shift sensor connector back in and unplugged the solenoid sensor connector on the passenger side and it started. Then I went for the kill and put it in Drive and did not die. At least now I know the Torque converter is not completely locked up and the whole transmission don't have to come out to fix the stalling problem. At least I hope not any way.

Thank you for clearing up that I can remove just the purple/yellow wire from the shift sensor connector plug. I'm seeing light at the end of the tunnel. It'd be sweet to finally be able to drive this again after about a year of being parked. My New GF wants to drive it as well. She has this thing for '92 F150 I don't know why but I'm always telling her a '96 would be better IMO because of OBDII. So let me eat some lunch and go back out there and try this again with the purple/yellow wire removed from the equation and see what she does.

[MinnesotaDave]

Check the wiring haness going to the transmission for chaffing, I had this on an ambo once, the harness had a chaffed spot & one of the wires had worn thru the insulation, it happened to be the wire that controlled converter lockup, I'm guessing for whatever reason that the torque converter is locked, really the only logical thing I can think of.

On some chevys this can happen too. The electrical part fails and locks the torque converter while driving and doesn't unlock it when you stop.

It feels like stopping a stick shift without using the clutch or taking it out of gear. Hops and chugs and shakes as you stop, then dies.

It was about $35 the last time I changed one (year ago). Wasn't awful to change, few hours.

[Weldordie]

This sounds good. Would this work with the diatencious earth from Napa auto parts? If not what brand kitty litter? I’d like to try dry soak up before soaking litter with more chemicals.

Diatomaceous earth is not the same as kitty litter (bentonite clay), but may absorb oil same as clay soaked in thinner. My experience is with clay, only... I've used litter/thinner method for decades inside and outside. Spread litter over oil spill, and with a 4' length of tubing, siphon thinner out of the can, until litter is soaked. Let dry, and sweep up... easy, peasy. We've seen the before pics... how about an "after" pic when it's all clean?

[N2 Welding]

Diatomaceous earth is not the same as kitty litter (bentonite clay), but may absorb oil same as clay soaked in thinner. My experience is with clay, only... I've used litter/thinner method for decades inside and outside. Spread litter over oil spill, and with a 4' length of tubing, siphon thinner out of the can, until litter is soaked. Let dry, and sweep up... easy, peasy. We've seen the before pics... how about an "after" pic when it's all clean?

I'll definitely give an after pic. Hopefully I do it right and it turns out nice and purdy again.

[N2 Welding]

UPDATE with results from removing purple/yellow wire from the equation. I plugged the shift solenoid connector back in and pulled the purple/yellow wire from the shift position connector. Now the truck does not stall when placed in Drive. So now I'm thinking I should pull the PCU/ECU and investigate for bad capacitors. I watched a couple of different youtube videos on replacing bad capacitors in the ECU/PCU. With any luck the ECU is the problem and I'll be able to repair the ECU/PCU by replacing any and all bad Capacitors.

[N2 Welding]

I just took it for a quick little test drive. So far the Truck does not stall out every time I put it in drive but some times it does. It also lugs the engine down when slowing and coming to a stop. I'm frustrated, it's getting hot outside and I need a beer.

[Josey]

...that's weird, I've welded a bunch of stuff that had been in oil while in use.

My apology. I left out crucial information.. The sump cover I had was of a tractor. and it was cast iron

[N2 Welding]

A couple of the guys at FSB forum are convinced it's the ECU / PCU so I took it apart for a little inspection and did not find what would appear to be obvious to me. There is a little corrosion that may be causing an issue IDK. What do you pro's think?

[N2 Welding]

Here is a couple of close up's from the video. I'm wondering if that pad under that thing that looks like a resistor or something that I'm pointing to in the video is actually a flat capacitor that is leaking under the resistor looking thing. Old age and Cataract replaced lenses makes it hard to see small objects like this. Time to invest in a nice illuminated magnifying glass for small parts and object inspections.

[CAVEMANN]

I think that thing you referred to as a resistor is a diode, as far as the mosfets, that may be heat sink compound like silicone grease, nothing jumps out at me , but that doesn't mean anything with electronics, the leaking capacitor is probably bad. I will add that ECU or PCM failure is usually the result of a sensor. good luck finding the issue, is it just the the shutting down when going into gear or is there another issue. The problem I mentioned with the chaffed wiring would be evident going into ANY gear except neutral and park.

[N2 Welding]

Only time it stalls is when shifted into D. The engine runs fine. No misses or anything out of the norm.

[ronsii]

Do you have any kind of code reader? even one of those usb ones that hook to a laptop that run ~15 bux on ebay may be able to read and show status of the lockup command so you can see if it is being called to come on by the ecu.... I know my autoxray older reader will read and show 1995's and earlier.

I don't see anything in the pics either??? if there is corrosion under the shock pad for the big diode that could be a problem... however I would guess it is just some sort of artifact of the pad reacting/bubbling with the conformal compound they used to seal the board...

The 'only in drive' thing would indicate that the ecu is doing it's thing... IE... not some fluke wiring short causing the lockup. We just got slammed again at work so I haven't really had any time to look in the transtech books to see what was going on with the 95's and any common issues...

[N2 Welding]

I'm going to try and get a new magnifying glass and have a better look at the corrosion under the diode thing. Here is even a closer look zoomed in on my ph. It looks like there might be some type of component leaking where it looks to be a hole on the board for an electronic lead to pass through. If my eyes were better it wouldnt be so hard to determine what is causing the corrosion on that part on the board. When you get time ronsii, I appreciate it

I do have an ODBI scan tool. The only thing I've used it for is to read stored error codes. I'm not sure how to use it to read live data if at all possible. It's an Inova scan tool.

[12V71]

I'm going to try and get a new magnifying glass and have a better look at the corrosion under the diode thing. Here is even a closer look zoomed in on my ph. It looks like there might be some type of component leaking where it looks to be a hole on the board for an electronic lead to pass through. If my eyes were better it wouldnt be so hard to determine what is causing the corrosion on that part on the board. When you get time ronsii, I appreciate it

I imagine that corrosion is possibly from a leaking capacitor? Had a truck with a Series 60 Detroit in the shop today doing all sorts of weird stuff and showing contradicting codes, Green corrosion in the main ecm plug from the truck end. Scrubbed it out as best as possible with a stiff toothbrush and blasted the plug with water from a high pressure air syphon gun. It's behaving now.
If you have blown capacitor, likely that wont help.

[ronsii]

I'm going to try and get a new magnifying glass and have a better look at the corrosion under the diode thing. Here is even a closer look zoomed in on my ph. It looks like there might be some type of component leaking where it looks to be a hole on the board for an electronic lead to pass through. If my eyes were better it wouldnt be so hard to determine what is causing the corrosion on that part on the board. When you get time ronsii, I appreciate it

I do have an ODBI scan tool. The only thing I've used it for is to read stored error codes. I'm not sure how to use it to read live data if at all possible. It's an Inova scan tool.

IF it is corrosion use a brush like 12V mentions and some isopropyl alchol(90 or 99 percent if you can get it but 70 or even 50 will work) and it should 'easily' be removed along with showing the affected traces... if the traces look discolored or eaten then this IS a problem and could be causing your issues(with the truck I mean) I usually bu the cheapy 'chip brushes' from HF.. when they go on sale it's a pretty good deal for the boxes of 1 inchers at 36 qty per box!!! even the 2 and 3 inch ones are decent but I use a lot of the 1 inch ones for dong stuff like cleaning pc boards carbs, etc... whatever needs a bit of fine scrubbing.

Personally I don't think that is corrosion... but then again I don't have it in front of me to see I mean I guess it could be if they used some product that is eventually chemically deteriorating or something like that and is reacting with the copper traces or the diode itself...

Although the more I think about it that pad under the diode could have shielded the conformal coating from covering that area and provided a place where moisture could... if it got inside the ECU...interact with the traces...!!! so I guess the first order of business is to find out if it really is corrosion

[N2 Welding]

Doing brakes on an Altima early today when I get home. Can I plug the ecu back into the wire harness with out tucking it back into the firewall to get the truck to move out of the driveway with out messing up the ecu?

[N2 Welding]

So get this. I cleaned the area that looked like green corrosion to me with Alcohol, Q Tips, old Tooth brush and wooden tooth pick. Put the computer back in the truck and now it works exactly like it should. I still have not put the Purple/Yellow wire back in the connector on the drivers side that goes to the shift position sensor. I'll get to that later but I think cleaning the corrosion fixed the problem. Yay! I'm going to cross my fingers it's fixed and it don't start acting up again once I put the Purple/Yellow wire back in the shift position sensor connector thing.

[CAVEMANN]

The corrosion could well be conductive & allowing a current path, much the same as a dirty battery.

[ronsii]

If this does solve the issue you probably should try(carefully) to remove what you can of the pad under that big diode.... then... get some conformal coating or just clear laquer and cover the area so's moisture won't start doing it again... because eventually it will

[N2 Welding]

If this does solve the issue you probably should try(carefully) to remove what you can of the pad under that big diode.... then... get some conformal coating or just clear laquer and cover the area so's moisture won't start doing it again... because eventually it will

I was wondering if that pad is there as a ESD or EMP "lol" protectant of sorts.