Lube for bandsaw gears

[bigb]

I have an old Dayton 4X6 bandsaw (just like the HF), will be opening it up to change the lube as I have never changed it. Not sure what is the best lube to use, pretty sure there is a brass or bronze gear in there. Lots of differing opinions out there, was looking at this ISO 460 spec synthetic: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-54.../dp/B007UU9V8A what are you using?

[DavidR8]

Right or wrong, I just use 90wt gear lube.

[Louie1961]

+1 90 weight gear oil

[smithdoor]

It is a SAE 140 gear oil.
Last place I found this on shelf was Tractor Supply but I purchased at a Vons.
It is a very common oil used in manual transmission.
Most auto supply store will have this oil.

I have own both Grainger and Harborfreight 4X6 saw.

The Grainger saw was use as a back saw 5 days a week for 15 to 20 years until it was part of deal. The only item replace was a new 1/3 HP motor.

Dave

I have an old Dayton 4X6 bandsaw (just like the HF), will be opening it up to change the lube as I have never changed it. Not sure what is the best lube to use, pretty sure there is a brass or bronze gear in there. Lots of differing opinions out there, was looking at this ISO 460 spec synthetic: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-54.../dp/B007UU9V8A what are you using?

[tapwelder]

I have always used 90 wt. Never even noticed any wear inside. It's not that pickey, just keep it lubed. You probably won't do it again unless it leaks and you have to change seals.

[albrightree]

I have about 50 fraction HP gearboxes in my facility, and many come in with this in them : Mobil SHC 634, Circulating, ISO 460, 1qt. , looks like its a more expensive version of what you posted. I have a 30 year old horizontal band saw, and I have never changed the oil, only once did I add it. It was after somebody moved it on a pallet laying down, and the oil leaked out the vent plug. If you don't see any gold flakes in the oil(worn brass gear, the worm is usually steel), and dont have any leaks, I wouldn't pull it apart to drain oil. just top it off. Any of the shelf gear oil 80/90w should be fine for your saw, and probably cheaper than the stuff your looking at. The one main difference is the gear oil is gonna smell worse if you spill it. I hate the sulfur smell, and some how it always gets on me , and that's all I can smell for the rest of the day.

good luck

[scsmith42]

Lots of good advice above. If it were me, I'd either use a high grade synthetic 140 or 90 weight oil. In warmer climates such as Arizona or S. Cal, I'd lean towards the 140. Colder climates I'd go with 90 weight.

Lucas makes an excellent product for this.

[whtbaron]

Lots of good advice above. If it were me, I'd either use a high grade synthetic 140 or 90 weight oil. In warmer climates such as Arizona or S. Cal, I'd lean towards the 140. Colder climates I'd go with 90 weight.

Lucas makes an excellent product for this.

Other way around... if your shop gets really cold the 90 weight is going to turn to snot, but he's in Ariz. so I don't see that being an issue. I doubt heat will ever be an issue in a saw compared to something like a truck diff or trans.

[scsmith42]

Other way around... if your shop gets really cold the 90 weight is going to turn to snot, but he's in Ariz. so I don't see that being an issue. I doubt heat will ever be an issue in a saw compared to something like a truck diff or trans.

You might want to re-read what I wrote.

140Wt for warm climates, 90 wt for colder.

If you really think that "the other way around" is better, then I need to go back to school to relearn about oil viscosities....

Having said that, for really cold climates a third option would make more sense, as opposed to just 90wt versus 140.

What do you use up in your area for an application such as this?

[smithdoor]

Arizona gets really cold like 115°
I seen 90 some manuals and 140 in other manuals.

The saws I have own I only check the oil leave never change the in 20 years.

The only time it oil is when a employ put saw in the upright and check oil that maybe a oil change as all oil is on floor.

Dave

Other way around... if your shop gets really cold the 90 weight is going to turn to snot, but he's in Ariz. so I don't see that being an issue. I doubt heat will ever be an issue in a saw compared to something like a truck diff or trans.

[whtbaron]

You might want to re-read what I wrote.

140Wt for warm climates, 90 wt for colder.

If you really think that "the other way around" is better, then I need to go back to school to relearn about oil viscosities....

Having said that, for really cold climates a third option would make more sense, as opposed to just 90wt versus 140.

What do you use up in your area for an application such as this?

Sorry.... my brain fart, not yours. Mine just has 90 wt. in it.... I still don't see this as being a very demanding application as oils go. Right now most of my equipment is in a heated shop so winter doesn't affect it much. When I did have things out in the unheated shop and it was -40, I'd say condensation was a bigger issue from the temperature swings on the metal than oil viscosity.

[Leogl]

I recently rebuilt a bandsaw and I put synthetic gear lube in it and it sure made a difference lot quieter

[smithdoor]

This is simple 90W or 140W.
If gets hot use 140W or very low temperature use 90W.

I hope you found the oil.

Dave

I have an old Dayton 4X6 bandsaw (just like the HF), will be opening it up to change the lube as I have never changed it. Not sure what is the best lube to use, pretty sure there is a brass or bronze gear in there. Lots of differing opinions out there, was looking at this ISO 460 spec synthetic: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-54.../dp/B007UU9V8A what are you using?

[bigb]

Thanks for all the help. I'm going to open it up this weekend.

[smithdoor]

Remember put in upright position so oil flows out on to floor. That is how my employees check the olil
My self I put saw in down position so oil say in the saw

Dave

Thanks for all the help. I'm going to open it up this weekend.

[CAVEMANN]

I use 90 or 140 wt, and will throw a good finger full of #2GL SLICK 50 TEFLON GREASE between the gear teeth. Another thing some of these saws were known for was the worm & pinion not being properly center d & teeth clearanced, I don't remember the fix but you can find info on tuning these saws on youtube.

[mechanic416]

My 4x6 the brass gear is almost shot and the seal leaked out all the oil. So I just packed it with bearing grease and will run it till it dies.

[tapwelder]

Only time I ever noticed wear was when I packed mine with bearing grease. Totally destroyed the gear. Glad Jet is not far from my shop. Otherwise without oil mine never wore.

[smithdoor]

I would just replace the ball bearing with a seal ball bearing.
It is low cost and fast
Most time it is a 6203 and it is use ever where.
I would buy 10,000 for $0.54 each

Dave

My 4x6 the brass gear is almost shot and the seal leaked out all the oil. So I just packed it with bearing grease and will run it till it dies.

[henry42]

I once had a HF 4x6 and upon getting it new I drained the Chinese lube and replaced it with 140 wt. Ran it like that for years without any issues. No idea what the original lube was but it sure smelled bad.

[el bob]

This is what I have run since 2013 in a Wilton 3410 7x12. I had the same question and did similar research back then.

Mobil Oil SHC 634 Synthetic Gear Oil, ISO 460, SAE 140
32oz $20.06 at McMaster-Carr P/N 2158K66
https://www.mcmaster.com/2158K66

[bigb]

This is what I have run since 2013 in a Wilton 3410 7x12. I had the same question and did similar research back then.

Mobil Oil SHC 634 Synthetic Gear Oil, ISO 460, SAE 140
32oz $20.06 at McMaster-Carr P/N 2158K66
https://www.mcmaster.com/2158K66

Just so happens that is exactly what I ended up doing Bob. Also when I opened it up the gears were in excellent shape and the previous owner even drilled and tapped the cover for checking the level, so I made up a dipstick. I cleaned the sump, refilled with SHC ISO 460 and applied a very thin layer of blue silicone to the gasket and re-assembled. It should be good for the rest of my life!

[el bob]

Just so happens that is exactly what I ended up doing Bob. Also when I opened it up the gears were in excellent shape and the previous owner even drilled and tapped the cover for checking the level, so I made up a dipstick. I cleaned the sump, refilled with SHC ISO 460 and applied a very thin layer of blue silicone to the gasket and re-assembled. It should be good for the rest of my life!

That is a good idea on the dip stick. The gearbox on my 7x12 leaks every so slightly and slowly. I ordered and received a new gasket years ago, but found the cover was a little warped and causing the gasket to be extra tight in some areas and loose in others. Facing that gearbox cover is on the "roundtoit" list, not very high up. That bandsaw is a useful machine. Mine has that extra bolt towards the top as well. Using it for a dipstick point sounds good to me.