Wiring Plasma to 240v

[Adios Pantelones]

Sorry if this has been covered but my search didnt come up with anything.
I have a TD 38xl that is currently wired for 120v. The manual recommends 30a service @120v. It does state that a 20a can be used but only up to a certain setting. My shop currently only has 15a 120v outlets. I do have a 3 wire 30a 240v plug that is used for my welder. So my questions:
1. The manual states it already has 12ga wire so just cut off the plug, install a 240 plug and flip the internal switch to 240. So when I go from 120 to 240 does the wiring go from hot, neutral, ground to 2 hots and neutral?

2. Since I will be sharing a plug with welder and wanting to avoid plugging/unplugging. ..is the some type of transfer switch that I can put upstream of the current plug so that I can direct current to the machine I'm working with rather than chase cords around everytime I switch machines?

3. I assume if my sub panel can handle it and 12ga wire was ran to the 15a outlets that I can just upgrade breakers and outlets to make it all at least 20a. Is this correct?

[danielplace]

Sorry if this has been covered but my search didnt come up with anything.
I have a TD 38xl that is currently wired for 120v. The manual recommends 30a service @120v. It does state that a 20a can be used but only up to a certain setting. My shop currently only has 15a 120v outlets. I do have a 3 wire 30a 240v plug that is used for my welder. So my questions:
1. The manual states it already has 12ga wire so just cut off the plug, install a 240 plug and flip the internal switch to 240. So when I go from 120 to 240 does the wiring go from hot, neutral, ground to 2 hots and neutral?

2. Since I will be sharing a plug with welder and wanting to avoid plugging/unplugging. ..is the some type of transfer switch that I can put upstream of the current plug so that I can direct current to the machine I'm working with rather than chase cords around everytime I switch machines?

3. I assume if my sub panel can handle it and 12ga wire was ran to the 15a outlets that I can just upgrade breakers and outlets to make it all at least 20a. Is this correct?

It goes from
hot-neutral-ground for 120 volt -to-
hot-hot-ground for 240 volt

I would do what you planned with 240. Forget 120. Just parallel two 240 outlets on the one feed if the use is noncoincidental so you can leave them both plugged in and ready to work. If your alone it will be fine as no way to load both up at same time. It isn't really code but nothing unsafe about it whatsoever.

[Adios Pantelones]

Cool, thanks

[Brand X]

If you leave the 120 volt plug on the 38xl and make 240 adapter to that makes the most sense. I have owned 3 of them and always set them up that way.

[danielplace]

If you leave the 120 volt plug on the 38xl and make 240 adapter to that makes the most sense. I have owned 3 of them and always set them up that way.

It does seem like good idea as long as you never forget to flip the switch after using it on 120 and plug it back in the 240 and smoke it.

[Brand X]

It will just flash a code.

[danielplace]

It will just flash a code.

Well that is a plus. Lol.

Beats the heck out of the magic smoke. That smell just lingers to remind you for ever.

[Adios Pantelones]

The 120 plug has seen it's better days already so I'll just cut it off. Although there's no chance of anyone using the machine but me there is a chance of the wife or kids finding the adapter and plugging in another 120v appliance to 240.
I still have to get it up and running as well. I bought it at auction for $75. So far it turns on, AC light comes on, gas light is on. No DC light and it will only strike an arc for a split second intermittently. Looking at the bag of TD electrodes and tips that came with it and think I may have the wrong ones. Also the ceramic gas ring is burnt pretty good. It came with 9-6501 tips and 9-6006 electrodes. All the info I can find says I should have 9-6501 tips and 9-6506 electrodes. Is this correct? What is the difference between the 6506 and 6006 electrodes?
Not sure if this bit of troubleshooting says anything but with all tips and electrodes installed I get nothing but an intermittent spark and no DC light. With all tips and electrodes removed I can get spark and the DC light is on. I have ordered a new set of tips, cups and electrodes so I'll see how it works when they get here.

[Brand X]

9-6506 are bigger.then 9-6006 I know the 9-6006 was used in the little torch that came on the air-cut 15c..

[Adios Pantelones]

9-6506 are bigger.then 9-6006 I know the 9-6006 was used in the little torch that came on the air-cut 15c..

Thanks, new consumables and cups are supposed to be here today. Fingers crossed. If nothing else it cost $75 and kept me busy dinking around the shop for a few days which my wife says is a good thing since I'm not bugging her while she's crafting

[Adios Pantelones]

Thanks for the info! Got the consumables in and it works great as far as I can tell. 1st time owning one but for $75 it seems like a good machine

[ccawgc]

You can't mix 65xx and 60xx consumables. from your description your electrode is touching the nozzle and causing a short circuit. This will shut DC light off right fast.
The pak-master 38XL is a single pcb unit and the pcb is obsolete.
If you are going to use the 6500 series consumables. the electrode, swirl ring and nozzle all have to be 6500 series. The black retaining cap can be 6000 series.
very common problem was to put a 6500 series tip and a 6000 series nozzle in the torch then they can't figure out why it stopped working and the DC light won't come on. The other problem is bent electrodes touching the nozzle.
This is an older plasma and it will smoke if you apply 230 volts and have it wired for 115 volts. The current machines will give a line voltage fault and not power up.
Send me a PM if you can't get it working. Get a good volt meter and i can walk you through a few cover off tests. Because they are dangerous don't like to post them here.

[Adios Pantelones]

You can't mix 65xx and 60xx consumables. from your description your electrode is touching the nozzle and causing a short circuit. This will shut DC light off right fast.
The pak-master 38XL is a single pcb unit and the pcb is obsolete.
If you are going to use the 6500 series consumables. the electrode, swirl ring and nozzle all have to be 6500 series. The black retaining cap can be 6000 series.
very common problem was to put a 6500 series tip and a 6000 series nozzle in the torch then they can't figure out why it stopped working and the DC light won't come on. The other problem is bent electrodes touching the nozzle.
This is an older plasma and it will smoke if you apply 230 volts and have it wired for 115 volts. The current machines will give a line voltage fault and not power up.
Send me a PM if you can't get it working. Get a good volt meter and i can walk you through a few cover off tests. Because they are dangerous don't like to post them here.

Thanks for the info. It is up and running with the new consumables. Is there a difference between the performance of the 6000 vs the 6500 series? I also need to order a new shield cup and get one that's OEM if possible. The made in China kit I ordered from Riverweld came with a 6003 shield cup. Don't know if it makes a difference or Is just made wrong but it will not screw down far enough to contact the PIP. Luckily the old cup still works for now. I need to take some measurements and see what the difference is. Everything appears the same to the naked eye.

Also do you know if there's a stand off shroud or guage for the PCH 25 torch? Haven't been able to find one yet. My hands aren't as steady as they used to be.

[Brand X]

The 6501 nozzles sometimes work with the aftermarket cups, most times the 6500 nozzles do not. If you use the real factory 9-6003 cup you will not have any issues with the PIP

[Bob-O]

Ok guys, you got me confused, wouldn't you wire a 240 plug and jump off it with a 110 plug? What did I miss?

[danielplace]

Ok guys, you got me confused, wouldn't you wire a 240 plug and jump off it with a 110 plug? What did I miss?

I see what you mean. 240 receptacle and 120 volt plug.

Sorry I lost you at first. Adios posted and I had ah ha moment. Exactly what he meant.

Can't hurt nothing with that.

[Adios Pantelones]

Ok guys, you got me confused, wouldn't you wire a 240 plug and jump off it with a 110 plug? What did I miss?

I think what you are saying is build a 240 to 120 adapter. That is an option with this machine. My issue is that if I ever left it laying around or forgot to unplug it the wife or kids are very likely to plug a 120 appliance into it. I'm not going to take that chance. The 120 plug was shot anyway so I just cut it off and put a 30a 240 clamshell on it. My other option was to install 20a plugs and breakers on my 120 circuit. I already have 12ga wire so it could easily be done. But you are then limited to 20a on the machine rather than the full 30. And I have the compressor on the same circuit so cutting while the compressor kicks on is a pretty big draw.

[danielplace]

I think what you are saying is build a 240 to 120 adapter. That is an option with this machine. My issue is that if I ever left it laying around or forgot to unplug it the wife or kids are very likely to plug a 120 appliance into it. I'm not going to take that chance. The 120 plug was shot anyway so I just cut it off and put a 30a 240 clamshell on it. My other option was to install 20a plugs and breakers on my 120 circuit. I already have 12ga wire so it could easily be done. But you are then limited to 20a on the machine rather than the full 30. And I have the compressor on the same circuit so cutting while the compressor kicks on is a pretty big draw.

Your missing what he is saying. Lol. Like I didn't at first. Lol.

Now that you have a 240 plug on the machine. Make a 240 receptacle with a 120 plug. That they can't find and hurt anything with. Nothing will fit it and if it did it would a 240 device in 120 power.

[Bob-O]

Sorry let me start over, I really meant to say 240 volt receptacle and come out of it with a 110 volt receptacle side by side. Then op could plug into a 240 receptacle with one machine leaving it pugged in and plug another 120 volt machine into the 120 volt receptacle and leave it plugged in. Or did I miss the boat all together.

[danielplace]

Sorry let me start over, I really meant to say 240 volt receptacle and come out of it with a 110 volt receptacle side by side. Then op could plug into a 240 receptacle with one machine leaving it pugged in and plug another 120 volt machine into the 120 volt receptacle and leave it plugged in. Or did I miss the boat all together.

If you were to carry a neutral out there then you could use it with one leg of the 240 to get a 120 receptacle. Normally a welder will only have two hots and a ground so no way to split off a 120 volt. If you were going to wire for it you would want to just wire it properly with circuit for 120 and another one for 240.