ESAB Heliarc 352 tig welder

[Kevin_Essiambre]

Never mind 4043. Get your hands on 4943 Hobart Weld Metals. Shovelon will fill you in on the metallurgy. It melts a few degrees lower than all aluminum alloys you want to join. It makes you feel special early on. It doesn't depend on dilution for strength. If I sound like a Parrot, forgive me. I understand enough to know it works. 5356 is another product you want in your arsenal.
I started with 10 LBS of each 1/16", 3/32", & 1/8" I have refilled the 3/32" a couple times. Aluminum filler you want bigger diameter than steel or stainless. Each "dime" chills the puddle to give it strength it wouldn't have.

Good to know going forward.... its not like the package is going to last very long anyway!

[Kevin_Essiambre]

I would ditch the zirconiated tungstens...they can't be used on DC and aren't better (for the stuff you're talking about) than 2% Lanthanated or any of the trimix styles like E3 which work for everything. You can use pure for aluminum with that machine, but there really isn't any reason to when there are better alternatives.

I don't *currently* plan on using this welder for anything but AC tig welding... and with so many damn types I said screw it and got what Google results gave me as the best for a transformer machine for aluminum. Also, it's not like its going to last forever... I'm sure I'm going to waste at least half the first time I try welding.

Also if you need an 18 series torch for higher amperage you're going to want larger diameter tungstens as an option...especially on AC. I'd suggest some 1/8" 2% Lanthanated as an alternative. 200A is about the max you'd want to use 3/32 on DC and maybe 175A on AC.

I only wanted to buy the tig torch once, seeing as how it's a $300 torch. I also figured if I can master welding with a heavy torch while learning, then if I do decide to buy a smaller one, it will be like a reward lol. I don't plan on welding at 350 amps all the time, although it will be nice to be able to crank it up without worry...

I was going to order a package of every size, but considering how expensive that would be, I decided to hold off. I picked 3/32 also based on a Google search, although for learning maybe I should have bought the cheaper, smaller stuff... regardless, I don't see it lasting long enough to make a difference.

I rrally appreciate your input, as well as the others input. I will be using this info for my next order of welding supplies.

[shovelon]

Never mind 4043. Get your hands on 4943 Hobart Weld Metals. Shovelon will fill you in on the metallurgy. It melts a few degrees lower than all aluminum alloys you want to join. It makes you feel special early on. It doesn't depend on dilution for strength. If I sound like a Parrot, forgive me. I understand enough to know it works. 5356 is another product you want in your arsenal.
I started with 10 LBS of each 1/16", 3/32", & 1/8" I have refilled the 3/32" a couple times. Aluminum filler you want bigger diameter than steel or stainless. Each "dime" chills the puddle to give it strength it wouldn't have.

Ditto on the 4943. This silicon based filler flows rather nicely. It is similar to 4043 but with just enough magnesium to keep it in the 4000 series category of fillers without the risk of intergranular corrosion under heat cycles. Because of the added magnesium it does not need base metal dilution for strength like 5356 or other 5000 series fillers. Now you need 4000 series fillers for alum weldments that will be heat treated and aged. 5356 on the other hand with the high amount of magnesium will create intergranular corrosion if subjected to heat treat or even sustained high service temps.

5356 on the other hand is a high strength filler in the as welded condition, and anodizes much better for a good color match.

[G-ManBart]

I don't *currently* plan on using this welder for anything but AC tig welding... and with so many damn types I said screw it and got what Google results gave me as the best for a transformer machine for aluminum. Also, it's not like its going to last forever... I'm sure I'm going to waste at least half the first time I try welding.

I only wanted to buy the tig torch once, seeing as how it's a $300 torch. I also figured if I can master welding with a heavy torch while learning, then if I do decide to buy a smaller one, it will be like a reward lol. I don't plan on welding at 350 amps all the time, although it will be nice to be able to crank it up without worry...

I was going to order a package of every size, but considering how expensive that would be, I decided to hold off. I picked 3/32 also based on a Google search, although for learning maybe I should have bought the cheaper, smaller stuff... regardless, I don't see it lasting long enough to make a difference.

I rrally appreciate your input, as well as the others input. I will be using this info for my next order of welding supplies.

That all makes sense. Like almost anything technical you can go crazy doing comparisons with this stuff. If you get some 3/32 and 1/8 2% lanthanated tungstens you'll be able to tackle pretty much anything you'll even consider trying for quite some time. 1/16 can be handy for thinner stuff and I like that size for doing drills like welding on the edge of 1/8" thick aluminum, but you can get close to that with a sharp point on a 3/32. It's not scientific, but I think the trimix tungstens like E3 and the various equivalents (usually purple or lime green) hold a point slightly better than 20% lanthanated, but it's a very small difference if it's even real and not my imagination.

I've had really good luck with Midwest Tungsten Service who sells on both eBay and Amazon and very reasonably priced. I don't see any difference between their tungstens and those from some of the bigger names like CK, HTP, etc...pretty much everybody imports them from China and none are made in North America. I think China and Austria might be the only two places now.

[Willie B]

That all makes sense. Like almost anything technical you can go crazy doing comparisons with this stuff. If you get some 3/32 and 1/8 2% lanthanated tungstens you'll be able to tackle pretty much anything you'll even consider trying for quite some time. 1/16 can be handy for thinner stuff and I like that size for doing drills like welding on the edge of 1/8" thick aluminum, but you can get close to that with a sharp point on a 3/32. It's not scientific, but I think the trimix tungstens like E3 and the various equivalents (usually purple or lime green) hold a point slightly better than 20% lanthanated, but it's a very small difference if it's even real and not my imagination.

I've had really good luck with Midwest Tungsten Service who sells on both eBay and Amazon and very reasonably priced. I don't see any difference between their tungstens and those from some of the bigger names like CK, HTP, etc...pretty much everybody imports them from China and none are made in North America. I think China and Austria might be the only two places now.

I've had several opportunities to buy old stock tungsten. It is in every case, someone liquidating an estate. I'd guess people steal from their employer the boxes of tungsten, stack them on a shelf until death. Even Airgas doesn't stock that many tungsten.

Usually what's offered is thoriated. It works great, but some argue there is a radioactive component in them.

I have a dedicated bench grinder laid on its back so the wheels turn away from me. The stones have 2 grooves each worn in. I grind left to right with each tungsten to reduce risk of contamination. When I dip with aluminum, it sticks to the shaft a way. I grind maybe 3/4" up to clear the aluminum off.

Others say break the tip off the tungsten & regrind. I find that splits tungsten.

[Munkul]

I've had several opportunities to buy old stock tungsten. It is in every case, someone liquidating an estate. I'd guess people steal from their employer the boxes of tungsten, stack them on a shelf until death. Even Airgas doesn't stock that many tungsten.

I can just imagine it!

I used to use thoriated but far prefer 2% lanth now, for the simple reason that all I ever need to keep for any metal, any job is one electrode type. I only ever use 2.4mm (3/32) up to 300 amps AC with one of my machines, but I only have a 200 amp machine now.

I've just ordered 2 packs of E3 Binzel electrodes for work, and liberated a couple for myself, so I'll be able to compare performance with lanth. I'm on a stainless job atm where I can go a long time without dipping, so it comes down to tip erosion. Good way to compare electrodes.

[Kevin_Essiambre]

Alright so my shipment showed up.

I realized that there are no cups with the tig torch, nor the parts kit i ordered.

What size of cup should I buy for the 3/32 collet?

[Willie B]

Alright so my shipment showed up.

I realized that there are no cups with the tig torch, nor the parts kit i ordered.

What size of cup should I buy for the 3/32 collet?

I don't much use collets. I use a gas lens (a little thing much similar to a kitchen faucet aerator). Most of the time I use a #7 cup.

[Kevin_Essiambre]

I don't much use collets. I use a gas lens (a little thing much similar to a kitchen faucet aerator). Most of the time I use a #7 cup.

Parts kit i ordered came with the gas lens parts too, just not the cups.

I guess I'll just pick up a few for both and a couple different sizes

[Willie B]

Parts kit i ordered came with the gas lens parts too, just not the cups.

I guess I'll just pick up a few for both and a couple different sizes

You'll do OK with 6 & 7 unless you do stainless. Then As Big As Available.

[Munkul]

I bought all sorts of weird and wonderful gas lenses and cups over the last few years... I have everything up to #12 cups, as well as a couple of Furick BBW (#19!) cups.

I fast settled down to using a standard gas lens and #7 cup for 99% of everything... You'd maybe use a bigger cup if you're on titanium, or walking the cup... otherwise it's a waste of gas IMHO.

I'll use a plain collet and no.5 ceramic on aluminium though. Alloy doesn't need perfect shielding, and the spitting back of casting repairs sometimes ruins gas lenses.

[Kevin_Essiambre]

So upon closer examination of the tig torch, it appears to be a 12.5' model, not the 25' model i paid for.

I sent an email asking them how we could fix this, and if they are shipping me the correct one, I told them I need to order a couple of cups for it and they could be shipped with it (you know, to avoid shipping fees).

[Kevin_Essiambre]

Alright. More pieces of my puzzle. I've got the right torch that I ordered now, along with cups for both gas lense and standard gas cups in a couple different sizes.

I just picked up some welder cable. They guy made it seem like it was 2/0, but in reality it's #2, oh well, still paid less than my cost on it from a supply house... 2x 50' #2 cables, one with ground clamp and one with electrode holder for $200.

Now I still need to work on coolant (including maybe changing the coolant hoses on the machine), gas (which i NEED to change the hose on. Fitting is all corroded and the hose isn't in great shape), and foot pedal.

Current running tally:
Welder-$100
Tig torch, tungsten, etc - $740
Stinger and ground leads -$200

Still to buy:
Foot pedal - $300+/- Canadian after import fees, shipping, exchange rate, and Canadian tax from customs.
Coolant - $40/gallon OR maybe cheaper if I can source pure ethylene glycol...
Tank of shielding gas - $101/year tank rental plus gas cost... I've considered buying one, but I don't feel its the right thing for me. Biggest problem is size and getting refill, but maybe I will. Depends how much welding I'm going to be doing after I get set up.
Cooling equipment - need to test the pump to see if it works. This is also dependent on coolant... if I purchase bulk ethylene glycol I could reuse the large tank on it.

[G-ManBart]

Coolant - $40/gallon OR maybe cheaper if I can source pure ethylene glycol...

Depending upon where the machine is stored, and the lowest temperatures it would ever see, you might be able to go with a mix of coolant and distilled water and save a few bucks. For example, the current Miller low conductivity coolant is listed as being good to -37*F/-38*C so even if you go 50/50 you'd be good to half of that. Even for a machine kept in a heated area I think it's smart to run at least 50/50 in case of a power outage for colder areas and to minimize the algae that can grow even with clean distilled water. I think most coolant has a bit of pump lubricant in it as well, which can't hurt.

[Kevin_Essiambre]

Depending upon where the machine is stored, and the lowest temperatures it would ever see, you might be able to go with a mix of coolant and distilled water and save a few bucks. For example, the current Miller low conductivity coolant is listed as being good to -37*F/-38*C so even if you go 50/50 you'd be good to half of that. Even for a machine kept in a heated area I think it's smart to run at least 50/50 in case of a power outage for colder areas and to minimize the algae that can grow even with clean distilled water. I think most coolant has a bit of pump lubricant in it as well, which can't hurt.

Currently the welder is stored outside because I'm not set up to use it.

It may end up in an unheated building, or it may end up in a heated garage...

Regardless, it's getting a coolant mix that is good to -40 because the last thing I need is it to be stored in the heated garage, and the power to go out mid winter and out generator isn't setup to power the garage (which is all electric heat).

I found one coolant (not the miller stuff, another brand) that is a 30/70 mix. MSDS/SDS states its only 2 ingredients: ethylene glycol and deionized water... no pump lubricant. My plan was to just make my own coolant with 50% pure ethylene glycol and 50% deionized water (if I can find it).

[G-ManBart]

I found one coolant (not the miller stuff, another brand) that is a 30/70 mix. MSDS/SDS states its only 2 ingredients: ethylene glycol and deionized water... no pump lubricant. My plan was to just make my own coolant with 50% pure ethylene glycol and 50% deionized water (if I can find it).

I'm starting a cooler build and was thinking about coolant this morning so I had to look...Amazon shows deionized water around $15+ a gallon and pure ethylene glycol at over $40 a gallon...yikes. Hopefully there's a more reasonable source!

[shovelon]

Currently the welder is stored outside because I'm not set up to use it.

It may end up in an unheated building, or it may end up in a heated garage...

Regardless, it's getting a coolant mix that is good to -40 because the last thing I need is it to be stored in the heated garage, and the power to go out mid winter and out generator isn't setup to power the garage (which is all electric heat).

I found one coolant (not the miller stuff, another brand) that is a 30/70 mix. MSDS/SDS states its only 2 ingredients: ethylene glycol and deionized water... no pump lubricant. My plan was to just make my own coolant with 50% pure ethylene glycol and 50% deionized water (if I can find it).

This will probably open a can of worms but I never got along with antifreeze. Not that it won't work but after 30 years of use I am convinced my pumps last longer with water soluble emulsion cutting fluids designed for lubricity. My oldest Procon Pump is still pumping after 25 years running TrimSol even though the male and female drive shafts on both the pump and motor are nearly gone. It outlasted a Linde 305, Hobart CyberWave, and a ThermalArc400GTSW. It is now pumping coolant for a Dynasty350. A spare pump has been on the shelf a good decade.

TrimSol emulsion coolant also doubles as coolant for my CNC mills, cold saws, and squirt bottles. Cheap too as it has been produced in the millions of gallons over the years. Water to coolant mix ration is 10 parts water to 1 part coolant for a total of 11 gallons. I use water that has been osmosis filtered.

https://www.masterfluidsolutions.com...on.php?pid=SOL

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/19293042

[Willie B]

This will probably open a can of worms but I never got along with antifreeze. Not that it won't work but after 30 years of use I am convinced my pumps last longer with water soluble emulsion cutting fluids designed for lubricity. My oldest Procon Pump is still pumping after 25 years running TrimSol even though the male and female drive shafts on both the pump and motor are nearly gone. It outlasted a Linde 305, Hobart CyberWave, and a ThermalArc400GTSW. It is now pumping coolant for a Dynasty350. A spare pump has been on the shelf a good decade.

TrimSol emulsion coolant also doubles as coolant for my CNC mills, cold saws, and squirt bottles. Cheap too as it has been produced in the millions of gallons over the years. Water to coolant mix ration is 10 parts water to 1 part coolant for a total of 11 gallons. I use water that has been osmosis filtered.

https://www.masterfluidsolutions.com...on.php?pid=SOL

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/19293042

I apologize for my confusion. Is it resistant to freezing?

There has been a lot of discussion about cooler fluid. Everybody agrees on deionized water. It seems it is essential for proper function welding with high frequency. Beyond that some live in warm climates, others may want anti freeze. Nobody agrees on the use of automotive anti freeze.

The only thing everybody agrees; change your fluid yearly.

[shovelon]

I apologize for my confusion. Is it resistant to freezing?

There has been a lot of discussion about cooler fluid. Everybody agrees on deionized water. It seems it is essential for proper function welding with high frequency. Beyond that some live in warm climates, others may want anti freeze. Nobody agrees on the use of automotive anti freeze.

The only thing everybody agrees; change your fluid yearly.

I put some in the freezer and try it. I will know tomorrow. But then I don't leave my machines outside.

[Willie B]

I should put some in the freezer and try it. I will know tomorrow. But then I don't leave my machines outside.

Yours would be stolen if left outside. Kevin's will freeze inside. Just sayin.

[12V71]

Currently the welder is stored outside because I'm not set up to use it.

It may end up in an unheated building, or it may end up in a heated garage...

Regardless, it's getting a coolant mix that is good to -40 because the last thing I need is it to be stored in the heated garage, and the power to go out mid winter and out generator isn't setup to power the garage (which is all electric heat).

I found one coolant (not the miller stuff, another brand) that is a 30/70 mix. MSDS/SDS states its only 2 ingredients: ethylene glycol and deionized water... no pump lubricant. My plan was to just make my own coolant with 50% pure ethylene glycol and 50% deionized water (if I can find it).

The red extended life coolants for diesel truck engines are premixed 50/50 with deionized water. And its pretty slippery stuff. Might be what your looking for.

[Kevin_Essiambre]

The red extended life coolants for diesel truck engines are premixed 50/50 with deionized water. And its pretty slippery stuff. Might be what your looking for.

I'll have to look into that. The MSDS/SDS will have the chemicals in it. Ideally I'd like to get something with no additives, as there's so much yes its okay and no don't do it.

I'll definitely look into it though. It may be cheaper than the tig coolant.

It may come down to me just buying the right tig coolant.

I did send an email to an HVAC supplier we have an account at to see if they have/can get pure ethylene glycol. Only issue is, I'm not sure if the guy i emailed still works there... I may have to call and ask for him...

[Munkul]

I apologize for my confusion. Is it resistant to freezing?

There has been a lot of discussion about cooler fluid. Everybody agrees on deionized water. It seems it is essential for proper function welding with high frequency. Beyond that some live in warm climates, others may want anti freeze. Nobody agrees on the use of automotive anti freeze.

The only thing everybody agrees; change your fluid yearly.

I buy proper welding coolant.

1. it's de-ionised to start with and minimal loss of HF
2. it's designed to play nice with copper, steel and brass components without corrosion
3. designed to not clog up in the tiny galleries of a wp20 torch head
4. it has antifreeze

I don't change it yearly though... I don't change it at all

[Kevin_Essiambre]

Alright. So my search for ethylene glycol has not been all that great, however, I did find polypropylene glycol, which appears to work just as well (I did find some commercially available tig torch coolant made with polypropylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol).

20L of the stuff is $128+/-, and deionized water i can get from trusty old Canadian Tire for $5/gallon.

So for about $148+tax, I could have 40L of coolant... compare that to the welding suppliers with $40/gallon coolant (which is basically the same thing) and I'd have to buy 10 of them, which would be over $400 plus tax.

Well I know which way I'm going to go.

The only thing I'm not sure about is lube for the pump. Several people mentioned that commercial coolants will have lube for the pump... I'm wondering if I could just find a pump that doesn't need lube.

[shovelon]

Alright. So my search for ethylene glycol has not been all that great, however, I did find polypropylene glycol, which appears to work just as well (I did find some commercially available tig torch coolant made with polypropylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol).

20L of the stuff is $128+/-, and deionized water i can get from trusty old Canadian Tire for $5/gallon.

So for about $148+tax, I could have 40L of coolant... compare that to the welding suppliers with $40/gallon coolant (which is basically the same thing) and I'd have to buy 10 of them, which would be over $400 plus tax.

Well I know which way I'm going to go.

The only thing I'm not sure about is lube for the pump. Several people mentioned that commercial coolants will have lube for the pump... I'm wondering if I could just find a pump that doesn't need lube.

If you are using a vane style pump like a ProCon, the liquid itself is a lubricant. The wear comes from startup when the vanes cannot hydroplane. Worst case is letting the pump go dry, so upon filling with fluid you want to prime the pump with coolant. Perhaps full strength automotive antifreeze before dilution could do it.

ProCon pumps were designed as carbonator pumps for the beverage industry. They only pumped water and syrup and had a good service history.

This is my source for ProCon pumps, parts, and service. http://www.edcodistributing.com/