Another Wheel

[kb0thn]

Sam, you could learn a simple free CAD program in a few hours. And then draw what you want and sent it to an online laser cutting place and get back a perfect part for $50. If it makes you feel better, you can still ream the holes or clean up IDs and ODs on the lathe. But all the holes will be perfectly located right off the laser cutter to as good as you can measure. OSHcut.com.

Just food for thought.

[farmersammm]

Checked the template for runout before lining it up on the lathe. The caliper showed that the thing hadn't moved on the rotary table



Got 'er centered, then checked the clearance between the parallels.



Didn't want this crap to happen again



Turned it to fit. The hub is 4.630, and the template is 4.634 .



Didn't hit any parallels, but came dangerously close to the washers

Start boring the hubs for the studs tomorrow, if the weather isn't too messy. Even though I'm inside, it sometimes gets a puddle in front of the door, and I hate leaving extension cords submerged in a puddle.

[farmersammm]

I just boooooogered up a hole!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[farmersammm]

Thankfully, the booger wasn't really a booger. I'd forgotten to dial the boring head in, took a cut, and made a counter sink in the hole. Thought I'd taken too much material, and ruined the first 1/8" of the hole...........but it turned out the mistake was within the total amount of material that had to be removed

Anyways............................The template is put on the hub, and smoogied around to find what position allows me to have enough material to enlarge the existing holes.

You just rotate it to visually check that you're in the ballpark on all 6 bolt holes. If you look carefully at the pilot shoulder on the hub, you can see where the damaged wheel came loose at one time, and climbed over the shoulder.........pretty much ruining it. It's still got enough meat to hold the new wheel because the new wheel is made to about .003 slip fit. Tight fit, and it won't move, or wear.

The template is clamped in place, and the spindle is centered up using the hole in the template.



The first hole in the hub is machined, and marked. This will be the index for all 6 holes. This is the same as using the rotary table, or a dividing head..........sorta

[farmersammm]

Then, I toddle (you don't hop skip jump at my age) over to the lathe to make a centering pin.

The pin is made so that it will sit in the hole with about .003 clearance, and also fit the template with the same clearance.

The pin lines the whole thing up for repeated setups.





I don't have a choice, and have no other way of doing this. My rotary table is too small to hold the hub without making an adapter plate that I can use to hold the hub in the center. And......................making an adapter plate would be a waste of time because my other hubs on other pieces of equipment vary in size, and some will take every inch of headspace on the mill........which makes using the rotary table a no-go.......it eats up precious under spindle clearance.

[farmersammm]

I've gone a bit smaller on the holes on this hub. I'm shooting for about .010 interference fit for the press in studs. Looking on the internet, I get two different recommendations for clearance. Dorman, and Summit Racing, call out .005 for cast iron and steel hubs. Another outfit (actually a couple), ARP Tech calls out .006-.016 interference.

My studs have a knurl diameter .560 . I'm running the holes at approx. .550 . I'm not totally comfortable with this. I'm afraid the stress might crack the cast iron. If I feel the effort to press the studs in is excessive............I guess it's back to the mill to enlarge the holes a few thousands This is a tedius task, and I don't relish it. It's a total PITA to do all these setups.

THE HUB MATERIAL

This stuff SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's like machining dirt. The tool scrapes more than it cuts. The damn cast iron alloy eats tools. Using oil just makes a huge mess, so I'm cutting dry. The oil traps the particles, and makes a gritty slurry.

I think the hub on the Allis was probably what they call "semi steel". This hub is probably pure hodge podge cast iron including the kitchen sink. IT SUCKS.

It's been my experience that most farm equipment is the pinnacle of CHEAP. Off the shelf parts, lousy castings, and almost slavish use of crappy pillow block bearings. It's good to go out the door,, and work for a while............but it's Hell to keep running once it reaches its age date.

[farmersammm]

Oh yeah..........................Sunday was a wash

I burnt up the drop cord that runs the shop heaters The connector is just outside the door, and when it's dark, I sometimes stumble over it on the way to the house. This apparently loosened the connections inside the plug, caused the plug to overheat, which caused the receptacle to over heat, WHICH MELTED THE PLUG

Rummaged around in the shop to find some new receptacles, and plugs (yeah.........it also burnt up the drop that connects to the main drop) to fix it all...........but I was just too damn disgusted to do the work today. Helped K'kins trim trees instead. Oooooomph.

[farmersammm]

Ain't a lot gettin' done here................................ Just feedin' cows.



Ought to get back to it when the weather clears.

[Popeye an old miner]

Ain't a lot gettin' done here................................ Just feedin' cows.



Ought to get back to it when the weather clears.

Dammit I hate a wet cold *** this time of year. Take care of yerself Sam, cowboys dont come like you much anymore and its a damn shame it workin out that way

[whtbaron]

Ain't a lot gettin' done here................................ Just feedin' cows.



Ought to get back to it when the weather clears.

LOL... welcome to my world. -23 here this morning. Now you know why my hog barn got turned into a heated shop, and none of my tractors get left outside in winter.

[farmersammm]

Now that I have heat in the shop again, it's time to get back to it.

The last hole on the last day





Not so fast bucko..................

This is a pretty damaged hub.

Pilot ring is almost gone, and the surface of the hub is equally messed up.

The new disc sits evenly on the hub, and doesn't rock when pressed down equally on either side of the disc.. BUT IT AIN'T RIGHT.

This is where you earn your Master Machinist cap with the fancy stitched letters

The mating surface on the new disc had been previously blued/inked. Rotating the disc on the hub removed the ink near the center bore. This means you have a problem. It should remove ink across the entire mating surface.

[farmersammm]

Do a simple test to verify you have a gap. Just a plain ol' flashlight.



Then see roughly how much material has to be removed to make it flat.

A .004 feeler gauge will slip into the gap.

If the hub was made from steel, this wouldn't be an issue. Steel has some give in it. But, the hub is made out of cast iron, which can be pretty brittle. My fear is, that when the nuts are fully torqued, they will put too much strain on the hub because the new replacement disc ain't gonna move........the hub will try to move to close the gap. I think this might crack the hub. So........tomorrow (because I'm sick of this project, and can't bear to look at it anymore today), I need to mill the mating surface on the hub.

And I thought I might get this all welded up today

[lars66]

Why not punch out the inner race and set it up in the lathe? I would even think the O D of the hub would be turned true so it could be used as a register against the chuck jaws.

[farmersammm]

Why not punch out the inner race and set it up in the lathe? I would even think the O D of the hub would be turned true so it could be used as a register against the chuck jaws.

Tapered casting on the hub, can't grab it with the jaws.............................So............... ....... Away we go

[12V71]

Tapered casting on the hub, can't grab it with the jaws.............................So............... ....... Away we go

You could do that in about 20 minutes on a brake rotor lathe that centers on the bearing cups...At your local NAPA store.

[farmersammm]

Lathe Dawg!!!!!!

Milling the mating face didn't work out (shrug) The surface that I'm using to register is not good, and the only way to make it good is to put it on the lathe. But the hub is tapered, and the jaws won't grab it. So...................it's back to the method used on the loader wheel. The hub has to be mounted on a fixture. A temporary spindle sorta.

The hub has to be mounted on the wheel bearings. But this time with a twist A shaft extending from the lathe chuck will carry one of the bearings, and the other bearing will be carried by the tailstock. BUT THE LATHE JAWS WON'T DRIVE THE SHAFT. The hub will be "floating" on the bearings, and has to be driven by a dog. This way, I can just face the hub on the fixture, and be done with it.

Sorta figured I might need a dog one day, but till now,, that day never came....................

Some stock is squared. The edges made parallel, then the parallel edges are used to set up the ends for milling.





Then everything comes to a screeching halt I gotta rethink the whole thing................... As explained in second paragraph.

Also.........lacking a good means of mounting some stock in the vise, it needs to be inked, and scribed, then sighted to the top of the jaw. Both jaw tops were checked to make sure they're ground parallel to the table, and mill spindle travel.

Good to go

Zee plan is in motion

[farmersammm]

You could do that in about 20 minutes on a brake rotor lathe that centers on the bearing cups...At your local NAPA store.

Way ahead of ya We don't need no steenkin NAPA

[lars66]

Maybe I should have been more clear. i thought maybe the inner bearing bore would be large enough to grip in the lathe chuck from the inside.

[farmersammm]

Maybe I should have been more clear. i thought maybe the inner bearing bore would be large enough to grip in the lathe chuck from the inside.

That would of worked too. I just don't want to go through removing bearing races. And, I'm still looking at making a supporting fixture for the free end. It's too doggone heavy to leave out there spinning in space.

I ran into some issues with the drive dog, and let it sit on the burner till tomorrow. I'm struggling to make it as compact as possible, but with as wide a range as possible. I'm literally talking micro changes.

[lars66]

Why not turn a plug with a center and shoulder on it that just fits inside the outer bearing to run in a live center and grip the seal surface in the chuck using the end of the inner race for registering against the end of jaws. Normal pressure on the live center should turn that instead of the bearing.

[farmersammm]

Why not turn a plug with a center and shoulder on it that just fits inside the outer bearing to run in a live center and grip the seal surface in the chuck using the end of the inner race for registering against the end of jaws. Normal pressure on the live center should turn that instead of the bearing.

I sorta did that last time around.









Great minds think alike

This time I'm just doing it a little different because I don't want to remove the race to grip the hub from the inside.

[farmersammm]

It's the setups that kill ya. I'm not a master machinist, and it all takes a bit of noodling to figure out how to set it up. More time to do a setup than it actually takes to cut the damn part.

[12V71]

All this rigamarole because you're scared to tap a race out of a hub and use a bullnose opposite the chuck? (walks away shaking head).

[farmersammm]

You betcha dooooooooooooooooooood

[farmersammm]

Does calling someone doooooooood mean the same as it did when I was kid????????