Newbie looking for opinions

[G-ManBart]

For these small transformers I suggest a minimum of #6 copper & a 60 amp breaker.

That's overkill. When I bought my first Thunderbolt AC/DC I ran a 40A breaker and 10ga wire (dedicated welder outlet so wire conductors don't have to be as large per code) and the machine ran perfectly. Then I found a Thunderbolt XL 300/200 and ran it on the same outlet...zero issues. Then I bought a Dialarc 250 and ran it on the same outlet....also ran perfectly. I wasn't maxing the Dialarc, but ran it pretty high to see if I could pop the breaker and never did.

[Willie B]

That's overkill. When I bought my first Thunderbolt AC/DC I ran a 40A breaker and 10ga wire (dedicated welder outlet so wire conductors don't have to be as large per code) and the machine ran perfectly. Then I found a Thunderbolt XL 300/200 and ran it on the same outlet...zero issues. Then I bought a Dialarc 250 and ran it on the same outlet....also ran perfectly. I wasn't maxing the Dialarc, but ran it pretty high to see if I could pop the breaker and never did.

My Dialarc 250 HF tripped a 60 routinely. I then went to #4 Copper & 100 amp breaker. I'll acknowledge a small stick welder doesn't need 60 amps, but everybody upgrades welders over time.

[Oscar]

[I][FONT=comic sans ms][COLOR=#006400]Thanks for the help Oscar,
I new so I'll have to research the transformer up/down power and how it may help me.

There isn't much to research. Here is the scenario where it could help:

You: I have this 240V single-phase inverter welder, but I only have 120V/20A circuits available to me, so I can't use it.
Me: Here, plug this voltage converter into your 120V/20A circuit, and let's make a pigtail to plug into the "220V" outlet on the converter, and a NEMA 6-50R receptacle on the other end. That way you can use your 240V welder, up to about 95-100A.
You: Ok, great idea!

That's it. Simple.

Of course if your welder can already work on 120V, then the voltage converter is not needed what so ever.

[smithdoor]

I hope you like the outdoors.
Most welding is outside or doors open to let smoke out.

Dave

Strictly gonna dabble on new rural property :
I would like to learn old school stick welding 1st. I might move on to mig or later tig eventually but after the research I've done, I think the Lincoln AC or AC/DC Buzz Box is what I'll look for (used). I believe they are built tough and can be got cheap ?

I understand a bit now, about the difference between AC & DC + or - welding and the deposition rates. I just wonder if the benefits of the DC - or + for that matter is worth the extra money ?? It seems an AC only unit will be fine for 3/16", 1/4" thicknesses. But I have questions about 16 to 11 gauge metals like the red iron framing I'd like to weld for a carport project ??

Maybe you have ideas on
a) welding machine ?
b) AC welding vs DC-/+ welding ?
c) electrodes : 6011 , 6013 or 7018 for 16 to 11 gauge welding ?
d) or any other helpful info ?

Thanks sincerely ...............
Steph

[Willie B]

I have had limited success with 16 gauge & stick. Now I didn't do due diligence, trying to overcome the problems. I just had a better way. 22-16gauge is the world of Torch (acetylene), Mig, and especially TIG.

Stick belongs in every steel thicker than that. I believe I could do 16 gauge with my 500 LB welder, but NOT with my 150 LB welder.

Thin stuff works best with 6013, or 7014 5/64" rod. On very thin steel, try straight polarity Electrode Negative. It reduces blow through.
6011 is a great fast freeze rod perfect for out of position welds. it burns deep with lots of spatter so it tolerates rust or contaminants better than others.
6010 is DC electrode positive only, otherwise same as 6011.
7018 is low hydrogen. Reducing hydrogen reduces the risk of a weld separating from parent metal. It becomes important in high strength steel.
There is an AC version of 7018.

[Oscar]

6010 is DC electrode positive only, otherwise same as 6011..

The voltage requirements to run a true 6010 rod are vastly higher than a 6011, therefore I disagree that the only difference is that 6010 is ran on DCEP.

[Kelvin]

6010 is DC electrode positive only, otherwise same as 6011.

I've used 6010 on DCEN aplenty (mostly by accident) and -- other than reportedly giving less penetration on DCEN -- it works fine.

[weldnhack]

I would not recommend a 120v only transformer or inverter machine to anyone who could feasibly add a 240v outlet. as for machines: as inexpensive as some of the dual voltage multi process inverter machines are I would buy one of those instead of a transformer machine.( unless you want to spend for professional grade ) Prime Weld has some fairly good machines and will stand behind them, Yes Welder makes a good multi but I don't know about their customer support because I haven't needed it. Weld Pro makes a really nice 200 amp mig, tig, stick machine that functions really well as a lift tig rig but again I don't know anything about their customer service. A guy on my crew has one that I have used and it is a slick little machine, so much so we bought one for work to run off of a miller trail blazer engine drive for field welding. it runs about 640.00
the Yes welder 205ds is nearly identical to the weld pro and runs a little less than 400.00 and would definitely be worth a look and some research into their customer service. I guess what I have so clumsily been trying to say is get your feet wet with an inexpensive easy to use machine that wont trip the breaker every 10 minutes and then if it is not enough machine for you use the knowledge you will have gained by that point to pick a machine that will satisfy your needs.

best of luck to you and happy hunting