Backhoe bucket repair

[Ryanjax]

The bucket on my backhoe is due for repair this winter. I need to replace the teeth, and address the floor of the bucket. What is the best way to approach this? It's a John Deere 310e. What material for the floor? Any recommended vendors for the teeth? Cut off and weld new teeth on or set up for pin on teeth?

Also, would you rebush these holes? It's getting kinda sloppy and wobbly.



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[ronsii]

A lot will depend on just how much you use the machine and what for??? as for the teeth looks like the shanks are still good....I see the teeth are welded on to them - is this just to keep the rattle down? or other??? Those look like the 'crimp on' teeth... right???

[Bls repair]

I think the caps are pin ons

[Bls repair]

Cut out similar to this . Make template of floor to bend new floor . I like to make floor about an inch bigger then bucket .weld wear bars across bucket

[Bls repair]

I use AR400 for floor and wear bars

[Welder Dave]

Hard to say if the teeth are crimp on or pin but look like crimp on to me. Pins aren't generally recessed in a dimple. For a backhoe bucket they are on upside down and it's surprising they aren't all broken off at the edge of the weld. The way they are on the bucket is how they'd be on a skid steer bucket. Forged teeth are much better than welded teeth. For the holes you could have them bored out and a bushing either pressed or welded in. The bucket is small enough to take off and have done in a machine shop. AR400 would be good for the floor but if wear bars are added mild steel would be a cheaper option. Use AR400 for the wear bars or apply some hardfacing. It's not a heavy duty bucket on a large excavator.

[12V71]

Hard to say if the teeth are crimp on or pin but look like crimp on to me. Pins aren't generally recessed in a dimple. For a backhoe bucket they are on upside down and it's surprising they aren't all broken off at the edge of the weld. The way they are on the bucket is how they'd be on a skid steer bucket. Forged teeth are much better than welded teeth. For the holes you could have them bored out and a bushing either pressed or welded in. The bucket is small enough to take off and have done in a machine shop. AR400 would be good for the floor but if wear bars are added mild steel would be a cheaper option. Use AR400 for the wear bars or apply some hardfacing. It's not a heavy duty bucket on a large excavator.

You're looking at the teeth from the bottom of the bucket... They're mounted in the proper orientation.
I figure if they have been welded on, most likely the adaptors are shot.

[Welder Dave]

On closer inspection they are on the correct way but it's a little hard to tell from the pics. It's common to weld on crimp on teeth. My skid steer has crimp on teeth and I hate them. Was looking into the one piece bolt on style to replace them. The welded teeth break easily and the top wears thin, they open up and get ripped off. You need a torch to change them and usually also have to run a bead on them.

[Ryanjax]

The teeth have holes in them so I assumed that they were replaceable teeth that were just welded on because they were falling off.

This backhoe is used around the farm and on a few jobs for trenching. Currently I'm using it to dig my walkout basement but plan on doing the repair after that.

[farmshop]

I would get new shanks for the teeth and get pin on style. Whether you cut the old shanks off or just buy a new cutting edge depends on how wore the edge is. It’s a small enough bucket maybe a steel supplier would have a drop from a shear job to save some money

[OPUS FERRO]

.
Ryanjax

This is a good thread - all info is forward . . .

The bad new - your bucket, dog-bones, and related pivots
are shot . . .

The good news - the 'ripper shanks' are intact - upon a
well/worn moldboard . . .

'Do the minimum to make your bucket functional' . . .

Scab: a new floor, and replace the rippers with mid-worn-
out rippers . . .

You are facing: a major [align boring] rebuild of all pivot
points [thru the entire boom] - until then - buy . . .

A new/used bucket - and 'plant flowers' in your old one . . .

hth


Opus



.

[12V71]

.
Ryanjax

This is a good thread - all info is forward . . .

The bad new - your bucket, dog-bones, and related pivots
are shot . . .

The good news - the 'ripper shanks' are intact - upon a
well/worn moldboard . . .

'Do the minimum to make your bucket functional' . . .

Scab: a new floor, and replace the rippers with mid-worn-
out rippers . . .

You are facing: a major [align boring] rebuild of all pivot
points [thru the entire boom] - until then - buy . . .

A new/used bucket - and 'plant flowers' in your old one . . .

hth


Opus



.

No pics of his bucket linkage, just the bucket lugs themselves. If you noticed it does have a quick coupler so the bucket pins are non-rotating. If the rest of the stick linkage has been greased well there is probably no damage that a set of new bushings couldn't fix. I've had several buckets that were line bored for weld in bushings at a machine shop that really weren't all that expensive.
And more than once I've seen used machines sold with well used buckets because some salesman's buddy need a newer one. Especially if it had a quick attach adapter.

[smithdoor]

Looks like great project.
Little line boring
Thinking of hard facing wire.
Just a lot of fun
The trip bank 😀😃😄😁

Dave

The bucket on my backhoe is due for repair this winter. I need to replace the teeth, and address the floor of the bucket. What is the best way to approach this? It's a John Deere 310e. What material for the floor? Any recommended vendors for the teeth? Cut off and weld new teeth on or set up for pin on teeth?

Also, would you rebush these holes? It's getting kinda sloppy and wobbly.



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[guajilloweld03]

Go over to heavy equipment forum/shop talk and look up a post by Tom V. this post shows a lot of his work on buckets and line boring.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com...ictures.23087/

[akpolaris]

Is that where Tom V went. He does fantastic work

Go over to heavy equipment forum/shop talk and look up a post by Tom V. this post shows a lot of his work on buckets and line boring.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com...ictures.23087/

[snoeproe]

The bottom of the bucket is sprung. She’s worn out and very thin where it’s sprung. The wear plate is long gone and it’s caused the bucket to wear very thin.
I’ve replaced entire bucket bottoms and I’ve cut sections out then welded new pieces in. The carbon arc air gouger works it’s magic for these types of jobs.
If you re do the bottom, wear plate strips need to be added also.

A 2 layer hard facing weld pattern for sand/rock on the wear plate will greatly help extend the life of the wear plate.

[Popeye an old miner]

This is a nice project for a few days once you get the bottom rolled, use ar plate and preheat it before you weld it. I would be welding it with Innershield NR233 1/16 wire, you could go with .072 wire if you want to As for the eyes for your pins a bit of careful redneck line boring will fix it right up, just watch your measurements and alignment and have fun with all of it

[evan]

I agree bucket is salvageable with nothing fancy no special wire sczb some metal on build up the heal remove shanks to put new on if you need good teeth in some applications teeth shanks with no teeth may last a few people's life time.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F264368917702


Definitely talk to s local machinest on the bucket bore. Cut off existing wofn bore weld on new with redkneck method like mentioned earlier. Ive fixed some unfixable bore that otheres said were unfixable needing quantime flux nureactuler computer animation alignment.
Well i put the pins through smacked it with a sledge tack it curl bucket snap tacks retack and repeat till tacks didnt crack. Then burn.

Most of all have fun with it. Remember at the end of the day its just metal drug through the dirt doesnt need fancy treatment

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[Willie B]

The bucket on my backhoe is due for repair this winter. I need to replace the teeth, and address the floor of the bucket. What is the best way to approach this? It's a John Deere 310e. What material for the floor? Any recommended vendors for the teeth? Cut off and weld new teeth on or set up for pin on teeth?

Also, would you rebush these holes? It's getting kinda sloppy and wobbly.



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The teeth are welded to the shanks, inexplicable!
Those teeth have been repaired by adding plate to them. I tried that once cause rock only soil wears them out fast. I tried welding them to the bottom, like a chisel, using cutting edge from a grader. They lasted a while. No welds broke, but the cutting edge broke just beyond the weld. If I tried again I'd use 3/4" AR400 plate. Amazing, your edge isn't gummed out between teeth. As for floor, I'd cut away the old, use flat pieces of AR400 run 3/4" past the sides. Weld inside & out. Instead of having the AR bent I'd do it in 2 or three pieces.

[Welder Dave]

The teeth look like standard fabricated crimp on teeth. Nothing has been welded on them. It is common to weld them on the shanks because they can pull off or in the case of a bobcat bucket the top wears thin and they rip open when doing heavy digging. I ran a couple hardfacing beads on the top edges of the last ones I put on and also a bead across the shank. The teeth at the bucket corners are the worst for coming off and the shanks wear pretty fast when you lose a tooth. Would rather grind a weld off than have to build up and grind a shank back to the correct shape. I hate the crimp on teeth for these reasons but that's what comes on a lot skid steers.

https://www.colemanequip.com/parts/d...ket-Tooth/2AH/

[ronsii]

The teeth look like standard fabricated crimp on teeth. Nothing has been welded on them. It is common to weld them on the shanks because they can pull off or in the case of a bobcat bucket the top wears thin and they rip open when doing heavy digging. I ran a couple hardfacing beads on the top edges of the last ones I put on and also a bead across the shank. The teeth at the bucket corners are the worst for coming off and the shanks wear pretty fast when you lose a tooth. Would rather grind a weld off than have to build up and grind a shank back to the correct shape. I hate the crimp on teeth for these reasons but that's what comes on a lot skid steers.

https://www.colemanequip.com/parts/d...ket-Tooth/2AH/

Yep, I do the same on some of our machines that have vertical pin teeth that like to come off when demoing or slash pile burning.. just weld the base of the tooth on... only takes a minute to run a skinny wheel down the weld to get em' off if you need to anyways

[12V71]

Yep, I do the same on some of our machines that have vertical pin teeth that like to come off when demoing or slash pile burning.. just weld the base of the tooth on... only takes a minute to run a skinny wheel down the weld to get em' off if you need to anyways

I had a Case 9030 that came with all the teeth welded on, somebody had worn the adaptors down to nubs so I just welded on a set of tiger teeth that lasted a long time and like you said it only took a few minutes with a razor wheel to get them off.