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Thread: Squat rack

  1. #1
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    Squat rack

    My wife wants a squat rack. Pretty simple build minus all the hole drilling. Annular cutter on the mill for all the holes or can I get away with a twist drill?

    I plan to have it powder coated. The standard hole for these things is a 5/8". How much should I plan for the powder coating taking up...ie how big should I drill my holes so a 5/8" pin can fit into the holes?

    The model shown is about $800 plus shipping. I'd probably be close to break even after powdercoating but then I don't get all the brownie points.

  2. #2
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    Re: Squat rack

    Forgot the picture...
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  3. #3
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    Re: Squat rack

    I would go a 32nd large and put a pin in your pin

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    I haven't built anything I can't throw away. Perfection is the journey.

    Mac

  4. #4
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    Re: Squat rack

    I make them all the time. I like the advice of a 1/32 larger. I don't use annular cutters I use a 17mm twist bite. I make the holes every 2' apart. If you plan to lift with in the rack have the horizontal pieces at least 30" long. If squating out of the rack just make a 2 post lift and attach to the wall or make free standing. Go to Reebz Welding on face book and you can see a bunch of different styles.

    I just Paint them. If you want J Cup advice I can tell you what I do.
    Take care and have a good Thanksgiving

  5. #5
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    Oct 2014
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    Re: Squat rack

    Most bolt holes use the next size bigger than the bolt. This wouldn't be much different. If powder coated 1/16" bigger might be better. The holes aren't that critical.

  6. #6
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    Re: Squat rack

    Quote Originally Posted by Reebz View Post
    I make them all the time. I like the advice of a 1/32 larger. I don't use annular cutters I use a 17mm twist bite. I make the holes every 2' apart. If you plan to lift with in the rack have the horizontal pieces at least 30" long. If squating out of the rack just make a 2 post lift and attach to the wall or make free standing. Go to Reebz Welding on face book and you can see a bunch of different styles.

    I just Paint them. If you want J Cup advice I can tell you what I do.
    Take care and have a good Thanksgiving
    Thanks for the advice! Feel free to send all the j cup info you have.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Re: Squat rack

    I would think if welding all day you not need squat rack. Just go out and move some steel.

    Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryanjax View Post
    My wife wants a squat rack. Pretty simple build minus all the hole drilling. Annular cutter on the mill for all the holes or can I get away with a twist drill?

    I plan to have it powder coated. The standard hole for these things is a 5/8". How much should I plan for the powder coating taking up...ie how big should I drill my holes so a 5/8" pin can fit into the holes?

    The model shown is about $800 plus shipping. I'd probably be close to break even after powdercoating but then I don't get all the brownie points.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Australia
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    Re: Squat rack

    Op said it's for his wife.

  9. #9
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    Re: Squat rack

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryanjax View Post
    My wife wants a squat rack. Pretty simple build minus all the hole drilling.
    If I was to build one I think I would copy something like the smith machine.
    Itís nice to have the safety feature.
    Miller 211
    Hypertherm PM 45
    1961 Lincoln Idealarc 250
    HTP 221


    True Wisdom only comes from Pain.

  10. #10
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    Re: Squat rack

    Looks like the sample in the picture uses standard perforated telescopic tubing. Keep the hole drilling for the small parts.

    This is just a sample for reference. Local suppliers would be much cheaper. https://www.mcmaster.com/4931T152/
    Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR"
    MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX3ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW2002ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig4ea,MigMax1ea.

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  12. #11
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    Re: Squat rack

    The way I make my J Cups.
    2 sections of 3/8 thick Flat stock 11" long (22" total)
    2 sections of 3.5x3.5 Angle iron 1/4' wall cut 2" long (4" total)
    2 sections of 5/8 cold rolled cut at 4" (8" Total)
    I drill the 5/8 hole in the flat stock 1" from the top

    The first bend is 2" from the bottom and I bend it 31 degrees.
    The second bend is 6" the top and I bend it to 48 degrees. Spring back is the reason for the overbend
    If you want the plastic liner (not needed IMHO) I get it a McMaster Carr. Here is a link: https://www.mcmaster.com/uhmw-polyet...thickness~1-4/
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    Last edited by Reebz; 11-28-2020 at 02:28 PM.

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