square peg round hole

[vdotmatrix]

This displays upside down...how aggravating. But you get the idea.

I am still working on my T-bar canoe support and just have to weld this and can prime and paint. NOT SO FAST. As you can see, there is alway a complication

i can weld the tube in place and build the sides up to fill the nightmare gaps.

I could grind a flat spot on the base, ugggg.

or I could notch out the tube to fit the base. ugggg

or, I could cut off a precise slice of tubing to fit either side.

ALWAYS SOMETHING..any ideas?


i have to get to a computer to post rhe two pictures, cannot do it from iphone

[12V71]

Fill it up. I use kind of a J pattern weave that bridges over the gap if I don't need 100% penetration. Less distortion that way.

[Welder Dave]

What are you welding it with that it would be any kind of a problem? I's not like it's 16 gauge tubing.

[Bob]

I don't see a problem.

[vdotmatrix]

What are you welding it with that it would be any kind of a problem? I's not like it's 16 gauge tubing.

I cannot call myself a welder, but I TIG weld. You folks prolly see these things all the time. Me, I come up with welding projects because it is fun, but welding and fabrication, to me is a science. You can really FKUP very easily. Most of the parts for my project I had to make so I dont want to ruin them.....is why I am here to see what welding fabricators might have to offer..... thanks for responding.

[OPUS FERRO]

vdotmatrix

This displays upside down...how aggravating . . . But you get
the idea . . . ALWAYS SOMETHING..any ideas?

Empire reads [upright] true to me . . .


I'm with Bob. . .

I don't see a problem.

As stated - I believe your answers could be first found; in -

https://www.google.com/search?q=the+joy+of+cooking&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS779US7 79&oq=the+joy+of+cooking&aqs=chrome..69i57.6733j0j 8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Before any welder can understand your scrambled quandary . . .

Be clear: what are your weld joint/and weld [process] issues . . . ?

hth


Opus



.

[vdotmatrix]

What are you welding it with that it would be any kind of a problem? I's not like it's 16 gauge tubing.

No, but stuff i piece together for welding will have a very tight fit-up and not the caverns i will have to fill in, is why I presented what i thought were my options...thanks for responding!

[Welder Dave]

Actually the fit up with the rounded corners is pretty much the best fit up you could have. Makes for full penetration for maximum strength.

[smithdoor]

Just fill with welder
Some time a large hammer work for holes
This is not wood work
It is steel weld or hammer sometime both

Dave

This displays upside down...how aggravating. But you get the idea.

I am still working on my T-bar canoe support and just have to weld this and can prime and paint. NOT SO FAST. As you can see, there is alway a complication

i can weld the tube in place and build the sides up to fill the nightmare gaps.

I could grind a flat spot on the base, ugggg.

or I could notch out the tube to fit the base. ugggg

or, I could cut off a precise slice of tubing to fit either side.

ALWAYS SOMETHING..any ideas?


i have to get to a computer to post rhe two pictures, cannot do it from iphone

[vdotmatrix]

Actually the fit up with the rounded corners is pretty much the best fit up you could have. Makes for full penetration for maximum strength.

I need to post a better picture from the side(s).




This is what I have to work with.
(Sorry about how the images display).

[tapwelder]

That's better. Looks like the large radius on the heavy wall leaves a space between the butted thin wall tubing. And looks like the thick wall tubing is about .25 inch wider than the thin stuff. If critical and it has to be closed up, then I would shape thin tubing to mate with the heavy tubing. Though if not critical, I would weld it up as is.

[Welder Dave]

You could always run a bead on the thicker tube to fill up most of the gap and then run a 2nd pass to fill it. If it's not critical at all, lay a piece of round bar in the gap. In a shop you'd lay a 1/4" or 3/16" rod with the flux knocked off to fill a bigger gap.

[vdotmatrix]

That's better. Looks like the large radius on the heavy wall leaves a space between the butted thin wall tubing. And looks like the thick wall tubing is about .25 inch wider than the thin stuff. If critical and it has to be closed up, then I would shape thin tubing to mate with the heavy tubing. Though if not critical, I would weld it up as is.

Thank you for responding. Here is the other end. It will fit into the receiver of my hitch, thus the hole i drilled. The magnet at the 90 degree there is where a gusset I made will be welded. I may just weld the the surfaces that fit and then the gusset. I can always cut a scrap strip and pulse it in to fill in that gap and then grind smooth.

[vdotmatrix]

You could always run a bead on the thicker tube to fill up most of the gap and then run a 2nd pass to fill it. If it's not critical at all, lay a piece of round bar in the gap. In a shop you'd lay a 1/4" or 3/16" rod with the flux knocked off to fill a bigger gap.

yeah, that would be so much easier. 3/16” round stock, fit it in and weld it down. Awsome....

[farmersammm]

Very often, if the tubing has a large radius, you can fill the gap in two passes. I usually wind up having to do it quite a bit because 7018 doesn't like the necessary whipping to fill large gaps.

Put a bead in there to start the gap fill process

Then grind it back in order to have a uniform base for the finish pass. You have a nice base, and you don't have a lumpy filler pass.

Now you can lay the final pass in,, and it looks pretty decent if you take the time to do it right.

[Woznme]

I like to tig these with 1/16" wire in one pass. Fills it in up to flush. No grinding and if you lay a nice bead it's perty too.

[Kelvin]

Tack it good (in the middle of the joints) so it won't pull out of square due to weld shrinkage, then weld it up.

Next question?

[vdotmatrix]

Stick is inherently thicker than TIG. I did some stick at my father in law’s but Of the three , mig, tig and stick, i have the very least experience with stick; and my least favorite process. I have a few sticks of 7018, and i have no concerns of blowing a hole in the thick wall stuff....the vertical tube is much thinner, i think between 5 and 7 /64ths, , hate compounding the headache by having to go back and fix my fixes......thank you for responding

[vdotmatrix]

Tack it good (in the middle of the joints) so it won't pull out of square due to weld shrinkage, then weld it up.

Next question?

I am anxious to roll out of bed and get started. I was all ready yesterday until I found the gaps during fit up, the bottom of the thick wall has a slightly narrower straight section. Thank you for taking the time!

[Munkul]

Always the same with box section joints, but it's worse with heavier wall stuff.

Tack it well, weld the fillets first and then fill the gaps... all 3 welding processes will do this no problem.

[shovelon]

I sometimes tack a small insert into the thin tube to help keep the walls from melting back. Those joints can be challenging.

[Mr Earl]

How about welding a square piece of flat bar, maybe 3/16" thick, to the top of the horizontal tube, and then welding the vertical tube to that? Then you'd have a nice flush fit for the thinner tubing.

[Welder Dave]

I think some are over thinking this. Unless it's a real critical weld just tack a piece of rod in the gap and weld it up. That's what you'd do in a shop if you had a gap.

[villageblacksmith]

There are multiple ways of getting this welded, and I am neither discounting nor advocating the advice given. I just would like to mention how little grinding of the thinner tubing would actually be needed to achieve a LOT better fitup.

[shovelon]

I think some are over thinking this. Unless it's a real critical weld just tack a piece of rod in the gap and weld it up. That's what you'd do in a shop if you had a gap.

From what I see the arc is going to want to follow the path of least resistance. That would be the thin wall of the small tube. So that wall is going to want to go bye-bye if left open. Anything to close up the gap will take heat off the thin tube while building heat in the thick tube.