(HELP) Need advice on building door hinges.

[N2 Welding]

I would buy the hinges if they were available locally but I don’t see what I’m looking for locally. So I purchased the materials to build them instead. Materials consist of 10’ of 4”x1/4” flat stock and four pieces of 4” greasable german hinge joints or what ever they are called. The idea is to weld it all up so they will be able to close and have both sides rest on each other or as near as possible to each other. I have not begun mocking and cutting up the material yet and figured I’d ask incase some one has already done this or similar.

The flat bar of the hinges would preferably sit inside the shed like a regular door hinge with just the swivel part resting just outside of the trim on the door and side wall. They need to be at least 4.5” to 5” long in order to secure the doors and clear the door frame 2” x 4” wood with OSB backing and T1-11 siding as well as exterior finish trim. I looked at the hinges that are mounted on the outside but for the price I figured I could make four hinges and should end up with a heavier duty hinge that allows the look I’m after. The German hinge swivels are capable of holding 800 lbs each, plenty strong enough

images of the 4" German greasable hinge swivels purchased.

[N2 Welding]

I forgot to add that I have yet to build the door frames and sheet them. I’m waiting to build the doors until after I have the hinges so I’ll have a better idea how thick the hinges will be in the closed position.

[smithdoor]

I manufactured hinges for very large doors they are simple to build .
I even made roller bearing hinges.

Do you have a drawing or photo of the door you need hinges on so help you better.


Dave

I would buy the hinges if they were available locally but I don’t see what I’m looking for locally. So I purchased the materials to build them instead. Materials consist of 10’ of 4”x1/4” flat stock and four pieces of 4” greasable german hinge joints or what ever they are called. The idea is to weld it all up so they will be able to close and have both sides rest on each other or as near as possible to each other. I have not begun mocking and cutting up the material yet and figured I’d ask incase some one has already done this or similar.

The flat bar of the hinges would preferably sit inside the shed like a regular door hinge with just the swivel part resting just outside of the trim on the door and side wall. They need to be at least 4.5” to 5” long in order to secure the doors and clear the door frame 2” x 4” wood with OSB backing and T1-11 siding as well as exterior finish trim. I looked at the hinges that are mounted on the outside but for the price I figured I could make four hinges and should end up with a heavier duty hinge that allows the look I’m after. The German hinge swivels are capable of holding 800 lbs each, plenty strong enough

images of the 4" German greasable hinge swivels purchased.

[N2 Welding]

I manufactured hinges for very large doors they are simple to build .
I even made roller bearing hinges.

Do you have a drawing or photo of the door you need hinges on so help you better.


Dave

No drawings. Just winging it.

[ronsii]

I don't think I have ever seen those type of hinges used for wood construction... but don't know why they wouldn't work... I know on most of the stuff I do see then on they pretty much always bind a little... just from the frame/doors being so rigid and the bores are tight on the barrels of the hinges that even the slightest weld shrinkage will pull them ou of a perfect axis alignment... however with then being fastened to wood there should be plenty of 'give' so you won't even notice it as long as they are welded pretty close to straight

[ronsii]

I forgot to add that I have yet to build the door frames and sheet them. I’m waiting to build the doors until after I have the hinges so I’ll have a better idea how thick the hinges will be in the closed position.

Just mortise in a good size slot for them to sit in.... or have you though about cutting the plate in some sort of decorator shape and mount to the outside face of the door and building???

[ronsii]

Gonna assume you'll be welding them like this... yellow is weld joint red is holes I would put an offset bend in the steel about a half inch from the weld joint.. but probably isn't necessary since you'll more than likely mount them in between the framing...

[N2 Welding]

Not trying to mount on outside. Want the plates to be hidden with only the barrels exposed. Was trying to avoid any routerinf on the door or wall frames. I’ll do that as a last result.

[N2 Welding]

I had not planned or thought about notching the plates. Hmmm I see how that can help but would it weaken the plates or am I worrying too much since using 1/4” plate?

[ronsii]

I had not planned or thought about notching the plates. Hmmm I see how that can help but would it weaken the plates or am I worrying too much since using 1/4” plate?

You probably wouldn't have to notch them... as the hinge barrels have that bit of extra metal sticking out on one side should be plenty to give a bit of gap for the other barrel to rotate next to the plate.

[wb4rt]

You said shed, so is this like a tool shed or big workshop? How large and heavy are the doors? I have built hinges for my tool sheds with pipe and round rod. Double doors are 3’ wide framed with tube and skinned with OSB and vinyl siding. Work great and price is right. I can post pictures if you want to go low cost.

[N2 Welding]

After I build the hinges I’m going to have to figure out how to mount them in line with each other as well so they don’t bind. Speaking of binding perhaps I can spot weld them little by little like thin gauge material to stave off heat warpage of the hinges.

[N2 Welding]

You said shed, so is this like a tool shed or big workshop? How large and heavy are the doors? I have built hinges for my tool sheds with pipe and round rod. Double doors are 3’ wide framed with tube and skinned with OSB and vinyl siding. Work great and price is right. I can post pictures if you want to go low cost.

overall opening is about 5’ and yes double doors of roughly 2.5’ ea. It’s just a little 9’ x 13’ tool shed.

[N2 Welding]

@wb4rt any pictures that show the hinge build and how they are installed would be appreciated very much

[wb4rt]

Unless you expect lots of daily use, I would go with something like these. I have used them on 2 different sheds for about 8 years. I used 1/4” black pipe (because I always have some) with 5/16” rod (might have been 3/8”). I thread about 1 1/2” of the bottom of the rod and weld a washer on the top. I use some 1/8” flat for the straps. Drill and countersink the top and bottom straps for screws.

Start with 12” or so of pipe, lay the 3 straps along the pipe with 1/8” gap. Weld the straps on the pipe then cut the pipe into 3 pieces. That keeps the pieces lined up. Mark the pieces to keep in order.

The door frame is 1”x1 1/2” 14 gauge rectangle tube. I think I allowed 1/4” on both sides. Weld the middle straps at each end of frame. Then you can easily mount the frame in your rough opening allowing for thickness of materials covering the door. Take frame off, cover with 1/2” OSB or your choice. Then re-hang the doors. Weld nut on end for security. Hinges are almost invisible.

I’m sorry for the picture orientation. I can never get it right. Feel free to fix if you know how.







Also, use 3/8” pipe and rod for a cane to lock one side. Easy to fabricate.



Then a sliding padlock latch keeps the other door flush and secure. A hasp allows them to flop around.

I hope this helps. I can post more pictures if you want.

[N2 Welding]

Thank you wb4rt. I see how you used three straps per hinge. Hopefully I’ll be able to use the materials I already purchased. The shed looks good btw

[N2 Welding]

Would 1/2” gap at the top and bottom of both doors be enough or too much? I want to plan and allow for some sag in the future but Will do my best to build it so there is no sag.

[wb4rt]

Oh, very important- make some little brackets for the top inside of the doors so you can use a PVC pipe to hold doors open while you back lawnmower out or working in the yard. The PVC hangs down when closed then swings up and attaches overhead to bracket on other door. Lightweight but strong enough to hold doors open.

[wb4rt]

Would 1/2” gap at the top and bottom of both doors be enough or too much? I want to plan and allow for some sag in the future but Will do my best to build it so there is no sag.

1/2” at top and bottom should be fine for the frame. Then you can cut the skin fit a little tighter if necessary.

I have not had any sag. The steel frame and OSB are pretty rigid.


(Like my weather vane I made?)

[N2 Welding]

I’m not sure yet but I may overlap the siding skin at the bottom to cover the gaps and keep the weather out of the shed as much as possible. The door frame naturally will need to clear the swing. The top will probably be flush with shed frame with slight gap for clearance issues. Hard to explain but I’ll show pics when the doors are done.

[walker]

Hmmm, if only there were some sort of dimensionally stable, rigid material that could easily be cut and joined together and had hinges made out of the same material to make doors out of instead of wood...

Really, just make the frames out of steel and weld the hinges you have on it. Sheet the doors with whatever you want.

[wb4rt]

Thank you wb4rt. I see how you used three straps per hinge. Hopefully I’ll be able to use the materials I already purchased. The shed looks good btw

I know those are nice hinges, but I’m struggling to see how to use on a shed door. I messed up a couple like that trying to use on a trailer ramp. It seems the thickness of the door may be a problem.

Could you weld the flats to a strap, similar to my straps, then weld/screw the straps to frame and jamb?

[N2 Welding]

I know those are nice hinges, but I’m struggling to see how to use on a shed door. I messed up a couple like that trying to use on a trailer ramp. It seems the thickness of the door may be a problem.

Could you weld the flats to a strap, similar to my straps, then weld/screw the straps to frame and jamb?

I'm working on figuring out how to weld them up now. I might just sandwich a couple pices of 1/4" shims between the plates prior to welding then maybe tack some 1/4" shims on one of the plates to make the hinges have a solid stop so the doors won't pull on the mounting hardware " Screws/bolts " I'm currently working on a buzz and watching videos on the Dewalt Tough System 2.0 radio. I need some good tunes for future projects Edit: Dewalts Tough System 2.0 radio has halted production due to mulitiple problems and returns. Looks like I'll be wating a while for the radio to be re-rereleased.

[ronsii]

Just remember if you weld them like this pic with the full offset you'll have to leave the barrel sticking out past the finish siding by the barrel diameter plus a little for the siding if you want then to open fully flat against the siding( face to face)

[N2 Welding]

Just remember if you weld them like this pic with the full offset you'll have to leave the barrel sticking out past the finish siding by the barrel diameter plus a little for the siding if you want then to open fully flat against the siding( face to face)

Yes that is exactly what I want to be able to do. I plan on having a hook on the wall of the shed toward the roof overhang so that I can loop a rope or something from the door to the shed to hold them in the open position as flat against the shed as possible.