Hobart g213 welder

[ronsii]

You get fuel to the Wisconsin,and the crank start is pretty easy..These things are all about running slow,and making power there..

My old grader is a little more finicky... besides the fuel you need to make sure the points in the magneto are freshly filed... then you better have a good grip on the crank!!! not too bad the hand start but can give you a workout

[12V71]

My old grader is a little more finicky... besides the fuel you need to make sure the points in the magneto are freshly filed... then you better have a good grip on the crank!!! not too bad the hand start but can give you a workout

Which engine does that one have? Looks like 2 exhaust stacks in the pic, old IH TD-18 engine?

[Brand X]

My points came pre-filed. Even the cap was still loose.. It's like there is a Sacred all over these things, and everyone of them has been turned by someone along the way..

[forhire]

My points came pre-filed. Even the cap was still loose.. It's like there is a Sacred all over these things, and everyone of them has been turned by someone along the way..

That's the truth. My distributor wasn't even installed far enough to engage the worm.

I attacked the brushes today. After about 10 minutes of increasingly heavy mallet blows I was finally able to remove the cover. Rusted super tight. All the lower brushes were rusted solid on both sets of windings. The upper brushes moved but the tensioniors were rusted solid. I loosened up all the tensioners and freed up all but two of the AC power brushes. I ended up removing the brush holders and carefully knocking out the stuck brushes at the vise. I picked up some fresh evaporust and left the parts to soak. It was promising to see the original zinc coating under the rusted fasteners, this gives me hope that the electrically the rest of the machine will be fine once I have brushes that make contact.

The mess I found under the cover.


The brush holders are a rusty mess.


New crystal clear evaporust. It won't be for long.


The collector rings have some minor scarring and the manual suggests polishing with 00 flint paper. Who uses flint paper these days? Can I touch them up with 180 emery cloth instead? I assume they call for flint paper to prevent aluminum oxide impregnation in the ring and the non conductive dust?

[ronsii]

Which engine does that one have? Looks like 2 exhaust stacks in the pic, old IH TD-18 engine?

UD16 if I remember right....~100hp and yep... 3 cylinders per can

[Brand X]

My cover had the screw loose from the owner before. Cover came off first time it started up with gas..

[12V71]

UD16 if I remember right....~100hp and yep... 3 cylinders per can

Ah, the 16 was a bit smaller than the 18 they used in the TD-18 crawlers, IH sold tons of 16's to various grader builders. Granddad had an Adams grader with 2 stacks, so I imagine that was the powerplant. In the mid 60's he had a bunch of TD-18s too that pulled cable scrapers. I don't recall anybody ever hand cranking them though.
I do remember the warmup on gas and switch over to diesel. Been there with a pet IH-Farmall 400 I had for awhile.

[ronsii]

Ah, the 16 was a bit smaller than the 18 they used in the TD-18 crawlers, IH sold tons of 16's to various grader builders. Granddad had an Adams grader with 2 stacks, so I imagine that was the powerplant. In the mid 60's he had a bunch of TD-18s too that pulled cable scrapers. I don't recall anybody ever hand cranking them though.
I do remember the warmup on gas and switch over to diesel. Been there with a pet IH-Farmall 400 I had for awhile.

Oh!!! I use the electric start when I can but I have cranked it a couple times by hand(long ago )... and it's not something for the muscle impaired I keep the crank in the back tool box it fit in the hole bottom center of the radiator.. I think you can see it in that pic. It's been sitting there for probably a year now... I didn't have time to use it last year it needs a lot of TLC and other stuff but still runs ok I wish I had a newer one with all the bells and whistles... and a torque converter.... and powershift....and etc.... but oh well it is what it is

[forhire]

I finished zinc plating the exciter brush holders. The color improved after I added a little brightener solution. I'm much happier with this finish than what I obtained on the distributor parts. I still need to do all the small hardware, nuts, bolts, and etc. I haven't decided how hard it will be to remove the commutator brush holders. The brush holders are free but they are rusty. You can see how pitted these parts were due to heavy rust.

[12V71]

That's an amazing transformation.

[ronsii]

That's an amazing transformation.

Yep!!!!, those parts are ready for their second life of 60 years plus

[forhire]

That's an amazing transformation.

Yep!!!!, those parts are ready for their second life of 60 years plus

Thanks!

[12V71]

Thanks!

Just curious, if you used the Evaporust before disassembly will it make stuff come apart more easily?

[forhire]

Just curious, if you used the Evaporust before disassembly will it make stuff come apart more easily?

Evaporust will generally free up stuff that can't otherwise be cleaned up. It works it's way in between the parts fairly well. I did a radius dresser that was completely rusted and was impressed by the results. https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthrea...51#post4855451

I ended up disassembling the brush holders before soaking them because I didn't know if Evaporust would attack the carbon brushes.

[forhire]

I finished plating all the nuts, bolts, and washers. I don't know what's in the brightener solution but it definitely brightened up the zinc. Everything went back together without any issues. The exciter brushes are 1.375" (34.9mm) long when new so I measured the brushes and they are practically new. I set the springs to the first notch, same as they were before, because the brushes are nearly new. It now makes both AC and DC power. I picked up a voltage and frequency gauge off Amazon for $15 and it showed it's running a little fast. I still need time the engine and sent my high/low rpm limit stops. I also need to figure out why it's not charging, presently it's running off the battery. I suspect the voltage regulators.






Here's it running.

[forhire]

I have the 12V charging system sorted out. After testing the stator coil, rectifier, and regulator, and them all testing good, I found a broken wire on the ammeter. I am very happy. I priced out the YJ-58 rectifier and the YJ-60 regulator last night and was fearing the worst.

I sent Hobart my spec number (4130C) and they supplied me with the correct manual. I have now confirmed this vintage doesn't have any fuses on the AC output.

I'm almost ready for paint.

[Brand X]

Good job.and be sure to see how it welds..

I have mine running again.. Just ditched the leaking fuel bowl filter for a in-line one for now.. The tank cleaned out nice with Vinegar/bolt/nuts rinse..Just need to change the oil, and pick up a hose for the air-filter to carb.. Mine does not seem to need any carb work Also a couple of lugs to setup my welding leads.. I have all dinse, and no where to be found on this unit.. I don't think dinse was born yet..

PS, no paint just all patina

[mla2ofus]

I have the 12V charging system sorted out. After testing the stator coil, rectifier, and regulator, and them all testing good, I found a broken wire on the ammeter. I am very happy. I priced out the YJ-58 rectifier and the YJ-60 regulator last night and was fearing the worst.

I sent Hobart my spec number (4130C) and they supplied me with the correct manual. I have now confirmed this vintage doesn't have any fuses on the AC output.

I'm almost ready for paint.

I've been told by ones who know to not overload the unfused 120v circuit as it leaks the smoke out very easily.

[ronsii]

I have the 12V charging system sorted out. After testing the stator coil, rectifier, and regulator, and them all testing good, I found a broken wire on the ammeter. I am very happy. I priced out the YJ-58 rectifier and the YJ-60 regulator last night and was fearing the worst.

I sent Hobart my spec number (4130C) and they supplied me with the correct manual. I have now confirmed this vintage doesn't have any fuses on the AC output.

I'm almost ready for paint.

Sounds like it would behoove you to add one of the cheap push button breakers of whatever the output is supposed to be rated at.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/5A-10A-15A-...wAAOSwPF9cbZ9d



Glad to hear about the broken wire... I like those kinds of fixes

[Brand X]

Mine welds nice, just lacking on the 120 volt output..(90-91 volts 60 HZ) Really only one side outputs from what I can tell.. The welder part handle the load, and the switch part works. Not like a Miller AEAD because you still have to set the High RPM welding speed with the throttle, It just adjusts for welding load with the switch in the welding mode setting.

[forhire]

Good job.and be sure to see how it welds..

I have mine running again.. Just ditched the leaking fuel bowl filter for a in-line one for now.. The tank cleaned out nice with Vinegar/bolt/nuts rinse..Just need to change the oil, and pick up a hose for the air-filter to carb.. Mine does not seem to need any carb work Also a couple of lugs to setup my welding leads.. I have all dinse, and no where to be found on this unit.. I don't think dinse was born yet..

PS, no paint just all patina

I should have it welding in the morning. I took a bit of muscle to break the DC lugs free. Once again I was wishing I had a mini-ductor. I think I have a set of leads to try it. I'll eventually put some dinse connectors on it. The original patina is kinda growing on me.

I've been told by ones who know to not overload the unfused 120v circuit as it leaks the smoke out very easily.

I think I'll add some fuses. I've been comparing my schematic with the later fused models and it appears to be a straightforward modification. The manual states a 12 amp limit but it's fused 15 amps. 3kW is about 13.5 amps... if my quick math is right. 15 amps is right at 125%. Not sure if it should be fused at 12 amps or 15 amps.

Sounds like it would behoove you to add one of the cheap push button breakers of whatever the output is supposed to be rated at.
Glad to hear about the broken wire... I like those kinds of fixes

That's a great idea. Quick and easy install.

Mine welds nice, just lacking on the 120 volt output..(90-91 volts 60 HZ) Really only one side outputs from what I can tell.. The welder part handle the load, and the switch part works. Not like a Miller AEAD because you still have to set the High RPM welding speed with the throttle, It just adjusts for welding load with the switch in the welding mode setting.

Looking at schematic the switch appears to simply load a couple 100 ohm resistors, one has a variable tap. Likely to help balance the generator when making AC only power. We'll see how it does after I get it timed, it took a while to find my timing light. And after I set the hi/low rpm.

[Brand X]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HB8GCJC...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[forhire]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HB8GCJC...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the link, I added them to my cart.

I buttoned up the machine this morning. I set the timing with the light, but honestly it likely wasn't needed, I was pretty darn near dead on before I started, just by ear. I set my high and low throttle stops and adjusted the governor linkage. If you recall I had to make a new linkage and I was fretting the adjustments but the adjustments turned out to be super simple. I put on the sheet metal and installed the oil bath air cleaner... but not before tripping over it and spilling the oil on the apron in front of the shop.

Last night I really had to put the muscle to the DC lugs to get them free. The were super rusted on. This morning I zinc plated what was left of the nuts, chased the lugs with a die, and gave them a quick slather of nickel anti-seize before throwing on an old set of leads. That should keep them easy to remove.

Luckily, after all this hard work, it burns rod just fine. I have some dead spots in the fine adjust rheostat but I'm thinking it will clear up with use. I may hit it with a brush next time I have the cover off. I still need to install some fuses.

Thanks for all the help. I don't think I would have been able to turn it around so quickly without the manuals and assistance. I definitely have learned a lot. It has been fun. Now I'm itching to try it side by side the Trailblazer 300D.

What do you figure a running machine, with the current patina, is worth? I'm not looking to sell it. Just curious if I came out upside down. Of course the education was worth every penny. It's been fun.

[Brand X]

Got my air filter somewhat cleaned, but at least it's hooked up now.. Put in fresh oil in the crankcase too.. Only need to sort the other 120 volt side on this rig.. Voltage is about the same as yours now. I can run a 13 amp test saw, and grinder off of the rig, and it welds nice the little bit I did.. Fine control works I was at 3 tap and max fine for some 1/8 stainless rod i tried,, Maybe 130 amps, but need to meter it test where things are for sure..The power HZ is running about 62 hz unloaded, and fall to a bit over 58 HZ with a 13 amp draw on the 120 volt leg.. Not sure if that is correct, but close enough for drills grinders/etc.. Main thing it does work as a welding machine..

Just going to clean the sludge off the engine, and use it here, and there.. The inverter stick machines I have are excellent, but using the old tech 1945 machine is satisfying in it's own way..Maybe I will hook up my LN-25 pro feeder, and make it high tech after all.


Price is whatever some old farmer will give you for it.. I paid $500 for mine, but only because I can make payments over time.. It was the guy's fathers rig, and he was moving to Idaho the next day.. I probably would of forked out no more then $200-300 if I had to come up with cash right then.. I am guessing I am sitting on a $600 rig right now, with a chance to get a bit more out of it with the right buyer.. I know I bought a AEHD 200 Miller for $800 that was a pretty good shape old gal. That was 14 years ago, and it would sell for more then that now,, I had one of the first ranger 305 g machines, and it was a pretty nice rig.. In some ways the crank start Hobart more enjoyable to own. Not selling it either.

[forhire]

The power HZ is running about 62 hz unloaded, and fall to a bit over 58 HZ with a 13 amp draw on the 120 volt leg.. Not sure if that is correct, but close enough for drills grinders/etc.. Main thing it does work as a welding machine.

I ended up cleaning my air cleaner in the parts washer. It cleaned up real nice. I installed it, topped up the oil, and it didn't run away so I must have it right. Like you I'm running about around 62 Hz unloaded. I'd expect on a machine this size to see some fluctuation +/- 5% which doesn't worry me in the least. The manual says you can use the AC power while welding but the frequency is all over the place, even then I doubt a grinder would be bothered.

Years ago I had a 4" grinder that had the cooling fan explode, I sent it back to Milwaukee for warranty repair, but after the repair it didn't run as fast when I tested it. Later I was using it and it was going great until the fan exploded again. That's when it dawned on my to check the outlet voltage... yup it was wired to a wild leg, which is something like 208V to neutral. Crazy thing, that was my favorite grinder... when it was running on the wild leg.

I paid $75 bucks for this machine. I spent may be another $150 bucks on parts, cleaners, and etc. Out of pocket I did fine.

I'm thinking about making a handle for mine. Here is my initial design.