Portable stick welder, use around the farm on extension cord..

[KYBOY]

Hey all. Ive got a lot of welding to do around my farm coming up. Ive got good machines in my shop but their too big to move on site, not to mention Im not making a 100' 50 amp cord. Ive got two shops within 100'-150' of my project sites. Both have several dedicated 20 amp circuits so no problem there. I dont have a generator welder anymore. Ive looked at several inverters that run on 110v but most have low amps and high draws on 110v. Ive found one that looks promising. The Esab Rogue 180. It specifically says it can be ran on up to 300' of extension cord and is generator rated. Im mostly looking at running the machine on a 100' 10/3 cord.
So any thoughts on the esab 180? or if theres another machine at or below that price range that will do what Im looking for Id like to hear about it. Thanks

[cwby]

You could just get a long set of welding leads & use the machines in the shop if you are within 100' - 200' of the project. I use up to 300' of lead with mine all the time. May have to bump the current up 5 amps to make it weld right.

[MinnesotaDave]

That ESAB Rogue should fit the bill nicely.

I use a Thermal Arc 161 for just what you are talking about.

Runs 1/8" 6011 and 3/32" 7018 very well on 120v 100' extension cord.

I don't do that very often, but it does happen.

Normally I can get anything I want close to the shop or just use the Bobcat engine drive if needed (it sometimes is the power for the Thermal Arc).

Cool thing though is the machine doesn't care what power is sent to it. So the 120v extension cord can be plugged into a redneck adapter to turn it into a 240v extension cord.

[shortfuse]

Or....combine cwby's and Minnesota Dave's suggestions and use a combo of extension cord and long leads. Maybe 50-75' of extension cord and 50-100' of leads or any combo of those. That way you minimize the voltage drop in both.

[Oscar]

You could just get a long set of welding leads & use the machines in the shop if you are within 100' - 200' of the project. I use up to 300' of lead with mine all the time. May have to bump the current up 5 amps to make it weld right.

I think specifically does not want to do that, and prefers an extension cord if I read his post correctly.

KYBOY, keep in mind that on 120V, you still need 30A circuit to get the most of the welder. 120V @ 20A input power is 90-100A max. Not even enough to run a 1/8" 7018. Bump it up to 30A and now you're talking, ~ 130-140A, depending on inverter power source efficiency.

[ttoks]

really any small basic stick/scratch start TIG machine will do the job, I have a 170 amp UNIMIG for exactly this, but really any brand you can get for within whatever your budget is will do the job.

Other option is maybe see if you can get a deal on a small engine drive welder, my uncle recently picked up an old lincoln machine with a holden 161 CI engine for $200 in good working order, and I recently bought a CIG one with a honda engine used for $900.

[mla2ofus]

Hindsight probably is in play as to why we got rid of the portable.

[Kelvin]

Rather than adding enough leads to weld 150-300' away from the welder, I think I'd just build a new shop 150-300' closer to the project. It would be cheaper.

[nick121]

I have a little princess auto pro point 170 amp stick welder inverter, (rebranded razorweld)i use it all the time on a generator. The genny puts out 5500 continuous watts and 6500 surge. No problem burning 1/8th 7018. It will even run at full 170 but its pushing the gen hard.
It will run on 120 volt as well and burn a 3/32 but i ussualy trip breakers

[Kevin_Essiambre]

Know anyone with a generator you could borrow?

I'd either go with the long leads from the shop, or just rent a 20kw generator to run the welder... depends which one is cheaper in the end.

Oh, do you have a tractor? Maybe it's time to invest in a PTO generator haha

[BD1]

I think you're dreaming ifvyou think those 20 amp 110 volt circuits will work. It maybe of for a few rods depending on amp settings.
Ask your supplier to test that Esab.
I think you should check with Esab on that 300'. To me, it appears they say 300' of extension CABLES and not CORDS.
I didn't think you're gonna get much out of a 20 amp dedicated circuit.
Do a search on Weldingweb about that. You'll see that it's not the best, especially on higher amps. Duty cycle will be short.


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[Oldendum]

Looking at the manual, the ESAB 180 seems to be pretty efficient with good power factor. Should be similar to the Thermal Arc 161. But as Oscar says, 20A will limit you. On 120v or 240v, the unit would like 26A for full output.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/18...page=12#manual

[KYBOY]

all I really need this machine to do is burn 3/32 6011 rods. out on these projects anyway. . I dont think it will have a problem with 60-65 amps. I could always use my 10/3 cord as a 220v cord too. I have access to 220v if I wanted it bad enough. Id have to make adapters for my cord though. I know well what its like using 110v machines on 20 amp circuits. We had to use lincoln 140's on 110v circuits on a job for over three months once putting up 1/8" plate in seg cells because its the only pwoer source we had there.. Not ideal but it worked.
Im thinking about the esab because its very efficient and has power correction. If i get it I have to order it. Theres only one supplier within many miles and they dont carry easb so no way I can test it. I live in a very rural area. One nice thing is there is no codes out here No permits.

[KYBOY]

I think specifically does not want to do that, and prefers an extension cord if I read his post correctly.

KYBOY, keep in mind that on 120V, you still need 30A circuit to get the most of the welder. 120V @ 20A input power is 90-100A max. Not even enough to run a 1/8" 7018. Bump it up to 30A and now you're talking, ~ 130-140A, depending on inverter power source efficiency.

yea I thought about that too. I can slap in more circuits as I need them so thats no problem. I could make adapters to use my 10/3 cord for 220v too I guess.

[M J D]

If you have access to 220 I would go that route. Make up the adapter and go for it. On my 161 esab the arc force seemed lower running off 110. I believe even if your getting the amps you need, higher arc force requires more wattage since the voltage is higher.

[Oscar]

If you have access to 220 I would go that route. Make up the adapter and go for it. On my 161 esab the arc force seemed lower running off 110. I believe even if your getting the amps you need, higher arc force requires more wattage since the voltage is higher.

On my incredibly cheap stick welder I noticed that same exact characteristic. Same amperage, but there was lower heat in the weld, and the slag just wasn't being pushed back as far so that led me to believe the arc voltage was quite a bit lower.

One can always set-up a voltage transformer to use "240V" off a 120V circuit to regain that missing arc voltage. You're still limited by the 2400W set by the 20A breaker, which is about 90-100A welding amperage (depending on the machine), but at least you get that nice crisp arc voltage back that you otherwise wouldn't have with the machine seeing 120V at it's input.

[KYBOY]

If you have access to 220 I would go that route. Make up the adapter and go for it. On my 161 esab the arc force seemed lower running off 110. I believe even if your getting the amps you need, higher arc force requires more wattage since the voltage is higher.

I agree the more I think about it Id just like to have a viable option with my 110v if it came down to it. Something that would at least "work".. Thats what's bringing ,me around to the esab because its known to work better on 110v than others. I thought for a long time about a everlast 200st and I know they weld great on 220v but Ive heard and read they draw a lot of amps on 110v.

[M J D]

I agree the more I think about it Id just like to have a viable option with my 110v if it came down to it. Something that would at least "work".. Thats what's bringing ,me around to the esab because its known to work better on 110v than others. I thought for a long time about a everlast 200st and I know they weld great on 220v but Ive heard and read they draw a lot of amps on 110v.

I really like my 161 esab, had it 6-7 years now. If it died on me I would buy the Esab 180 in a heartbeat. The reviews I've seen have been very positive.

[KYBOY]

I really like my 161 esab, had it 6-7 years now. If it died on me I would buy the Esab 180 in a heartbeat. The reviews I've seen have been very positive.

Ive heard nothing but good about the small esab inverters. I hate to pester you but have you ran your 161 on 110v?

[M J D]

Very little when I first got it . I could run 3/32" 7018 but it would kick the breaker after a while. I hated the pvc like cord that it came with and replaced it with I think, sjow cord, 30' of 10 gauge. I have access to 220 for everything I need it for so it's all I use it for now. Another thing about the esabs is they are a really nice lift tig machine as well. I also upgraded my stinger and work leads along with brass ground clamp and tweco stinger. Main reason for that upgrade is they were too short for work off a ladder.

[shortfuse]

KYBOY, you can't go wrong with the ESAB inverters, 161 or 180. I've had a 161 for about 5-6 years now, and it has been a great welder. When I first got it, I only had 110 in my shop, so I had to do all my welding on that voltage. After a couple of years, I finally upgraded to 220 and never looked back. The 161 welds great on either 110 or 220, but I stick (no pun intended) with the 220 for more amperage, particularly with 1/8" rods.

As a side note, my experience with ESAB customer service has been excellent. I don't know if it's changed any recently, but when my 161 Miniarc LTS was one month from the end of the 3 year warranty, it started acting strange...popping noise on startup. I called my LWS who I bought the welder from and told them what the welder was doing. The guy told me to give him a day to check with ESAB. The next morning, he called me back and told me to come by the store and pick up a new 161...amazing!!! ESAB told him that they would rather give me a new welder than take the time to go through all the shipping and repair time. They had a new welder on the counter in two days with a free auto helmet thrown in for good measure. Can't beat that. The new welder, since it was a replacement under the original 3 year warranty, didn't have an additional 3 year warranty, but I didn't care...l had a new welder. It's still clocking right along.

[Brand X]

That ESAB Rogue should fit the bill nicely.

I use a Thermal Arc 161 for just what you are talking about.

Runs 1/8" 6011 and 3/32" 7018 very well on 120v 100' extension cord.

I don't do that very often, but it does happen.

Normally I can get anything I want close to the shop or just use the Bobcat engine drive if needed (it sometimes is the power for the Thermal Arc).

Cool thing though is the machine doesn't care what power is sent to it. So the 120v extension cord can be plugged into a redneck adapter to turn it into a 240v extension cord.

The Thermal-arc 161i has PFC,ans is a very nice 120 volt welder.

[smithdoor]

I would look at a generator or gas welder.
In construction I used cables upto 100 feet but the welding was off the ground., AG welding is on ground but it can over 100 or more acres.

Dave

Hey all. Ive got a lot of welding to do around my farm coming up. Ive got good machines in my shop but their too big to move on site, not to mention Im not making a 100' 50 amp cord. Ive got two shops within 100'-150' of my project sites. Both have several dedicated 20 amp circuits so no problem there. I dont have a generator welder anymore. Ive looked at several inverters that run on 110v but most have low amps and high draws on 110v. Ive found one that looks promising. The Esab Rogue 180. It specifically says it can be ran on up to 300' of extension cord and is generator rated. Im mostly looking at running the machine on a 100' 10/3 cord.
So any thoughts on the esab 180? or if theres another machine at or below that price range that will do what Im looking for Id like to hear about it. Thanks

[MinnesotaDave]

yea I thought about that too. I can slap in more circuits as I need them so thats no problem. I could make adapters to use my 10/3 cord for 220v too I guess.

Nice thing is only need adapter on the input end.
The machine end can just use the 120v plug - the welder won't care.
Just don't forget it's 240v coming out

[MinnesotaDave]

The Thermal-arc 161i has PFC,ans is a very nice 120 volt welder.

Correct