Getting scared of my compressor!

[Bistineau]

If nothing else, just get a Hydrostatic test done to help put your mind at ease about whether it will hold up for a few more years. It will cost less if you can take it to their shop.

[76GMC1500]

It's easy enough to do the hydrotest yourself if you get a hand pump. Simply fill the tank to the top with water, pressurize to 150% of MAWP (max allowable working pressure). If the tank is rated for 150 psi, test to 225. If it's rated for 200 psi, test to 300. Do this once every 5 years.

[Warpspeed]

The tank should have stamped onto it somewhere, the original hydrostatic test pressure, and the date and maybe a serial number.

Just hydrostatic test it to the same original test pressure.

[76GMC1500]

They aren't stamped with the hydro test pressure, they're stamped with the MAWP, You have to exceed the MAWP to qualify a tank in a hydro test.

[ttyR2]

The Curtis setup I have is from 1945. I just rebuilt the compressor a couple years ago and an inspection of the tank with a remote camera looked good. Mild pitting, no flaking or other obvious defects. The compressor spins slow, cranks out around 18cfm all day long. I'm thrilled.

[gcnettl]

if you know someone that will do a UT, or digital thickness test, you could do that.

Or go the inspection camera route, but if it is rusted on the I.D., you will see rust but not know how much wall is there.

Explosion is not likely unless there is trapped oil or some kind of gas in there. Its not like its a compressed gas cylinder under 2k p.s.i., So if a hole were to blowout, it would scare you and blow dust and maybe some moisture around, but would be no different than you opening a .25" drain valve to bleed it out anyway.

[Stick-man]

It's easy enough to do the hydrotest yourself if you get a hand pump. Simply fill the tank to the top with water, pressurize to 150% of MAWP (max allowable working pressure). If the tank is rated for 150 psi, test to 225. If it's rated for 200 psi, test to 300. Do this once every 5 years.

Is this really all there is to it? Any recommendations on an inexpensive pump? I will probably be inheriting a Champion 10hp 120gal horizontal, from my family business. It has to be at least 35years old. I would like to make sure it is ok before I go thru all the work of moving & storing it until I move and get a shop.

[76GMC1500]

Any hand pump with a "gauge you can trust" is all you need.

I use style D at work. It's cheesy but gets the job done. You don't need a big pump even to do big tanks. If it takes any significant volume of water to generate pressure it's because you have air in the tank and need to do a better job of bleeding it because air will make the tank go bang if it does rupture. I've hydro tested 100+ gallon air tanks while still installed in the system. You just close all valves, pull the plug on top, and stick a garden hose in there. When you're done, open the drain valve.

[awright]

I fully agree with the previous posters urging you to have the tank hydrotested. I've used several salvaged compressor tanks of unknown provenance and had each hydrotested by my fire extinguisher service shop. Cost $15, and well worth the peace of mind. They couldn't handle one larger tank and sent me to a competitor who could handle it.

However, I'm not too confident of the 150% of maximum service pressure mentioned by 76GMC1500. I think the standard multiplier used for fire extinguishers is larger, and that's what I had them test to. I don't actually remember the proof pressure since the last one I had done was a decade or more ago.

The home brew test might be better than nothing and, I think, better than a visual inspection. However, I think a proper hydrotest involves measurement of the amount of swelling AND RECOVERY of the tank at the proof pressure. This involves submerging the tank in a larger vessel of water and measuring the amount of water displaced while pressurizing the tank under test. (Not absolutely sure about this.)

For the moderate cost of a test, I'd leave it to the professionals and get their recommendation regarding safety factor. But, to repeat myself, if you have any doubts at all, the peace of mind is well worth the cost.

There have been discussions previously here in which people say don't worry, a deteriorated tank will just spring a leak, not burst. I don't buy it. At least, I'm not going to bet my life on it.

In the army helicopter repair shop I worked in 50 years ago, a guy who had apparently been sleeping in repair school tried to take the dings out of a 20-gallon, light-gauge aluminum fuel tank off an H-13 by pressurizing it with a shop air hose. No one, including the perp, knew what pressure the tank blew at, but it split full length down one side. We all thought a bomb had gone off. Sent him to the hospital for a few days. Don't gamble.

awright

[mla2ofus]

if you know someone that will do a UT, or digital thickness test, you could do that.

Or go the inspection camera route, but if it is rusted on the I.D., you will see rust but not know how much wall is there.

Explosion is not likely unless there is trapped oil or some kind of gas in there. Its not like its a compressed gas cylinder under 2k p.s.i., So if a hole were to blowout, it would scare you and blow dust and maybe some moisture around, but would be no different than you opening a .25" drain valve to bleed it out anyway.

I think you should read this.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...light=mla2ofus
Mike

[Stick-man]

However, I think a proper hydrotest involves measurement of the amount of swelling AND RECOVERY of the tank at the proof pressure. This involves submerging the tank in a larger vessel of water and measuring the amount of water displaced while pressurizing the tank under test. (Not absolutely sure about this.)

This is what I thought when I was learning about hydro on scuba cylinders. But then, when 76GMC1500 posted, I thought maybe with the large tanks like 120 gallons, they just use a pump. I will have to call my Champion dealer and ask how they go about it. If it's only like $25.00 or so, I think it would be worth me having it done, even if I have to remove the motor and pump.

[Bistineau]

This is what I thought when I was learning about hydro on scuba cylinders. But then, when 76GMC1500 posted, I thought maybe with the large tanks like 120 gallons, they just use a pump. I will have to call my Champion dealer and ask how they go about it. If it's only like $25.00 or so, I think it would be worth me having it done, even if I have to remove the motor and pump.

You don't have to remove the motor and pump, just disconnect and plug any hoses, fittings and relief valves that won't stand up to test pressure. 150% of MAWP is the standard that needs to be tested to, more than that is not needed or recommended. I still say it woukd be best to have a certified service center perform this test for you if you are not 100% certain of what you are doing. They may also have the nece
ssary camera equipment to do an internal inspection, too.
Someone mentioned using a cheap pump and gauge to DIY it. A cheap pump may not make the needed presure, and a cheap gauge may not be accurate either.

[Renagade]

Mr CEP
I Run Your Model # And Serial Number Through Our Service Dept This Morning -
You Have What Was Know To Us As A CA5 Pump - From Italy - The Tank Is Either A Brunner ( IN ) Or Buckeye ( OH ) - Your Unit Was Package Here August 1988 ( we get tank already welded ) And Just Add Componets To It To Make Package - In 1991 We Discontinue This Model - As Far As Oil Leak - Their Is A Bottom Plate On Compressor That May Have Worked Loose - Our Service Dept. Didn't Think The Tank Would Be A Problem - They Commended You On The Apperance Of Your Unit For Its Age - Best Of Luck With Your Unit Maybe It Will Run Another 20 Yrs - Thanks

[CEP]

Dam I would have swore I bought that thing in 1984! See what old age will do to you?
Thank you so very much for all your help!

[76GMC1500]

Remember, scuba tanks are aluminum and high pressure. They have a much different DOT standard. ASME pressure vessels such as air tanks are steel simply have to hold 150% of MAWP without rupture. This isn't some redneck test, this is how tanks are qualified. It is safe... if you don't have any large pockets of air. If the tank ruptures, it's going to make some noise. You may get wet. You aren't going to get hurt. Just use a few feet of hose as a safety precaution.

[MoonRise]

Note also:

Commercial use (business, shop, whatever) may trigger/require certain other inspection(s) for pressure vessels, depending on your locale and the pressure vessel requirments in that locale.

Examples:

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/pressurevessels/index.html

http://www.nclabor.com/boiler/boiler_faq2.htm

http://www.dlt.ri.gov/occusafe/pdfs/boilerregs.pdf

[Stick-man]

Remember, scuba tanks are aluminum and high pressure.

I have alum and steel scuba cylinders, just FYI.

[machinist68]

Here's a couple pictures of the pump.

I realize that this post is a decade old but I'm hoping that the original poster is still here. I have this exact same compressor which came into my possession from my fathers estate. After bringing it home and replacing my former compressor with it I fired it up and it is a definite upgrade. before situating it in my shop I cleaned it up and took a look at the condition of the belts and the air filter both of which need replaced and I changed out the oil with a 30wt non detergent for lack of an alternative at the time and I also drained the tank but there was little water in the tank. The original identification plate is still on the unit but there is no date of manufacture on it. The model number is #IR5T80V1W/STR . I'd really like to know what grade of oil to use and the belt and filter size if anyone out there knows. I've also sent a message to Ingersoll Rand requesting archived user manual data for the unit.

[walker]

.edited

[pepi]

Compressor oil is very common and easy to find, home depot, ace, any place selling compressors, Northern tool, might have the filter element also.

Belt remove and carry to auto zombie. Go behind the counter find the size. Buy one size smaller, one exact and one larger, 2 will go back. The stretch in the belt will/could throw you, the reason for 3 belts.