I certainly can’t add anything to psa’s comments as I have already implemented several of his suggestions after reading in previous posts. (Thanks, Pat!)
However....to those that have or choose to use an abrasive chop saw, here are my suggestions which I find work well.
The fact that they are dirty to operate and throw sparks is a given. No argument there.
As mentioned by others, take the time to set the vise square with the blade.
Buy a QUALITY name brand blade. I have good luck with the thin 3/32” Makita. They are only around 10 dollars I believe so why cheap out?
Do NOT cut with a continuous grinding motion. Use the saw as described. CHOP. This action minimizes blade deflection and heat buildup resulting in more accurate and clean cuts.
Just my $.03. (I tend to overvalue my opinions). LOL
For cutting thin stuff frequently, I really like the Diablo Cermet II 90-tooth blade. ¼" down to ⅛" wall-thickness (or ½" plate/bar) and it works great. I use Stick-Kut wax lubricant pretty much every single time unless I forget.
I liked it so much I bought a spare, and also a 72-tooth version in case I have to cut any thicker stuff. The videos I've seen YouTube of the Cermet-tipped Diablo tools is definitely impressive.
A couple of jokers in the crowd ? I think there's more than a couple.
PSA and Lis provided words of wisdom.
Many members here share their ideas and suggest a improved way to do things.
It's like, learning from your mistakes before you make them.
Back to the topic at hand. This Dewalt saw has a stamped metal base. These pics are an example of potential issues with stamped metal versus a cast base.
Some of this came from letting the heavy pieces to be cut hit or drop onto that side as it was being put in the saw. 2-1/2" solid bae stock gets kind of heavy. Taking a bit more care of your tools will make them last longer.
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It is most definitely worth it, especially if you send them multiple blades at a time. Even though anyone can buy a blade sharpener at harbor freight which will get you out of a pinch, the precisely ground top facets that WD Quinn can shape on the tooth/carbide bit make a difference. I obviously don't use that Evolution blade for steel anymore, but last month I used it to slice up blackjack oak for my smoker. That is one very, very dense and tough oak that the original blade (before sharpening) could handle, but now it slices through it like butter. It was a shocking difference how much easier it cut; it literally just slid right through with just barely more force it takes to push the saw blade down with nothing there. I can only imagine how well their grinding/shaping techniques work for the higher-count steel-cutting blades. Heck, I'm itching to wear out the Diablo just to have WD Quinn sharpen it for me! I bet it will be even better than new!
Here are some tips and with these and any other suggestions, I dont mean to insult, just share my mistakes.
To the OP, if you do not have a set of "V" blocks, I suggest making some out of 1 inch angle and some flat bar. Pics attached.
This will hold square tube on the diamond and it is much better for the blade. The V blocks can also offer a more secure way to hold pipe.
Make sure you support the outboard or right side of the cut.
Make sure the object in the clamp is very secure.
If cutting at an angle, add a C Clamp to help hold the material. I have had the material creep a little in the vise and that throws off the length.
Slowly enter work piece, then let the saw do its job. Carbide teeth chip or break if they hit the material too fast.
If you break a tooth, search on here. There us a thread about a company that fixes the blade teeth and sharpens the blade. It is much cheaper in the long run than powering through and damaging the blade and material.
Don't cut bar stock on the flat if you can avoid it. That is very hard on the blade. In other words, dont lay a piece of 1/8 by 4 flat bar flat on the saw. Again, very tough on the saw blade.
Buy at least one more blade right away. It is so much easier to change out the blade right away than stop a project and go to the store or order online.
Match the tooth count and material to the blade.
Spray some wd40 on the blade when cutting aluminum. Once the teeth get hot and clog, it starts to get ugly.
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the saw should be here mid week according to the tracking number and ill be sure to make some vblocks. whats a good brand of spare blade that wont break the bank ? i wont be making hundreds of cuts a week. probly not even a hundred in a month.
I have used Oshlun, TenRyu and Dewalt blades.
Some of them make blades designed for Steel, Aluminum, or Stainless.
The honest answer is that if you look at the condition of my saw you will see I am not exactly gentle with my tools. Due to that, others might be better able to judge the difference in some of the manufacturers blades. Oscar, Lis, BD1 etc might offer better guidance.
I have not tried the Diablo 14 inch blades.
I mostly use this saw now to cut down full length sticks so I can then cut them on my bandsaw.
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I'm still using the OEM blade that came with my Makita LC1230 dry cut saw.
I haven't invested in a spare blade. I keep
hoping I see one on sale.
I’m in the same boat. I did recently see a video on the Diablo and it is suppose to be good for cutting all metals. It has the laser cuts on the side to reduce vibrations. If I ever buy another blade that will probably be the blade I try next.
Last edited by N2 Welding; 02-21-2021 at 02:53 PM.
Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
I just realized after rewatching the video. Even though one might be able to cut multiple types of metals with one blade I got to wondering would it be wise. Concerns would be if the blade used to cut mild steel then turned around and used to cut stainless might contaminate the cutline of the stainless if it is to be welded. Same thing with cutting Alluminum. The blade might be able to be cleaned if needed but something to think about or discuss for those wanting one for all materials.
Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
I have used Oshlun, TenRyu and Dewalt blades.
Some of them make blades designed for Steel, Aluminum, or Stainless.
The honest answer is that if you look at the condition of my saw you will see I am not exactly gentle with my tools. Due to that, others might be better able to judge the difference in some of the manufacturers blades. Oscar, Lis, BD1 etc might offer better guidance.
I have not tried the Diablo 14 inch blades.
I mostly use this saw now to cut down full length sticks so I can then cut them on my bandsaw.
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I have gone through more than several blades on my dewalt multicutters, have used oshlun and dewalt brand... they're very similar in performance... cut mostly steel flatbar, tube and pipe... 12 ga through 1 inch thick bar with an occasional oddball thrown in that I shouldn't I have also gone through a lot of smaller blades for the handsaws and I will NOT recommend the diablo brand for them!!!! but oshluns are a great choice for cost per cut as they seem to work every bit as good as the original milwaukee blades which I really like
I have gone through more than several blades on my dewalt multicutters, have used oshlun and dewalt brand... they're very similar in performance... cut mostly steel flatbar, tube and pipe... 12 ga through 1 inch thick bar with an occasional oddball thrown in that I shouldn't I have also gone through a lot of smaller blades for the handsaws and I will NOT recommend the diablo brand for them!!!! but oshluns are a great choice for cost per cut as they seem to work every bit as good as the original milwaukee blades which I really like
Now I didn't specifically state that I did NOT use 14 inch diablos'.... but I didn't just so there's no misunderstanding they could/are probably made differently than the smaller ones... or maybe even by someone else??? but the smaller ones are pure garbage in my experience... and I tried a dozen of them just to be sure
Pat. I have a question On setups like this in your photo..
If you had a smaller diameter workpiece is it not too critical that it isn’t supported on the bottom albeit being clamped more securely with the “VEE”?
Pat. I have a question On setups like this in your photo..
If you had a smaller diameter workpiece is it not too critical that it isn’t supported on the bottom albeit being clamped more securely with the “VEE”?
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I put the V blocks in the saw vise so they are about 1/4 - 1/2 inch or so away from the blade. That seems to offer plenty of support to the piece being cut. While the smaller diameter pipes do not touch the bottom as you can see, larger diameter pipes or cylinders can touch the bottom as well as the V.
I then usually try to support the piece on the right of the saw blade by putting blocks or something under it. I actually like to have that right side support being a tiny bit lower so the cut piece sags just a little and does not bind on the blade.
On a different note, for the OP or anyone else that uses these saws and others to cut thin wall cylinders like fire extinguishers, be careful. If the cylinder is intact and you are just cutting the bottom off the extinguisher, the walls of the cylinder can flex. The bottom of the cylinder is offering a good amount of strength. As you near the lower part of the cut, the walls of the tanks will flex and the cylinder will start to turn egg shaped in the vise. That can be dangerous and the cylinder will rotate or come loose.
Last edited by psacustomcreations; 02-22-2021 at 06:23 AM.
Millermatic 252 MIG
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Altas 12x36 Metal Lathe
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ReplyOriginally Posted by Lis2323
Master Welder
Master Welder
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I have also gone through a lot of smaller blades for the handsaws and I will NOT recommend the diablo brand for them!!!! but oshluns are a great choice for cost per cut as they seem to work every bit as good as the original milwaukee blades which I really like
