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Re: Loading Chute
MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THESE JACKSTANDS BRING A WHOLE NEW DIMENSION TO FABRICATING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The second best thing I've ever made,,,,,,,,,the loader was the best. I love these things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Level, and square on the base. Plumb on the ends. Just have to pull it all plumb where the stretchers connect. I've never had it this easy!!!!!!!
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Re: Loading Chute
I'M LIVIN' IN THE 21st CENTURY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Re: Loading Chute
I'm Livin' The Dream!!
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Re: Loading Chute
Lookin' good, samm! Is the little snatch block for a vertical sliding gate?
Ol' Stonebreaker
"Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"
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Miller 175 mig
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Re: Loading Chute
Originally Posted by
farmersammm
I'M LIVIN' IN THE 21st CENTURY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now all you need is a concrete floor to stop lighting the pasture on fire.... and a roof to keep the rain out.... and walls for the wind...
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
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Re: Loading Chute
Originally Posted by
farmersammm
MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THESE JACKSTANDS BRING A WHOLE NEW DIMENSION TO FABRICATING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The second best thing I've ever made,,,,,,,,,the loader was the best. I love these things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Level, and square on the base. Plumb on the ends. Just have to pull it all plumb where the stretchers connect. I've never had it this easy!!!!!!!
Looking good Samm - the stands and the welds I mean - you probably still look the same
Keep welding
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
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Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
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Re: Loading Chute
Originally Posted by
mla2ofus
Lookin' good, samm! Is the little snatch block for a vertical sliding gate?
It's to lift the ramp in place so the pin can be inserted at different heights.
I'd really like to put a drop gate on the thing, but for now, we're just going to use a pipe shoved through the mesh at the entrance. It's not ideal, but for now it's gonna have to do.
I have thought about where to put a gate. Because the mesh will be attached inside the chute, I can't use the inside of the frame for a track. I'd have to put the gate outside the entrance, running inside a channel attached to the frame. This would interfere with pinning another section of chute to the entrance. But! I think I might have a way around that too.
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Re: Loading Chute
Originally Posted by
farmersammm
I'M LIVIN' IN THE 21st CENTURY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Imagine what it would be like with a concrete pad, and maybe even a proper table
Murphy's Golden Rule: Whoever has the gold, makes the rules.
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Re: Loading Chute
We have an interesting discussion going on about how to mount a winch in a dump bed trailer.
I distill everything down to beams. EVERYTHING, just about, is built using beams. The entire loading chute is comprised of beams, and columns.
I didn't like the idea of using 14ga material(actually I'm still not crazy about it), but a beam analysis shows me that the material is adequate...........if just barely. To simulate worst case scenario, I've point loaded every beam in the thing, then did the same thing based on a distributed load. The sides are the most crucial, as you'd imagine..........
Will an animal be able to blow out the sides of the chute.
The longest beams are the rails that go from entrance to exit. The sides.
I'm on the razor's edge. Each beam can take up to a 500# center point load without deforming (33Ksi stress). Top, and bottom beams, sharing a load.........can take a total of 1000# force without deforming. But add a 3rd beam, and you're now splitting the load 3 ways. This drops the individual beam load to around 300#(20Ksi). The mesh panel, and a mid point upright, will distribute the load fairly evenly over the entire system. I believe you've heard me talk about membranes when it comes to using diamond plate for trailer flooring. A membrane does a wonderful job of spreading loads across a wide area.
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Re: Loading Chute
Originally Posted by
shortfuse
sammm...as soon as you can, get the d*amn cataract surgery done!!! My wife and I had both eyes done a couple of years ago, in our 70's, one eye at a time, 20/20 now. It doesn't hurt, just takes a few minutes, you can see right after the surgery, but they put preventive cups and pads over each eye after surgery for a day for protection, then just eye drops for a few days.
What he said Samm. Have had both eyes done about 2 years apart several years ago. Like your experience, night driving became a challenge but now no problem.
Quick, painless and easy. Pre-op takes longer than the actual procedure. Still wear cheaters for reading, welding and close-up work and would do it again in a heartbeat if I had to.
MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1
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Save Second Base!
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Re: Loading Chute
Originally Posted by
duaneb55
What he said Samm. Have had both eyes done about 2 years apart several years ago. Like your experience, night driving became a challenge but now no problem.
Quick, painless and easy. Pre-op takes longer than the actual procedure. Still wear cheaters for reading, welding and close-up work and would do it again in a heartbeat if I had to.
I'm committed to getting it fixed now, just waiting for approval.
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Re: Loading Chute
All the fillets on the frame are done...............then the storms came in. I was just to the point of doing the butt welds. It might be days before I can get to them now. The tubing has water in it from the rain, and it's supposed to rain again tomorrow. It takes a good hot sunny day to get the water evaporated from inside tubing.
The wind was running upwards of 30mph all day, which really messed with the work. I don't like to run a welder in high winds. It messes with the shielding, especially flux core with its minimal slag coverage. Is what it is I guess. This thing needs to be out the door.
Got the welder dialed in finally, but it's still a mess. This has nothing to do with eyesight.
I purchased the new welder in 2017. It ran like a dream.
Sometime in 2019 IIRC, I was welding on a bale wrapper, and grounded the contact tip. Being mostly a stick guy, I didn't release the trigger (it never occurred to me) and did what I do when a rod sticks..........yanked it off the steel(if it's really stuck, I get the stinger off the rod). This took a bit of time because the tip was stuck pretty good. It was shorted for a few seconds.
The welder wouldn't run for crap after this. Looked at the gun, and the braided copper in the liner was burned where it enters the gun. Replaced the gun/liner assembly, and continued using the welder. It's never run great since.
At lower settings, the arc is erratic. Lot of arc outages as your welding. And, you can't push your wire speed like when it was new. This is why I bought the 220V machine.........the ability to run wire very fast with a nice arc......no stubbing. And, the ability to run a normal stickout. The old HH135 had to be run with the contact tip almost touching the steel..you couldn't increase stickout beyond about 1/4".
Voltage settings have become different too. I used to run 14ga at the #2 tap with wire speed at 35. Now, I have to run at #3 tap and turn the wire speed down to 20. It just won't take the faster wire speeds at lower voltage anymore without sputtering, and spitting. And I'm fighting with that stupid short stickout again like the old smaller amp welder.
I've been meaning to take the damn thing to the shop to see what's going on, but as usual, I never get around to it........................and wind up having to use it.
Hobart tech support guy said it might be the rectifiers. Something about looking at them to see if they're burned/open. I can't recall if I ever did it, or did it, and saw nothing amiss(shrug).
This is why I hate these wire welders, always have,, always will.
I guess I can't say I hate ALL of them. The LN25 is a beautiful wire feeder.
I know my eyesight is bad now, but there's some things that should be the same...................how a damn welder runs.
This was back when the welder was new....file data says pics taken in 2017
Overhead fillet, and butt weld in the as welded position.
One of the same series of welds with the porta panel sitting on the ground as it's actually to be used I always say that an out of position weld should look like it was done flat. I know it sounds azzholeish, but I actually have always worked hard to make it that way. And.....with wire, being as easy as it is to weld with...........it shouldn't be a hard stretch to accomplish.
The settings on the machine Back then, this thing ran smoooooth. Crank up the wire speed, and she'd just purr. Settings are not the same on any machine, but 35 on the Hobart is fast for .030 wire. No messing around looking at a puddle all day long.......burn and churn. By the time I get to finish welding, I'm usually fed up, bored, and just want to get done. Wire can allow you to run as fast as you're able(to a point).
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Re: Loading Chute
I think that the welds pictured don’t match with the settings, and I’m absolutely not calling you a liar. I think something is mixed up- I would expect .030 to run at about 5-6 on the voltage and about 70-80 on the wire.
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Re: Loading Chute
Originally Posted by
Oxford1
I think that the welds pictured don’t match with the settings, and I’m absolutely not calling you a liar. I think something is mixed up- I would expect .030 to run at about 5-6 on the voltage and about 70-80 on the wire.
Like I said, all machines are different..........I've never run anything but a Hobart, and an LN. At least the LN shows you the wire speed. Anyways........................
I really don't do much wire. It sort of goes in fits, and spurts. Right now, I'll be running quite a bit of it in the coming month. I hate settings...........always have. A stick welder just welds.....no fiddling with knobs.
The only thing I weld with the Hobart is 14ga, and 11ga. Sometimes a little solid wire for really thin stuff..........otherwise 100% self shielding flux core. I will go a little thicker with the 190amp machine, but seldom do.
All pics in this thread are 14ga steel tubing. So, the settings are in the ballpark...........but I just haven't felt it's doing very well on those settings. I can't remember ever running 14ga at the #3 tap, but it's within the parameters on the chart. The charts are only starting points anyway.......not etched in stone. If you're still a bit confused, remember that gasless flux core runs at very low voltage when it comes to thin material.......probably at least 1/2 the setting values. I imagine most folks don't use it for thinner metal, and opt for MIG instead........but I'm always outside, so I need the gasless wire.
Today I finished out the butt welds, and they were absolutely abysmal...........I mean LOUSY. Damn thing kept popping and spitting..........constant arc outages.
So I did something I've not done in a LONG LONG TIME, mainly because I forgot you have to do it occasionally.................I blew the liner out. Quite a bit of black crud came out, and the machine definitely ran better for the rest of the day. Pretty smooth. But not as good as it used to......at least that was my impression. I won't know for sure until I remove the slag tomorrow. We got hit by rain again, so I got shut down.
Last edited by farmersammm; 04-24-2022 at 09:03 PM.
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Re: Loading Chute
Originally Posted by
farmersammm
I purchased the new welder in 2017. It ran like a dream.
Sometime in 2019 IIRC, I was welding on a bale wrapper, and grounded the contact tip. Being mostly a stick guy, I didn't release the trigger (it never occurred to me) and did what I do when a rod sticks..........yanked it off the steel(if it's really stuck, I get the stinger off the rod). This took a bit of time because the tip was stuck pretty good. It was shorted for a few seconds.
The welder wouldn't run for crap after this. Looked at the gun, and the braided copper in the liner was burned where it enters the gun. Replaced the gun/liner assembly, and continued using the welder. It's never run great since.
I've been meaning to take the damn thing to the shop to see what's going on, but as usual, I never get around to it........................and wind up having to use it.
Hobart tech support guy said it might be the rectifiers. Something about looking at them to see if they're burned/open. I can't recall if I ever did it, or did it, and saw nothing amiss(shrug).
This is why I hate these wire welders, always have,, always will.
Your hatred of wire welders is totally irrational. I've highlighted the key points in bold.
Basically, you broke the machine and then blamed the machine instead of fixing it.
Give the dog a bad name and hang it...
Wire welders are complicated... there's an awful lot going on in a MIG/MAG/FCAW arc. Constant voltage, stickout, inductance, wire speed, and if anything is slightly not right, they run like crap. Simple as. It's all about maintenance!
Murphy's Golden Rule: Whoever has the gold, makes the rules.
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Re: Loading Chute
Originally Posted by
Munkul
Your hatred of wire welders is totally irrational,,,,,,,,,,,
Give the dog a bad name and hang it...
Wire welders are complicated... there's an awful lot going on in a MIG/MAG/FCAW arc.
Constant voltage,
stickout,
inductance,
wire speed,
and if anything is slightly not right,
they run like crap.
Simple as. It's all about maintenance!
On one hand, you say,,, "Your hatred of wire welders is totally irrational,"
But, then you say ,, "and if anything is slightly not right, they run like crap."
By listing all of MIG welding's "QUIRKS", I feel you support farmersammm's position.. as well as my position,,
and, that is that stick welding is "JUST WELD" whereas MIG welding is "TWIST KNOB'S,, READ CHARTS"
Stick welding is more forgiving, and less aggravating as far as settings,, IMHO,,
If MIG is actually easier to setup than stick, please elaborate,,
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Re: Loading Chute
Originally Posted by
SweetMK
On one hand, you say,,, "Your hatred of wire welders is totally irrational,"
But, then you say ,, "and if anything is slightly not right, they run like crap."
OK, you got me, fair point But I feel the productivity benefits outweigh the extra complications/maintenance. It's just a set of rollers, a liner and a tip. The liner and tip in particular need to be good, and they're cheap.
Generally if problems can't be cured by a careful check over and fitting a new gun assembly and earth lead, then there's something more terminal with the machine. At that point I get rid ASAP.
I cannot and will not put up with a bad performing MIG welder. A MIG set puts down lots of weld metal irrespective of how well or how badly it's running, and when running badly it can make a real mess, really quickly.
Originally Posted by
SweetMK
If MIG is actually easier to setup than stick, please elaborate,,
Yeah you're absolutely right, nothing will beat stick for simplicity. Last week I ran a few lb of 7018 on a staircase outdoors. I literally plugged the machine in, checked the amp setting for the rod size, and welded, rod after rod, flat, uphill, upside down, butt welds, fillets, the lot. Absolutely zero dramas.
Last edited by Munkul; 04-25-2022 at 08:45 AM.
Murphy's Golden Rule: Whoever has the gold, makes the rules.
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Re: Loading Chute
Have to say, I'm in the "stick it " camp. It's just so much more relaxing. Grab a rod and a beer... relax.... Zen out and dream of life in a simpler time... I keep the MIG set up for sheet metal and it tends to gather a lot of dust.
250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC Stick
F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
230 amp Sears AC Stick
Lincoln 180C MIG
Vevor MIG 200A
Victor Medalist 350 O/A
Vevor Cut 50 Plasma
Les
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Re: Loading Chute
Well I am gonna go with Munkal on this Mig on this simplicity everyone agrees it is the easiest because it is mist common I have been doing this since the age 18 I am now 67 when I am in a shop mig is the best it is clean less smoke to breath less clean up and most of the time less distortion . I hear very few people on here rate Mig very high I will say it again procedure and joint design like Munkal said productiveity outweighs some of the complication I might be old but I was also mig is wire and gas
Farmersamm appears to be using inner shield or fluxcore while I have little or no experience with dual shield , inner shield is very forgiving set the voltage and wire speed and go to work Now I do believe taking a small wire feeder and putting it on a extension cord and trying to make it work doesn’t work wire feeders need to make sure that your input is high enough to maintain proper output the longer the cord more voltage drop etc
As you all get older you will find out that breathing all that smoke isn’t all it is bragged up to be. Inner shield is very productive in the field but it takes a good machine to run it it is easy to get right up to duty cycle limits with inner shield because you have higher voltage amperage and you don’t have to stop very often
This is all my 2cents worth but mig is a very productive solution to DIY people
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Re: Loading Chute
Leogl, you aren't old. You're still a kid. The worst is yet to come.
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Re: Loading Chute
Originally Posted by
hvw
Leogl, you aren't old. You're still a kid. The worst is yet to come.
You ain’t kidding.
I just had my first colonoscopy…
Seven years behind schedule.
They found 2 Molson bottle caps and a Barbie doll shoe….
But other than that everything looks fine.
Miller 211
Hypertherm PM 45
1961 Lincoln Idealarc 250
HTP 221
True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
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Re: Loading Chute
I knocked the slag off of the welds today. I was sort of surprised, and sort of upset.
Meh.............
Clearly some issues.
I called the repair dood over in Tulsa. "If it's running, there's probably nothing wrong with it". Ok.............
Now it's time to look in the mirror. DO I STILL KNOW HOW TO RUN THIS DAMN THING????? You can be like the dood that misses a 3 foot putt, then looks at his putter as if it's the culprit.............or you can get off your butt, and see what's actually wrong in your own wheelhouse.
I shtcanned the day, and ran some wire..........lot of wire. I forgot that I have to look at the puddle from behind the arc to see the profile. I've had to do this for years, now that I remember.
Turned the hood down to shade #10. I've always welded at shade #11. Well Hell.................I'm friggin' blind as a bat these days. Makes sense to use a lower shade value.
I don't concentrate like I used to. Why, I dunno, but it is what it is. I have to force myself to be the puddle these days. Travel isn't as regular as it used to be......you can see it in the ripples.
But, after a bit of messing around,,,,,,,forgetting anything else. Things are cool. It ain't the machine...........IT'S ME.
One thing though....................... Did a lot of padding today, and the machine did run different as the padding progressed. The initial fillet ran fine.........no arc outages, no popping, etc......... As the next bead was piled on top of the previous bead, the machine started acting up. You could see the stickout change as the weld progressed...........not by me, but by the machine.......it was a pulsing change in length. My tip to workpiece didn't change, but the wire length beyond the tip changed as the weld progressed...........and there were arc outages.
I'm thinking that the material thickness changed as the padding progressed. The material was getting thicker with every pass. It might have required more voltage as I went along............dunno. You'd think that the metal was getting hotter with each pass, and shouldn't need additional voltage, or amperage. This is why I really hate wire machines. Do this sorta thing with stick, and you can pile metal all day long without any need to change parameters.
But anyways.............I ain't the guy I used to be. It's a bit of a let down, but it is what it is. Everything has to be done very deliberately nowdays, or it doesn't work. K'kins talked about it last night. "You're not doing this much anymore, so don't expect to be good at it" Bit harsh, but I guess she's right.
Now, let's get to the other thing............................... E71T-11 is a pure solid btch to run, always was, still is. It is really sensitive in the lower ranges on thinner material. Runs fine in the .035 variety on 11ga, and up. Get down to 16, and 14ga.......and it's touchy. To make it look like 7018 is tough when dealing with thin material. You're constantly on the edge of burn through, but it's doable. Hell..........I did it for years. It just plain sucks that I don't have the knack so much anymore. Today was a good day. I'm getting the feel for it again.
I still think the welder runs a bit odd, but I'm not gonna stress over it. Take it in, and have them look at it when I'm done with this crap. I still have another working chute to do.
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Re: Loading Chute
I don't see what the problem is. The beads look fine... a small bit of porosity maybe, but you'll get that on thin stuff if you're almost burning through.
Sure it's not x-ray, but it's t-11 wire, it's never going to be xray (IMHO, I don't have a high opinion of T-8/GS wire to start with)
The cows won't mind
Murphy's Golden Rule: Whoever has the gold, makes the rules.
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Re: Loading Chute
Got Clamps????
Tacked the sub assembly, then dry fitted it to make sure it was right.
Plop the larger part on the Uranus FabRail 39g, and glue it together.
About the only time the machine won't stutter is when going uphill, otherwise still suffering arc outages as the weld progresses.