What is the best way to run air compressor lines

[Reebz]

What is the consensuses on running black pipe for and air compressor to trap moisture pre separator? I want to make mine tight and concise due to small wall area.
I have done searches but there seems to be no rational and maybe there is no wrong or right way.

[smithdoor]

What is the consensuses on running black pipe for and air compressor to trap moisture pre separator? I want to make mine tight and concise due to small wall area.
I have done searches but there seems to be no rational and maybe there is no wrong or right way.

I use 1/2” galvanized pipe
Black will rust out.
I would put a tee every 10 feet

Dave

[jeffrey.penfield]

I use 1/2” galvanized pipe
Black will rust out.
I would put a tee every 10 feet

Dave

are the tees to drain water?


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[M J D]

I would use black pipe, galvanized has a coating that can flake and damage air tools. Never had an issue with black pipe rusting thru in an inside application.

[metalman21]

Black Pipe. Keep the runs slightly pitched so water can run to a low point and be drained.
That said I have a copper system only because I started with the copper about 30 years ago. No problems with the copper but probably expensive today.

[Jawslandshark]

I run black pipe also, if I started over I would run minimum 3/4 for the drops and bigger for the main feeds. But no complaints with 3/4 and 1/2 for most things. Have a drier and filters on the inlet and a couple down the system as well.

[BD1]

I use 1/2” galvanized pipe
Black will rust out.
I would put a tee every 10 feet

Dave

Many avoid using galvanized pipe because of possibly flaking. The cheap China pipe from box stores is the worst. Threaded a piece for neighbor and you could see it inside.
Black pipe is all we use commercially. Copper and propress fittings is the cleanest.


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[Reebz]

I will post a picture in a few hours and the logic behind my set up.
Thanks for the help

[rolibr]

In our plant we run Schedule 80 CPVC for all our air.

I was always under the impression to not use galvanized due to the potential of flaking.

[Reebz]

Here is a few pictures. Each pipe is 4' long and the top pipe which runs to the right is 8' or 10'. The second picture has a separator an hose. I tilted the pipes (not level) to aid water to run to the bottom pipe which has a valve. Give me ideas of what need to change.

[leightrepairs]

You might want to to look at the following before using CPVC for airlines.

https://www.usplastic.com/knowledgeb...contentkey=787

[Reebz]

Summit racing sell a plastic air line. Money is tight. I may go that direction. My space is so small I need to max. every square inch. Additionally I want it to look profesional, as you can see in the pictures it looks rough. When people stop over to get stuff I don't want to look like a trash operation.

[leightrepairs]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/raa-f28070/overview/

I would something like the above for your airlines, looks professional and easy to install.

[ronsii]

Last stuff I ran was pex but also have lots of copper in the finished areas and in some of the fab shops I also have several hundred feet of poly buried between buildings and another hundred as a main feed from one end of my sawmill building to the other end. I find the pex tough and simple to install, have seen summits pex/Al pipe... It looks nice but for the premium in price I can plumb three times as much shop in regular pex ��

[BD1]

In our plant we run Schedule 80 CPVC for all our air.

I was always under the impression to not use galvanized due to the potential of flaking.

PVC is against code and OSHA. PVC manufactures even state not for compressed air. Hopefully plant has insurance and OSHA doesn’t make a visit.
Fines are not cheap.


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[tweake]

What is the consensuses on running black pipe for and air compressor to trap moisture pre separator? I want to make mine tight and concise due to small wall area.
I have done searches but there seems to be no rational and maybe there is no wrong or right way.

the best way is to fit a cooler between the compressor and air tank. as its at its hottest it makes it easier to get rid of the heat so a small cooler will work. also because its at the highest pressure point you can get more water out of it.
you can fit a trap or simply let it drain into the tank.
depending on the pressure your running, some of the tube style oil coolers work well as they have a nice high pressure rating.

for general air pipes i would go with Medium-density polyethylene and compression fittings. easy to install but does sag under heat so it needs support.

[John T]

What is the consensuses on running black pipe for and air compressor to trap moisture pre separator? I want to make mine tight and concise due to small wall area.
I have done searches but there seems to be no rational and maybe there is no wrong or right way.

Another vote for Black pipe.

mine is pretty simple, Up from the compress. then down into a drip leg... further up it comes across a few more feet and into a Motorgard M60 then into a dessicant can. and regulator... I also use an auto tank drain... (highly recommend this) they are cheap.
works great looks professional/I change dessicant maybe once a month... I dry it and reuse it.

someday I will get around to a cooler between the compressor and air tank like Tweak mentioned..... a coil of copper tube in a 5 gal pail works also.

I looked at those blue plastic airline kits... but they are not cheap either and I also read reviews about leaks at the connections..... Black pipe with Rectorseal#5 and I have NO leaks whatsoever.

[Meltedmetal]

I've used black pipe in my commercial setting and Rapidair at home. Be aware that there are 2 different 1/2" line systems in the plastic/aluminum lines. 1 is 1/2" inside and the other is 1/2" outside. I bought a starter kit from Speedway that I'm happy with at home. Just depends what you want/need/can afford. Continue your research.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Searc...+Air+Line+Kits

[davec]

I went with type L copper, soldered. I find it a lot easier to work with than iron pipe. It is what we have at work also (fortune 500 manufacturer) so I know it works well. The copper coil in a garbage can is a good method for cooling also. WW member CEP has exactly that and has said he never even needs to fill the tub with water as the coil itself is enough in air. No PVC ever for this, but the newer PEX systems as several have shown are good. PEX won't explode and frag like PVC if it gets damaged.

[Sberry]

Geez, , you get deal on fittings by the bushel ? Sine it's done it could be improve by umping the air in the top and have an over the top take off on the bottom. You are trying to blow water up hill. Now it's going to settle, the grade is so slight little condensate won't run down, then try to blow back up.

[jeffrey.penfield]

Here is a few pictures. Each pipe is 4' long and the top pipe which runs to the right is 8' or 10'. The second picture has a separator an hose. I tilted the pipes (not level) to aid water to run to the bottom pipe which has a valve. Give me ideas of what need to change.

what is the reason for all the bends


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[Reebz]

what is the reason for all the bends


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I got the pipe at a garage sale. So I tried to tuck it in tight. Then I moved things around and need a new plan.

[Reebz]

[QUOTE=Sberry;8728641]Geez, , you get deal on fittings by the bushel ? Sine it's done it could be improve by umping the air in the top and have an over the top take off on the bottom. You are trying to blow water up hill. Now it's going to settle, the grade is so slight little condensate won't run down, then try to blow back up.[/QUOT

Got the fitting and pipe for like $10 at a garage sale.

[rexcormack]

After working in the pressure industry for 40+ years I've learned a few things about compressed air lines.
#1: Sooner or later all steel pipe rusts and flakes! Usually sooner!
#2: Sooner or later all plastic pipe fails sometime with disastrous results! Most plastic pipe is
specified as not for use with compressed air, if you know where to look!
#3: Copper, when installed properly, will last nearly forever with little to no maintenance.
Copper is also much easier to make fit ANY installation than steel and almost as easy as plastic.

My personal experience:
When our old building was built(1981) we used a "special" abs plastic pipe that was specified specifically
for compressed air. Within 5 years it shattered just like pcv will and threw large shards of plastic across
the production floor! By some sort of miracle no one was injured!
I replaced all of the plastic with copper and soldered fittings. When that building was torn down in 2015
the copper was in perfect condition and I had not done a single repair in that 34 years!
The only material better than copper is stainless steel which is cost prohibitive for most people!

In case you haven't figured it out I'm a big fan of copper! In fact later today I will be silver soldering the
copper refrigerant lines on our new home heat pump system!

[smithdoor]

The Tee's are for outlets
Slop the pipe and put a value at the end (lowest point) for drainage

Dave

are the tees to drain water?


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