We Need An SA-200 Info/FAQ Sticky

[OMB]

There are good and bad to both I guess. I've used the kind like Weldmart sells. I believe you'll have to notch your hood for the padlock bar to go up though. Then the padlock lays flat on your hood and slides / scratches a half moon out of your paint.

The major disadvantage to the one LL sells is the fact that the lock faces straight up and will be frozen closed when it rains / snows. And you'll still have to drill holes for the hold down bolts to go through your hood.

As with any lock, either choice is only going to keep the honest folks out. With that said, of the two, if you can live with a notch in the hood and the paint beat off from the padlock, I think the one Weldmart has would be my choice. And regardless of which one you choose, be sure to educate your helper that using the torch to thaw the lock is a big no no.

When I have a padlock bouncing off paint that I care about I slip a piece of bike inner tube over the lock as a bumper/cushion. The up facing lock can be sealed with a dab of Vaseline smeared over the key hole ( tends to lube the keyway and pins as a bonus) but padlocks have been difficult to keep moisture out- even if I seal the keyway, the shackle holes seem to take on moisture and freeze. Or you can do what fussy drivers that have straight stacks do- put a bucket over it overnight.

[Blackslacks]

To deter theft or tampering with my machine, I stuck a vibration detector on it. The kind used for windows. Works great. You can't touch the machine without it going off. Very cheap, very sensitive and loud. Mine has a magnet on it so I just stick it under the door. Guaranteed to scare off anyone.

[levimeloy]

Hey guys, new to the forum and new to the Lincoln sa 200. Sorry if i post this in the wrong spot but I found this thread and it is very helpful. Just bought my 1963 Lincoln f163 redface (I believe it's a red face). Is there any way to tell that it is for sure a red face and what year it it? Face plate is worn and doesn't have any color to it. Code on the faceplate says 6633 if that helps. It cranks and has good compression, just doesn't have any spark, picked it up for $1000, was it a good deal? Thanks in advance


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[duaneb55]

Hey guys, new to the forum and new to the Lincoln sa 200. Sorry if i post this in the wrong spot but I found this thread and it is very helpful. Just bought my 1963 Lincoln f163 redface (I believe it's a red face). Is there any way to tell that it is for sure a red face and what year it it? Face plate is worn and doesn't have any color to it. Code on the faceplate says 6633 if that helps. It cranks and has good compression, just doesn't have any spark, picked it up for $1000, was it a good deal? Thanks in advance

I have a '68 red face Code# 6633.

There are 2 "red" faceplates for the SA200. PN M8803 covers Code#s 3418 to 5841 and M10926 covers Code#s 5957 to 7242 (our machines).

There's also a red/blue faceplate for Code#s 4149 & 4150.

http://stumpfweldingsupplies.com/200_Nameplates.html
http://billswelderrepair.com/faceplates.html

Your no spark issue may just be crusty points in the mag that can be cleaned up with a little sandpaper or points file.

[Pipeliner]

This is a service manual link provided by Bill's Welder Repair in OKC to nearly every code # SA200 manufactured. This was on the Lincoln site at one time, but I haven't looked lately to see if it's still up.

http://www.billswelderrepair.com/fil...00_manuals.pdf

This is a collaboration of all manuals, so you'll need to reference your code # to determine the correct manual. It's a big file (not a smartphone in the field friendly size) so be patient. I'm sure by now everyone has at least a PDF copy saved to their hard drive, but if not now is a good time to do so.

And thank you to Bill's in OKC for making it accessible in this fashion.

[Pipeliner]

Looks like we've lost a years worth of posts here in the sticky after the site crashed.

Grateful they were able to recover this much.....so, everyone think back to what you may have posted, part numbers etc last year and repost.

[Bonzoo]

Looks like we've lost a years worth of posts here in the sticky after the site crashed.

Grateful they were able to recover this much.....so, everyone think back to what you may have posted, part numbers etc last year and repost.

I can't even remember my email address from a year back.........Off to bed

[Pipeliner]

[guajilloweld03]

Lower radiator hose for a shorthood at Advance Auto Parts, C70670 Carquest by Dayco

[yellowfin]

Silly but short question: is there a particular shade of paint that's thought to be the correct grey and/or red for repainting these with? Or will the ones for tractors as found at Tractor Supply do just fine? Looking to redo my newly acquired farm found '55 short hood with grey on the roof, doors, and frame and red for the rest.

[duaneb55]

Paint codes are in this thread somewhere.

[yellowfin]

So far I've seen some paint codes but it refers to an obsolete paint, Dupont Centari. Apparently Dupont is no longer in that line of business. I'll need to research further, and I just emailed Lincoln to see if they can help.

[yellowfin]

Got a response from Lincoln:. Current paint for the SAEs and Classic is Sherwin Williams # J22XXS16831-4337 pearl grey.

[KC51]

A couple of SA200 items I've needed but didn't see here.
Fuel bowl strainer - NAPA 7302356
External voltage regulator - NAPA VR32SB
Both were direct fit on a 1978 black face

[Insaneride]

Thanks KC51

Any links to the the fuel shut off that CEP uses? I think it's buried here somewhere?

[KC51]

Thanks Insaneride
CEP's post is on page 6
Looks like standard brass valve sized to your gas line
Kirby

[Pipeliner]

Any links to the the fuel shut off that CEP uses? I think it's buried here somewhere?

I hounded CEP to the point he was ready to remove me from his WILL...........After weeks of non stop PMing him, taking him cookies, washing his truck, mowing his lawn, painting the eaves, splitting / stacking his woodshed full he finally released the following.

https://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.ph...71#post3824371

https://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-...1947-1962.html

[johnrbauer]

I used a 1/8 BallValve Male inlet Female outlet.
JOHN

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[Insaneride]

Thanks y'all. I had forgot what I saw or seen. I have a new (1 year) Koehler 750 on some equipment that I need the quick shutoff ball valve for. The glass filter is a bonus but the quick shutoff is important for stopping fuel from dripping into crank case thru pulser pump. I don't want to make oil out of gasoline and the ball valve makes it quick and easy to form a habit of shutting off. Also, it's easy to tell if fuel is on when starting.

[ephotrod]

Does anyone have the excel sheet I’d like to update it and add some parts as I buy them. Orielys is cheaper, as I purchase their parts I’d like to update the sheet and tally my cost.


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[smithdoor]

Engine parts

http://www.mcssl.com/store/4833177/f...3-engine-parts

[Crankitup]

I agree! there are a lot of these machines out there and the info and knowledge is slowly being lost to time.

Please do this...

[Jg59]

The napa 700172 plug set suggested does not work on my '57 with a magneto if using the routing standoffs that make the plug wires into a neat bundle. The longest wire would not reach the mag. It is about 6" short. I did not bother to see how the shorter wires would have worked.

This sticky is a Great resource. Thanks to those who got it going.

[Sberry]

I got one I will get the code for, its got a mag and a vac idler. It has been sitting, it might have been shakey when I parked it and figured I would burn that bridge when I came to it. I worked on them before but we talking decades. so far I am going to clean a line and find a felt I believe? It kind of worked for a while then stays at full idle.
Let me get pic and code, this thread a bit much for me at the moment to go thru.

[Sberry]

I see an R57 on it under some paint. I think it was kinda working for a bit, the adjustments don't seem to do anything and I need to really read how it works. I thought I had a manual but not the right one.