Welcome to Weldingweb! First, the picture is a bit too far away to determine what kind of weld - butt, lap or other. If the bead is sticking too far up, it's possible the weldment isn't fully stuck together, what we tend to call a "cold weld". This is not a good thing. Can you take a picture closer? Normally if you have great penetration on a weldment, you can grind until you are flush with the surface. Again, welcome and I hope we can help further.

 

Hi microzone, thanks for the speedy reply, I won't be able to take a closer pic for about two weeks, that's when my camera is coming back after a drop a few days ago :realmad: I can easily put this post on ice and WILL post a extreme close-up at that point, I'd rather wait and get this weld evaluated so I can deal with it correctly.

Thanks!

 

Sure thing! You don't have a friend, relative or girlfriend that has a camera?

 

I agree the pic is from kinda far away to tell alot of detail. From what I see, I agree it does look a bit cold and probly didn't penetrate much. What does the other side look like?

 

I agree the pic is from kinda far away to tell alot of detail. From what I see, I agree it does look a bit cold and probly didn't penetrate much. What does the other side look like?

Thanks, I'll see if I can get in any closer with a pic from a friends camera tomorrow with both sides!

Stan

 

Grind it flush. If you didn't weld it properly, it will fall apart or have cracks and you'll need to redo it. If you didn't get adequate penetration, you'll need to grind it out and re-weld it anyway, so you might as well grind it now. If you did weld it properly, grinding flush is what you want to do to finish it.

 

I agree with patrick. if it falls apart bevel the 2 sides good and reweld.

 

Just something to think of, but in the past I have had a problem with Bondo sticking to aluminum. Some of the more experinced bodymen on the board might know more than I, but just something to think about. but I do agree with the above go ahead and grind it and see what you have. one way or the other it will have to be ground down anyway.

 

Hi, I'll try and post a few more closer up pics today. I'm not a welder, if I shave to far I will need to get it re-welded which I suppose is not all that bad? Good question on the bondo, I was told that 'Everclear' bondo is mostly used for auto repairing, I'll double check its capability w/ aluminum though, Everclear is supposedly a cut above regular bondo. The bondo is going to have two purposes, cover up the imperfections and it adds a damping to the metal to keep the horn from 'ringing' when playing. I am hopefully trying to get to no more than 1/32" of an inch buil-up of bondo over all on the two horns.

Stan

 

Aluminum weld metal does not have the strength of the parent metal. When you remove the reinforcement it is likely you will see cracking later on. I would be leaving at least one eighth reinforcement if you feel that it is necessary to remove the bead.
If it ain't broke ... don't fix it.
If you are concerned about some sort of ringing harmonics you might consider coating it with a rubber like coating such as automotive undercoating.

 

Good idea about the automotive undercoating or truck bed liner goop but I plan to display these horns exposed on top on the woofer cabinet.

OK, here are some pics, maybe too many. Please keep in mind it’s just the two large beads on each side of the outside of the horn that need to be shaved the ones that welded the two halves together. I do not need to shave flush if necessary; I can work w/ 1/32” high. I’m not a welder so if what I ask is not possible because of cold weld or aluminum what would be the solution? Thanks - Stan

 

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