Coal forge

[shortfuse]

DSW,

Yes, that was my portable brake drum forge with the blast gate and tool bar. Yours is a work of art. I've been following your build thread from the beginning. Job well done!!

You mentioned adding wheels and the tool bar...both are indespensible!! My tool bar is just 1/2" rod. You can try various locations, and if not pleased, just cut off, grind flat and reposition

As for wheels. Get big ones!!! I started out with 6" ones on gravel...BAD choice. Go for 10" or 12". You'll never regret it. Soooo much easier to move around. We put big ones on our blacksmithing club forge and it's pretty heavy; makes for much better mobility.

[Anthony83]

That's a heck of a forge, kinda makes my brake drum forge look pretty pewny.

[shortfuse]

That's a heck of a forge, kinda makes my brake drum forge look pretty pewny.

Make that X2!

[DSW]

Thanks guys.

I've got a set of I think 12" wheels salvaged off a high rear wheel mower someone was trashing last year. They just don't do the nice forge work justice if I want to use it for demo's. I thought about simply drilling and tapping the legs and attaching and removing the legs for demos, but that idea seems a bit inelegant for all the nice forge work I did on the base.

One vague idea is to make a set of slip on "feet" that slide up the legs far enough to attach the wheels. Some 2" tube might work and I attach the wheels to that. The wheels still have to original height adjustment parts, so I should be able to set the wheels so that when I use the lever, I can lower them down to move it, then raise it up when in use, letting it sit on the " socks" holding the wheels. That saves the problem of securing cross pieces etc. A wedge on the sides of the tube would lock the socks and still be easy to take off without changing the frame at all.

With the wheels though would come the need for a handle, probably on the end away from the blower where the unit is lightest. I see another nice forged piece with the handle having riveted ends top match the side cross bar... Maybe with a nice arch to the side supports. I can probably "cheat" and add sockets for the handle under the unit. How to attach it elegantly ( read complicated) will take some thought. Of course if I do a really nice handle, then I 'll have to look for some really nice wheels to leave on it permanently... Maybe some top cap from a hand rail forged over into a circle with forged spokes... All the old wooden wheels I have are way too large for a project like this.

The legs should break down and "store" inside the forge. That's one issue I haven't worked out with the air gate yet. The end design the forge at school uses is very convenient for use, but it's attached "permanently" and I'd have to disassemble all of it to break down the forge for storage. Your idea would have been great if I thought of it earlier. Then I could have had the slide bar go thru the cross bar I haven't made yet. Just drift a hole thru the cross bar large enough to take the handle. That might still be an option. If I get the bend worked out and it goes up high enough, I might still be able to make that work.

When I took the 1st class, there was some miscommunication and the 1" stock the instructor brought was all in 5' lengths that he could easily fit in his car. I couldn't get both an end cross bar and a leg, or long bar from one piece. ( he didn't realize I wanted to do all the upsets) With 3 upsets in each leg, I needed almost an additional 6" just for the upsets. A 36" bar just was too close to gamble that I could get the final length to 30" like I wanted. Even then I had to "stretch" both one leg and the back member using the power hammer to thin the bar just slightly so I could get an extra 1/4" between upsets on one part of the leg, and an extra 1/2" on the back bar to draw out the 2nd tenon. To have enough material to do the 36" long ( final length less tenons after doing the 2 upsets on each end) I had to weld 2 drops to each other the last day and work the weld down with the power hammer so it doesn't quite show. You can just see the edge of the weld where the bead met the base metal. There wasn't any under cut, but when I forged down the bead, the metal developed a slight undercut next to part of the weld in 2 places. I didn't really have time to weld and grind at that point. I must say using the power hammer as a "stock stretcher" was VERY convenient, especially when in the 2nd class I found that I was just a bit short of what I needed to draw out the tenon on the long cross bar.

[7A749]

Doug, you knocked it outta the park!

Man, those legs turned out nice!!!

Real top shelf work!!!

[irish fixit]

Nice looking legs for sure.

I think you need to make the wheels out of steel. Some nice large iron wheels would go with that better than anything else.

[7A749]

Nice looking legs for sure.

I think you need to make the wheels out of steel. Some nice large iron wheels would go with that better than anything else.

Then he can buy a forklift to move it around!

Way awesome for sure. Big, heavy wheels.. Even better.

[irish fixit]

Then he can buy a forklift to move it around!

Way awesome for sure. Big, heavy wheels.. Even better.

That's what the wheels are for.

Actually I was thinking fairly light but artistic steel wheels. I can't really find a image like what I have in mind but something along this line is starting to get there.



Although here's a nice pair of small ones.



Now here's closer to what I was thinking except have them more ornamental. Forge the spokes and the like.

[7A749]

Top and middle pix rock!

[irish fixit]

This middle ones are only 4" around but are for sale fairly cheap.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1953562...ale?ref=market

The top one is interesting. Never seen one like it. Unfortunately there's only one and they want a little more money for it.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1182639...eel?ref=market

Here's a interesting wheel.

[shortfuse]

DSW, make yourself some time on a day that nothing else needs to be done (when's that!), get a cool one, drag up a chair and just contemplate your forge. Think of all the ways and places for your handle, tool rack, air supply, wheels, etc. You'll find that you'll probably change your mind several times, but the mental "sifting process" will finally lead you to something you are satisfied with

Our guys have used large lawnmower wheels, but I like irishfixit's idea of ornate steel wheels...kind kool! Might be heavy, but you have put in so much work on the frame that it deserves some classy wheels.

[DSW]

Thanks Wayne. That's a great idea. I really like the 1st pict and I can see that idea as totally doable. It fits in real well with the forged pieces and riveted joints of the rest of the project. Three or more pieces all forge welded into one hub, then counter sunk riveted to the rim. I can make the rivet tool similar to the one I just made, only counter sink the top with the same tool I plan to use on the steel rim. A nice 1/2" thick rim would give me plenty of room for the rivet head and keep pit flush on the outside face. 3/8" would probably work as well, but 1/4" might not be thick enough if I plan to use large rivets like they did.

The "cheating " way would be to find a nice piece of heavy wall large diameter pipe for the rim. The shop at the college has a beautiful large diameter floor cone that would also work well, at least on something like round stock. I may also be able to cold form the rims like I did the arches. Just draw out a nice circle to work to. At least cold I may not have as much of an issue with the stock length changing as I work it.

In the mean time some where I may have a couple of old steel wheel barrow wheels I saved that I'd completely forgotten about. I'll have to see how close they match and if I gave them away to the guy who used to work with me for his wife. That or keep my eyes open for a couple old steel tractor tires or a pair of old cast flat belt pulleys that match.

[DSW]

DSW, make yourself some time on a day that nothing else needs to be done (when's that!), get a cool one, drag up a chair and just contemplate your forge. Think of all the ways and places for your handle, tool rack, air supply, wheels, etc. You'll find that you'll probably change your mind several times, but the mental "sifting process" will finally lead you to something you are satisfied with.

I started doing that a few months back when I decided to take the 1st forging class this year. I've been kicking around ideas at night for the last 2-3 moths. Last year I was so swamped with stuff just before the class that I didn't have any time to try and come up with a plan of what to work on in the class. I was a bit disappointed that I felt "rushed" and didn't take as much of an advantage of the opportunity to learn as much as I might of, even though I got a lot of great information out of the class. This year I wanted to have a solid plan of attack and decided that a "joinery" project would be a good way to build skills and I could use that to do the base of the forge I've been wanting to do up real nice ever since I made it originally.

Things still popped up at the last instant just before class ( they always seem to any time I want to go some place of have plans for myself... Grrr ) and interfered with me getting everything I wanted set, but I had already had enough time in advance to do some basic planning and time to talk to the instructor to make sure there was enough ( sort of) material on hand, as well as having time to order in the S7 tool steel I used to make the punches, chisels and drifts, as well as the 1 1/2" chunk of 4140 I used to eventually make the hot cut hardie, anvil block and hot cut top tool. I still have 2 3" pieces left that I can forge out into two different swages for the hardie as well.

I ended up doing a dozen or so sketches that I brought in with me the 1st day and we dialed in ( and greatly simplified) the idea. then I went home that 1st night and drew up that idea into a full scale drawing on graph paper to work out the rough scale and so on and determine where cross bars needed to go etc. Only minor thing I screwed up is that the cross bar on the side with the blower should have been just slightly lower. It hits the blower some. I'm not too enthralled with the flat bar braces I made up to hang the blower before class. That was one of those things I ended up doing in a big rush so that the new blower was on the forge before I started the frame. the bends aren't a nice clean as crisp as I want and the bars a bent slightly and don't match. Everything there is on with bolts, so it's just a matter of fabbing up new U braces and moving them forward about 1/4" to clear the cross bar. I even thought of using the cross bar to hang the blower, but that means I'd need to dismount the blower when I break down the frame.

I'm constantly on the lookout for better ideas. Hence why I have the picts of your forge saved in my picture files under forge ideas.

I'm also looking at changing the sockets plates I made. Originally I was going to make then taller so I had more material to shape them with. But in the rush to simply get the sockets made so I could take solid dimensions for the pieces of the frame, I made an arbitrary decision and shortened them up. When I did the full scale drawing I saw I didn't care for the size in relation to everything else. Good this is A: they are removable ( down side is I didn't get a chance to predrill all the holes a fixed dimension apart, so each one is specific to a given location now,) and B: I happen to know someone who can weld and extend the pieces if need be... A bit of nice tig and some sanding and I bet you won't realize I cut them short. I'm thinking a nice set of arches on the inside, and maybe some heavy collars at the bottom that look like the legs rest on the collars.


Right now I just need it up and running by next Wednesday. Wednesday thru Sunday is the Grange Fair this year. The guy who I usually help with the blacksmithing demo just had bypass surgery and can't do the demo and asked if I'd take over. That means he won't be bringing his forge. I could bring my small rivet forge, but I think this one will be more impressive for the demo. It's going to be quite production between the forge, table for displays ( I have an old wooden T&G barn door to use as a table top, still need to work on a better set of saw horses than my yellow steel ones), anvil and stump, post vise and the 10 x 20 tent ( always seems to rain 1/2 the time at the grange minimum...). plus the coal and assorted hand tools, stock to forge etc.... I have a greater respect for the guy who does this regularly and how streamlined he is with all the same stuff now that I hav eto look at all the stuff that's needed to do several days of demos.

Oh I'm taking Thursday off from the grange fair to go to the ABANA conference in Delaware. Sadly it's running at the exact same time as the fair, so I can't do more than one day. I wasn't going to pass up the chance to go at least one day, being it's only about 1 1/2 away from me.

[ThorsHammer]

it's to god damn hot over here to forge. I've been itching to get out and beat on some metal for months now, just didn't have the time, and now that I do, it's to freakin hot. I've got 5 ornamental anchors to build. One for grandma, and one each for my dad and his siblings. Grandpa is currently on his deathbed, as in I've been waiting on the phone call for the last two days. but anyway, He is retired coastguard and I want to make them all something to remember him by. but The forge looks amazing. some day I'll have the time and funds to take some classes, but for now I'm going to have to stick with the manicure of Cobler (per iforgeiron.com member) due to my self taught, unskilled methods.

[DSW]

Thor here's some inspiration on the anchor. Mike, who was the instructor in the 2nd class I took last weekend, made it. Part of it as a demo, part of it, just "because" while the rest of us were working on our projects and there was a free forge. He got the flukes turned the wrong way, but other than that he did a really nice job on making one. It's about 18" long and about a foot wide.





This past week the weather was just about perfect for forge work. Last year when I took the class, temps during the day ran in the high 90's plus high humidity, so I know what it's like when things get that hot.

[rhunt]

Doug, really nice build, and to think, this all started with a woman asking you to make something for her! She must be really worth it!! Again, nice build! Best Bob

[ThorsHammer]

Thanks, but I'm going to try to emulate the Coast guard anchor. with the T bar at the top made out of wood. similar to this.

[shortfuse]

DSW,

You have put a LOT of thought and planning into your forge!! I just made a crude sketch and started cutting and welding angle iron! Your forge shows the effort you put into it...fantastic build...congratulations.

Regarding your taking on the demo...glutton for punishment doing it alone????? When we set up demo, we use all the equipment you mentioned, but have about half-dozen folks pitching in. Don't know how you can do all that by yourself! BTW, by all means, use your new forge. It will make a grand debut. Good luck and have a successful demo.

[shortfuse]

it's to god damn hot over here to forge. I've been itching to get out and beat on some metal for months now, just didn't have the time, and now that I do, it's to freakin hot. I've got 5 ornamental anchors to build. One for grandma, and one each for my dad and his siblings. Grandpa is currently on his deathbed, as in I've been waiting on the phone call for the last two days. but anyway, He is retired coastguard and I want to make them all something to remember him by. but The forge looks amazing. some day I'll have the time and funds to take some classes, but for now I'm going to have to stick with the manicure of Cobler (per iforgeiron.com member) due to my self taught, unskilled methods.

Thors,

I agree with you on the to-hot-to-forge! Lately, I've been firing up the forge early in the morning while it's cool, forge until about noon then stop. Put the forge in "standby mode", eat lunch, fool around on other projects until late afternoon when it cools off and I'm in the shade, then I'll forge for another hour or two. Lower humidity in the afternoon makes it more tolerable.

I, like you am mostly self-taught. We have a blacksmith club and I have learned a lot from them, but have not attended any formal classes. A bit expensive on a fixed income. Youtube has been a BIG help on lots of stuff. Just wish I could carry the videos out to the forge with me.

[Dantheharleyman99]

Speaking of too hot,..took a pic of the thermometer at about noon today in the shop next to my big fan!

[johnrbauer]

Thanks for the information I would like to make a forge. Always wanted one.

[Oldendum]

A "washtub forge" is very easy to make. Or, for that matter, just a couple of lumps of clay mud on the ground works.

[welderj]

I'm fascinated by this! I always wanted to do some, but there is just not enough time. I hope that some day I'll get time to try it. I always stop by the black smiths at the theshing shows and such. I can sit and watch those guys works for hours.

[shortfuse]

I'm fascinated by this! I always wanted to do some, but there is just not enough time. I hope that some day I'll get time to try it. I always stop by the black smiths at the theshing shows and such. I can sit and watch those guys works for hours.

You sit around and watch the blacksmiths very much longer, and you WILL find the time to get started.....'jus sayin'

[iceman46222]

this is a very good thread. If you know of any body that is building these coal forge at a good price for a non welding beginner please drop me a line.

THANKS