Problem with 6010 rods

[WNY_TomB]

Ok, got a problem.

I'm trying out one of the HF 80 amp toaster inverters for small jobs and portability. I've used 6011, 6013 and 7014 rods from 1/16" to 3/32" size, DCEP on all, on 1/8", 3/16" and even 1/4" steel just to see how it would weld. I've run the current from 40 to full knob 80 amps.

So far, all the rods and current settings have worked OK, but upon trying some 3/32" 6010 rods (Lincoln Fleetweld 5P), I can't get an arc to strike and hold to save my life! Impossible to run a bead. My ground is good (clamped directly to work piece of 1/4" bar stock) and I even cleaned the stinger clamp with a chainsaw file to get fresh contact. I've run the current setting from 40 to 80 amps and it won't strike an arc. All that happens up around 70-80 amps is that the rod pops, smokes a lot then sometimes catches fire a bit near the tip. The rods all look OK. Wierd......

The cousin 3/32" 6011 rod works OK at about 75-80 amps and is sometimes cranky to start, but will weld. So I figured the 6010 would work as well, but not the case. Now I'm wondering if the toaster box is actually putting out what the dial says. I ordered a RMS AC/DC clamp ammeter to check the DC amps on the machine to see if it is correct.

It seems that for all the rods, I have to use a higher dial setting for amps than the rod(s) are supposed to run at.

Any ideas?

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that welder has low ocv open circuit voltage and low arc voltage and since watts of electrical energy and heat is volts times amps when that machine is at 80 it acts like 60 amps on other machines that put out normal welding voltages
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many welding rods are made for low ocv or low open circuit voltage in particular 6013 some types of 6011 and some types of 7018
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6010 requires some of the highest ocv and arc voltage to run best especially if you want to pull a long length arc. that machine will never run rod that requires high ocv........... get over it and find rod types that will run on low ocv.
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best rods i find for that machine is 6013 and you will get a hotter arc if you maintain a arc length same as rod dia so 3/32 rod hold a 3/32 arc length, if you drag rod heat goes down and you get colder weld.
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many say the HF 80 amp inverter only good for 1/16 to 3/32 rod size welding 1/8 or thinner and 99.999% of problems is people fighting the low voltage and low amperage the machine puts out. basically like somebody with a garden water hose at 30 psi when they want a 2" fire hose at 100 psi. you aint ever going to get same performance ever.

[Forneycator]

TemperedOne, the most important component for a quality weld is the Weldor. Next would be material and prep. Lastly would be the welding machine. I can see where it might seem the other way around, if you read topics on forums like this, but you have to consider that most of the posters comparing different machines, have years of experience, and if they can make an "X-RAY" weld, they can probably do it on ANY machine that will run whichever rod they are using. In other words, "It ain't the arrow, it's the Injun"