So what sawzall do you use and what blades do you buy? Pictures and details if you have them. I've run into several scenarios where I could use this technique but yet again give up and move on to a different less suitable tool that I make work for the job which results in multiple cuts to get the same result a good sawzall should do in 1 cut.

For me a sawzall is that tool that'll get you out of a bind when nothing else quite does the job, but it isn't my first choice for anything. If you screw up and have to get into the destructo mode then it does that too. I keep a handfull of 3 to about 6 inch blades of various coarsenesses and widths but all around about an 18 tooth does it. Sometimes you can't tell if you're running the sawzall or the sawzall is running you. Mines a pretty old Makita, variable speed.

Couldn't live without it, but it gets used only on rare occassion. You'll cook some blades tho.

 

I like a sawzall for lots of metal cutting tasks. You may not have the right blades; too coarse probably. Also helps to tip into the work and adjust the height, to use up more of the blade.

 

What Sandy has told you is true. I have had a different approach though, as my background was in construction uses. We used them on a daily basis in construction and I would hate to live without it!

I would classify blades into 2 groups...
1. those that work for wood with nails
2. those that work on metal
Both will actually cut metal, and both will actually cut wood. It is in the tooth count that you see the difference. The metal cutting blades resemble a standard hacksaw blade where the teeth are concerned, very fine teeth. The wood blades resemble a tree saw blade, very course teeth.

When you cut metal, you have to approach the cut with zero binding and never allow the blade tip to retract completely out of the cut or you will bend that blade into a letter "S" in a heartbeat! Everybody does! Go slow, and put light pressure downward and when ever possible, use oil to help the blade not get stuck!!

 

On mine the variable speed is kind of flakey. Squeeze a bit and it moans and groans, squeeze a bit more and it leaps into hyper drive. I've run others that were better. Something to check if looking at a new purchase.

 

What is it you are trying to cut?? Tell us that and maybe we can help you out better. I use one at least weekly cutting pipe, all thread rod, metal siding, wood and what ever else gets in the way of progress.

Blade selection is the biggest factor in this.

G3

 

I have used the daylights out of my Dewalt sawzall. Cut a LOT of steel. A fine blade in the 14 to 18 tooth size made for metal is what you need. If you go too fast with the saw, the teeth will disappear from the blade in no time. Medium speed, medium pressure. Cutting oil, or some kind of coolant even penetrating oil helps the cut along. If you are cutting 3/8" plate, be patient. Its gonna take a while.

Keep pressure on the saw so the foot of the saw stays in contact with the base metal at all times. If the saw is jumping in and out of the cut, its not cutting. It cuts on the back stroke, so hold it tight to the plate.

David

 

I could not live without my sawzall, plain and simple. I like blades of 14 tpi for thinner material, and faster cutting. I like the 18tpi for thicker material. I find the 24tpi are so small, you can cut with them, but really only if you use the sawzall correctly. For best sawzall blade results: Vary your speed, and try to never just run it wide open. If you keep the speed on and off, the blade will clear the chips, and be able to bite the material. If you run it wide open and add too much pressure, the blades will glaze over, and get hot. All hope is lost once that happens!!! I have cut steel as thick as 1-1/2" with a sawzall, so that is not the problem. It's gotta be cut technique. As for blades?/ I buy Blu mol 10 packs at Home Depot. Much better price than buying single blades.
And, for aluminum, 14tpi or less. Aluminum will really gall up the blades, and it is tough to clear it once it has gotten stuck in the teeth.

 

I think I'm gonna keep my eye out for a new saw. I have a ryobi I bought about 5 years ago before I started doing any real work (use it occasionally for light work type deal). Well the foot broke off (cast steel part broke) when I was cutting a rusted shock off a friends jeep. I'll probably go dewalt, milwalkee or makita. I think the foot missing is one of the problems because its hard to hold the saw stable.

I only want to use it for cutting tubbing that is already on my Formula Toyota buggy etc. If its a piece I can throw in the bandsaw or chop saw it gets cut that way. All my plate work is cut with my plasma or my torch.

The sawzall is just for weird cuts etc. Not usually my first choice.

thanks for the tips. I think you all identified my problem Broken cheap tool

 

I personally try to use a good metal blade on nothing harder than aluminum, if you are cutting steel a fiber cutting disk plasma or torch is the better way to go if possible, in a pinch with a good blade then of course. YMMV it's really a matter of experience and using high quality blades. using cheap blades will result in a smoothed out blade and unneeded strain on the saw.

 

Hello all the more you work with the sawzawl the better you will be at cutting stuff . I cut from 30 ga metal to rebar with it but you eat the blades when cutting rebar .

 

Running a Sawzall is kind of like welding in that it takes lots of practice to get good at it. It can be a brutal tool. Ive got the biggest Milwaukee and I have to wear gloves or my hands will get numb from the vibration when making alot of cuts. With practice you can actually make very nice cuts with it. The last pack of blades that I got was Blu-Mol demolition and rescue 14 tooth per inch. in a 25 pack from Home Depot. They are about 1" wide and I think they handle the heat better than the narrower ones. Plan on using blades and buy accordingly.

 

Hey Jeep07,
Personally, I'm not fond of a sawzall for metal cutting unless there is absolutely no recourse. I find that a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a good(Sait) .045 cutoff disc will cut most anything and can do it in many configurations. The guys are correct in the teeth number as I would prefer the 18tpi for most steels and get the best blades you can. If you have a vari-speed, the slower stroke will do the best along with cutting fluid. JMHO..... Denny

 

To let you know what you can do with a sawzall I've had to remove 2 large hydraulic cylinders from a horizontal baler that had the pins sieze up in the pin clevises. 2" pins 2cuts per pin 2 cylinders just enough gap to get a sawzall blade in. Oh, the kicker this had to be done from the inside of the machine which had 1/2 a bale of cardboard in it. No other tool than a sawzall could have pulled this off. By the way this was done with dewalt blades but any good major brand blade would have worked.

 

One tip that saved me once i learned it: when cutting square stock using a Sawzall, start from the CORNER, not the flat part of the steel. This will cut your work time down massively, save blades, and make the piece look better in the end. To some that may be common sense, however I was born without much of that apparently, and learned the hard way.

 

Nobody uses lube on sawzall blades?

OK I have a lot of people tell me they cut steel with a sawzall and have no problems. I've tried this numerous times and finally give up and go to a zip wheel etc. I'm guessing I'm using the wrong blades or just too impatient. I've bought bitmetal blades and changes speeds on the thing but it never seems to make that big of a difference.. Result is the same i give up and go a different route.

So what sawzall do you use and what blades do you buy? Pictures and details if you have them. I've run into several scenarios where I could use this technique but yet again give up and move on to a different less suitable tool that I make work for the job which results in multiple cuts to get the same result a good sawzall should do in 1 cut.

thanks!

1-I use both .045 Sait cutoff wheels in angle grinder and a Milwaukee Super-Sawzall. They both have a purpose in my work.

2-Saw blades:

a-the TPI of the blade is determined by the cut thickness, period.

b-I use bi-metal, COBALT, 'Aggressor' brand blades from McMaster-Carr. These cobalt blades will outlast normal bi-metals, by 2 to 5 times. About $2/blade in 5 packs.
I am too poor to afford cheap blades.

3-SPEED-As others have mentioned, cut with relatively slow speed. Revving up, will just burn up the blade. In stainless, go even slower.

4-LUBE that blade! Normally I use a big wax cutting stick tube, jam the blade into the wax to coat it. Any blade, drill, etc. needs lube and coolant to last. Repeat the lubing with wax or oil, during the cutting.

 

One word for a good sawzall. Milwaukee.

 

You can cut through pipe and heavy wall steel with the one of the Milwaukee blades. I forget if it is the AX or the torch. They have big teeth but cut like mad. You can cut from 3/16" to 3/8" with one of them.

For thin steel like 26-18 gauge duct work, I use the fine I believe they are 24 teeth per inch, Milwaukee blades, only because they do not make as much noise, and cut rather nicely or smoothly without grabbing the duct so much. They do go dull after about ten feet of cutting, but when you cannot get in to snip it comes in handy.

For 16 gauge to 1/8" what David said.

Sincerely,


William McCormick