It is a very good stick machine. It is a good TIG machine, but requires a torch with valve (unless it has been changed since the units shipped in august07). It does have lift arc. Picked up three units at work in august, and all three have done champion service. On 120V single phase, there are output limits on TIG like with stick, but not as low.

 

If you're intending to use the Maxstar 200 for TIG more than stick, why not buy the SD or DX model, which are both made specifically for TIG, instead of the STR model? Both have the gas valve and high frequency start already built in. The DX also has pulse, if you're into that.

 

I picked this up when I really didn't know much about tig. It cost $700 and is like new. I had to pick up a new contractor kit which was $575.

If I were doing it now I would by the SX or DX model.

Jim

 

Oh ok, sorry I didn't understand your situation clearly. I guess you could hook up an HF251D1 freq box if you want high freq start and internal gas valve and pre/post flow gas timers. Kinda expensive though...

 

Unless you have a real need for HF, don't worry about it. I use lift-arc as much or more than HF on my 150, and the 200 lift arc is pretty much the same. The main issue is using a torch with a valve on it, which a lot of people don't like. You need to be careful to be sure the flow is on before strikeing, and to shut the flow off after breaking. That's all. You can use a remote to cut the arc (on the stepping that I have used, at least), or pull off to break it and bring the torch back in for postflow (which takes a little practice, but works fine) A foot or hand switch is easy to set up.... the main expense is the connector. Hold the button, lift, weld, release the button to stop the arc. It may also have the 2-touch button setting (Never looked to see on the 200. The 150s have it), where you push-and-release once to enable the machine, touch and lift to start, weld, then push-and-release a second time to stop the arc. Handy occasionally, especially in awkward locations.

The Miller TIG torch that you will want is probably a variant of the DB17V (150 amp at 100% duty cycle, air cooled), or any equivelant. The 'V' in the Miller part number is the valved version.

 

Sorry not to get back. Have been involved in another project. Thanks for the information. I was told that the unit will not weld aluminum because it is a DC only.

Jim

 

AC is a much better option for aluminum, yes. It can be done with DC, but I much prefer not to.

 

I will check to make sure that the kit has the gas valve as you suggested. If this works out I might be picking up a larger unit. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jim