Metal Shear restore using electrolysis

[SWells]

Dad gave me an old shear and I wanted to restore it before putting it to use. Having read about electrolysis but never done it, I thought this would be a good project to test it out on. It's a safe, non-destructive method to remove rust and have no impact on the good metal. Here's what I did.

Started with a trip to Walmart to pick up the supplies, a 98L storage bin and a box of Arm and Hammer Washing soda (not baking soda which is sodium BIcarbonate, you need sodium carbonate). Total cost of a whopping $16.



Next I bent 4 pieces of 1/8" scrap and hung it over the sides of the container. This is what the + side of the battery charger will be connected to.



I sacrificed an old extension cord and stripped the copper wire to connect it all together, first the + sacrificial anode....metal strips.



Here's a pic of the shear disassembled, I'm only doing the base for now. The rest of the pieces will be done in round #2.




Continued........

[SWells]

I estimated that I had 20 gallons of water and mixed in 25 tablespoons of the sodium carbonate (1-2 tablespoons/gallon, kepe sayz "more is not better"). Here we are ready to go!



Within 10-15 minutes you can tell that somethings happening.



The battery charger is set to 12 volts, 2 amps, the meter reads about 1/4 of the way up.....just a trickle. this is what you have at 12 hours. I'll leave it in for 2-3 days.




Never being someone to leave well enough alone, I decided to "pimp my shear handle". the original was just a piece of pipe. I replaced that with a smaller piece of 1/4" wall crs that I hit with a flap wheel first. The bottom was cut off the original and welded to the end to slip over the shaft on the cutter and a gas fitting was chopped up to give me a brass cap on the end.

[SWells]

Here's the progress report (41 hours). First a pic of the brew, the additional 2 anodes are on the ends and seem to be doing their job as you can see the pile of crud coming off them. I pulled it out and had a look. Seems to be covered in a blackish/grey crud, the paint is quite wrinkled and looks like it will brush off easily.



I bent up some coat hangers (after sanding the paint off them) and got the second batch ready to go. Found the remains of a wire basket that will work well for the small pieces. I plan to put an additional anode on the bottom when I drop this in.



Finally I finished off the handle and gave it a coat of paint. Comments welcome on the best type to use for the main parts.

[SWells]

Here we are at the 62 hour point. The reaction seemed to be slowing down so 2 1/2 days later it was time to come out. Here's a pic after I scraped the worst of the gunk off and wiped it with a dry rag. It did a great job, the rust is totally gone and the old paint just wiped off. Second pic is after I took a wire brush to it and gave it a coat of WD40 to prevent rerusting while I finish up the rest.





The old brass tag looks good after a clean up with hand cleaner. I found a BRITISH STEEL marking (top of 1st pic) that I couldn't see before, along with another 1940 stamp, and a larger cHAM ENGLAND marking. A better pic of the cleaned up weld...



I placed a larger piece of 1/8" flat in the bottom of the bucket, wired it up and dropped in the second batch after topping off the water/soap and skimming the crud off the top.

[farmersamm]

It does an excellent job. I never would have believed it unless I'd seen it.

What do you do with the crud?

[SWells]

The crud I scraped off into a bucket, once it dries up I'll throw it in the garbage.

[kepe]

The crud is nothing more than water, washing soda and rust...simply put
...oops, Stans mixture contains paint also ...I stand corrected.

Nice job, Stan!

[SWells]

Thanks again kepe, it would not have come out as good as it did if it wasn't for the coaching you provided over on John's site, it is appreciated. You get some of the credit for the results!

[farmersamm]

Bein' mostly iron, I wonder if it might do a good job as a plant food for some of the bushes etc. around your house. Put it on something that you won't miss if it doesn't work out.

This process doesn't seem to remove any metal. Do you think it would work on really light gage metal? I have some toy trucks that belonged to my father during the 30's, and I'd like to restore them.

[SWells]

I'm not an expert on this stuff, but I understand that this is the process they use on artifacts and sunken treasure. It's not suppose to remove any good metal at all. If it was mine and I was sure that a restoration, wouldn't hurt the value.....this is the process I'd use.

[SWells]

If anyone has any info about this shear / British Steel or the East London Engineering Works, I'd be curious to hear it.

[farmersamm]

I'm not an expert on this stuff, but I understand that this is the process they use on artifacts and sunken treasure. It's not suppose to remove any good metal at all. If it was mine and I was sure that a restoration, wouldn't hurt the value.....this is the process I'd use.

Thanks, I'll try it with a piece of scrap light gage this Winter.

Really glad you put this up on the site.

[Oldiron2]

Bein' mostly iron, I wonder if it might do a good job as a plant food for some of the bushes etc. around your house. Put it on something that you won't miss if it doesn't work out.

An old machinist friend gave me a garbage can full of cast iron chips; he says they make good 'fertilizer' for around roses, but I'll melt them one of these days. Whether they, or the 'crud' above would be useful partly depends on your soil and what already is in it. Too much iron can make uptake of Magnesium harder, and Mag. is needed for chlorophyll.

This process doesn't seem to remove any metal. Do you think it would work on really light gage metal? I have some toy trucks that belonged to my father during the 30's, and I'd like to restore them.

If they are really collectors items, their 'monetary value' is best if they are left alone. I've never been good at selling things; anyway, the 'sentimental' value value usually counts more to me.......
The size or thickness of the parts will make no difference on the electrolytic action, but hooking the wires up backwards will. You can always test the process using different concentrations or even trying bicarb. (which also should work) to see what you like best.
Try some scrap metal, some rusty cans, some small pieces with inside corners to see whether those get done last or at all.

[ProficientBumbler]

I think this is a great process! Other than the "soda" the other parts can probably be reused over & over again, at least it appears so. Gonna save you money on grinding disc's & flap disc's, & no damage to the part you are working on.

Additionaly, two days of it sitting in a bath frees up two days for you to work on something else. I don't know what, maybe a bad a** eagle?

Thanks for the insight!

[SWells]

I think this is a great process! Other than the "soda" the other parts can probably be reused over & over again, at least it appears so. Gonna save you money on grinding disc's & flap disc's, & no damage to the part you are working on.

Additionaly, two days of it sitting in a bath frees up two days for you to work on something else. I don't know what, maybe a bad a** eagle?

Thanks for the insight!

Is there a hint in there . You got it PB, you will have to replace the metal strips, they were heavily pitted (25%-30% metal missing) after the first piece. For the cost of the soda, I suspect I'll wash out the tub and start fresh again with new metal and solution next batch I do.

[SWells]

When placing the sacrifical anodes (metal strips) there needs to be a "line of sight" between the strip and the piece being cleaned....eg. if you were cleaning a can, you would want a strip inside the can. Not just around the outside. More seems to work better, and don't let them touch the piece being cleaned.

[kepe]

Thanks again kepe, it would not have come out as good as it did if it wasn't for the coaching you provided over on John's site, it is appreciated. You get some of the credit for the results!

You are most welcome, but you did the work...I just gave you a few pointers from many times that I have done the process. Anyhow, it worked great!!

[ProficientBumbler]

Is there a hint in there . You got it PB, you will have to replace the metal strips, they were heavily pitted (25%-30% metal missing) after the first piece. For the cost of the soda, I suspect I'll wash out the tub and start fresh again with new metal and solution next batch I do.

I guess that is why they call the metal strips sacrificial. I did not expect that much erosion on the metal strips, but I guess that is the process that protects the work piece.

Still, not an expensive process & seems like a good way to remove a lot of old rust without a lot of effort!

Hint? You caught me! I just love looking at that eagle!

[ProficientBumbler]

Sorry, forgot to ask...did you use the same metal strips for the separate parts as you did the main part of the shear? You didn't have to change them out after the body did you?

[slamdvw]

About the parts in the basket ( nuts, bolts, pins, etc..etc ) wouldn't being behind that metal cage inhibit the removal process? Im thinking faraday cage, but could be wrong. Plastic maybe??

Just a thought. Glad to see a 'how to'... i have some rusty stuff that needs a good cleaning. Thanks.

[SWells]

PB, yes I reused the metal strips on the second batch, but I doubt I'll get a third use from them I'll wipe one down and post a pic once finished round#2.

Slamdvw, I hope by leaving it in long enough it will catch that too. I have been giving the basket a shake from time to time. You would have to wire each piece together to get the - current to it if using plastic....may as well hang it.

[farmersamm]

An old machinist friend gave me a garbage can full of cast iron chips; he says they make good 'fertilizer' for around roses, but I'll melt them one of these days. Whether they, or the 'crud' above would be useful partly depends on your soil and what already is in it. Too much iron can make uptake of Magnesium harder, and Mag. is needed for chlorophyll.



If they are really collectors items, their 'monetary value' is best if they are left alone. I've never been good at selling things; anyway, the 'sentimental' value value usually counts more to me.......
The size or thickness of the parts will make no difference on the electrolytic action, but hooking the wires up backwards will. You can always test the process using different concentrations or even trying bicarb. (which also should work) to see what you like best.
Try some scrap metal, some rusty cans, some small pieces with inside corners to see whether those get done last or at all.

I know exactly what you mean about restoration and the value. Better left alone.

Dad passed in April. I don't want to sell the trucks. I want to keep them. It was always a treat to be allowed to play with them when I was little. A bus, Mack dump, and a Mack tanker. I'd like to see them looking like they were when his parents gave them to him.

Same with the 64' Dodge Coronet sittin' out in the yard (2 door, 318 wide block, 3 speed on the column, and it still runs well). Dad bought it new, and drove it until he lost his license. The money went to buy Mom a new car once in a while. Plymouth Fury III, and later a Ford Crown Vic. He always wanted her in a big car because it was safer. When my Grandfather died, Dad gave his 56' Dodge to Mom because it was big. That man placed a lot of value on his family. I miss him.

[ProficientBumbler]

Thanks SWells & Kepe!

Great info!

Love learning new stuff!

[ProficientBumbler]

I know exactly what you mean about restoration and the value. Better left alone.

Dad passed in April. I don't want to sell the trucks. I want to keep them. It was always a treat to be allowed to play with them when I was little. A bus, Mack dump, and a Mack tanker. I'd like to see them looking like they were when his parents gave them to him.

Same with the 64' Dodge Coronet sittin' out in the yard (2 door, 318 wide block, 3 speed on the column, and it still runs well). Dad bought it new, and drove it until he lost his license. The money went to buy Mom a new car once in a while. Plymouth Fury III, and later a Ford Crown Vic. He always wanted her in a big car because it was safer. When my Grandfather died, Dad gave his 56' Dodge to Mom because it was big. That man placed a lot of value on his family. I miss him.

Restored or not farmersamm, keep em! It is all about memories! Sorry for your loss!

[kepe]

If they are really collectors items, their 'monetary value' is best if they are left alone. I've never been good at selling things; anyway, the 'sentimental' value value usually counts more to me.......

Oldiron2, I would agree with you on some things, but what Stan is doing is 100% non-destructive rust removal and will not affect the monetary value. Also, his shear isn't old enough to be considered a collectors item because it was originally painted. If it had been japanned, it would have been a different matter.
All of the restoration projects I have done were to "restore" the machine to original, not modify it.

Brian, thanks