Here are some pics of my homemade square tubing bender die that I made from 1/4" steel plate and a cheapo HF pipe bender. The tubing is 1" square 0.125" wall 6061-T6 aluminum. The bend shown was just a test in the T6 tube to check for deformation. I plan on having the tubing annealed back to the "0" condition before the actual bends are made. I debated filling the tube with sand to maintain the tubing shape, but found this wasn't necessary. This was a much, much cheaper alternative to buying a professional bender with the appropriate die. I also found that most of the professional square tubing dies have a "crusher" strip in the center that purposely collapses the wall along the inside of the bend. This would be unacceptable for a clean looking bend. I can post additional pics and/or a printout of the die pattern if anybody is interested.
Linde/Union Carbide HDA-300
Hobart RC-250
Lincoln AC-225
Lincoln WeldPak 100
Hobart Stickmate LX
Victor OxyAcetylene
Here is a way I came up with to bend short sections of tubing. That is 3/4 inch tubing. It worked well for that job. I bent 90 parts with multiple bends per part.
Probably would be a good Idea for those recumbent seat.
Not a home made tool but a home made tool rack (socket rack). Just a little something I’m making for the tool set I got my son for graduation. Using 1’ wide 1/8” thick mild steel flat bar I welded two rectangles 11” x 16” (16’ is the length of the socket holders) x 6 spaced 2” apart. I then drilled and tapped holes for the bolt studs, threaded ¾" lengths of threaded rod through the holes and welded the studs on the back side. Ground the welds flat and smooth so the rack would lie flat in a tool chest drawer. The socket holders are held in place by wing nuts to facilitate easy removal – in case you want to take some with you. Each rack holds 6 socket holders, each socket holder will hold between 15 and 20 sockets, depending on size. The rack is heavy enough when combined with the weight of the sockets so that you can remove a single socket without the rack coming with it. One is already primed and painted , #2 goes to paint tomorrow. Fits nicely in a tool chest drawer. Fist rack for SAE (standard measure) sockets, the second one is for the metric. Maybe one for the deep socket next - different design to fit in drawer.
Didn't know you could do that on a bend. I have an old camper shell that's made out of aluminum, and all of the 90's have a concave thing on the inside of the bend.
How tight of a radius can you bend like the pics show?
The die I made was for a 4.5" centerline bending radius on 1" square tube. You could probably get away with a 4" centerline radius, but I haven't tried it. I have a PDF of the template I used to make the die if anybody needs it.
Linde/Union Carbide HDA-300
Hobart RC-250
Lincoln AC-225
Lincoln WeldPak 100
Hobart Stickmate LX
Victor OxyAcetylene
Here are some shots of some toolholders I made for my lathe. The first poorly focused picture is of an original Aloris; the second is my copy of the standard form on the left and my design of one with back rake on the right; while the third shows another of my design with longer reach on the top left, and the back rake design again on the lower right.
Mine were all casehardened after machining.
Thanks.
The steel came from plates (and jigs) removed (and sectioned for easier handling) from a pair of rotary-table indexing machines. They were milled on a Bridgeport running on a rotary converter, drilled and tapped on the mill too, and hardened either in the fireplace or in a small Lindburg furnace I picked up years ago. The carbonizing was done with old leather scraps, low temp charcoal, whatever was at hand.
The toolbits I use were scrounged here and there; long ago, I did buy some new blanks but have never needed them yet.
I can't get to anything but the lathe right now; too much stuff in the way! Doesn't matter really' I'm always wasting my time here now!....
NYS3, PDF link please? VERY good job! I have been wondering if it were possible to bend square without that crush strip in the inner radius.
What did you use to bear against the edges of the tubing on each end and, did you clamp the outside center radius of the tube in any way (to prevent it from rising from the die and kinking at the bend)?
Stew in Reno
Fill with brake fluid - tighten fill plug - through shrader apply 30 lbs air - connect a rubber hose to the copper tube and hook the other end to your open brake bleeder - turn it up side down and open the valve - fluid will be pushed through system forcing any air to vent through the master cylinder. start with wheel furtherest from the master cylinder.
With regards to the square tubing bender die questions:
I had cut out two square wood blocks to replace the standard cast iron circular rollers that support each end of the tubing. Holes were drilled in the wooden blocks to accept the steel pin on each side. I chose wood for ease of fabrication and it's non-scratch surface when sliding against the aluminum tube. I did not clamp the outside center radius at all during the bend. I debated filling the tube with sand, but it wasn't necessary. I coated the inside of the bender die with white lithium grease to cut down on internal friction between the tube and die. It is important that the die is constructed with the three bolts as shown in the pictures. This allows the removal of the sidewall supports once the bend is complete. If it is a solid welded piece, friction may make it extremely difficult to remove the tube from the die. In my previous post, I had mentioned that the die was constructed from 1/4" steel. It's hard to see in the photos, but the center (circular portion) of the die is fabricated from four (4) pieces of 1/4" steel plate cut on a bandsaw to the same pattern, tack welded together, then hand filed smooth along the bending surface. If you look close, you can see each individual piece.
Linde/Union Carbide HDA-300
Hobart RC-250
Lincoln AC-225
Lincoln WeldPak 100
Hobart Stickmate LX
Victor OxyAcetylene
Her is an easy but handy bevel guide for a plasma torch. These are right and left 45°. 30°-60°-90° also get used a lot.
Great yet simple and handy tool. Two gold stars.
MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1
Syncrowave 180SD
Bobcat 225G Plus - LP/NG
MUTT Suitcase Wirefeeder
WC-1S/Spoolmatic 1
HF-251D-1
PakMaster 100XL
'68 Red Face Code #6633 project
Star Jet 21-110
Save Second Base!
If you have a pressure washer this will pull your hose through a pipe to clean it out. Misplaced the actual nozzle so I'm submitting the drawing.
Great idea MM. The big ones I've seen usually have a jet pointing forward as well to aid in 'boring through' a clog.
MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1
Syncrowave 180SD
Bobcat 225G Plus - LP/NG
MUTT Suitcase Wirefeeder
WC-1S/Spoolmatic 1
HF-251D-1
PakMaster 100XL
'68 Red Face Code #6633 project
Star Jet 21-110
Save Second Base!
Take a 1/8" zerk and hit the top with a grinder the ball and spring will fall out.
stuff or solder it to a 1/4 hose fttg. Screw it into a 1/4" tee. Add an air hose, sand hose and valve.
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WeldingWeb Apprentice
Originally Posted by Magnetic Mechanic
Master Welder
