1936 SA200 Restoration

[MrBeast]

Man that is nuts looking at the level of corrosion, and looking at what you are doing it actually looks like you are going to get it running again eventually.

I wonder if you will wind up having to sleeve the cylinders or not to make em right?

[mattyg1405]

holy cow! you my friend brought a whole new meaning to "restoration... @andex

[slowhand]

Wow. (is an understatement I'm sure).

I'm impressed. By the looks of the communicators I'd say it'll weld.

And by looking at your pics I'd say you can make it do just that.

Good luck on your project man,
Slowhand

[andex]

MinnesotaDave
I have a "Big Hammer", it wieghs 12lbs and it's name is "Patience"

Wolf
I have been looking into a couple of shops in my area that could do a thorough job of any refurbishment that the generator may need. I have sent messages to a few friends in the antique engine world. They are of the of the get it done like it was the first time mind set. The hard part of that is that they dont give to much thought to the cost. Flawless restorations but you could start a college education with the funds.

MrBeast
I have delt with worse, but I didnt have to be anywhere near as concerned with not damaging original parts. Replacement parts were readily available and cost less for new than trying to save the old. Also "Patience" got to play, lots of heat and the cutting torch sped things up.
Sleeves ? As bad as it looks I had a F163 that looked worse than this motor. After a cleaning and a quick hone I was able to use pistons of the same size. I have found a source for pistons. They are aluminium not iron as the originals. Although I have found that it came with either. So it will come down to what size the cylinders will clean up at and what size pistons are available.


mattyg1405
Its a passion

slowhand
I would say that the total hours on this machine were very very low. I believe it has the original brushes in it.

[andex]

In between Easter activities I was able to get it little bit more done.
I just had to get the valves out if it would let me. And it did but there was a bit of resistence.
When I compressed the valve springs the locks didnt seperate from the retainers. So it was time to Adapt Overcome and Improvise. The paw on the crowbar had just the rite spread so I could lift the retainer and give the valve a good wrap with the deadblow hammer and presto the two were seperated.

[andex]

Now I could compress the spring



and coax the locks out with the magnet



All 8 valves are out and all the parts are salvageable if replacements cant be found

[andex]

TDC mark centered over a bolt hole



Front of flange, not keyed or Pinned


Rear, #1 was just past TDC and both valves were closed, Looks like I will reference #1 to TDC before reinstalling the flange

[andex]

Rear seal retainer. It does bolt to the lower crankcase.



Backside of retainer



Seal removed, I was a little surprised to see that much rust on the oil slinger.

[andex]

And its seperated



In this photo you can see the other hidden pin below the Magneto bracket.






and thats it til......

[kolot]

Friend of mine was cleaning out the garage, said you like to mess around with flathead side valve engines, here!
[ATTACH]359021[/ATTACH
For reaching in and compressing the valves, bet Andex would have to have quite a squeeze to free up those valves on his 36. I just picked up my first short hood , will post later.

[jones6780]

Did you put that dab of white paint on the end of the crankshaft? Looks to line up with the timing mark.

[andex]

kolot
That looks like one of the tools my dentist used to pull my tooth, then used it on my wallet to help fund his sons college education... Actualy I had a version of these years ago that I used on mower motors. Hmm they might be somewhere in the garage.

jones6780
I did put the dab of white there for reference in the photos. The crank flange had no mark to reference it to the crank.

[duaneb55]

Not sure if those particular bushings are available but Lord is still alive and well.
http://www.lord.com/products-and-sol...l-bushings.xml

[57 Long Hood]

Now I could compress the spring



and coax the locks out with the magnet



All 8 valves are out and all the parts are salvageable if replacements cant be found

I read somewhere that springs should not be blasted,supposed to harden them and make brittle.Just in case new ones aren't available.Just a thought...

[andex]

7A749
duaneb55
I spent a few minutes at the website. I have not measured the pins or bores bu I dont believe they will be anything strange. Should be able to match somthing up once I find a good parts reference from them.

57 Long Hood
Could be true. There can be a bit of heat generated from the blast media.

[andex]

Got a bit more done on the engine Sunday afternoon and tonight.
I was able to locate an original Waukesha service manual.




although it was printed 22 years after this motor was made.



I looked at what it had to say about removing the Governor.

It doesnt go into great detail or get very complicated or even refer to Fig. #, but it does say " Remove Governor"

So lets start there.

[andex]

Ok remove the upper and lower mounting bolts. Still tight to the cover.
Lets remove the cover.

[andex]

A few bolt and the front pulley.



More shims, behind the nut



The pulley was snug to the shaft but I was able to pull off by hand

[andex]

One more item first.
The Magneto Bracket bolts into the front cover. Oh but wait,



first the mag has to be removed from the bracket




to access on of the bracket bolts.

[andex]

So three bolts and two tapered pins and the mag bracket comes off.

[andex]

Inside the front cover..caked with sludge and a coating of rust.
Why change the oil when all you neeed to do is add some? The good is the sludge protects what under it. The bad will be seen later.




OH MY!

[andex]

So what was it that we were doing? Oh yes, remove governor. Hmmm.

The Governor drive gear is held on by a taper pin and of course we are looking at the fat end. But what is holding the Governor to the plate? cant see it yet.





Cam bolt and indexer.





Idler gear, watch out, another shim.

[andex]

This old rack is working out way better than I ever thought of originally. To think I aved it from the scrap man many a year ago.

[andex]

Are we ready to look inside?

[andex]

This is the first rod bearing to come out. Original....




Notice how all the bearing journals have a black discoloration. This is a sign of old engine oil that has become acidic. The acidity starts to eat at the babbit in the bearings. Also note the original shims are still intact.





This is the first sign of engine failure. #1 rod bearing had spun in the rod.