Cool. How bout some oaw since you are already set up for it?

 

It'll be coming along here soon

 

For general OA situations I teach my kids the following ratios- 2:1 for brazing (10 psi oxygen, 5 p.s.i acetylene) and 6:1 for cutting

I make my first year kids do 6-8 weeks of O/A. The first year I taught, I only had them do it for 2 weeks and then they were horrible when it came to the other processes took them longer to develop the feel and "see" the puddle. The fine puddle manipulation really helped them to actually "see" the puddle.

 

Thanks Lanse,

Cast iron would be great. How about stainless to stainless, and stainless to copper. Lots of guys on the beer brewing forums that are looking for decent videos on soldering copper and stainless.
I'd like to see silver soldering too, but that can be expensive.

 

You guys need to study the brazing, the advantages, and technique. This was not a good video. It looks like two weldors treating brazing as welding. Regardless of what you explain in the beginning, you guys braze and analyze the braze as one might a weld.

For those lap joints. Capillary action should be discussed. Perhaps walk the bronze out the other side of the coupon. What about cleaning the coupons? You guy are only looking at the surface. While it should be controlled what is going on underneath is most important.

torch - brazing playing 101.

 

Using the correct size brazing rod helps alot. Use a smaller diameter brazing rod for thinner materials same as you would do with stick welding or any other process. A thinner rod has a lower melting point and requires less area to be heated for the filler to melt and flow properly. I personally do not care for the flux coated rods. Finer more controlled work can be done with plain bronze rod and paste flux in my opinion. You can put the flux right where you need it so the flux is beneath the filler rod rather than on top of it so that you get less flare on top which helps you to see your filler material deposition more clearly. You can manipulate or control your heat/puddle by lightly dancing or moving your torch in a circular or slight whip and pause motion similar to stick welding.

 

Nice video Lanse. I love brazing and still use the heat and dip method.

Sweating copper makes me crazy, some pieces work perfectly. I clean, I apply flux, some heat, add the solder and it wicks right up into the joint perfectly. On another joint I tried 3 times and finally gave up the solder would not stick no matter what I did. I cleaned, sanded, polished, applied flux and the solder would never stick to the copper.

"G"

 

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it

A thinner rod doesn't have a lower melting point. Melting point depends only upon material. The thinner rod just requires less heat to melt!

Speaking of which, I noticed in the video you guys using the flame to melt the rod. I always carried the impression that the flame should never be used to melt the "solder" but only to bring the base metal up to the melting point of the "solder". I think you also could have used a smaller torch tip for the pieces you are joining. Looks like a lot of bronze there

But I do enjoy your videos. Thanks for making them!

Thanks for watching, wirehead! We were trying to form a puddle and move it along... It was fun to play around with some... :cool2:

 

Old School Brazing ?


I think the videos of Keith Fenner are more representative of that.

 

Using the correct size brazing rod helps alot. Use a smaller diameter brazing rod for thinner materials same as you would do with stick welding or any other process. A thinner rod has a lower melting point and requires less area to be heated for the filler to melt and flow properly.

A thinner rod doesn't have a lower melting point. Melting point depends only upon material. The thinner rod just requires less heat to melt!

Speaking of which, I noticed in the video you guys using the flame to melt the rod. I always carried the impression that the flame should never be used to melt the "solder" but only to bring the base metal up to the melting point of the "solder". I think you also could have used a smaller torch tip for the pieces you are joining. Looks like a lot of bronze there

But I do enjoy your videos. Thanks for making them!

 

Yep, My post probably contains several statements that are technically inaccurate or just flat out wrong . lol So take my statements with a grain of salt ...Very true tip size can make a big difference as well. I usually try to heat the base material till it turns cherry red and I see the paste flux start to run clear and then start adding the filler. I am no expert by any stretch just what seems to work best for me on light material. Like the guys say in the video you have to play around with it and find what works best for you. Way more than one way to skin a cat or stick two pieces of metal together.

 

Porn for me ! I braze and O/A weld a lot. It's very under-rated. Slow . Yes. Accurate. OH YEAH. I like the control.Sometimes I tack stiff together and finish it all with braze !
I put a lil sumthin' by my doormat and the acetylene fairy exchanges my bottle:jester:. The acetylene fairy only speaks German:drinkup: !
It flies around here.

 

If you make a line with soapstone the brazing will not flow over it, provided the base material is not over heated. It helps make a tidier looking job.

brad

 

Never head that. Out to the shop

 

Tried the soap thing. Brass never got there. I'll try it off position on another project.

 

When brazing, tinning is critical. That is the term I learned years ago to describe the cappilary action. If the (steel/iron) is heated beyond the point of tinning, the surface will "burn" (oxides) and the brass won't stick.

 

True. When I first learned airboat cages it took a while to get used to not putting too much heat on the EMT. That's where Captain Hook and a 71 Uniweld come in. Yup Airboat cages and grass rakes are nearly ALL made using EMT .Don't let anyone BS you. It's very strong if the designer has a brain. My first welding teacher had a Trumpet 650 drag bike with a brazed EMT frame and wheelie bars ! 12 second 1/4 ! Hey now. That was fast in 1969