sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

[battlelava]

Any thoughts in what to do. New rod it bearing

[duaneb55]

Refer to the information in post #5 and base your next move on that.

[battlelava]

They are all f226 d400 rods. They all are the same except the locking pins in the bearing I'd rather get it replaced but the place I ordered from dont have any

[duaneb55]

Then the easiest thing to do is get the correct bearing.

You could also have a machine shop notch the 4th rod & cap to match the other three and then all bearings would match. There wouldn't be enough material removed to worry about any balance issues - not at 1550rpm anyhow.

[battlelava]

Then the easiest thing to do is get the correct bearing.

You could also have a machine shop notch the 4th rod & cap to match the other three and then all bearings would match. There wouldn't be enough material removed to worry about any balance issues - not at 1550rpm anyhow.

I got one last try. One place locally might have the rod. Gonna check it out tomorrow if there open if not Monday

[battlelava]

So tomorrow after i get through everything the pistons (only three) are going in. The starter was put in today and it cranks over nicely. Battery is pretty well shot but that's the least of my worries. The timing gear on the crankshaft has 2 dots for timing, Im assuming i use the one in which the #1 cylinder gets to tdc. I could of sworn i saw a link for a page on timing from lincoln, cant find it now when i need it.

[duaneb55]

If you're not using an engine assembly lube, I wouldn't be cranking it over.

On the timing marks, have you read the manual yet? With the key at 12 o'clock, the timing dot to the left (about 3 teeth) lines up between the two teeth on the cam gear that have timing dots.

Page 65 or 68 in the manual depending on which one you have.

[battlelava]

Ok. The other manual said something about using a timing light didn't say anything about the second dot. The picture shows about 20 degrees before tdc. Would this be correct

[duaneb55]

The timing light is for when the unit is completely assembled and running.

The crank and cam timing gears are covered in the engine assembly section and if I understand your 20 degrees question correctly I would say yes. The photo in the manual clearly shows the single dot on the crank gear and two dots on the cam gear that are located on either side of the single crank gear dot.

[battlelava]

20 degrees before tdc for the firing. Should of stated that.

[duaneb55]

Again - that's when it's all assembled and running.

crank/cam timing gears:
Gear Timing.doc

[battlelava]

Got the timing cover on. Put the govenor in and exciter in. Going to put the front panel on today and drop the pistons in start some wiring. Hopefully alternator and water pump can be mounted too These brackets look like splash gaurds.

[60redfacer]

Those go inside the lifter cover on the side of the block. Snap in between the lifters

[battlelava]

So I got the front panel on. The coarse adjustment is broken in half so looks like that needs replacing Going to try to start some wiring hopefully. The output studs go on the left facing the stud? Fine adjustment looks like it should work with a new knob

[battlelava]

Just some pictures of some "progress" although im sure a bunch of things will be wrong have have to change. My solenoid boot is broken, any ways to repair it. 20$ isn't much compared to it working properly, but if there's a way to fix it I would like to try it for now. The idler reed gets connected like so? or do i have it backwards. and I'm assuming it gets grounded to the frame by the generator mount with the bolt right underneath it.

[duaneb55]

Those go inside the lifter cover on the side of the block. Snap in between the lifters

. . . and that one goes to the front.


Gonna have to rebuild that coarse current selector switch too.

[battlelava]

. . . and that one goes to the front.


Gonna have to rebuild that coarse current selector switch too.

Rebuild or replace. I've found a new one from bills repair for 165$.

Does the fine adjustment still look shot?

[duaneb55]

Either or. Your choice.

If you replace don't toss the old. They can be rebuilt or at least used for parts.

[battlelava]

http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=250651. This is what I'm looking to do. Going to have to pick up that board one day.

[60redfacer]

Welderpartswarehouse.net sells the range selectors for 75 but they are rebuilt

[battlelava]

And I got some more honing to do. Going to continue working tomorrow after my interview. Hopefully that's better then my progress on this machine

[60redfacer]

Just out of curiosity why didn't you take the block to a good engine machine shop for honing and boiling

[battlelava]

Just out of curiosity why didn't you take the block to a good engine machine shop for honing and boiling

The block was boiled when i got it. I didn't realize how much crap was still in the walls until i got it assembled and started honing.

[duaneb55]

Yeah, you kinda got the cart before the horse there. Honing always comes before assembly.

[60redfacer]

Yea I'm with you Duane, I usually completely assemble the engine on a bench or stand before bolting it to the armature. But just my 2cents worth