Might try posting this in the miller forum.

 

1st thing I'd do is download the manual from Miller. Then pull the cover on the machine and make sure the jumpers are set up for your input voltage. Check the voltage right at the machine with a meter. You wouldn't believe how many "problems" come from set ups that are wired "correctly" supposedly.

 

I have the manual in PDF form and everything on the back side of the machine including the jumpers are correct according to the manual

 

I would check all your caps in the HF section. If they are bad you don't get HF you just get HV. There are 3 of them. Can you get an arc going scratch staring it?

 

I'll check tmro. Can not start an arc at all, not even scratch start

 

What's your open circuit voltage with the hf off? I have a technical manual on pdf if you need it.

 

Pics of ALL the switches and settings would help.

I have that same problem when the braded line in the torch is broken inside the water tube..


...zap!

I'm thinking the same. Check OCV at the output studs, then at the torch and ground end.

If you have good OCV at the studs and none when checking at the end of the cables - you know what the problem is.

Dave J.

 

Pics of ALL the switches and settings would help.

I have that same problem when the braded line in the torch is broken inside the water tube..


...zap!

 

The knife switch is set to tig

 

I'll snap some pics tomorrow after work when I'm at my shop

 

There's no ocv at the studs. My plug is 240v with a 100amp breaker. All of my other welders work great on the same plug (cp 200, Lincoln 225 ac/dc buzz box, 200amp ac/dc square wave tig)

 

Uh-oh. If you flip the balancing resistor switch back to SMAW and set the two switches to panel (or local) - do you have OCV then?

Try clipping your meter on the studs and moving the polarity lever to each DC setting and AC.

Also try moving the range lever through its three settings.

See if it works on any of them - could be dirty contacts?

Dave J.

 

Where should I look for the wires from the missing breaker? I can't find any inside the machine that look like they go there.

 

Oh I see, your welder isn't finished being hooked up

My Airco model is slightly different so I won't be able to hook you up on that one.

Dave J.

 

I think I found where that breaker is hot wired. When the 10amp fuse is in on the front left of the machine the hot wired breaker reads 20v when the 10 amp fuse is removed it reads 70?

 

So the main breaker is removed and the wires are wrapped together?

If memory serves, without that breaker you have no welding output. So that's your best bet for getting power back up.

The 10amp fuse needs to be in as well.

Dave J.

Edit: did the former owner remove that breaker and "hot wire" it as a method of chasing a problem?

 

I will try looking at my machine this weekend. When you turn your welder contactor control to constant do you hear the main contactor pull in. Its the big one on the lower left side towards the back of the welder. From looking at the schematic the overload is in series with the main contactor coil so if it isn't hooked up your main contactor shouldn't pull up. But if your getting high frequency like you mentioned earlier that means your getting power all the way through the welder. The contactor for the hf is powered of the welder output before the hf is added to the output.

 

Not sure if this will help, but try tightening the torch head-cable connection. I had a related problem with my Longevity 200SX welder with an aftermarket smaller cable and torch head-the arc would suddenly die after a few seconds or minutes of use. This occurred after months of using it without a problem. I was able to localize the problem to the cable (the cable that came with the welder worked fine) and after tightening the very slightly loose connection between the torch head and cable, problem solved.

 

Tried that. It won't stick or tig weld. I'm selling it for parts and or scrap

 

Where the heck is your primary overload breaker switch? The rectangular hole in upper right of the panel in the pic? I'm betting that it's the source of the problem.

All repainted and going to auction. Next pic is for Steve.... #divorce sucks.

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It's hot wired and checked out fine with a meter

 

Ahh. Okay.

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Taking it up tmw morning else I would hit ya up for those decals. its Ford tractor blue if anyone is curious