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jord1385

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have an Esab Heliarc 252 that I bought used at a school auction. When I use it for TIG, while in DC, the arc is sporadic and quickly burns through. I'm using a red tungsten and 100% argon for stainless and mild steel. It also doesn't want to strike an arc at times and you have to almost scratch start it, although I'm using a pedal. I have not attempted AC.

I also hooked up a mig wire feeder (Hobart) and attempted to use it as a simple DC power source. It initially shoots a flame from the tip(similar to a torch flame) and then the wire will just pile up on the base material without melting any base.

I am wondering if anyone has any experience with this type of problem or any direction I can look to fix it.

Thanks for any help.
 
Welcome to the forum jord1385.:waving:

I don't know your machine but a couple things come to mind about what you've described. You've probably drawing the same conclusion but it sounds as if the problem lies in the current control. This could be in the machine itself or the foot pedal. If you have a wiring schematic you can check the pedal operation with an ohm meter to see if it's operating smoothly or erratic throughout its travel range. I'll look for some info on the machine and if I find it and come up with anything I'll post it.

As for hooking up that wire feeder, if it's not a 'voltage sensing' type designed to operate with a CC (Constant Current) machine such as your ESAB 252 it's not going to work as MIG uses CV (Constant Voltage) power sources.

Got a model number on the Hobart and serial numbers on both machines? How about some photos of them as well?
 
Does the arc strike more consistantly if you hold it very close to the material? If so, there might be a problem with your high-freq. Can you hear it buzz when you go to strike an arc?

As for the arc being sporadic, what do you mean by that? Does it go in and out or does it wander uncontrollably?

Set the machine to scratch start and unplug the pedal, see if that helps with the burning through and arc starting.
 
I dunno perhaps take it apart and thorough clean the machine and check for all worn consumables, liners, and for good connections throughout because this has been an institutional machine that may have sat in the same spot and abused.Get a schematic from the manufacturer and service manual, some give you a go, no go series of senarios to diagnose electronic problems?
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the welcoming.

The wire feeder is a Hobart model 17, and is usually hooked up to a Hobart Fabstar 2620. The serial number on the ESAB is TC-1704034. I'll work on getting some pics.

I ran a few tests according to everyone's instructions and I do hear the hi-freq before the arc starts, and I set it to scratch start but it still had an erratic arc. Even in scratch start the arc is sporadic, meaning it constantly pops or pulses and it wanders around. It also pops out sparks (like small spatter from a mig). Another issue is that my water pump trips the breaker when I hook it up to the auxiliary 110v receptacle.

When I initially bought the welder, I opened it up and it was spotless inside. I have heard of checking the gaps in the high frequency, would that be a possible issue?

And don't worry about the worn consumables, I grind my tungsten everytime it takes a dip. :)
 
You're using DCEN, right? Good ground? Check the cable connections at both ends and the argon fittings.

When my arc goes nuts, it's usually because I forgot to turn on the argon. :blush:

Every once in a while, someone hooks up a bottle of C-25 by mistake.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I'm getting good flow from the argon, and all connections seem pretty sound. I ran it on both DC modes just to make sure I wasn't losing my mind. I actually hooked up a bottle of C25 before I got a bottle of Argon and all it did was shoot out a crazy arc and melt back my tungsten. :realmad:

Keep the ideas coming guys, I need all the help I can get.
 
Where are you located? Maybe somebody is kinda close to you that can help. I have the same machine I got from a school auction that was a DOA unit. All that was wrong with mine was a loose connection on the PCB board. I called the instructor at the local tech school and he was nice enough to come look at the machine for me and give me some pointers.
 
You're using DCEN, right? Good ground? Check the cable connections at both ends and the argon fittings.
Jord, what he means is are you welding with the ground on the positive and the torch on the negative? DC Electrode Negative (DCEN) is standard tig polarity. If you have the ground on the negative, the arc will flutter andl jump and your tungsten will ball up quick.
 
I would sudgest that you contace ESAB. I have heard from other members that they have a very good technical support staff, and an even better policy on defective equipment.
 
Thanks for the welcoming.

The wire feeder is a Hobart model 17, and is usually hooked up to a Hobart Fabstar 2620. The serial number on the ESAB is TC-1704034. I'll work on getting some pics.

I ran a few tests according to everyone's instructions and I do hear the hi-freq before the arc starts, and I set it to scratch start but it still had an erratic arc. Even in scratch start the arc is sporadic, meaning it constantly pops or pulses and it wanders around. It also pops out sparks (like small spatter from a mig). Another issue is that my water pump trips the breaker when I hook it up to the auxiliary 110v receptacle.

When I initially bought the welder, I opened it up and it was spotless inside. I have heard of checking the gaps in the high frequency, would that be a possible issue?

And don't worry about the worn consumables, I grind my tungsten everytime it takes a dip. :)
I do not know that welder. Do you have 208 voltage in your area. If you do, make sure the welder is hooked up for 208 volts.

I have actually run a machine on 240 when it was hooked up for 208, for years with no problem. But when I hooked up a machine wired for 240 to 208 I had big problems.

In TIG DCEN or straight polarity. Put the high frequency controls to a center range position. Put the ARC control or ARC settings to a neutral position. Turn off any pulsing or any options like that.


Sincerely,


William McCormick
 
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