Show us what you welded today

[Munkul]

Here ya go ronsii and I did weld most this box up including the big side one under the hydraulics There’s hydraulics under the bed in front on the gate alsoAttachment 1724375

How does the tail lift work? It looks really nice... I'm guessing an upright ram hidden behind the steelwork, fixed, with that square tube on two pivoting ends?

[farmersammm]

There's a 502 problem,, so I figured I'd repost the welds in question.

Craters have always been a sore point for me. I just hardly ever fill them. It's just an ingrained thing I can't seem to remember to do most of the time. I'm getting a bit better at it, but still seem to forget most of the time,, unless I'm welding tubing, and wrap the welds around the corners.

Now....................as far as cold starts.......................

The only doggone way I know of to alleviate cold starts is to use a runoff (run-on) tab, or be lucky enough to have some material to start the weld on, before it actually hits the joint you're trying to weld.

You can see how I approached the problem in this series of welds. The weld extends about 1/2" beyond/before the joint

Corners are wrapped by backstepping into the previous weld. (that's a chipping hammer ding BTW, so sit back down in yer seats)

[farmersammm]

Same procedure here........backstepping into the previous weld in order to wrap the corners.

Now, as far as undercut goes............I defy anyone to find any undercut in the stuff I do

Terrible position,, trying to weld over my head while the damn thing is only about a foot off the ground.



More of the same. 11ga tubing to 3/16 tubing.

[farmersammm]

I might blow out a corner on occasion, but well............it ain't undercut

[motolife313]

We have to knock off every single mingle berry on the whole box and frame here. The guy is a perfectionist 99% of the time. Total opposite from the last shop. These guys want the best. Gives him confidence to sell and say I got the best out there

[M J D]

Yep and the pointer rod is adjustable to "shoot" angled openings too. Big time saver.

We have to knock off every single mingle berry on the whole box and frame here. The guy is a perfectionist 99% of the time. Total opposite from the last shop. These guys want the best. Gives him confidence to sell and say I got the best out there

Do you use any type of anti spatter spray? There are some water based ones that could be sprayed on to eliminate a lot of that. Spatter really likes to stick to that abrasion resistant stuff, just like stainless steel does.

[bead-boy]

I didn't realize Crysteel was that big. My whole life I have been driving by their facility on Hwy 60 in Lake Crystal, Minnesota (hence the name Crysteel). I assumed it was a local company, but I don't do anything in that industry so don't know any better.
Just checked their website and it appears they sold the company in 2005. I wonder how big that check was???

https://www.crysteel.com/products-markets/history

[motolife313]

Do you use any type of anti spatter spray? There are some water based ones that could be sprayed on to eliminate a lot of that. Spatter really likes to stick to that abrasion resistant stuff, just like stainless steel does.

Yes we do. I use the heck out of it but there’s still berrys that stick. Everything has to be baby but smooth. The whole box has to have a hand ran over it without a glove to make sure. I do this a lot,not just at the end. It’s 1620 spray, has a strange smell. The cup and tip get sprayed also and cleaned a lot

[M J D]

Yep and the pointer rod is adjustable to "shoot" angled openings too. Big time saver.

Yes we do. I use the heck out of it but there’s still berrys that stick. Everything has to be baby but smooth. The whole box has to have a hand ran over it without a glove to make sure. I do this a lot,not just at the end. It’s 1620 spray, has a strange smell. The cup and tip get sprayed also and cleaned a lot

Sounds like it's covered. An old wood chisel works good for scraping off spatter.

[Lis2323]

Sounds like it's covered. An old wood chisel works good for scraping off spatter.

That would work better than my homemade scraper but I'm not sure I could ever bring myself to using one LOL






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[motolife313]

Sounds like it's covered. An old wood chisel works good for scraping off spatter.

I’ve used theres. I use my 1” or so chisel and the bosses flat berry chisel about 2” wide or more. I wanna weld a drill bit on the end of my chisel. Worried about digging in the metal tho but I’m going to try it with the 1” chisel

[cwby]

Sounds like it's covered. An old wood chisel works good for scraping off spatter.

Just grind an edge on the end of a file to use to cut BB's off the steel. Watch the heat from the grinding & the edge will stay sharp for a long time. Tough BB's may require a whack on the end with a small hammer, but it is precise.

[tapwelder]

I found a masonry chisel works well. The mass of the tool assist in moving spatter easily. I use a 4 inch one. Great for raking tables too. Doesn't seem to suffer noticeable damage

[Welder Dave]

We have to knock off every single mingle berry on the whole box and frame here. The guy is a perfectionist 99% of the time. Total opposite from the last shop. These guys want the best. Gives him confidence to sell and say I got the best out there

Most weldors would clean the spatter off regardless if it was company policy or not. It's called taking pride in your work. That's also why most would try to get the settings correct to eliminate as much spatter as possible.

As far as a scraper for slag or spatter the best I ever saw was a steel fabricator used carbide inserts and brazed them on to a flat bar about 3" wide with a length of round bar with a T for the handle. The ones he used were a square shape and also had an angle on them. Was the Cat's azz for cleaning slag on torch cut parts and also very good for removing spatter.

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail...129642273.html

[M J D]

Yep and the pointer rod is adjustable to "shoot" angled openings too. Big time saver.

I found a masonry chisel works well. The mass of the tool assist in moving spatter easily. I use a 4 inch one. Great for raking tables too. Doesn't seem to suffer noticeable damage

I use one for knocking dross off of plasma or torch cut edges.

[Oscar]

There's a 502 problem,, so I figured I'd repost the welds in question.

Craters have always been a sore point for me. I just hardly ever fill them. It's just an ingrained thing I can't seem to remember to do most of the time. I'm getting a bit better at it, but still seem to forget most of the time,, unless I'm welding tubing, and wrap the welds around the corners.

Now....................as far as cold starts.......................
The only doggone way I know of to alleviate cold starts is to use a runoff (run-on) tab, or be lucky enough to have some material to start the weld on, before it actually hits the joint you're trying to weld.

You can see how I approached the problem in this series of welds. The weld extends about 1/2" beyond/before the joint
Corners are wrapped by backstepping into the previous weld. (that's a chipping hammer ding BTW, so sit back down in yer seats)

Not only are your welds very good IMO (I wish I could be that consistent), your picture quality is consistently soooo far above the norm, that alone makes your welds 20x better than "better" welds being presented with turd-like quality. I say keep up the damned good work.

[Welder Dave]

Do pictures add 20 lbs. to welds?

[ronsii]

I think that is the same brand of box we have on the kw is... It's from down south could be just a similar design though...

Trying to beat the snow and get this pad in.... Really bad clay here

Took a pic of the plate on our KW's box earlier... was built in 91' and all I've done to it has mainly been small repairs... no major cracks in the main structure... that I know of anyways

[VaughnT]

The only doggone way I know of to alleviate cold starts is to use a runoff (run-on) tab, or be lucky enough to have some material to start the weld on, before it actually hits the joint you're trying to weld. You can see how I approached the problem in this series of welds. The weld extends about 1/2" beyond/before the joint. Corners are wrapped by backstepping into the previous weld.

Glad I'm not the only one doing that!

[akpolaris]

Must have said something to Moto other than OOhh how nice

[N2 Welding]

I needed a tool to remove two cam gears. Whipped this thing up real quick down and dirty without concern for asthetics. Function over form in this case. Worked great.

[Joegreen02]

I needed a tool to remove two cam gears. Whipped this thing up real quick down and dirty without concern for asthetics. Function over form in this case. Worked great.

Well done!


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[N2 Welding]

Thank you Joe

[Lis2323]

I needed a tool to remove two cam gears. Whipped this thing up real quick down and dirty without concern for asthetics. Function over form in this case. Worked great.

AWESOME! I discovered a long time ago “function over form” wins the day every time.

I used to take my time to make specialized tools PRETTY only to find I either measured incorrectly or otherwise failed to anticipate “the obvious”.


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[N2 Welding]

AWESOME! I discovered a long time ago “function over form” wins the day every time.

I used to take my time to make specialized tools PRETTY only to find I either measured incorrectly or otherwise failed to anticipate “the obvious”.


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Originally I was going to fabricate that from scratch. Then while looking at my material stock on hand I decided to repurpose one of the several John Deere Garden tractor steering wheel pullers i fab'd up quite a while ago. I think i sold two or three of those on the tractor forums. The idea did not take off as much as i was hoping it would lol.

So anyway when I stumbled upon those old wheel pullers i got to thinking. Took one out to the car and put it in place. It needed to be trimmed a bit to fit inside the gear. End result, 30 mintes later the cam gears were off FTW.