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Thread: The new guy

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    The new guy

    Computer technician/handyman given the lincoln electric AC 225 and after i get the 220v electrical plug mounted in backyard, ill start playing with it maybe/learn a new skill to be able to help others

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    Re: The new guy

    Welcome. Ask all you want. Pics help. These guys on here really know their stuff. Good forum.


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    Re: The new guy

    Now I've never touched welding before.
    I have doodled with woodworking and i know the safety risks behind it.
    But can someone give me learning tips to begin. (I haven't bought no rods yet)

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    Re: The new guy

    Yep, go to a votech and take a welding course. Or maybe a local welder will help you. But I would go to classes too.


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    Re: The new guy

    Trying the self taught method, its for hobby. And to keep me busy.


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    Re: The new guy

    Nothing wrong with that. This might help.

    Lanse
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    Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    Good Afternoon Everyone!!

    These videos talk about the different types of Stick Electrodes, what they're commonly used for, what the best and worst traits of them are, and even what those numbers mean. This is my newest mini-series and I just thought I'd stop in and share it... Alright, lets get started...

    Here's part one, it covers 6010 & 6011, plus electrode designations and a few other tidbits:



    Part Two, welding with 6013 & 7014:



    Part Three, all about 7018:



    Annnnnd part Four, discussing... 7024:



    Well I guess that about sums it up. One of my first ever how-to's was the original "Understanding Stick Electrodes", but I wanted to remake it. Originally I was going to make this all one video, but split it so it wasnt so long...

    Anyway, I hope you guys like it. It was really fun to make, oh, and a big Thanks to KillDozer for sending those 7024's out lol. Enjoy it, and happy welding everyone

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    05-22-2013, 04:20 PM #2
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    Re: Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    Your welcome Lanse
    I did buy 50 lbs of 7024 in 1/8 and 50 lbs in 3/16 it is old school but still done for short run thick fills where it would take more time to break out the 12RC than do it with the 7024

    If the temperature of the weld is right the slag will curl up by itself

    It is called mud rod for a reason

    And thanks for the mention

    Backed my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me

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    05-22-2013, 05:34 PM #3
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    Re: Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    7024 wasn't that hard for me to find actually, my local hardware store ordered a 5lbs box for me. But I have never actually seen any on the shelves.

    Also, would you mind making a video on how ****ty 7018AC is. People deserve to know.

    Last edited by Vydunas; 05-22-2013 at 05:56 PM.

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    05-23-2013, 09:45 AM #4
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    Re: Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    Quote Originally Posted by Vydunas View Post
    7024 wasn't that hard for me to find actually, my local hardware store ordered a 5lbs box for me. But I have never actually seen any on the shelves.

    Also, would you mind making a video on how ****ty 7018AC is. People deserve to know.
    Yes, AC DEFINITELY SUCKS

    Name: ac1.JPG Views: 280 Size: 135.5 KB Name: ac2.JPG Views: 281 Size: 95.9 KB

    Name: ac3.JPG Views: 283 Size: 127.0 KB Name: ac4.JPG Views: 280 Size: 116.7 KB

    I'm afraid you know not of what you speak Granted, it's not very good for out of position welding, but it's perfectly acceptable for short repetitive welds where easy restrike is desired. I suppose it sucks if you don't know how to run it

    You get a smoother arc with DC though. There's no alternating current to muddle up the puddle ("muddle up the puddle" ). The smooth arc makes for somewhat better appearance, and absolute DELIGHTFUL out of position welding.

    Name: difference between ac and dc.JPG Views: 278 Size: 144.0 KB

    But never say something sucks until you've gone at it from all directions, and simply can't make it work because it's truly lousy. Touch up on your skills, then tackle it again.

    "Any day above ground is a good day"

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    05-23-2013, 01:45 PM #5
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    Re: Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    I suppose I could have gotten a bad batch, I'm fine with normal 7018 but 7018AC worked like **** for me.

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    05-23-2013, 10:48 PM #6
    Power of Blue
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    Re: Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    Hey great vids Lanse!

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    05-24-2013, 02:04 AM #7
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    Re: Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    Lanse, great video as usual! Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!

    As for AC..... I like it! (Yes, I have DC capability too). I'm one that doesn't mind AC stick welding. Then again, I'm not doing it professionally, nor am I welding bridges.

    I have some Excalibur 7018-1's and big-box Linconln 7018AC's. Yeah, the Excaliburs are nice and smooth (DC+), but I've been using the 7018AC's for a while on small projects, (AC) and I actually like them too. They're not that bad of an electrode for the hobbiest or occasional professional too.

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    05-24-2013, 04:42 AM #8
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    Re: Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    Quote Originally Posted by Vydunas View Post
    I suppose I could have gotten a bad batch, I'm fine with normal 7018 but 7018AC worked like **** for me.
    Vydunas, I'm with you.

    Certainly far from a pro and certainly less experienced than Samm, but I find them to suck A$$ as well. Cannot see the puddle for $hit. Just a ton of slag-but this is when I used it on DC. I had 1/8 Lincoln 7018AC mixed in the same container as 1/8 Lincoln excalibur and didn't realize it would make a difference. Then I was welding on a project and couldn't figure out why the hell I could see the puddle and slag perfectly at times, then at other times just the arc and a giant molten slag puddle. Finally figured out it was the AC rod.

    During complaining about this rod in the past, certain people have chimed in saying its designed to run on a higher OCV than the normal DC rod. That may be changing the perception people have of it on AC output vs DC on different machines than what I've used.

    I just hate it. Threw mine in the garbage.

    Also pretty sure Lanse feels the same.

    Last edited by Drf255; 05-24-2013 at 05:28 AM.

    Too many welders....

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    05-24-2013, 07:07 AM #9
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    Re: Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    Quote Originally Posted by Drf255 View Post
    Vydunas, I'm with you.

    Cannot see the puddle for $hit. Just a ton of slag-but this is when I used it on DC.
    You used an AC rod on DC. Did you ever try them on AC?

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    05-24-2013, 08:03 AM #10
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    Re: Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    It's supposed to be both AC and DC. That's why I stated that it may run better on AC and other machines than in my experience with it. Maybe it has to do with the voltage. It just sucked for me.

    Too many welders....

    "I don't know what weapons World War III will be fought with, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones."
    Einstein

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    05-24-2013, 10:01 AM #11
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    Re: Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    AC is all about amperage. You need to run at higher amps to run it successfully. 1/8 will run well at 135amps, 5/32 will run well at 175amps (careful attention must paid to travel speed....you need to run a bit faster to prevent porosity at this amperage)

    The puddle is harder to distinguish from the arc because the arc is very harsh. I've found that when welding in less than full sunlight it helps to turn your shade up to #11. You can use #10 in full sunlight.

    If you're having trouble with the slag intruding on your puddle you need to run with a steeper rod angle to force the slag to the back of the puddle. Noticeably steeper than you'd run a DC rod. This will change the ripple pattern on the finished bead, it's one of the ways to distinguish an AC weld from the equivalent DC weld.

    And it goes without saying, DON'T LOOK AT THE SLAG to determine if the weld is going ok. Focus on the puddle. Any swirling trash in the puddle, mentioned earlier in the thread, indicates your rod angle isn't steep enough...........slag inclusions.

    As far as OCV goes.......Most machines are pretty similar. AC rod is designed to run well on machines with lower OCV, but will run fine on higher OCV. I believe that OCV mainly affects starting the arc, not how it runs once the arc is established (don't quote me on this)

    http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...382-5/e696.pdf

    http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...382-5/e696.pdf

    I had only run AC until I got my AC/DC buzzbox, and the Ranger. For me the switch had the opposite results. I found myself turning up the amps in DC mode because I felt the arc was too soft

    One of the most common errors I see is people pointing the rod too high against the vertical plate. It happens with both polarities. Instead of depending on gravity to bring the metal down as you want it, it works better to gently weave between the upper and lower toes while maintaining the proper 45 degree angle facing into the root. The weave is approximately 3/4 the width of the bead, just enough to wet your toes adequately and provide adequate penetration in these areas.

    This even applies to horizontal welds to some extent. While you will probably point the rod higher into the joint, you still need to come down to tie the toe into the lower piece of plate. It's a quicker movement, but accomplishes the same thing.....puts some arc into the toe.

    Think of it...........You're pointing the force of the arc against ONLY ONE area of the weld, the upper end. The metal just drizzles down onto the lower plate. There isn't enough heat being applied to the lower end of the fillet. You want heat placed evenly throughout the entire weld if possible.

    That's my take on it anyhow

    Last edited by farmersamm; 05-24-2013 at 10:03 AM.

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    05-24-2013, 12:46 PM #12
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    Re: Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

    Quote Originally Posted by Drf255 View Post
    During complaining about this rod in the past, certain people have chimed in saying its designed to run on a higher OCV than the normal DC rod. That may be changing the perception people have of it on AC output vs DC on different machines than what I've used.
    7018AC is a rod designed to run on LOWER OCV machines such as the buzzbox AC only types sold at big box stores. It is 7018 with some additional arc stablilizers mixed into the flug coating. It is both a DC and an AC rod.

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    Re: The new guy

    Thanks


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    Re: The new guy

    Yepper, had to join all my research dealing with welding turned up this forum.
    I read countless topics and i like the fact that there are a few that don't sugar coat critiques.
    I have been doing photography for more then 15yrs and I self thought myself with the help of critiques from forums.
    So i know that as I progress with my welding and post photos you folks wont steer me wrong.


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