How much do the little 110 arc welders suck?

[mad welder 4]

Some times I just need to make a few small welds away from my work area.
My mig isn't real big but is attached to a cart with 3 gas cylinders, a tool box and power distribution system built in. The 235 amp craftsman stick is also a bit unruly and attached to a wheeled cart. They aren't easy to move. I intentionally made them difficult to steal by upping their shear size and weight, but it goes both ways.

I thought about saving my pennies to get a used miller inverter smaw/tig machine, but that's a lot more than I need and crack heads would be trying to grab it any time my back is turned. Plus if some one does make off with it a cheapie 110v buzz box is a lot easier to replace than a $700 to $1000 inverter.

Would a cheap 110v stick work half way decent on exhaust hanger and exhaust pipe? (normally I would use the mig this is more of a what if situation)
Would it work decent on welding something like 1/8'' angle iron to its self or a flat thicker base?
How about general repair stuff, lawn mowers, steel gate or steel fence? I have a feeling this is what they are targeted to.

The duty cycle can be 5% for all I care. I find my self needing to make a small weld or 2 some where for a person and my options are to drag the item back to my house or bring one of my heavy welders over there. If the item is a gate, fence or car port moving it is out of the question.

[BrooklynBravest]

I have a hobart autoarc 130 and I can do up to 3/16 but for full penetration it has to be welded on both sides or pre heated.

1/8 is no problem. It all depends what you need it for, I'm using it to learn on and I don't see myself going above 3/16 material any time soon. So for me it's great.

You can get hobart stuff refurbished direct from hobart for a great price with full warranty. I paid like $240 for my machine. It's cheap enough that it's worth a try, don't like it then sell it.

[Drf255]

I had a Thermalarc 95S that drown in Hurricane sandy.

It was my Goto welder for 95% of repairs because of what you listed above. Was so darn convenient to pull out and set up, and it ran 3/32 7018 and 1/8 6011 like a dream.

I bought a Dragster 85 which is on permanent loan to my brother. He loves it, I haven't struck an arc with it yet.

My 95S has been replaced with a 161S. I use it off a Genny in 110v for yard repairs, works great. I have a Maxstar 150S as well and I notice no real difference in the arc.

Look for a used TA 85 or 95 and you won't be disappointed by the little guy.

[puty72]

didnt use it yet on any repairs just ran some beads with it . hf 80 amp inverter 3/32 7014 on highest setting on 1/8 plate

[MinnesotaDave]

I've used the TA95 and also think it works great - excellent little tig.

Also like the Maxstar 150s - I got a used one this summer ($225) for small portable crap and it welds very nice on 120v or 240v.
The case it came with is a very nice feature.

[weldermike]

They will bail you out in a jam, and worth there weight in gold when you need them. I have a little maxstar that stays at home for my side projects that call for it, but I did have one at work in the late 90's made by Eutectic that made my life so much easier for oddball field repairs, but unfortunately it was being eyeballed by half the guys that new I had it in my tool locker. I came back from a few days off and the lock was missing and the machine was gone. Bastard really screwed me good. My boss paid a lot of money for it and it never got replaced and it was back to busting my hump for every little job.

[mla2ofus]

Whether it's stick, mig, wire feed or tig. Just remember not to bring a boy to do a man's job.
Mike

[dubl_t]

I feel the 80 amp inverters are a little lite, I've had 2 TA's and while they were great, they just lacked for what I needed.

I had a 130 Powcon that was old school dual voltage ( you had to manually pull the switch apart to make the change), really good machine; also owned an Invertec 130 that I liked also, but was just 220 input.

I'd say the TA 95 would be a minimum, and look online for one of the older higher amped inverters. I've only seen 2 Powcon 130's and at first I thought the seller was on crack (no pic on CL to verify), but that was a really nice machine that was affordable. And remember who REALLY wrote the book on inverter technology.

Regarding your exhaust ??'s, I used 6013 all the time either due to wind or tight clearances, and sometimes due to laziness

[docwelder]

my l-tec 110 mig has saved both my a$$ and my back on numerous occasions. i wouldn't use it to weld steam lines or for splicing "H" beams but it's very handy.

[strube1369]

Here's a little review. Sort of...

[rankrank1]

Another option that would cost you $zero. Is your mig 115v, 230 volt, or dual voltage?

If 115 volt or dual voltage then throw some E71-T11 flux core in there and you have a rather portable welding unit that also packs more punch than it does in mig mode with gas. Flux core has more penetration than mig mode and I prefer E71T-11 over E71T-GS as E71T-11 is suitable for multiple passes where E71T-GS is not suitable for multiple passes. I primarily keep E71T-11 flux core in my Lincoln Sp-135P 115 wire feeder as I like the portability of it that way plus I almost always weld outdoors anyway so flux core is handier for me that way and a little extra oomph does not usually hurt me either. Pretty easy to grab it by the handle to pick up and carry too when not on a cart or connected to a gas bottle. I do have a gas bottle but rarely use it.

Actually, I can pick up my 230 volt Miller Thunderbolt stick welder if I absolutely had too and I usally do move it outdoors when welding outside my barn (but rarely take it anywhere other than my place). My 115 volt wire feeder on the other hand has traveled frequently to friends, parents, etc.. It is very handy in that regard.

[docwelder]

my l-tec has dual voltage although i never did try it out and i am running innershield 211. i may look into the 220 if i can remember all the way to monday.

[Oldendum]

Buy 2 or 3 of those toaster welders and parallel the outputs. AMPS! If a bunch of piglets can suck a sow dry, then the same holds true here.

[mad welder 4]

Another option that would cost you $zero. Is your mig 115v, 230 volt, or dual voltage?

If 115 volt or dual voltage then throw some E71-T11 flux core in there and you have a rather portable welding unit that also packs more punch than it does in mig mode with gas. Flux core has more penetration than mig mode and I prefer E71T-11 over E71T-GS as E71T-11 is suitable for multiple passes where E71T-GS is not suitable for multiple passes. I primarily keep E71T-11 flux core in my Lincoln Sp-135P 115 wire feeder as I like the portability of it that way plus I almost always weld outdoors anyway so flux core is handier for me that way and a little extra oomph does not usually hurt me either. Pretty easy to grab it by the handle to pick up and carry too when not on a cart or connected to a gas bottle. I do have a gas bottle but rarely use it.

Actually, I can pick up my 230 volt Miller Thunderbolt stick welder if I absolutely had too and I usally do move it outdoors when welding outside my barn (but rarely take it anywhere other than my place). My 115 volt wire feeder on the other hand has traveled frequently to friends, parents, etc.. It is very handy in that regard.

I have almost the same mig welder as you, I have the Lincoln SP-135T main difference between the T and the P is I think yours might have the pulse feature.
So my mig is a 115 volt machine and because of the cart's built in power distribution rig, the welding cart can be plugged into a 230 volt power supply if I so choose.
The machine still uses 115vac one way or another.

I used to switch back and forth between solid and flux, that's why I picked up the 235amp craftsman arc welder, now I just leave the mig loaded with solid wire.
Also try running flux core with some gas coverage, its kind of neat. I find about 5 to 10 L/min of CO2 really cuts down on the spatter.

[mad welder 4]

Buy 2 or 3 of those toaster welders and parallel the outputs. AMPS! If a bunch of piglets can suck a sow dry, then the same holds true here.

I have my 235 amp craftsman stick machine I added DC to. So far I not have found an excuse to use more than 160 amps out of it.

"toaster welder" ?
I like it.

[mad welder 4]

I feel the 80 amp inverters are a little lite, I've had 2 TA's and while they were great, they just lacked for what I needed.

I had a 130 Powcon that was old school dual voltage ( you had to manually pull the switch apart to make the change), really good machine; also owned an Invertec 130 that I liked also, but was just 220 input.

I'd say the TA 95 would be a minimum, and look online for one of the older higher amped inverters. I've only seen 2 Powcon 130's and at first I thought the seller was on crack (no pic on CL to verify), but that was a really nice machine that was affordable. And remember who REALLY wrote the book on inverter technology.

Regarding your exhaust ??'s, I used 6013 all the time either due to wind or tight clearances, and sometimes due to laziness

I agree, I think the 70 and 80 amp toasters are too light.
A 150 to 160 amp dual power inverter would be nice, would do everything but are pricey and would essentially render my 235amp AC/DC craftsman stick obsolete (since I have yet to use it over 160 amps).
I think a 100 amp 110v toaster would do the most for the least $.
Of course I would modify it - add Miller receptacles, a 10ga high voltage power cord at the very least and maybe DC it (I have left overs from the craftsman DC project).

[rankrank1]

I have almost the same mig welder as you, I have the Lincoln SP-135T main difference between the T and the P is I think yours might have the pulse feature. So my mig is a 115 volt machine and because of the cart's built in power distribution rig, the welding cart can be plugged into a 230 volt power supply if I so choose.
The machine still uses 115vac one way or another.

No Pulse Feature on my SP-135P but it is getting to be at least 11 to 12 years old or so. Back at the time frame that I bought it the Lincoln models were different in that the "T" suffix stood for tapped settings on the voltage setting (in other words 5 or 6 clicks) and the "P" suffix stood for potentiometer which improved it to infinitely adjustable on the voltage setting (just like the wire speed is infinitely adjustable).

Of Course Lincoln charged more for that infinitely adjustable feature. It is nice but not really that big of a deal.

On today's models then you may be correct about the "P" meaning pulse....

[hill]

I just picked up a TA 95s for $150. and expect great portability things from it once I polish up my longlost stick techniques.

I've also got a Lincoln 100 amp 110v mig that uses flux wire only. It's much heavier than the TA but will get a small job done most anywhere, out in a light breeze.

I don't think either little one sucks - some tasks don't need a lot of power.

[Oldendum]

Got a Thermal Arc Dragster 85 like new for $50. with a bunch of electrodes. Flipped it for a TA 161STL. Yes, worlds apart, but the 160 class dual-voltage machines are nice for a portable machine.

[shortfuse]

ESAB Miniarc 161LTS inverter. The 161LTS is dual voltage, 110VAC or 230VAC. Comes in stick or stick/TIG versions. 110V max is 110A @ 35% duty cycle. 230V max is 160A @ 35% duty cycle. I got mine through Scott-Gross. Reasonable prices.

Great quality machine. Mine is the stick-only version. I have only 110VAC at my shop at this time and the little welder goes like a champ on 110V. I consistently burn 3/32" 7018, 6011 rods on 110V and it WILL run 6010's (lots of small and inverter welders won't run 6010...). I have used 1/8" Lincoln Excalibur 7018's and 1/8" 6011 rods on max 110 amp output with no problem. I upgraded my 110VAC welder circuit to 10 ga wiring and a 30A breaker. Have yet to trip the breaker.

[mad welder 4]

No Pulse Feature on my SP-135P but it is getting to be at least 11 to 12 years old or so. Back at the time frame that I bought it the Lincoln models were different in that the "T" suffix stood for tapped settings on the voltage setting (in other words 5 or 6 clicks) and the "P" suffix stood for potentiometer which improved it to infinitely adjustable on the voltage setting (just like the wire speed is infinitely adjustable).

Of Course Lincoln charged more for that infinitely adjustable feature. It is nice but not really that big of a deal.

On today's models then you may be correct about the "P" meaning pulse....

Yep mine is tapped, only 4 voltage settings. 5 or 6 would be nice. Wire speed is infinitely adjustable from uselessly slow to crazy fast for feeding aluminum.

[mad welder 4]

ESAB Miniarc 161LTS inverter. The 161LTS is dual voltage, 110VAC or 230VAC. Comes in stick or stick/TIG versions. 110V max is 110A @ 35% duty cycle. 230V max is 160A @ 35% duty cycle. I got mine through Scott-Gross. Reasonable prices.

Great quality machine. Mine is the stick-only version. I have only 110VAC at my shop at this time and the little welder goes like a champ on 110V. I consistently burn 3/32" 7018, 6011 rods on 110V and it WILL run 6010's (lots of small and inverter welders won't run 6010...). I have used 1/8" Lincoln Excalibur 7018's and 1/8" 6011 rods on max 110 amp output with no problem. I upgraded my 110VAC welder circuit to 10 ga wiring and a 30A breaker. Have yet to trip the breaker.

What kind of plug are you using on that 100+ amp 110v welder?

The 100a toaster am looking at has the NEMA 5-20 plug. You know the one that looks like a standard 3 prong except that the neutral prong is horizontal.
I have a feeling I might want to replace that with something else.
I have several L14-30 receptacles that aren't being used for anything, so I could buy a plug for the welder and be all set.

[shortfuse]

mad welder,

The ESAB 161LTS, 115V/230V inverter, comes with an adapter cord that's about 2 ft. long.

The main cord from the welder has a 230V male terminal, L6-20P if you want to run in 230V mode. The adapter cord to use with 115V has an L6-20C (female) terminal on one end that connects to the welder cord and a regular 115V NEMA 5-15 male terminal on the other end to plug into a 15A receptacle. As I mentioned, I use 10 ga. wiring, 30A breaker, and 20A wall receptacle. Both the welder main cord and adapter cord are three conductor 12GA AWG.

[mad welder 4]

Ok I got my 110v little arc toaster.

Found a like new older style craftsman 110v 100a machine. The black infinitely adjustable style craftsman. Apparently I have a soft spot for AC craftsman welders.
I think the infinitely adjustable part is thanks to a varrac, not by separating transformer cores and obviously not with transformer taps.

The welding leads are a joke, they are 10ga, I will be replacing the leads with miller receptacles so I can use my wide array of welding leads, everything from 9 foot 6ga cables to 35 foot 00gauge. Everything I have uses miller receptacles, even the plasma cutter and mig welder. I find using a stinger as a ground works perfect on metal the same thickness as a welding rod.

The plug for this machine is an actual nema 5-20 plug, like a standard 3 prong 5-15p but with a horizontal facing neutral prong. The input power cord is made with 12ga wire I think, I think I will install 10ga wires on a 5-20 plug or heavy made 5-15 plug, since the idea is to be able to use it any where.
I might install a L5-30 panel plug on the machine and make a few different xx-xxP to L5-30r adaptors for it because I have three L5-30r just collecting dust. I find the machines much easier to move when they have fewer cords.

The machine does not have a cooling fan, I will likely install something, at the very least put a hole where I can connect a bath room vent fan, just incase my ideal scenario where I only use it "to make 2 welds" goes out the window.

I tested it out on a piece of 2mm thick steel and burned through it not even using full power, so that is a good sign.

[AKweldshop]

Man those PowerArc 160 sth are good little welders, 110/220, tig/stick, and very reliable, it should work very good in your situation.....