Those arent even an equal comparison. The jet is 3 times the cost of the milwaukee. It probably weighs 3 times more too. I have a jancy. I love it. i havent used the other two. I can can take it were ever and it cuts fast. That thing is durable too, i forgot put up my tail gate one time and the saw fell out the back and rolled down a small hill. I actually think it works better now

 

In the 13 years I had my Kalamazoo cold saw i may have used it 40-50 times. On heavy solid shaft material.1 1/2 4140 etc.
Cold saws are for machine shops.Welders-fabbers don't need the accuracy and generally don't work with thicknesses that would require a cold saw purchase. I only had mine due to buying a divorce sale.

 

So it looks like the Milwaukee is no longer in production. Would I be better off trying to find one or is there another saw that is as good or better than the Milwaukee?

 

I've got a Morse dry cut saw. For now I'm just a hobbiest, welding for friends and family but I find myself using this all the time. Very good quality View attachment image.jpg .

 

I've got a Morse dry cut saw. For now I'm just a hobbiest, welding for friends and family but I find myself using this all the time. Very good quality View attachment 691421 .

Order the V-block jaw plates for that. Trust me.
The Morse and Jancy are the best two 14 inchers on the market today.

 

Is the Morse better than the Milwaukee? Is there a consensus on what dry cut saw is the best one? I have a budget of $1,000 so I want to get the best.

 

Here are a couple alternatives. I have one and it does great work. Good luck.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?escapeXml=false&ipp=24&storeId=6970&Ntt=dry+cut+saw

 

I owned several Milwaukee power tools. Good quality too. However I've never owned a Milwaukee dry cut. I'm anal about the quality of tools, and I'm happy with the Morse. The place I buy my steel uses one 8 hours a day cutting for customers. They say they used to use the Milwaukee but liked the Morse better. That's why I bought the Morse.

One other thing, make sure you get one with a good quality clamp that holds the metal solidly. The blades are very expensive and are not forgiving when the material moves. If it kicks backs you will most likely break teeth and wish your were standing in another room.

 

Hi Burpee, I've got the V-blocks and work great.

 

I have the Milwaukee dry saw, and a better dry saw is not to be had. I also have the DEWalt, which has a flimsy table.

 

Milwaukee is no longer around. If you can find one, grab it. They're great.

On the other hand I have a Morse with v-blocks and it's non stop awesome.

 

It is still on their line up http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6190-20 . All the suppliers still seem to have them in stock as well.

 

Check out the Makita dry cut saw. So far its been a great saw for me.

 

I stole one yesterday and used it a few times this morning. Nothing is opened today so I have to wait until Monday to make V blocks for it.
Hey. It's a Makita. Nothing else left to say. Makita has never been a flashy tool. They're simple, somewhat plain-ish, heavy duty,acurate and flat out last.
It must be an M thang ? 'Well. Unless we're talking post 1990 welders :laugh: :angel:

 

Have you considers an Evolution dry saw? I've had one for about two years and love the thing. I haven't found anything it can't cut yet. I was recently cutting 4" solid steel rod plugs to chuck into my lathe for turning. Highly recommend View attachment ImageUploadedByTapatalk1397933919.373418.jpg


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I was recently cutting 4" solid steel rod plugs to chuck into my lathe for turning.

Care to share your secret for doing that? I've had enough material through my saw that I KNOW I'd burn up a blade attempting cuts on 4" solid stock like you're describing. What blade are you using? Have you adapted coolant to it? How many cuts have you made so far on a single blade?

 

Could I get a picture of the v blocks?

 

Like these.I'm not going to screw them on the Makita. I'm making them from 5/8 alum, milling the V grooves and milling a round depression in the back for a 3/4 diameter magnet that will get epoxied in place.Stick'em on and go !
View attachment vblocks-tubing.jpg

 

4 inch solid ? Maybe with a mist system and rotating it 3-4 times. I cut a couple axles on the Morse. 1.187. It knew it had it's hands full. I cut like halfway and dumped....ummm "coolant' on it.
I won't waste enough beer for 4 ". I have a red P.O.S. to deal with that.

 

The Evolution Rage saw I use came with an aluminum/steel blade. The Evolution saws don't use coolant. Check them out on YouTube. I've had the sad about two years and haven't changed the blade yet, probably 500-750 cuts at this point.

When I make plugs for my lathe I simply lay the rod in the saw and take my time. The trick to the Evolution blades is to let the blade do the work and don't press down. I don't have to rotate the 4" rod at all, it will cut straight through if you give it time.


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FWIW, I bought one evolution saw, and will never buy another one of their products again. Nuts and bolts conctantly coming loose, chip guard filled with chips, and failed to function. Plastic adjuster mechanism. Total piece of junk!

 

I too have heard the Evolution lacks Everlastness and Longevity. Many marketers are hiding in the brush and Harboring Fright. Just be careful when and where you take your wallet out and all will be well.

 

I've had mine about 2 years now and have never had a problem. The thing is rock solid and well built. I wonder if maybe they changed manufacturers?


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