Blacksmithing tools

[Shootr]

Today was certainly humbling...


I wanted to try the bolt tongs, but size them to hold rr spikes (I now know Ken's has those awesome ones but I neglected to look around the site before ordering my set).

I started the forge an hour ahead of time on "low", then 30 minutes on high. This worked really well and doing the reins went much better. Then the wheels came off...

I tried the chisel method to split the jaws but between the splits pulling to one side on each piece, and pushing the curves in all kinds of wrong ways - it became a tail chasing mess.

Better to leave it be and come back another day to try and salvage it. I can think of several things to do differently off the top of my head, but that's learning - setbacks are inevitable.

[VaughnT]

That vendor is in India so shipping might get expensive.

That's the only reason I haven't pulled the trigger on them. I can't believe he's simply turning them on a lathe. More likely, they are some kind of mass-produced thing that just happens to make a decent cone anvil when you weld a stem on the bottom. The one looks a lot like a speed selector from some small line shaft belt-drive machine, but I've never seen one that had more than 3 circumferences to change speeds.

I've been keeping my eyes open for something similar, but haven't found anything even remotely close.

Today was certainly humbling... Then the wheels came off... ...it became a tail chasing mess. ...setbacks are inevitable.

Okay, that made me laugh out loud! I'm laughing with you, not at you, but I'm still laughing! Oh, how many times have I been in that position!?!?!

Now you know why I buy my tongs rather than make them. Aggravating at the best of times.

Speaking of tongs.....

Thomas Ironworks just let me know that my new scrolling pliers are done. His are on the right, mine on the left. Took over a year to finally get him moving on the project, but like he says... "I'm slow."

Do I need them? Nope. Did I want a pair when he first debuted them on FB? Yep. The chances of me hammering out a pair of similar quality? Slim.




I watch all of his videos when I can, and seeing these beauties.... well, they are far nicer than the mass-produced ones I bought from Blacksmith Depot and will serve as an example of how to do it right. And if the longer reins get my hand away from the scorching steel... I'm okay with that!

[shortfuse]

Well that was fun - mostly educational - but definitely enjoyable!

Started by trying to draw out the reins. I got them round-ish, but only lengthened an inch or so. Pretty sure it was another case of not getting the heat all the way through the steel (and using channel-locks to try and hold them while hammering).

Cleaned all the scale off of it and hit it with a flapper to take any remaining rough edges off. I sized them to securely hold the other tong blanks so it'll be easier next time.

So, lessons learned and things to work on:

*Waiting even longer when first starting to get the heat into the steel
*Pay more attention to the joints - these one's - the handles are a hair off-line from the reins.
*After cleaning them up, the rivet feels a little loose - I imagine that is just a matter of re-heating and giving it a whack.

I think I'll try another pair tomorrow.

Shootr, well done on drawing out and rounding your reins! Those will be much more comfortable. You may not need to heat your boss and rivet to tighten it. I usually just give mine a whack or two cold on the anvil with a light hammer until they tighten up to your liking. That way you don't over tighten them.

[whtbaron]

If that curved part is auger flighting, it's a lot thicker than most I've seen. Good score.

[VaughnT]

I've decide to build a form and use poor in insulation and a 3/4" burner which I can buy from Zoeller. The wool seems to dangerous for me to use and maintain when there are alternatives, so I going to use poor insulation, I feel better with the grandkid being in the shop too.

The final chamber size is going to be 6 X 6 X 12 which should work with a 3/4 burner.

6X6X12" + 432 sq in chamber.

I keep y'all posted. it's going to be at least another month before the weather allows me to work in my unheated shop. Be sure to tell me what you guys think, now is the time to make correction to my flying by the seat of my pants plans.

While you're at the Zoeller site, make sure to pick up some of that sweet Plistix 900 to paint the chamber when you're done pouring it. I don't know how it works, but it sure does help with getting higher temps!

Your first forge is always a learning experience so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Sounds like you've got a solid idea in mind and aren't shooting for something crazy. Now it's just a matter of getting some metal bent and refractory poured.

Honestly, if I had to it to do over again, I'd likely have gone with a poured insulation and saved myself a ton of hassle. When my new forge bites the dust, at least it'll be easy to dismantle and pour in some refractory!!!

[whtbaron]

Here's a coal forge I built but never finished.. Do to not being able to find coke around here I lost interest in finishing the hood and chimney and cutting out the sides.


https://app.photobucket.com/u/cyberj...4-c10db8da6bd9

Nice work! Most recommendations I've seen are to start with a brake rotor rather than a drum for a shallower fire pot, but that's looking really good.

[VaughnT]

Here's a coal forge I built but never finished.. Do to not being able to find coke around here I lost interest in finishing the hood and chimney and cutting out the sides.

Looks fantastic! Not being able to find coke shouldn't stop you from finishing it. You can always burn regular coal or charcoal in it... or just finish it and take pride in a job well done. Sooner or later, someone will come around with cash in hand, desperate to have it for themselves!

[whtbaron]

I've heard of guys using TSC pea coal or barbeque brickettes in a pinch... definitely not ideal, but better than wood chips. That one would definitely have some resale value completed.

[VaughnT]

I have thought of installing the burner at a compound angle, not the traditional 90 degree to the body of the forge, thinking a glancing flame would provide more surface flame and a more even heat inside the forge, does anyone think my idea foolhardy and counter productive?

If you're starting out with a piece of pipe, it might be easier to split it down the middle and weld in some flat stock to increase the width. That way you get the chamber dimensions you need without having to wait on someone to do bending and such for you.



A wider chamber is always good fun because it means you can do things like trivets and scrolls. The dishes I make aren't very large, yet they start life around 6" and wouldn't fit in your forge without some finagling.

As for the compound angle on the burner.... don't know that I've ever seen that done before. My biggest worry, and it might just be all in my head, is that it would shoot the fuel/air mix right out the end of the forge before it's had much time in the forge. I could be wrong on that, though, so take it for what it's worth.

[whtbaron]

Hmmmm..... just guessing here, but I would think the lateral vortex would be more important. Namely, I would think you would direct it sideways at a sharper angle to get it to "swirl" around the sides of the forge. If Vaughn is correct, maybe a slight tip to the back might keep the heat swirling in the forge longer, rather than out the door? I don't think you would want a lot of angle... if you've ever created a vortex in a funnel with a water hose, you know it doesn't take much to make it directional. I've always wondered why we don't shoot it in the bottom (heat rises) but Vaughn tells me that the flame tends to engulf the interior anyway.

[VaughnT]

I have seen some forges with the flame coming in from the bottom. I don't think it ever got popular simply because you're always dealing with junk falling down into the orifice, especially if you've got everything coated with flux and whatnot.

The idea behind the ribbon burner was to spread out the flame so you didn't have one hard jet impacting on your work and the forge floor. It's easy to flip that upside down, but then you have the smaller jet orifices being clogged with scale and slag pretty easily.

Not long ago, I saw a ribbon burner forge that came in straight from the side, but was up towards the top of the chamber. This allowed the jets to not impact the work at all unless you had something tall enough to get up to the top where the flame was. Seemed like a reasonable compromise for a short chamber height.

[Shootr]

Well my friend who owns a weld shop is going to bend the lower half of the forge body pictured for me in whatever gauge steel the augar tube turns out to be. I told him I want to make two mail boxes out of design also, but they will be 20" long instead of 12" long. So he's going to bend the steel for those too when he can work me in.

I've decide to build a form and use poor in insulation and a 3/4" burner which I can buy from Zoeller. The wool seems to dangerous for me to use and maintain when there are alternatives, so I going to use poor insulation, I feel better with the grandkid being in the shop too.

The final chamber size is going to be 6 X 6 X 12 which should work with a 3/4 burner.

6X6X12" + 432 sq in chamber.

I keep y'all posted. it's going to be at least another month before the weather allows me to work in my unheated shop. Be sure to tell me what you guys think, now is the time to make correction to my flying by the seat of my pants plans.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBs0y9ZlmA0&ab_channel=ChristCenteredIronw orks

Oh man, I have a 26" long x 14" trough for a screw conveyor (order screw up - not mine!) at the shop. It's useless - I wonder if I can talk them out of it...

[VaughnT]

They say you learn something new every day.... and some days I actually do. Never heard of anyone operating a venturi-style ribbon burner, and I really have to wonder about their efficiency. Still nice to know it's a possibility!

Truly, though, I have to give Bonifab kudos for going a step above and beyond with his ribbon burner design. I've always wondered why people don't make them tapered, but figured that they must know something I don't. Straight sides are very silly when you think about the gap it leaves and all that heat escaping or causing other problems. The tapered sides lock everything together even when the cement expands a little, while also making it unnecessary to design in some kind of bolts or latches to stop the burner from simply falling in to the chamber.

Unicast-70 cement from a company called Smelko.



Finding this video came at a rather opportune moment in this thread because you can see Bonifab using a PSA Custom cone mandrel, too.

[jwmelvin]

I use a venturi ribbon burner of my own design. It works well.

[psacustomcreations]

That looks impressive

[N2 Welding]

They say you learn something new every day.... and some days I actually do. Never heard of anyone operating a venturi-style ribbon burner, and I really have to wonder about their efficiency. Still nice to know it's a possibility!

Truly, though, I have to give Bonifab kudos for going a step above and beyond with his ribbon burner design. I've always wondered why people don't make them tapered, but figured that they must know something I don't. Straight sides are very silly when you think about the gap it leaves and all that heat escaping or causing other problems. The tapered sides lock everything together even when the cement expands a little, while also making it unnecessary to design in some kind of bolts or latches to stop the burner from simply falling in to the chamber.

Unicast-70 cement from a company called Smelko.



Finding this video came at a rather opportune moment in this thread because you can see Bonifab using a PSA Custom cone mandrel, too.

would a BBQ pit regulator work good for a design like this?

[whtbaron]

I use a venturi ribbon burner of my own design. It works well.

Got my interest.... more details on the construction/operation? How is it on fuel consumption?

[VaughnT]

I would think so. It's not like you're running a high PSI. I think my regulator goes up to 60, but I've never actually cranked it above 12.

If I'd have known that Bonifab offers a kit, I might have just gone that route! Quick and simple, though a little larger than I'd like. It would have made a very fun project, though, and given me an excuse to do more welding.

[jwmelvin]

Got my interest.... more details on the construction/operation? How is it on fuel consumption?

I 3D printed a mold and poured refractory to make the nozzle, then burned out the plastic. It worked really well and was my first try at that approach. It’s a nominal 3/4” size burner using a MIG tip jet. It does use a good bit of fuel, but I don’t have a reference. It’s 8”x2.5” so a pretty large area for the flame. I run at about 5-10psi for forging. I have very little experience and haven’t tried forge welding.

I made the sheet metal plenum to let the flow from the mixing tube expand gently. All that seems to work pretty well. I may make a smaller version next. Thanks for the positive comments.

[psacustomcreations]

I stopped by my local Overhead Garage Door office and asked if theyhad any broken, cut, damaged door springs.
The guy let me climb in his dumpster and grab these. When I tried to pay, he wouldn't let me.
There are three sizes here. I really wanted some of the 4 inch springs but he didn't have any. The steel can be used for a variety of small tools.
You can use some sizes as quick hammer holder rings.
The rings are also a quick and simple way to make large chains, chain mail, rain chains, etc. Plus I also like to use them in some of my other projects.

I walked with my wallet out, explained I am teaching myself blacksmithing, and am not a meth head looking for scrap to sell.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[Lis2323]

Those garage door springs look so cute and innocent when they’re not wound up on their torsion bars!

BTW, Pat you would be welcome in my shop.... open wallet or not


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[VaughnT]

Funny that you mention curtain rings. I literally just got an email from someone asking about curtain rings after I read your post!

Of course, I don't have a single coil spring that'd work, and she's wanting "mass-produced in china" prices, so I don't think I have to worry about them.

[psacustomcreations]

I stopped by another door shop at lunch.
There are some 4 inch and 6 to 7 inch diameter springs that might be available. Their tech is going to change the old ones out and they will contact me when they have the old ones. Those large diameter 6 to 7 inch springs are probably 3/8" thick.
The second place had another small size spring. So that makes four sizes now. She would not accept money either. I gave her my business card as well.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[ronsii]

I stopped by another door shop at lunch.
There are some 4 inch and 6 to 7 inch diameter springs that might be available. Their tech is going to change the old ones out and they will contact me when they have the old ones. Those large diameter 6 to 7 inch springs are probably 3/8" thick.
The second place had another small size spring. So that makes four sizes now. She would not accept money either. I gave her my business card as well.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Wow!!! sounds like doors are opening all over the place for you

[Lis2323]

Wow!!! sounds like doors are opening all over the place for you

Spring is right around the corner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk